Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Hi, My old cav reached the end of the road some months back - terminal rust around offside inner wing/ bulkhead and steering rack mounts. I'm not going to get round to fixing it so it will have to go. I'm in the medway area, If another forum member wants it (or bits off it )then you can have them fo...

You do realise that the v-belt used on these engines should actually be wider than normal. I had the same problem for ages before I realised. If you buy a normal belt as per specification it will turn out to be too long! The heavy duty belt is needed because it also has to drive the vacuum pump on t...

Yep

on 1.7td's the vacuum for he servo comes from a pump fixed to the rear of the alternator rotor. No alternator belt - no servo and a very hard and unresponsive brake pedal

Some success! I did the now normal test drive from cold and the brakes were really good. I thought the problem had gone away until I realised I'd not yet got the ABS to operate, even though the braking had been very heavy-footed. So, up to 40, on with the anchors, on came the ABS, the car veered to...

I seem to recall that most brush repairs on the cavalier require the braided wires to be desoldered and re-soldered. In my experience as mentioned above - Points of weakness in order are: - 1 - Switch - the brass fingers inside get dirty and become intermittent. 2 - The Thermal fuse burns out, espe...

I'd be looking at the switch personally. Your issues seem to stem from "fiddling" with the switch. It could be as simple as cleaning it. Well, the blower fixed itself for 10 months. It then stopped completely - this proved to be at least in part the thermal fuse. This was duly replaced an...

Cheers guys. A bit tricky but got there in the end.

Thanks

Jim

The most common issue with these is that the y shape jaws of the self adjuster spread, allowing the little pressed plate with the spring slip of the ratchet, which then jams up and can lead to the brake sticking. Second is the handbrake cable sticking in the part where it turns they corner at the f...

For reference should anyone else be interested there's some good pics of both types of flare here http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm and http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf so basically bubble=din, cone=sae, fully threaded fitting must be sae, with shoulder could be either s...

I didn't either, but although the pipe size is effectively identical, it appears that there is a genuine difference in flare shape and fittings.

Cheers guys. So to confirm it's definitely the SAE 3/16 Flaring tool I need rather than the 4.75 DIN? Also, although I think I'll probably get the kit as I'm bound to need it again for my old mr2 before long, I found a place that seems to make up pipes for very reasonable money. http://www.brakepipe...

Well my old 94 1.7TD passed it's MOT with a couple of advisories. One of these was corroded a offside front brakepipe. Now I'd been thinking of getting some kit to make up pipes for a while. One of the thing that is confusing to me is the sizing/flare types. Presumably what I want 3/16 pipe which is...

I'd be looking at the switch personally. Your issues seem to stem from "fiddling" with the switch. It could be as simple as cleaning it. Well, the blower fixed itself for 10 months. It then stopped completely - this proved to be at least in part the thermal fuse. This was duly replaced an...

mine did exactly the same on the way down to plymouth after I touched an angled kurb to get out the way of a copper. managed to get me home though but it was a nightmare to drive and it was all down to the outer cv joint for the sake of £40 you can get a complete cv kit with boot clips and grease a...

Cheers guys I'll be back once I've had a chance to crawl under and take a look. I always associated outer joint failure with knocking on full lock? Anyway if there ins't an obvious offender, am I correct in thinking that torque steer to left would suggest a problem with the left hand shaft? Many Th...

Cheers guys I'll be back once I've had a chance to crawl under and take a look. I always associated outer joint failure with knocking on full lock? Anyway if there ins't an obvious offender, am I correct in thinking that torque steer to left would suggest a problem with the left hand shaft? Many Tha...

Hi, Returning from wales today in torrential rain started to get quite bad vibration through steering wheel. At first thought it might be a puncture and stopped, found nothing . Carried on a problem dissappeared for about a hour of motorway driving then occurred again and has now gone again. Under t...

Heater blower has developed an intermittent problem. Sometime works fine, sometimes nothing. Switch is a little dodgy (when it's working you can get the fan to cut out by fiddling with the switch , but not to the extent that it gives nothing in all positions). I therefore think that there is another...

From memory, they have holes in the top of the casing, so should be easy to identify. Well, just to update. Buzzer relay was fine. Problems is that the connection to the door switch has broken somewhere on it's somewhat circuitous route via the passenger side?. Fixed by splicing in a wire to the do...

I know on my Cavaliers, it's just above the main fusebox, in the dashboard. Can't remember which one it is, but if the buzzer works, you can put your finger on it and feel it vibrating a bit. Yours doesn't obviously, but thats one way of telling, maybe if you know someone locally with a Cavalier, y...

Hi, I have a 1994 cavalier 1.7TD. As far as I can tell from the wiring diagram the warning buzzer is combined with a relay. My buzzer has stopped working. It's not the door switch so I'm guessing the relay. Now my question is a) where is this buzzer/relay and b) how do I identify it when I see it - ...