Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Damn! New relay didn't work :( So I guess it's a wiring fault - not good! Just a thought; is there any chance that the fuel pump itself may be faulty, or the wiring at the fuel pump end - could that possibly cause a flickering EM light? Any ideas? PS - I did manage to flash the code as Code 32 - Fue...

A new relay is on it's way to me - cleaning the connectors etc didn't solve the problem after all, despite early promise

Really hope the new relay sorts it out - I hate messing about with wiring!

Cleaned the contacts on the relay and fitted it. The EM light was mostly steady; still flickering a little bit, but if I put pressure on the wires to the relay's connector plug the light is steady and the car doesn't seem to show any signs of wanting to cut out. I'll clean the contacts on the plug c...

Could be a loose wire somewhere or bad earth. Also check the fuel pump relay hasnt got wet as i had this problem and it turned out to be that. Thanks Dan. The fuel pump relay does get a bit damp - I tried a spare fuel pump relay I had knocking about but no difference :( but that was from a car with...

The old Cavalier is normally so reliable but now has a problem with the engine randomly cutting out and having trouble starting (intermittently). I've tried flashing the codes using the paperclip test, but the EM light sometimes flashes as normal but often flickers which makes it very difficult to r...

gsi pie wrote:spray wd40 down the ICV pipe

its the one thats comes from under the SFI box

i did this on mine and it sorted it (my icv was sticky revs use to hold now n again)

just an idea dude

I'll give it a go!

Would you do that with the engine running?

Well, the intake hose is AOK from filter through to SFI box - shame really; was sort of hoping for an obvious fault...

Will try spraying WD40 round the intake manifold tomorrow.

knock sensor usually registers a code, have you looked at the intake pipe from throttle body to mass meter? Had a quick look a couple of days ago - will have a proper look today. It's not idling right either. Thinking maybe the intake manifold is either leaking or gummed-up. Does the ICV have any e...

My engine doesn't seem to be running right - it's OK if you gradually apply the throttle, but seems restricted if I put my foot down too quickly. There is a noticeable difference in power above 3500rpm, but anything below that it bogs down really easily. Hope that makes sense! I read somewhere that ...

So what happens when im remove my ABS? Is that when i have a T piece? Instead of the 2 lines going to ABS, im guessing its 1 wire to the front with a T piece deviding the right & left, and a single line to the rear with another T piece deviding the left & right again? Why not just use a non...

soton wrote:You're lucky they are testing at 3.5 max... mine was tested with 0.3 max..

Mine too. MOT guys said that the 3.5 limit was for cars without a cat (pre late '92)...

Much easier if you remove the bonnet - then you can see the bolts and have room to remove/replace parts.

Scissor type I've got had to have about 2/3 of the thickness ground off to fit in the gap - pretty sure that was on full lock, for ease of access more than anything. I guess it depends on the design, the ones I have are donkeys years old....I think my Dad gave them to me, they are really tough and ...

try scissor type on full lock Scissor type I've got had to have about 2/3 of the thickness ground off to fit in the gap - pretty sure that was on full lock, for ease of access more than anything. Will try a well greased fork type - got to change front shocks soon. When I get time, I'll get the mig ...

D&C RACING wrote:No must of been something else mate we have been out of silver paint for along time. What town you from !

Was a long time ago - mistyped date; should have read 2001/02 !!

I'm in Coulsdon - well, Hooley actually seeing as there's a chance you might actually know where that is

Tired of split ball joint boots from using fork type separator tools :wall There's not enough room between the threaded end of the ball joint and the CV joint to get a scissor type tool in there without grinding it down - tried that but had to grind loads off, so wasn't surprised that it only last a...

All dates are now on our new website. We will add new dates for runs and shows as an when they arise http://www.dncracing.co.uk Sure I remember this at 2011/02 PVS at Santa Pod in Silver paint? Awesome car :thumb Had trouble with first - second gear transition when I saw it iirc. You're really loca...

For me, the Cav does everything I want it to do, has enough power to have a bit of fun and it's easy/cheap to fix when things go wrong. I've taken it apart a few times so know it back-to-front. It would take a major change in personal circumstances to swap for anything more modern as (from experienc...

Doh!

Just realized the codes flash without the ignition on - only started looking at the LED when I turned the ignition on and it flashed 9.

So the code is 29.

What should I be looking at to resolve the issue with the sensor?

Here is the alarm system info and diagnostics Fault codes can be read out of the Alarm by shorting pins A and H in the diagnostic socket. (Under the bonnet next to the Octane Plug). The code is flashed out on the ultrasonic led in the panel at the top of one of the B Pillars. The Ultrasonic button ...

humbucker wrote:Outside the chippy. Wait til you see what was next to it... (once I can find the pic!)

I guess you don't mean the lovely green Agila !

Fan symptoms usually down to a blown resistor (attached to the blower motor underneath the scuttle). If the resistor's blown, the cause is often a worn blower motor - try turning it by hand; the fan should turn smoothly and easily. You could replace the resistor which will make the fan work normally...

Just passed

Failed fast idle test first time, but second time registered 0.124 CO with everything else well within limits.

Resorted to 'softening' the wire gasket with a hammer (lightly and just on the bevelled part) and sealed joint OK after that

Why not just remove the rear bumper as a whole and replace it with an SRi bumper - they're the same as every other facelift cav rear bumper apart from the red stripe. Either that or you'll have to remove the bumper skin (the colour coded part) from the bumper structure and replace that with the skin...

planetc wrote:Using the engine number, ask Vauxhall motors to confirm year of production/first use?

Just sent an email to Vauxhall Customer Assistance. Wonder if they'll reply...