Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

You need to replace the rod, I did it on my old cav after replaceing every other bit of the linkage it was still rubbish and then figured out that this bit was completely worn: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/Novadose16/090920091583.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v687/Novadose16/120920...

Use a Vectra one:

Looking good and getting there now. As for tightening the bearings theres no need for the car to be on the ground, just get a large screwdriver and stick it in the vents in the disc and that stops the disc/hub turning so you can do the hub nut to the correct torque. Ive been doing it this way for ye...

Something like that would work just leave out the diff mount:

After all that work! Suppose you can still use the new mounting points you made. You could easily make a very simple rear subframe.

btcctroy wrote:its an illusion that dan. The driver side is lower and the wheelarch is more flared as its a replacement panel.
if you measure of the body its equal

Ahh ok, the wheels look good on it.

Oh dear that does look a mess. As said already most of the 5k was probably for the paintjob, assuming that's any good? Its allot of money and I would be absolutely gutted to see it rusting away like that already, its definitely not had a proper job done, I doubt they have even cut the rust out under...

Looking good, it looks like the left side is sticking out abit more than the right side?

That looks really nice, great buy!

The top spec ones like the v6 and turbo's had allot of extra sound deadening. You will find the center console will be coated in foam underneath too which other models don't have.

Great work

You are a strange one, you complain that your spoiler is falling off, I tell you the best stuff to use for not allot of money and yet you still want to use some gasket sealer to hold a spoiler on?

Good luck with that then.

Is it only me that was thinking stick a battery on it, crank it over a few times and start it up.

4 stud and 5 stud bearings are differant

Im sure there was a diplomat breaking on ebay recently that should have all the toys.

A massive wiring job to do properly with not allot of gain. Easier to just fit a higher spec cav loom.

Its not quite major surgery, Just lift it up abit, squirt some sealer in there and tape it down job done.

Or if you think the whole thing is going to come off eventually then take it all off and put sealer around it all and put it back on, it wont come off again.

It will seal it from the weather and it will be glued down properly.

Buy this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INDASA-PU-BON ... Swu4BVvMtX

And glue it down with that, hold it with abit of masking tape over night and it will never come off again. Seal up the end of the tube and you can use it again and again to stick anything down.

Yes just a decent touch up pen would do the job. I would go to your local trade paint shop and ask for a touch up pot in your coulor, it will be a much better match than Halfords. Also don't use anything to big to touch it up, an unfolded paper clip works well or roll up a piece of masking tape into...

Definitely the cd70 with coulor screen although does need some work to make it all fit nice. If it were me I would either do it 2 ways but both involve ditching the original trip computer as I don't think you need that anymore. One way is to remove trip computer and re arrange the display over abit,...

Ive got this one and another one with the turbo in to.

It will be a MK5 Astra With the 1.9 cdti engine using the M32 6 speed gearbox.

These a prone to breaking which is why his has gone. They wont fit a cav without a hell of allot of work as they use completely different mounts and the general setup is different to a cav.

Full tower build for me all the way

The F23 does bolt to the c20let using the let clutch.

But it wont bolt in the cav, all the mounts are totally different so will need new mounts making and also mounts for the cables.