Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Shouldn't set you back more than £60-£70 if you look around.

Peanut_119 wrote: my cav off the road at the moment as it went in for its mot and fail. needs 2 wishbones on the front but for a car thats done 143k miles i cant complain at all

Welcome buddy. Cavs are so easy to fix.

I am sort of sorry to see mine going next week, but hey thems the breaks.

Enjoy your stay.

Envoy CDX wrote:

RatCav wrote:A few things I did

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=2211

... and here is where to get the stuff

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=3513

Nothing like a shameless plug

Yup ... not at all ashamed

A few things I did

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=2211

... and here is where to get the stuff

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=3513

I did pretty much what squig did for my V6. Control box from the engine bay, Indicator stalk, brake switch (from an Astra Mk.3), Cruise control cable, and throttle mount. The only thing I did that was different was using the throttle mount and the cruise control throttle cable from a Vectra B. I man...

I am getting about 500 miles out of my V6 Cavalier. Averaging about 35 mpg.

Well done matey. Any advisories, if so you have 12 months to get on to them before next year.

try Dave Yarman. He is on the border of Norfolk/Suffolk. Has a few Cavs in his yard.

Gaz wrote:What engine is it?

1995 Vauxhall Cavalier mk3 LS 2.0i 16v Automatic
1998 Vauxhall Astra mk4 CD 1.6i 16v

>>>> From his sig, So either way I would suggest Ecotec engines.

If you get a multimeter onto the plug and get someone to open and shut the doors you will soon know if you have the right one. Its usually behind the cut out bit of interior lining the boot light is mounted on. From what I gather the six terminals are : 1) Constant live Left/Right 2) Switchable live...

The plug for the handles is next to the aerial and boot light. Its a black plastic one about 10mm square with 6 pins in. Use that. Its what its designed for.

I am off to the scrappy later this week. I will get some pictures of where it goes for you. Saves having to pull my car apart again.

"THIS CAR WAS BUILT FOR ROAD USE NOT TRACK USE AND IS STILL A HEAD TURNER" Not effin surprising. Looks like the dulux dog threw up over it. I'd have to take a DA sander to it on their drive before I drove it home.... PMSL :D :D :D I would take a load of industrial strength paint stripper ...

Wouldn't be surprised if they were the originals. Couldn't see a part number ... everything was either too rusty or too worn

Prevention is better than cure I find with brakes. Hence why I am replacing the entire system. If I do it myself it shouldn't cost much. I am also going to use copper/nickel lines as I have been told they are more reliable and last a heck of a lot longer.

I have a simlar thing with my Cav V6. A large gap under the top mount rubber. I assume this would led to flex in the strut and therefore wayward travel. I also assume you just take the top nut off, slde off the top mount and then put this on replacing the top mount and nut.

Sorry for the hi-jack.

Wotcha buddy. Welcome aboard. Surprised you weren't here before. You still after that spoiler and DID? I have the floor loom as well if you want it that goes to the switch loom.

Was looking at the MOT advisory note and it mentioned three of the brake lines needed looking at. One of which was the Drivers front flexi. I bit the bullet and decided I should get over my fear of brakes and went to replace it. On closer inspection it was shot. and coming very close to bursting at ...

Ok had some time on my hands so I went about tarting up the insides a little. Fisrt off was replacing the handbrake and gearstick gators. I got hold of some nice material from the local fabric shop and went about making my own. Took off the old ones and copied them. Ended up with this: http://i85.ph...

Well as some of you might be aware the Cav failed its MOT. A series of issues but noothing to hard to rectify. Headlamp aim was too low on each light so that was tweaked. I have to remove the bodged de-cat pipe and replace with a Cat as the emissions were way way too high. It was reading O2 levels o...

Ok sorry for the delay in getting back cavalier342. But I have some photo's for you. The first is the connector block. The Switch for the standard Fuel Computer plugs into position '3'. It connects on the rear most side (furthest from the gearstick). The wires (which I have missing) then go accross ...

Everyone keeps saying Gates so I think I will stick with them.

"THIS CAR WAS BUILT FOR ROAD USE NOT TRACK USE AND IS STILL A HEAD TURNER"


Not effin surprising. Looks like the dulux dog threw up over it.

That gives me fond memories of my old 'L' plate white SRi. She was a cracking car until she gave out to old age. Nice car buddy.

Lol ... I keep thinking I will spend some hours under the hood giving everything a thorough good clean. Its filthy and the clean bits are just showing everything up.