Anything not covered by the other topics in 'The Lounge'. Keep it clean...!
#163983 by Robsey
Sun Sep 10, 2017 10:31 pm
If you mean heater panel bulbs, any car parts shop will sell them.

They are standard 12volt, 1.2 watt clear capless bulbs. Type 286 rings a bell.

They are expensive for what they are, from Halfords, so it is better to shop around.
#163993 by vaux16v
Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:53 pm
Im only seeing the reply now. Didn't know it was on page 2. Lol. I need a few. Mite as well do it all now.
#163994 by Robsey
Wed Sep 13, 2017 1:39 am
286 are standard 1.2 watt bulbs.
These are fitted to -
the heater panel,
cigarette lighter and
Clock,
dual info display or
fuel computer
dependent upon what you have fitted

If you are doing the instrument panel illumination, then the three bulbs in green holders are a different higher wattage unit.
From memory these are 2 watt items.

The alternator / charge warning bulb is a bigger 3 watt bulb.

All other dash warning bulbs are the "standard" 1.2 watt 286 bulbs.

All switches are illuminated by miniature soldered in bulbs.

I think that is everything in and around the dash panel.
#164003 by vaux16v
Wed Sep 13, 2017 10:20 pm
Bought bulbs the day along with a radio harness and hazzard light switch.

Fingers crossed that i have found a few more problems with the cooling fan and heating fan. Seems to be no power getting to either which leads to the ignition switch.

The lights on the instrument panel seems to dim down the slightest bit when anything electrical is switched on ie, the brake switch. Would this be a bad earth somewhere

Just want to say thanks to all for the help with the topic.
#164004 by Robsey
Wed Sep 13, 2017 10:52 pm
The illumination dimming could be any of the following -
A weak battery.
Bad earth-
Loose terminals on the battery, alternator or starter.

It is quite normal for panel bulbs to dim if a high powered device is operated - usually hazards, power steering on full lock or heated rear window demister.

As said though - check battery voltage output.
Engine not running - 12 to 13 volts.
Engine running - 13.5 to 14.9 volts.

And check that the battery terminals are clean and securely fitted.
Don't forget the earth strap from the gearbox or bell housing.

It sounds to me that the whole car needs a good dose of checking and cleaning every connector plug and their pins as you go along.

As for the fans...
The obvious comment is to check the fuses.

And if it is the heater blower fan, are you able run the fan on top speed setting.
If yes, then it could be the resister pack on the motor itself under the scuttle panel
At the centre rear of the engine bay.

There are some brown earth wires also located under the scuttle panel a little left of centre for the window wipers and blower motor.
#164005 by Robsey
Wed Sep 13, 2017 11:05 pm
If you are fitting an aftermarket radio,
Remember that for some bizarre reason, 90% of looms need the battery live and ignition live wires swapping over.

Cavalier ISO pin 2 is black, which is ignition live.
On after market looms pin 2 is permanent battery live. (Often a red wire.)

Cavalier ISO pin 4 is brown, which is ground / earth / chassis.
On aftermarket looms pin 4 is still ground / chassis but instead the colour is often black.

Cavalier ISO pin 8 is red, which is permanent battery live.
On aftermarket looms pin 8 is ignition live.
(Often orange or yellow wire).

So in simple terms - to fit an aftermarket radio - swap over the wires on pins 2 and 8 on one socket only.
#164027 by vaux16v
Sat Sep 16, 2017 1:39 pm
Goin to check everything as i go along. A bit if good news tho that i found the problem with the blower fan and tye cooling fan. I checked the ignition switch and ther was no power coming out of the black cable that was leading to the fans so changed it and all the fans started to work.

Cooling fan coming on about 97 degrees wud that be right.
#164028 by Cavalier342
Sat Sep 16, 2017 1:59 pm
That's about perfect, anything between 95 and 100 is ok.
#164030 by Robsey
Sat Sep 16, 2017 2:07 pm
Yep sounds about right for correctly functioning temperature sensor and gauge.

Some gauges can be a bit out, making it look like the temperature gets as high as 103 before the fan kicks in.
#164033 by vaux16v
Sat Sep 16, 2017 8:04 pm
The first time it came was bout 103 then in around 97 mark. Probably hasnt be on in bout 7 years.

Thought at one time that the car was never going to be going right
#164034 by Cavalier342
Sat Sep 16, 2017 9:21 pm
Maybe worth replacing the temperature gauge sender, if you think it's not accurate. The radiator fan works off a different sensor so even if your temperature gauge isn't reading correct, it should still kick in as normal.

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