Buying a Cav

[Pob]

Hi all.

I've had a couple of cavalier's and there was possibiiliy the cheapest and most reliable car I've had. Anyway, I don't know if this has been covered before or a buying guide posted at somepoint (I've searched but couldn't find it)

When looking to buy a Mk3 cav what should I look out for? I've had 8v's in the past, is it worth going for a C20XE? I've seen some information about porous head effecting certain heads.. is there anything else to look out for?

What sort of price should I expect to pay for a decent SRi (Redtop)

Many Thanks,
Dan

[Cavalier342]

Hello mate
8v models are a good bet, usually very dependable and of course the famous cam-safe features make them fantastic engines.
Depends what budget you're on really. Good SRi's i've seen anything from £500 to a grand. Sometimes more. Good examples keep their value well. The SRi owners here should tell you exactly what you need to know, i'm only a small block at the moment.
Hope this helps.
Andrei

[Pob]

Thanks for the reply,

What are the common problem with Cavaliers? I know the rear arches are a little prone to rust... I didn't have any problems with both of mine. Aparts from a bearing whine and the HT lead popping off it on my 1.8. My dad use to have one and that suffered from rust above the windscreen (New screen fitted and rust came through after time) and water in the boot which is a simple fix. Is there anything I should look out for?

Thanks,
Dan

[Cavalier342]

To be honest, a car is a car, any will have its own faults. Cavaliers just go and go as long as theyre looked after. Obviously, rust can be a small issue, which gets bigger if neglected. Steering racks can be an issue in rare cases. Mine is on its way out but as i mentioned it is rare. Apart from that its general wear&tear and how the vehicle has been maintained and kept.
Andrei

[Squig]

With how reliable they are and how cheap parts can be (esp 8v's) the main thing to worry about is the body in regard to tin worm. Basically if there's no rust on an 8v and the car doesn't smoke when cold, winner. Try and buy one that's been rained on overnight before you buy, as it's easier to find leaky seals etc etc...

C20XE's follow the same principles, but most tap for a few minutes on a cold start, not a big worry, and run a paperclip test, see the How2 in the maintenance for EML (engine management light) hoping for a clear reading (i.e. 12 repeated over and over).

Other than this it's as any other car...

[HAIRIBO]

To be honest. I've jujst paid £300 for a cav, I didn'y even give it a good luck round as I bored it off ebay and had a 200mile train ride to get there, so it was coming home with me no matter what, lol.

Luckerly the only things wrong with it were the things the guy told me about.

1. Tryes were shot.

2. Brakes where needing replace.

3. Centre pipe and back box had rusted at the join and blew, until he bodged it, but needed replacing.

4. Aieral was broken off.

5. Slight play in one front wishbone bush.

Took it to my garage for them to have a poke about while doing a service, and He just repeated the list to me.

It's gonna cost a few hundered to fix everything for MOT, and the tryes I've bought cost £8 less than the car lol. But They way I see it. The stuff that needs doing is just genral wear and tear.

Like squig said , a car is a car. If its been looked after they should be all right. But stuff dose get old and worn. But rust is always some thing to look out for. As welding can be expensive.

[Envoy CDX]

You know it comes to something when you pay more for the tyres than you do the car (yes, I've done it before )

[HAIRIBO]

Rainsports lol, want it grippy as it's going to be used in the bad 6months of the year, and the other alloys have Yokos on for the good (Better) 6months of the year.

[crocadmin]

well iv owned 8 cavs over the yrs, a couple of mk2 but mostly pre & post face lift mk3s, the post facelift mk3 r probs the best in the rust department, my 94 M reg expression has no rust @ all, the only thing i can think of is to check all the electrics, light switches, indicator/wiper stalks can wear as to the heater switches, but on the hole as all have already said, if its been looked after it should be good, my only other advise would be dont go out & buy the first one you see but dont rule out it might be the best one you see ok