Interior lamp not working...

[snowy]

My interior lamp doesn't work when you open either of the drivers side doors but works when you open the passenger side door. It also works when you pull the headlamp switch.

I have checked the supply to the passenger side doors and I have 12 volts.

When I check the supply to the drivers door. The warning buzzer has 12 volts, and works, but the interior lamp only has 8 volts and doesn't.

Checking the supply to the rear drivers door shows the same 8 volts.

Since the Haynes manual shows that all doors are fed from the same supply I'm not sure where to start looking? Anyone else had this before?

Thanks

[Cavalier342]

Try cleaning the contacts on the pin switches. Maybe they are dirty and causing resistance.

[snowy]

Try cleaning the contacts on the pin switches. Maybe they are dirty and causing resistance.

The switches are fine. The 8 volts is the issue, I'm just not sure where to look next?

[Robsey]

I can only agree with Andrei on this one.
The circuit is quite simple.

Only other thought is the electric window switch panel in the centre console.

I wonder if you have current / voltage leak through the window switch panel.

Do the switches light up very dimly AFTER you turn off the ignition and then open and close the driver's door.?

If yes, look for a fault in the switch pcb.

[snowy]

I can only agree with Andrei on this one.
The circuit is quite simple.

Only other thought is the electric window switch panel in the centre console.

I wonder if you have current / voltage leak through the window switch panel.

Do the switches light up very dimly AFTER you turn off the ignition and then open and close the driver's door.?

If yes, look for a fault in the switch pcb.

I haven't checked that but I will take a look. Thanks

[snowy]

Looks like its the electric window switch. As if I remove it and bridge the correct wires the door when opened turns the light on.

I tried cleaning and remaking the pcb connections. No joy. Need a new one.

Thanks

[Robsey]

Should be a few knocking about on ebay.

I thought about the switches, because I had loads of problems with my central locking until I replaced the whole switch assembly.

The give away was dimly glowing yellow lights in my switches no matter what I did with the doors.

[Cavalier342]

If it's a 2-way window switch, I have a spare unit here out of my old LS, let me know. Worked fined when I had it in the car, never had issues with it.

[snowy]

If it's a 2-way window switch, I have a spare unit here out of my old LS, let me know. Worked fined when I had it in the car, never had issues with it.

It is. How much posted, if you message me your details I will send you some money. Thanks

[Cavalier342]

For some reason I am unable to contact you via the forum, you have no PM icon, can you check your settings in User Control Panel, to make sure that the setting for allowing other members to contact you is on.

Regards.

[snowy]

For some reason I am unable to contact you via the forum, you have no PM icon, can you check your settings in User Control Panel, to make sure that the setting for allowing other members to contact you is on.

Regards.

Thanks for that. I didn't know my settings were like that.

Hopefully you can PM me now? Just in case you have any other parts I might need can you look at my wanted ad in the parts wanted section?

Thanks

[Cavalier342]

Yes, it's sorted now, thanks. PM replied.

[snowy]

I can only agree with Andrei on this one.
The circuit is quite simple.

Only other thought is the electric window switch panel in the centre console.

I wonder if you have current / voltage leak through the window switch panel.

Do the switches light up very dimly AFTER you turn off the ignition and then open and close the driver's door.?

If yes, look for a fault in the switch pcb.

Ok got another good switch today. But I still have the same issue.

Both passenger doors when opened make the interior light come on.

Pulling the head lamp switch out causes the lamp to come on.

But the drivers doors do not. But I'm only getting 8.5volts to the switches.

When I open the doors the electric window switches light up. Should they do this?

Really want to fix this!!

Thanks

[Robsey]

Yes the electric window switches should illuminate when: -

A - you open the doors
B - turn on ignition
C - turn on the lights - (i think)
D - after you turn off the ignition - until you open and close the drivers door.


On your drivers door dip switch, there should be two or three grey wires - not just one.

Sounds like at least one wire is loose or dirty...

[snowy]

Yes the electric window switches should illuminate when: -

A - you open the doors
B - turn on ignition
C - turn on the lights - (i think)
D - after you turn off the ignition - until you open and close the drivers door.


On your drivers door dip switch, there should be two or three grey wires - not just one.

Sounds like at least one wire is loose or dirty...

The switches are not loose or dirty. Yes both cables are connected. Yes the warning buzzer is working.

The problem is there is only 8.5 volts on the grey cable for the interior lamp.

There is 12 volts on the grey white cable for the warning buzzer.

I'm just not sure where to look to find out why there is 8.5 volts on the cable to the door.

I'm just going to start taking the interior out now to trace the wiring back.

[snowy]

Just in case the same thing happens to someone else there is a connector right by the gearstick for the drivers side interior lamp switch and warning buzzer.

I have the 12 volts required here. So tested the resistance of the cable to the door and it is high. The warning buzzer cable is fine.

So tomorrow I will just run a new cable in as it's not worth the effort to find where the issue is.

Thanks

[snowy]

Solved. It wasn't the joint by the gear stick but the one a bit further down. It had corroded.

[Cavalier342]

Interesting. Is your floor pan damp or wet at all? Or is just an isolated issue?

[Robsey]

Worth checking for squelchy underlay / foam whilst you are down there.

Good to see it was something simple to sort. Even if it was a bit of a faff to pin down.

Good man for sticking with it and getting it sorted.

[snowy]

Worth checking for squelchy underlay / foam whilst you are down there.

Good to see it was something simple to sort. Even if it was a bit of a faff to pin down.

Good man for sticking with it and getting it sorted.

All dry although it must have been pretty wet at one point in its life

[cavalier1990]

Just in case anyone has this problem I found a wire from the drivers door switch that had cracked insulation and wires were corroded. I distinctly remember my interior light was working on drivers door being opened but is now after trimming and putting bullet connectors between them.

You can see the wire with the tape round it as the culprit.



I had a lot of problems with dampness which wouldn't have helped. There is a bit of foam in the little aperture where the light switch is if you have kick panel and ECU etc. out you'll see it. Worth drying this out as mine was still wet.

[dorsetdave]

I have exactly the same interior lights problem as snowy on my recently acquired CD. I need to get to the connector near the gear lever. My car is an auto so:-
Is there a connector there on an auto?
What's the easiest way to get to it?
What's the route of the wiring once it heads off towards the lights and buzzer?
I don't know if it is relevant but the car has the standard factory alarm on it but it seems not to be operational. All other things on the car work normally.
Any suggestions gratefully received.

[Robsey]

From memory, the grey wire runs from the driver's kick panel, rearwards under the plastic sill cover.

Just about level with the front of the seat rail, the grey wire then navigates it's way towards the centre console under the carpet.

I have a manual, but I simply unscrew the self tapper that links the front half to the rear.

And the two screws under the rubber mat at the rear of the console behind the hand brake.

Unscrew the self tapper at the front of the handbrake trim.
And so on...

At worst, run a wire directly from the window switch connector to the driver's door dip-switch.

Remember it is the grey wire, not the grey with white stripe.

[dorsetdave]

Thanks Robsey, that's next week's job on the schedule!

[Robsey]

A lot of the wiring crosses the car approx level with the front seats.

The fuel computer switch and electric windows are powered from the big connector in the passenger foowell.

So the route is along the passenger side sill, under the plastic cover.
Wire then turns at 90° towards the driver's side.
Arriving at the exhaust tunnel close to the hand brake.



The central locking and door dip switches are routed via the driver's footwell.
So wiring from either of these will proceed along the driver's side sill under the plastic cover.
It then turns 90° towards the passenger side roughly level with the front of the seat or handbrake.
Untill it meets the connector under the centre console level with the handbrake.



Meeting in the middle.