The Heater Panel Bulb always on.
Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 9:06 pm
This isn't a how 2 as such, but an answer to a really simple question.
How Can I Stop my Heater Panel Bulb From Burning Out?.
There are two ways: -
1 - Convert to LEDs. Not overly difficult, but a bit of a faff.
2 - Rewire the bulb so that it only comes on with the lights, rather than being on all the time that the ignition is on.
I am going to concentrate on option 2.
Having the bulb illuminated only when the lights are on.
For this task, you will need: -
A soldering iron.
Heat shrink sleeving if you are OCD like me.
A couple of 6.3mm female spade connectors.
I use the silicon insulator boots as well.
A couple of lengths of wire - 0.75mm csa will be thick enough.
Optional - piggy back fuse holder.
It really is simple. - After you have got the panel out of your dash. And disconnected the blower motor main connector from the body loom.
Stripping Out.
The bulb connector is linked to the blower motor switch via two thin purple wires.
So simply un-plug the white connector from the blower motor switch.
Then unplug the bulb holder.
In most cases the purple wires are soldered to the legs of the holder.
Unthread the purple wire from the retainer hook in the panel.
This is what you will have removed.
The best method to re-wire the bulb holder is to de-solder (or sweat off) the purple wires from the holder.
Try to leave as little solder behind on the legs of the holder.
The Re-Wire.
The easiest way is to get two 6.3mm female spade connectors and insulators.
I tend to get mine from Maplins.
Firstly crimp or preferably solder and sleeve connectors onto one end of two wires.
It helps if they are different colours but not essential.
If you are keeping the standard 1.2 watt 12 volt capless bulb, then it can be wired up either way (polarity).
Run one wire to either a grey/ black wire of your choice or connect to a piggy back fuse holder and insert into fuse box location Fuse 9.
The other wire should go to another brown wire or any good metal grounding point.
Connect your connectors to the bulb holder and test, by turning your lights on and off.
If all is well re-assemble.
Assembly.
Thread your two new wires into the underside of the heater panel near to the side of the blower motor switch location.
Thread the wire over the guide hook toward the bulb holder receiver.
Plug the bulb holder into the receiver hole.
And then connect up the wires to the bulb holder.
Now you have the fun of refitting the blower switch and then the heater panel to your dash.
Oh joy!!
If using LEDs for the illumination, the polarity of any wiring is important, as LEDs will not illuminate if wired up "backwards".
Images now updated care of PostImages.org
How Can I Stop my Heater Panel Bulb From Burning Out?.
There are two ways: -
1 - Convert to LEDs. Not overly difficult, but a bit of a faff.
2 - Rewire the bulb so that it only comes on with the lights, rather than being on all the time that the ignition is on.
I am going to concentrate on option 2.
Having the bulb illuminated only when the lights are on.
For this task, you will need: -
A soldering iron.
Heat shrink sleeving if you are OCD like me.
A couple of 6.3mm female spade connectors.
I use the silicon insulator boots as well.
A couple of lengths of wire - 0.75mm csa will be thick enough.
Optional - piggy back fuse holder.
It really is simple. - After you have got the panel out of your dash. And disconnected the blower motor main connector from the body loom.
Stripping Out.
The bulb connector is linked to the blower motor switch via two thin purple wires.
So simply un-plug the white connector from the blower motor switch.
Then unplug the bulb holder.
In most cases the purple wires are soldered to the legs of the holder.
Unthread the purple wire from the retainer hook in the panel.
This is what you will have removed.
The best method to re-wire the bulb holder is to de-solder (or sweat off) the purple wires from the holder.
Try to leave as little solder behind on the legs of the holder.
The Re-Wire.
The easiest way is to get two 6.3mm female spade connectors and insulators.
I tend to get mine from Maplins.
Firstly crimp or preferably solder and sleeve connectors onto one end of two wires.
It helps if they are different colours but not essential.
If you are keeping the standard 1.2 watt 12 volt capless bulb, then it can be wired up either way (polarity).
Run one wire to either a grey/ black wire of your choice or connect to a piggy back fuse holder and insert into fuse box location Fuse 9.
The other wire should go to another brown wire or any good metal grounding point.
Connect your connectors to the bulb holder and test, by turning your lights on and off.
If all is well re-assemble.
Assembly.
Thread your two new wires into the underside of the heater panel near to the side of the blower motor switch location.
Thread the wire over the guide hook toward the bulb holder receiver.
Plug the bulb holder into the receiver hole.
And then connect up the wires to the bulb holder.
Now you have the fun of refitting the blower switch and then the heater panel to your dash.
Oh joy!!
If using LEDs for the illumination, the polarity of any wiring is important, as LEDs will not illuminate if wired up "backwards".
Images now updated care of PostImages.org