Central locking being odd

[VectraGoVroom]

Welp, back again. I retrofitted that Vectra-B remote central locking module to my car last summer, and yesterday it stopped working. Dead. I pulled it off and fitted the original one back in, and instantly all the doors opened and started functioning again. Thing is, the trunk and fuel door locks are still dead. I managed to climb in and open the trunk from the inside, force the lock lever over and remove the lock stud for the fuel door so I'll manage without for a while, but they'll need fixing. Maybe there's some calibration procedure I need to do? Any ideas?

Also, while we're talking locks, is there some kind of trick to unlocking the trunk with the key? I'm starting to suspect the lock may have been changed...

[Robsey]

Standard locking and unlocking of the boot / hatch using the key is...

Turn key clockwise as far as it will go is unlock. (Over-riding the main central locking)

Turn key anti-clockwise as far as it will go, so that the blade of the key is vertical is lock (over-riding the central locking).

Turn the key anti-clockwise (to vertical) and then clock-wise so that the key blade is horizontal, should lock the boot but then sets the locking to follow the actions of the central locking module.

This is roughly how mine works.

From memory there are separate trigger wires to and from the boot to the central locking module.
Maybe one of the wires is damaged or a connector pin is corroded.

There is a 17 stage check procedure in TIS for fault finding the Cavalier / Vectra-A central door locking system.

It is a long list of checks, that I have not had chance to write up yet.

Basic checks for now would be to check both fuses are okay... 12 and 17, I think.

And that all wires upto the rear load area / boot are clean, securely fitted and intact.

[VectraGoVroom]

Well, I stuck a multimeter in the plug for the fuel door actuator, and it's getting 12V both ways. Couldn't test the trunk plug yet, but I suppose the next thing to do is testing the actuators. The connectors are quite deep in there and not easily visible, got any tricks for powering them up without shorting anything?

I just had another one of these cars come through my shop for wrecking, too bad the scrapyard just picked it up for a few days ago. It's a cube now.

[Robsey]

Looking at the actuator plugs.

There are two main wires for operating the motors.
Black Red and Black Yellow.

To test the actuators,
Connect +12 volts to Black Red
And
Ground to Black Yellow.
This will drive the motor one way.

As obvious as it sounds.
To check the other direction of motor travel, simply connect
+12 volts to Black Yellow and
Ground to black red.

If the motor is working, it should very quickly extend or retract the actuator.

If the actuator does not move, then either the connector / socket pins are faulty or the motor is faulty.

It is recommended that you unplug the central locking module before you inject 12 volts into the actuator to be tested.
Or unplug each actuator motor before testing them.

[VectraGoVroom]

Look at that, two medium-rare motors. Just need to find new ones somewhere. Got any idea what speed these might be? A lot of ebay listings say 11800rpm motors are suited for power locks, but that seems a bit high.

[Robsey]

Looking at the mabuchi motors website the 11400 rpm motor fc280sc is indeed the correct motor for central locking systems.

I selected it looking for automotive and then door lock motors.

It may be correct, as that is the rpm without any load.
This figure will drop significantly when pushing or pulling a link rod to a locking mechanism.