battery light bulb;

[T1BBST3R]

Greetings all,
have a slight problem would like to bring to your attention before doing something bad like breaking my odometer.

I was driving home from work last Tuesday I think it was, it was very hot, like 35 degrees. Not long after driving down the road, battery light started blinking very fast when under 2k revs and constntly stayed on at 2+k revs, airbag and engine light were intermittently lighting up (I've joined the AA now).

Anyway, after about 6 miles, the problem just seemed to go away as the lights stopped coming on and the car seemed to run fine again.

When I got where I was going I turned the ignition back on and noticed the battery warning bulb has stopped lighting up. So, one came in the post today but I can't get the thing in because I cant remove the instrument panel.

It will twist a little but I cant get my hand in to disconnect the milometer wire. I am thinking if I force it hard then it may just snap so was wondering how exactly anyone got theirs off before if they can remember.

The picture below shows just how much of a gap I can create, just enough to get a straight tool up to where it would need to undo the milometer cable perhaps? It seems there is a kind of metal clip hanging over it in the second picture.

20180730_175611 by terry_tibbs2012, on Flickr

20180730_182132 by terry_tibbs2012, on Flickr


Apparently the original fault was with the voltage regulator but a test with a voltmeter showed around 12.4 tick over and 14.8 with the revs so think is ok again now..........

[Cavalier342]

If you have thin fingers, you can get to the retaining metal clip which holds the speedo drive cable to the instrument cluster. You have to push the bottom of the clip (the bit that sticks out) in towards the instrument cluster and pull the cable out from the cluster at the same time, it should pop out. Reattaching the cable is simple, with a bit of force it just snaps back into position.
It is fiddly, you can pull the cluster out a little bit without breaking anything, but obviously not too far. You should be able to do it with one hand, grab the cable with your forefinger and middle finger, and use the next finger to push the clip in while pulling at the cable, please don't think of any dirty thoughts here lol.

I've done this several times and each time it's easier once you remember how to get in there, it is tight but doable, and also don't forget to reconnect the wiring plugs into the back of the cluster when re-fitting it.

Be prepared to lose some light skin layers on your first attempts, there isn't much room there to play with as you will know.

[T1BBST3R]

Thanks,
Wasn't sure whether the cable needed to twist off or there was some extra clips somewhere other than the one in the photo.
Would have replaced all the bulbs seeing as i'm getting to them anyway but at £2.50 each this would be quite expensive plus there isn't a lot of stock out there.
Shame I don't know any small children I can call upon for the task. When I was in primary school my Mother got me out once to put my arm in the letter box to open the door.

Anyway,
Thanks again

[Cavalier342]

I haven't tried any tools to push the clip in personally, because you still need to get hold of the cable to pull it out, it's a case of holding the instrument cluster in one hand and working the clip and cable with the other, and you're welcome.

Good luck with it. Keep us posted.

[Robsey]

I used to turn the cluster towards the heater panel, and reach behind from the side nearest the driver's window.

Far easier than attacking the cluster when twisted the other way.

As for the standard cluster bulbs...
You can get packs of 10 from ebay for the same price that you get two from places like Halfords.

Also note that the alternator bulb is physically bigger than the others and is rated at 3 watts.

There are two wattage ratings of the other cluster bulbs.
There are four illumination bulbs usually with a green plastic base. If I remember correctly the illumination bulbs are rated at 2 watts.
Standard cluster tell-tale / warning bulbs are only 1.2 watts. And can come with a black base or without a base at all. (Capless).
Standard bulb code number is a "286".

The 1.2 watt capless bulbs are also fitted to the heater panel (only one bulb), cig lighter illumination ring, clock, fuel computer or dual info display.

[T1BBST3R]

Still couldn't get my hand up enough to pull the cable off but did manage to twist the instrument panel enough to get out the bulb. Thanks Robsey for letting me know the alternator bulb is a different size, here it is with the bulb I got in the post;

20180731_184856 by terry_tibbs2012, on Flickr

The only damn bulb in there different to all the rest including oil.

Could I get a link please, all I can tell is it says ' OS 12v W3W (E1) 2GM w4o' on it and typing that into ebay brings up a list of LEDs....... Heater bulb light would also be nice if it's not too much trouble (can't find that either).

The car also went to a auto electrician today about diss-connecting the imobilizer but he basically said not to bother as it will be very expensive. He thinks it's probably a bad connection which could be with the ECU heating up amongst other things and also it's not going to be as easy as just cutting some wires to bypass the circuit.

Got the same problem and the idea from the guy in this link here; https://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk ... ng.138438/

Any thoughts?

[Robsey]

It is very easy to bypass the immobiliser,
But I will not post up on a public facing forum.

It should be a matter of shorting two wires together.
But I would look around the anti-theft warning module for the answer.

Sorry to sound cryptic, but I need to protect everyone else who has a factory fit immobiliser and anti-theft warning system.

As for the bulb spec.

Here is the bulb you want.
W3w or a 504 bulb
12 volts 3 watts.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car- ... -QQAvD_BwE

There are various ebay shops and Halfords who charge between £4-£5 for the same thing.

[Robsey]

Still couldn't get my hand up enough to pull the cable off but did manage to twist the instrument panel enough to get out the bulb.

Any thoughts?

That is more or less what I said to do.
Twist the instrument cluster towards the heater panel, then reach in around the side to release the connector first,
And then unlatch thr speedo cable.

Then withdraw the cluster.
You may have to turn the steering wheel a little to one side or the other to get the cluster fully out from the dash.

Once out, you can play as much as you like chopping and changing bulbs.

It is at this point where some people swap their existing illumination bulbs (green plastic base) to coloured LEDs to give a different look and feel.

[T1BBST3R]

Great, you are a star, will be happy to have all the bulbs working again.

And I can P.M for information on this 'anti-theft module' ?

[Robsey]

Yes you can or better still pm me with a preferred email address and I can go into more detail

[T1BBST3R]

Just tried to register on to the opcom site in the link but can't register for the following reasons;

The following errors were detected in your registration. Please correct them to continue:
The "OPCOM Firmware" field cannot be left blank.
The "OPCOM Version" field cannot be left blank.

Whoops, just noticed the speech bubble (mustn't have loaded for me).

[Robsey]

Pm sent.
email sent

As for the OpComusers forum you do not need to register there to contact me.

Regards,
Rob.