Strip and Clean an Electric Aerial. Discussion

[Robsey]

Item 1 quotes 70s and 80s vehicles... Identifying only the early models. This is very remeniscent of an aftermarket aerial that I fitted to my 1987 mk2 Cav saloon.

Item 2 is quite "ugly" and although it says "most Vauxhall", it would look very odd on anything after 1988.

Item 3 quotes Cavalier mk1 and mk2, but not mk3 in the text of the description.

I presume all aerials would need an adapter if connecting in the load area...
or an extension lead to reach the socket in the left-hand footwell.

[Telegram Sam]

Update on my N-reg 1995 LSi hatch aerial replacement story:
The reason that the mast is jammed is that it has obviously been bent sometime in the past. There is a kink near the base of the lower section which no amount of Flash Cleaner, WD 40 and elbow grease is going to straighten. Heat possibly but ....
The mast itself has now become detached from its base. I have measured the O/D of the lower section @ 8.5 mm and the I/D @ 7.3 mm
The main criterium as I see it now is ease of replacement. If it is anything more than a plug and fit I would try to get someone more qualified to do the job.
The options are far as sourcing from eBay etc is concerned would seem to be
1. Replacement of the complete drive motor and aerial mast assembly
2. Replacement of aerial mast only - to "plug into" the existing motor assuming the latter still works
3. Replacement with manually extendable aerial (leaving existing drive motor redundant)
4. Replacement with fixed non extendable stubby aerial
Obviously a replacement motor costs more than a mast alone. But can you say if there is anything to choose between these options at this stage?
Thanks

[Robsey]

The criteria will be based upon your own needs, desires or expectations.

Ebay complete powered aerials are not mega expensive and are pretty much plug and play.
Just swap the bottom plastic mounting casting across to the new aerial motor body.
I had to convert the power wires to spade connectors, but that was it. Two wires, two crimps. Job done.

The down side is that the motors are much cruder and louder in operation than I remember the original GM aerial motor being.

A manual aerial is okay if you do not have little scrotes taking pleasure out of snapping it, if you forget to retract it at the end of your journey.

And obviously a little stubby rubber-duck type aerial is pretty much vandal proof, but then it will not look original factory spec.

Final option - is to get the aerial hole blanked off and fit an internal screen mounted di-pole aerial instead.
Totally vandal proof, and usually fit and forget.
No maintenance or repairs.
Also totally invisible from the outside if fitted behind the sunstrip shade band.

I think that I had all but the powered option fitted on my mk2 Cavalier at one time or another.

[Telegram Sam]

That was helpful.
Needs, desires etc = Basic, limited, functional rather than aesthetic.
Seems from what you say that the complete powered assembly is the one to go for a. if it fits and b. if I factor in labour charges for fitting one of the alternatives. I'd put up with the noise.
Other things being equal I'd take a chance on the vandalism aspect of the manual one. And not worry about the stubby one not looking like a genuine GM. But if they are more hassle to fit than the whole unit that would be their downsides.
Your "final" option sounds very ambitious but admirable as it is would be rather OTT unless I have misunderstood how complex or easy it would be to hook it up.
Tks

[Robsey]

There is a standard aerial socket in the passenger footwell.
So fitting of the screen mounted unit is modestly simple.
Aerial di-pole itself goes in the top left corner of the screen.
Aerial coax runs down the inside of the left A pillar trim to the socket in the footwell.

There is a power and ground wire for the built-in amplifier.

The earth braid can be grounded using the interior light frame mounting screw.

The power feed - if you have a black ignition live feed to your interior light, the you could tap into that.

If you have a basic light with no delay / fade-out function, then you could run the feed wire from the black wire on the glove box light socket.

I would not expect you to try to tap into the designated amplifier red/white or red/grey wire from the radio's ISO connector loom.

(Pin 7 of the ISO plug for those who are interested).
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=281

[Telegram Sam]

Tks, modestly simple for you but otherwise a job for a sparkie. I'd prefer to go for one of your other options given the choice. If all else fails however ..

[Telegram Sam]

Latest findings: The unit can pick up and broadcast radio signals despite the lack of an aerial, though the quality is not perfect in all areas, as could be expected. It calls itself a Kenwood KDC 309A. The service manual is
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Ken ... 58545.html
the instruction manual is
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/20399 ... e=7#manual
Kenwood seem to lump together models with quite different ID numbers in the same instruction manual
The latter does not unfortunately explain the function of the button 2 in from the top left hand corner in their diagram. It could well be the antenna raise / lower control. If I press on it it makes a sound for a few seconds that could well be that of the unit "ghosting" the movement of the non-existent aerial - EXCEPT that the sound seems to come from the area of the radio and not from the back wing where the aerial motor is located. If my guess is correct the aerial motor itself is working and does not need to be replaced. If I am wrong the sound means something else and I will have to look for a replacement motor (+ aerial). Problem.

[Robsey]

The up arrow 2nd button top left looks like the cd eject button.
So it could be the cd ejector motor whirring.

My old VDO radio whirrs in the same way.

[Telegram Sam]

Looks like you're right. Is there any way (short of dismantling) to test if the aerial motor is working?

[Robsey]

Easiest way is to remove the radio. To prevent any damage, and to allow access to the loom plug.
(ISO connector).
Then look at the ISO connector at the back.

Short the red wire in the plug to the red/white or red/grey wire. (Vauxhall colours, not Kenwood colours if using an adapter).
This is more or less what the radio does when it is powered up.
It puts 12 volts onto the red/white or red/grey wire, which tells the aerial motor to raise the aerial.

Removing the short between the wires will cause the aerial motor to retract the aerial again.

The other way is to remove the radio to prevent any damage to it.
Then in the load area, look for the aerial power lead.
It should have the same two wires in the connector.
Shorting them together will extend the aerial.
Removing the short retracts the aerial.

So fitting and removing the short should allow you to hear the aerial motor running back and forth.