Central Locking Half Working

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Robsey
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Central Locking Half Working

Post by Robsey »

Apologies, but I will now ramble on about my ever annoying central locking system.

When the car came back from restoration in February 2017, Troy had got the central locking working perfectly fine.
All doors, hatch and petrol flap locks working as they should.

This lasted a few weeks.
I had scoffed at that time, because the central locking had been problematic for about ten years. Occasionally triggering the old alarm.

When I fitted a replacement alarm, I chose to omit the central locking wires.
Just to avoid further issues.

I have since fitted a Megamos remote locking module.

I have had the megamos fitted for a few weeks now.

My thoughts are that my issues are a wiring fault and possibly one dead actuator, not a module fault, because the same issues existed with all three types of central locking module when they were fitted.
1 - Standard Cavalier / Corsa Kiekert module.
2 - Vectra-B Kiekert remote central locking module.
3 - Vectra-B / Omega-B Megsmos remote central locking / anti-theft warning module.

I still have a lot of issues with my door locking motors, but I will get to the bottom of those eventually.

Findings are as follows: -

The driver's door works fine from the key in all locks and via the remote fob.

Front Passenger Door - faulty motor and / or wiring.?
The lock barrel micro-switch works fine and triggers the driver's door and hatch (lock and unlock). Not when driver's door is deadlocked.

When the front passenger door plunger is up, and the driver's door is locked via the key or remote, the driver's door and hatch locks will only lock briefly and unlock again, or will cycle between lock and unlock repeatedly until the central locking module "times out".
Unless I used the dead-lock on the driver's door key.

Rear doors are both dead - most likely broken wiring or corroded connector pins to the doors, or
Output wire from CDL plug? Unlikely as the passenger door lock and hatch lock do not operate the rear doors either.

All three doors ignore the driver's door plunger, motor and micro switches.

Rear hatch and petrol filler flap motors work perfectly from the driver's door plunger, motors and micro-switches.

I am sure that the hatch motor control output is a separate wire to that for the doors from the CDL connector.

The hatch switches will lock and unlock the driver's door and petrol filler flap, except when the driver's door is dead-locked.

So my thoughts are...

A - Faulty wiring from central locking 12 pin connector for lock, dead-lock and unlock of doors.

B- Faulty wiring to rear locking motors.

C - Faulty motor in front passenger door.
(Although I am certain that I tested a different used motor with no change in outcome). I have a third motor to test with if necessary. :scratch

Looks like a fun challenge.
It is probably a combination of at least two of the above... :wall
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Robsey
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Location: East Manchester

Re: Central Locking Half Working

Post by Robsey »

A little quirk indicated by the megamos alarm shows some further insight.

I have found that locking the front passenger door or the hatch via the key engages the module and therefore the anti-theft warning system.

The dash led flashes to indicate that the alarm is now "active".

Also moving the driver's door lock from dead-lock to lock engages the module.
But not from unlock to lock ??
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Robsey
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Re: Central Locking Half Working

Post by Robsey »

First thing to do, is list out all the connections.

Wires from the central locking module are: -
INPUTS TO MODULE.

1 - Brown / Red - Input from Tailgate / Boot Lock (key switch) lock signal.
2 - Brown / Red - Input from door look switches. - Lock signal.
4 - Brown / White - Input from Tailgate / Boot Lock (key switch). - Unlock Signal.
6 - Brown / White - Input from door lock switches. - Unlock Signal.

OUTPUTS FROM CDL

5 - Brown / Red - To window lifter / sunroof - Comfort closure signal from door switch.
7 - Black / Yellow - Output to door lock motors. "+" closed / "-" open.
8 - Black / Red - Output to door lock motors. "-" closed / "+" open.
12 - Red / Yellow from CDL module to micro-switch - Dead lock signal (Black / Blue within the door looms)


POWER CONNECTIONS

3 - Red - Ignition Live from fuse 12.
9 - Red - Permanent Live from fuse 17.

GROUND CONNECTION

11 - Brown - Ground / Chassis.
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Robsey
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Re: Central Locking Half Working

Post by Robsey »

PIN OUTS FOR THE FRONT DOORS ARE:-

Door Connector
(X31 for Driver's Door)
(X34 for Passenger Door)

7 - RED/YELLOW - Central Door Locks - x31 only (Dead-lock from CDL module to micro-switch).

8 - BROWN/RED - Central Door Locks out put to CDL Module - X31 only - lock signal.

10 - BLACK/RED - Central door Locks -
"-" closed / "+" open.

15 - BLACK/BLUE - Central Door Locks - Deadlock (signal from micro-switch to all doors).

16 - BROWN/WHITE - Central Door output to CDL Module - Unlock signal.

21 - BROWN/RED - Central door Locks - Output to CDL Module - x34 only - lock signal.

25 - BLACK/YELLOW - Central Door Locks -
"+" closed / "-" open.

29 - BROWN - Door Loom Earth
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Robsey
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Re: Central Locking Half Working

Post by Robsey »

First job will be to "bell out" the wires to the pins on the passenger side front door frame bayonet connector.

If they are live in the passenger door, then chances are that the front passenger motor is duff.

If not, then I will need to work my way across the car towards the driver's door loom bayonet connector.

As for the rear doors...
Same procedure, but working by wire colour, rather than pin number.
Only 4 or 5 wires maximum in the rear doors.

No electric windows, speakers or kerb lights in the back of an LSi.
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