Trip Computer

[Robsey]

No idea, first time we've used the plug ever. Wires all look in perfect condition and insulation is 'as new'. With the normal digital clock/temp display plugged in all is well.

Just read this comment, have you tried the computer without the Digital clock plugged in? (DID).

They are not meant to be BOTH plugged in at the same time.

[vauxhallnutter]

You dont need tech 1 or anything to recalibrate it, all you do is this:-

Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes

Reconnect

Remove fuse (its the one that also controls the hazzards and interior light)

Wait 5 minutes

Put fuse back in

Take fuse out and then put it straight back in again

Dont touch the reset button when in average economy

Go for a drive and it will then settle down and thats it you've calibrated it!


You can then reset it as much as you like!

[Robsey]

You dont need tech 1 or anything to recalibrate it, all you do is this:-
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes
Reconnect
Remove fuse (its the one that also controls the hazzards and interior light)
Wait 5 minutes
Put fuse back in
Take fuse out and then put it straight back in again
Dont touch the reset button when in average economy
Go for a drive and it will then settle down and thats it you've calibrated it!
You can then reset it as much as you like!

I will give this a try tomorrow - the fuse is Fuse 8 for interior lights, radio and hazard lights... so make sure you have the radio code if you need it.

I run a full CAN radio, so the code is already embedded between the radio and graphic display.

Do you need the ignition on for any part of this??
as you do not need to remove fuse 22 if the ignition is off.

so if the ignition is off, then it would be like removing the battery for the latter stages you describe...

[vauxhallnutter]

You dont need tech 1 or anything to recalibrate it, all you do is this:-
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes
Reconnect
Remove fuse (its the one that also controls the hazzards and interior light)
Wait 5 minutes
Put fuse back in
Take fuse out and then put it straight back in again
Dont touch the reset button when in average economy
Go for a drive and it will then settle down and thats it you've calibrated it!
You can then reset it as much as you like!

I will give this a try tomorrow - the fuse is Fuse 8 for interior lights, radio and hazard lights... so make sure you have the radio code if you need it.

I run a full CAN radio, so the code is already embedded between the radio and graphic display.

Do you need the ignition on for any part of this??
as you do not need to remove fuse 22 if the ignition is off.

so if the ignition is off, then it would be like removing the battery for the latter stages you describe...

I did it all with the ignition off so that seems to be the way to go. Found all this out by accident btw! When i was doing the meega sunroof comversion!

[Robsey]

Well I tried the routine as you described it.

Didn't make any difference to my set-up. maybe with all the faffing of installing the whole engine has done the callibration already.

Anyway I took some piccies for the OP to see what should happen with the ignition on and off...

So, When first installed, Ignition off.
(Only showing the time 1:52 PM)

And with the ignition on.
(Showing range - 58 miles, and time - 1:53 PM)

[Robsey]

And showing the programming / settings in the memory module.

R and S Buttons both held pressed -

Showing program No = 130
And Country of use = EC - European community
and firmware version = 01

And when the buttons are released

Revolutions of the wheel per mile = 6200 wheel revolutions per mile travelled.

[humbucker]

nifty

[blackv6]

right guys here is what ive got -------

the switch is plugged into the connector at the handbrake (plug nearest the drivers seat)

yellow plug as in pics

on the 4th pic notice the dash lights are on

ive had the poss lead off the batt for 10 mins pushed/held the buttons on the switch









now app the comp is working fine i sent it back to the seller and he plugged it into his calibra turbo and all is working (waiting on pics to confim this )

any ideas guys

o and now bought another computer and switch just in case it isnt working afterall

scott

[Robsey]

This is still quite odd...

I would check that the BROWN wire (no coloured stripe) is definately shorted to earth.

There are about 7 brown wires with stripes on.. two for diagnostics and 5 for the fuel computer switch.

Next is to check your permanent live is getting to the RED wire.

If needs be, fit a temporary jumper / flying lead to check voltage and earth connections.

The fact that you had odd illumination issues, makes me think a dodgey earth or dodgey permanent live feed.

Like I said in an earlier post - check fuses 8 and 22. (for 93 onward Cav's)

I am not too concerned about the black (ignition live), as the clock should come on without it.

[Robsey]

Take a sneaky peek here -

From a v6calibra thread- All the info you could need about the fuel computer on one page... nicely laid out too.

http://www.v6calibra.net/docs/calibra_v ... mputer.htm

[planetc]

Also.... difficult to see in the photo, but it looks like there is a gap at one end. Make sure the black insert in the yellow plug is pushed fully home in the yellow bit. I have seen these move and when you fit it in the back of the display it goes on one row of pins out.

[Robsey]

If my black piece isn't seated properly, then my yellow plug simply will not go in.

Although looking at the picture of the yellow plug (unplugged), it does not look like the black part is seated correctly - just as you point out Paul.

Anyway, after looking at the Calibra site, it did not give colours of the wires, so I just knocked this up quickly on excel, using Haynes as a guide.

fuel comp.JPG (100.46 KiB) Viewed 9805 times

Hope this helps

[blackv6]

Also.... difficult to see in the photo, but it looks like there is a gap at one end. Make sure the black insert in the yellow plug is pushed fully home in the yellow bit. I have seen these move and when you fit it in the back of the display it goes on one row of pins out.

do you mean yhe black part that has all the holes in it or the outer black part i looked again and it does look like the black holes part does look out of line is this correct?

scott

[Nova_Tek]

Id only get illumination when no ignition and nothing when ignition on. Only thing I have ever done to this Cav is swap the Red and Yellow wire around on the stereo wiring to get a perm live for memory. But I'm guessing that shouldn't change anything for the trip computer?

[Gaz]

no that wont effect it

[planetc]

Also.... difficult to see in the photo, but it looks like there is a gap at one end. Make sure the black insert in the yellow plug is pushed fully home in the yellow bit. I have seen these move and when you fit it in the back of the display it goes on one row of pins out.

do you mean yhe black part that has all the holes in it or the outer black part i looked again and it does look like the black holes part does look out of line is this correct?

scott

I think it should move closer into the yellow surround, you can see the moulded bits that should line up and interlock

[Robsey]

The inner black part with holes in, should be tight inside the yellow surround.. no gaps -

You can clearly see the moulded bits on the black plug are not meshed in with the corresponing bits of the yellow surround.

[planetc]

I love Robs diagrams, he has so much more patience than I do, lol

[Kevwaggy]

I love Robs diagrams, he has so much more patience than I do, lol

He's like an electrical encyclopaedic pixie! I want to find him and keep him in a box!

[Robsey]

We aim to please...

at over 6ft tall and nearly 14stones, I would be one big fat pixie

[blackv6]

cheers for all the help on this thread i hijacked got the comp back and fitted today made sure the yellow plug was correct with no gaps and i can report its WORKING just need to reset/set the time now so how do you do that

thanks scott

[Gaz]

little dimples between the switch, prod them with a pen

[planetc]

[blackv6]

lol done thanks