Show off your pride and joy! All Mk3 Cavaliers are welcome (please post only one thread per car)
#160907 by cavalier1990
Sun Jan 08, 2017 12:44 am
Ended up having a look inside the cam cover as I had suspected it was blocked up, there seemed to be quite a sweat of oil down the front of the cam cover that warranted further investigation. The cam cover seemed to be welded on, after removing the 10mm cam cover bolts, I had to hammer a screwdriver through the gasket in various places to break the seal. After getting it off though it seemed there wasn't any problems with gummed up pipes or the little mesh thing in cam cover. It was just a bit dirty as you would expect. I was in a kind of couldn't be bothered doing any bodywork mood so decided to have a wee play with the engine.
#160910 by Robsey
Sun Jan 08, 2017 2:17 am
Still good to give all the breather hoses and the mesh filter a good clean.

Sadly all my 8 valve Vauxhall engines have dribbled from the cam cover gaskets.
Usually within a matter of a few weeks of a thorough clean and fitting a new cork gasket.

Cav mk2 -13S
Cav mk3 - C18NZ
Cav mk3 - C20NE.
#160921 by cavalier1990
Sun Jan 08, 2017 10:55 pm
Robsey wrote:Still good to give all the breather hoses and the mesh filter a good clean.

Sadly all my 8 valve Vauxhall engines have dribbled from the cam cover gaskets.
Usually within a matter of a few weeks of a thorough clean and fitting a new cork gasket.


In an old book I have about tuning v8 chevy engines (don't ask!) it says to stop rocker cover leaks (or cam cover in our case) and for easy access to rocker area, is to seal the gasket to the rocker cover and grease the face down section of the gasket. This is more for easy access to tuners so that the gasket is not stuck on the facing and cover can be removed quickly. I tried this on my granada and it works a treat. No leaks whatsoever either. Might be something to consider for our cavs?

I did notice that when I removed the gasket that the squashed section was "dry" i.e. the oil hadn't penetrated through. I'm just wondering if maybe the oil cap was leaking. Only a clean up and time will tell.
#162100 by cavalier1990
Mon Apr 10, 2017 9:30 pm
Time to bring this resto back to life. I now have additional panel for front support at LH side.

Image

So tonight after work I jumped in the garage and cleaned back all the rusty bits I had previously treated. This is going to be a multi stage procedure because even though I had initially treated the rust I never painted it over the winter and it all slowly came back, some of it I wire brushed and grinded back then painted it with zinc 182 and left to see if more came through, and it did in places so I am doing those bits again more thoroughly plus redoing the O/S, which I had not touched since last year.

I am working my way round to the O/S front so once that is done I will clean back all the areas wit thinners, treat it, then wipe with thinners again and spray paint with zinc 182, on a dry day.
#162180 by cavalier1990
Mon Apr 17, 2017 9:17 pm
Now have worked my way round the car with the rust eater. I ended up cutting more of the drivers side sill off due to some hidden tin worm. Practically it was solid however under that good looking bit of the sill, on the centre inner strengthener, there was sandwiched some nice crumbly rust although not holed but was starting to expand.

The drivers door too is looking quite bad at the bottom. Again ,not holed but the rust was very pitted into the metal and I'm wondering now about replacement or cutting out and replacing as after grinding into it, it is very lumpy and the metal very thin in places. I'm not into welding patches into the bottom of the door where the metal is paper thin anyway so might opt for replacement should a door become available.

The passenger side was nowhere near as bad thankfully.
#162183 by Robsey
Mon Apr 17, 2017 10:41 pm
Doors do come up from time to time, but remember to keep hold of your existing bump-strips / mouldings.
They are nowhere near as easy to get hold of.

Ah the joys of chasing rust around a cavalier.
A bit like painting the Forth Bridge :shock:
#162194 by cavalier1990
Tue Apr 18, 2017 12:56 pm
Robsey wrote:Doors do come up from time to time, but remember to keep hold of your existing bump-strips / mouldings.
They are nowhere near as easy to get hold of.

Ah the joys of chasing rust around a cavalier.
A bit like painting the Forth Bridge :shock:


It is a bit like painting the forth bridge Robsey! I think what I am trying to do is make it so that the rust is contained for a long time, rather than what I might have done in the past i.e. one treatment then paint over with underseal or primer/top coat. Inevitably doing it that way seen the rust return within the year. I think this way it should hold it off for a good 3 or 4 years at least. Going to be a bit of a pain trying to rejoin the sills to the inner strengtheners. While I could ignore these I would like to retain originality and strength. It is a good thing they haven't rusted away as usually you would just bang the sill on and weld at the outer extremities.
#162259 by cavalier1990
Sun Apr 23, 2017 7:18 pm
Envoy CDX wrote:
cavalier1990 wrote:
Envoy CDX wrote:Sounds pretty cool - that panel arrived yet?


It did cheers mate


Fantastic! Can't wait to see it all fitted :D


Me too! Currently going round the rust again. I treated it and am now using one of those twisted wire brush things in a grinder, what a difference it makes to the rust, so one more treatment, clean again with brush, then spray with Zinc primer.

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