M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

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Cavalier342
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Cavalier342 »

The old radiator on my old C18NZ cracked at where the core meets the plastic on the offside, thermostat end, check for anti-freeze or brown stains where the plastic meets the metal, it could be that. Luckily it's a piece of piss to replace the radiators on these, so much room to work with and easy access.
Previous:
China Blue 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier L 18SV
Kings Blue 1992 Vauxhall Cavalier LSi Auto C18NZ
Smoke Grey 1994 Vauxhall Cavalier V6 C25XE

Am I a light sleeper or a heavy sleeper? Well that depends on how much I've had to drink...
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Cavalier342 wrote:The old radiator on my old C18NZ cracked at where the core meets the plastic on the offside, thermostat end, check for anti-freeze or brown stains where the plastic meets the metal, it could be that. Luckily it's a piece of piss to replace the radiators on these, so much room to work with and easy access.
I'm guessing that since had the car from 2008, and even then the rad didn't appear to be new, that it maybe the original one, so likely due a new one anyway.
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Cavalier342
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Cavalier342 »

Last one I bought was around £50 so for peace of mind it's not a bad option.
Previous:
China Blue 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier L 18SV
Kings Blue 1992 Vauxhall Cavalier LSi Auto C18NZ
Smoke Grey 1994 Vauxhall Cavalier V6 C25XE

Am I a light sleeper or a heavy sleeper? Well that depends on how much I've had to drink...
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

I don't know what it is about 1.8 Cavaliers, but ours had 5 radiators betweeen1995 and 2011.

Strangely, since fitting the 2.0 engine in 2011 we have not had to fit another radiator.
(Incidentally the same sitiation goes for back boxes / tail pipes).

The C18NZ seems a lot more delicate in the cooling system area than any other car that I have owned. That includes the head gasket too.

In reference to your earlier post,
The only parts that I am looking for are the heater control bowden cables.

Oh and drivers side sill cover in light grey. Unfortunately I cannot see how a sill cover could make it safely through the post. They are about 5 foot long and awfully brittle.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:I don't know what it is about 1.8 Cavaliers, but ours had 5 radiators betweeen1995 and 2011.

Strangely, since fitting the 2.0 engine in 2011 we have not had to fit another radiator.
(Incidentally the same sitiation goes for back boxes / tail pipes).

The C18NZ seems a lot more delicate in the cooling system area than any other car that I have owned. That includes the head gasket too.

In reference to your earlier post,
The only parts that I am looking for are the heater control bowden cables.

Oh and drivers side sill cover in light grey. Unfortunately I cannot see how a sill cover could make it safely through the post. They are about 5 foot long and awfully brittle.
I put the new rad in but noticed afterwards that the fan control switch was leaking a little. I kind of expected this as I thought the washer looked a bit worn when I removed it. Ordered a few now ones, which have rubber bonded around the copper to seal it. So that is what was missing from mine, and with disturbing it it started leaking.

So what else have I been doing on the cav. Well using it as my main jalopy over the (brutally cold and snowy) winter. I fear it has probably suffered a bit bodywork wise and other places so will need a good bit of attention very soon. I was driving up the road last night and detected a slight clonk from front left wheel. Likely a roll bar pin broke. I also heard a good clunk off of it tonight as I went over a speed bump. Not surprised as our roads are riddled with potholes here.

Other things I was thinking about is the emissions, I replaced the back box a few weeks ago as the old one, which I had welded the out pipe back on, was ill-fitting, with too big an exhaust clamp, and was swinging about and farting from the join. So I plummed and got the correct clamp and a backbox. I also plugged the little brown earth wire back in under the scuttle, that originally was done on the change over from auto to manual. I don't know why I disconnected this but plugged it back in.

I'll also need to give it a damn good service, oil is black and low. New plugs/filters and good flush with a new air filter to boot.

Will also need to get the washers going again. I had the steering wheel off as was looking at changing the ignition switch over. It's not broken but I think I have trauma from the time it failed on my old cavy lol so thought I would give it a look over. Whilst doing that a wee spring and plastic thing popped out from somewhere and ever since washers not been working. so need to go back in there and find out where that came from, think it might be something to do with washers not working.
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

The wash / wipe stalks are still readily available as they were used on many different models... Corsa-B & C, Astra-F & G, Vectra-B and Omega-B.

And not too expensive if it is not fitted with variable intermittent wiper and board computer functions.

Clonking - hopefully you are correct regarding anti-roll bar drop links (pendulums).

Another common source of clonking is the front strut top mounts that can crack and lead to excess up and down leg movement.
If the top mounts have died, then the gap between the suspension turret and the top strut cap will be in excess of 5mm ( 3/16" ).

The chronic roads and pot-holes are all over, wreaking havoc on all our poor delicate cars. I wonder how I haven't suffered severe damage to my wheels, as the roads are so bad.
Thank goodness that I don't have back issues - I can see the harsh roads causing a lot of pain and dismay for road users.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:The wash / wipe stalks are still readily available as they were used on many different models... Corsa-B & C, Astra-F & G, Vectra-B and Omega-B.

And not too expensive if it is not fitted with variable intermittent wiper and board computer functions.

Clonking - hopefully you are correct regarding anti-roll bar drop links (pendulums).

Another common source of clonking is the front strut top mounts that can crack and lead to excess up and down leg movement.
If the top mounts have died, then the gap between the suspension turret and the top strut cap will be in excess of 5mm ( 3/16" ).

The chronic roads and pot-holes are all over, wreaking havoc on all our poor delicate cars. I wonder how I haven't suffered severe damage to my wheels, as the roads are so bad.
Thank goodness that I don't have back issues - I can see the harsh roads causing a lot of pain and dismay for road users.
I think that taking steering wheel off done something to the washers somehow, I don't know but I reckon this spring might have been an Earth bridge perhaps. It doesn't make sense but it's the only thing I never put back in to cowl behind steering wheel. If not that I'm sure I'll find the issue as it started right after I removed steering.

The top mounts were recently replaced so it won't be that. I could hear the clonk coming from down below on the lft so reckon, as they re quite common to go, that it wlll be the link.

Don't get me started on the roads lol :)

How's your blue machine coming along Robsey? I've still got my 2 litre block lying there. I wont be doing a quick swap as I want to fix the bulkhead and engine area when I've got the engine out.
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

The blue beast is still testing my resolve.

Overall it is 95% sorted.
Just the emissions side of things that is fighting every effort to fix it.

But hey - I won't clutter your thread with my saga of frustration - ha ha.

Update..
Whilst walking the dogs, I got to thinking about your pin and spring milarkey.
I am 1000% certain that this is nothing to do with your wash / wipe function.
The spring would need to come from inside the stalk body for it to affect any switch functions, not from the steering wheel assembly.
All wiring for the wash / wipe is connected directly to the square-ish block at the base of the stalk, not to the steering column, wheel or squib.

If my hunch is right, the spring and pin is the indicator stalk reset mechanism.
When straightening up the steering, the pin pushes the stalk back to it's centre position.
So if anything, you should be having issues with the indicators not knocking themselves off in one of the directions.

Chances are, if the washers have stopped working, then it is a faulty pump motor, blocked pump filter or a dodgy wiring connection - so probably just a coincidence.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Now at a point where I am acquiring a new dizzy cap and rotor, as anyone reading may have noticed from other posts I made in the forum I had a bit of a questionable moment with part numbers and the type of ignition system on my motor.

I have so far done the following:
*Changed and flushed oil, replaced with new genuine oil filter and almost 5 litres of 10/40 drivetec oil
*Cleaned plugs. I have boxes of new GM plugs, I think they were changed not so long ago so not replacing them
*New GM 02 sensor
*Extensive check for any air leaks from exhaust and in engine bay
* Pulled rusty outrigger off from F/N/S, ordering a replacement soon. Other side looks ok
*General scout about under front end for rust etc. looks ok so far apart from outrigger
*Replaced rear box and new proper clamp

The biggie is the emissions. If all this work plus the new cap and rotor I have still to get doesn't cure it then I am going to swap the cat off the dippy as it looks in VGC. I did say dippy wasn't a parts car and it isn't, I would only use cat to check if that is the issue, and if it is, to get it through mot. I reckon the dippy one it is a replacement as it looks new and shiny, hopefully VX part as the guy that owned the car before was fastidious on replacing any parts with gen VX parts.

If that doesn't cure it well I have no clue!

I also plan to get 3 new hubcaps as I have one so far and want to make a set.

And I also need to check tyre wear, I think tracking needs done as we are worn on the inside edges a bit more than outside. Tyres close to legal limit on inside edge.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Changed air filter, rotor and cap today. I got 2 caps, one unbranded, well it doesn't say valeo on it but made in Italy so it might be valeo. Anyhow the bosch one ordered also arrived and this looks much more like mine inside, so plumbed both in, and changed the washer pump while at it. we now have scooshers and the car feels a little more responsive.

hopefully I can book in for an emissions test now and see how it goes. I only test drove the car along road, tonight but will get a better feel when I drive it tomorrow to work.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

It can only do the car good.
I had a pattern part distributor cap a few years ago.
I could hear the rotor hitting one of the contacts inside.
Fitted a proper cap and all was well again.

And Scooshers - I bet you have been desperate to fix the motor. The road salt usage in my area has been virtually constant since November, so lots of window washing has been needed.
(I carry a gallon of ready-mixed in my boot at all times due to the amount of gritting and resultant window scooshing going on)
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:It can only do the car good.
I had a pattern part distributor cap a few years ago.
I could hear the rotor hitting one of the contacts inside.
Fitted a proper cap and all was well again.

And Scooshers - I bet you have been desperate to fix the motor. The road salt usage in my area has been virtually constant since November, so lots of window washing has been needed.
(I carry a gallon of ready-mixed in my boot at all times due to the amount of gritting and resultant window scooshing going on)
Not had them all Winter and gritting being constant here too. I don't know how I done it, most of my journey is just into town. I guess if it was mway I would have been fixing them a bit quicker. I can see a brown coloured run off from the bottom plate of the motor so must be rusty inside. Think I'll pull apart just to see how it works inside.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

I've now found a big split in the corrugated air-house going to the top of the MULTEC carb. I will be sourcing and replacing this pipe, however it won't really have much of an effect on the running, or any potential emissions issue, than a split in a c20 hose as this uses air flow to determine fueling, the carb model doesn't. It wouldn't count as "unmetered air" as it is before the carb, after the carb, yes it would and would cause emission and running issues.

Although it won't do any harm, and will stop crap getting in there, as the hole is basically a bypass of the air filter without any filtration.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

I see you are trying to confuse us...

Multec is the Rochester Multec Single Point injector throttle body. Although to be fair, it is a glorified carb with metered fueling.

Indeed the Multec used Manifold Absolute Pressure using a sensor on the bulkhead.

As for carbs... I believe the 1.8 non-injection engines would use a Pierburg 2e3 carb.

A split in the main air hose can cause issues letting warm air into the induction system when cooler air is required.
Or cold air in when warm is required (cold start)
A bit of a lumpy hesitation may be felt.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:I see you are trying to confuse us...

Multec is the Rochester Multec Single Point injector throttle body. Although to be fair, it is a glorified carb with metered fueling.

Indeed the Multec used Manifold Absolute Pressure using a sensor on the bulkhead.

As for carbs... I believe the 1.8 non-injection engines would use a Pierburg 2e3 carb.

A split in the main air hose can cause issues letting warm air into the induction system when cooler air is required.
Or cold air in when warm is required (cold start)
A bit of a lumpy hesitation may be felt.
Never knew whether to call it a carb or an injection, a bit of both I guess. It's really just a carb shaped housing with an injector in it. I have ordered the bit from Germany, £34 bucks so not too bad. The original hose was very brittle feeling, especially around the jubilee clips where it was cracking, and the split in it was at the back where it is dark and you can't see it very well.

I guess if this was a 2.0 I wouldn't have got very far with a rip in it the size of this; it's about 2 inches cut.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Got stuck into the repair to the N/S front floor repair and the outrigger thingy.

So firstly here is the damage, the strengthener was removed, well, basically pulled off. The floor pan and a bit of the other chassis bit to the inner wheewell is toast. I drilled out some of the remaining spot welds for the outrigger although metal under it wasn't too good anyway so would have probably been as well just cutting it. Good job I didn't though because that little black wire for the indicator is in there along the floor and I would have sliced right through it.
Image

This is the finished job - only kidding - I was just getting the old metal off tonight and seeing how bad it was. Doesn't look to bad so in the meantime just taped up the hole into the cabin so water doesn't get in, and it has a lot so got newspapers in there soaking it all up.
Image

Next job was to remove the remnants of the anti-roll link pin. Cut through it and then had to cut through it again
Image

As you can see i managed to cut a bit into the anti-roll bar but not too bad.
Image

Just waiting on the panels from klokkerholm and I will then patch the floor and the bit behind lip for bottom of outer wheewell and then fit the outrigger.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Driving into work this morning i start to hear a bang bang bang rotational noise, thinking it might be a driveshaft i nurse it to work, luckily slow traffic. The noise is now a cruchy grindy noise more than a banging. Hope i can nurse it home lol.

I remember i had something like this before, got car up on jack, couldn't find anything and it never done it again, until now. My thinking was it was one of the cv joints going out of kilter making the joint sort of lock up a bit when rotating, then frees itself.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Mk3alan »

Best investigate! Once had a stone get lodged between the backplate and the disc, sounded absolutely terrible.
Luckily all it took to sort was a slight reverse and out it came!

Alan
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Mk3alan wrote:Best investigate! Once had a stone get lodged between the backplate and the disc, sounded absolutely terrible.
Luckily all it took to sort was a slight reverse and out it came!

Alan
I'm a complete tit, I had the wheel off the other night while doing work above and left it loose. I'd a look in behind the wheels with full lock, couldn't see anything, gave it a shoogle, nothing apparent then when driving up the road I thought ok I had the wheel off - DID I TIGHTEN IT :) Luckily I usually run 2 bolts in by hand so it was still on ok just starting to work itself loose. Grabbed bar out of boot and whacked em up back up, the other two bolts were nearly out, but the other ones were just a bit loose.

Reminds me of the time in my old cavy, someone tried to nick the slab GSI alloys but I had locking nuts fitted (well worth having them on alloys), they must of started loosening them and then noticed locking nuts, so left the normal nuts loose, I was travelling up to Aberdeen the next day and wondered what this slight clunking was on the whole way up. Decided that I'd just check and they were all loose but not hanging out.

I know when it happened, my mate was working on the local football ground where I was helping ground maintenance and I'd parked up in the main car park out the way, it was the day before I was travelling. Some wee scrotes must have popped out the bushes thinking they had a chance.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

A lucky find...
Would have been lots of tears and Anglo-Saxon phrases used if the wheels had fallen off.
Hopefully the stud threads are still okay.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

So right Robsey, a few choice words would have been said should the wheel have overtaken me!

Next steps in this repair were removal of the front facing wheelwell panel rust, as this was too rotten to be of any use to accommodate a repair. This was a repair I done some years ago but had since given up the ghost. The floor behind the strengthener was rotting away too so was letting water in. Got to try an dry the foam out too now.

So off with the metal and rust treat in behind it:
Image

Then make up a panel to fit that area:
Image

Offered up
Image

Then start welding it on:
Image

Tricky bit here was I had welded a section under where the strengthener goes but not far out enough out to be able to hold the outer reaches of the strengthener. So for this new panel I made up, I put a downward facing lip on it that would join to this other repair and complete the section that would then allow this to be welded on:

Image

The other tricky bit was I had to seal the joins in the floor panel repair before welding on the strengthener, I don't like sealing before welding near it but it had to be done, This is the panel I had to seal and primer before adding strengthener as otherwise wouldn't have got in behind it once on.:

Image

I also had this wee bit of work to do on inner wing:

Image

The welds are now all complete and sprayed with primer and wax, but I need more spray on black stuff so will get that ordered today. I've also not taken completed pictures but will once everything is given another coat of the black stuff.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

Are you using standard mild steel or Zintec?
I know Zintec was used on my car to further slow the rot monster.

Hat is off to you fella - I think being able to weld is a brilliant skill that I sadly lack.
Coming on nicely... and just in time for some nicer drier weather. :thumb
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:Are you using standard mild steel or Zintec?
I know Zintec was used on my car to further slow the rot monster.

Hat is off to you fella - I think being able to weld is a brilliant skill that I sadly lack.
Coming on nicely... and just in time for some nicer drier weather. :thumb
Thanks Robsey for the appreciation of the work! The steel is zinc coated, I can't remember if it is zintec or not but it has been lying in garage all winter and not a spot of the brown crust on it yet, so hats off to it'd effectiveness. I was trying not to buff the protective coating off too much just where I needed to weld so we will see how that holds out, the old mild steel was rotting away so hopefully a vast improvement.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Today's job was to get the rear nearside floor area and some other bits underneath welded & treated for rust. The repair to the Front outrigger bit is complete but just needs a few more coats of dynax spray as I ran out of it but got more on order.

Image

Rear of the N/S floor was pretty messy and had been patched up a couple of times to keep it going, so I cut the whole back section out and replaced it with a big bit of zinc coated metal. I've also got to fix one of the little drain plug areas on the back floor as well, but the panel is now welded in but not sealed up yet.

Image

Image

i've also got a bit on the subframe that was starting to hole, so have ground all the rust away and cut back to cleanish metal. I had this on my subframe on my diplomat too so it might be something you want to watch out for on your own subframe, it's usually just at the join where it comes along the middle and meets the outer longitudinal section, the rust isn't very apparent, it just looks like a slight raised section, but when you start hammering it starts breaking away.

Image

The next bit I found, which is also very common on the cavys, and well worth checking for is a rusty bit just under the back seats where the seat belt mounts too. Found this starting to break away as well on the N/S. Will need to check O/S too.

Image

So lots of bits still to fix, but the main big bits are more or less done. Will be a busy week trying to get all this done. Upside is I get to drive my omege V6 for a bit!
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Tonight was another search and destroy job on the rust. I'd finished the bit on the left hand back floor panel the other day so the pics are below.

I went round the whole back end electric wire-brushing the rusty bits and cutting out the really bad bits.

The first bad bit was the OSR chassis leg, decided to cut out a bit that was starting to get a bit perforated looking, and at the same time scrape the flakes of rust from inside the chassis leg and treat.

Image

The next bit was the box section behind the floor pan that is part of the bracing for the rear axle mount, not looking too clever either, the inside was a very crusty with big flakes of rust. I think that I wont get more than another year or two out of this before I need to consider a total overhaul of that bit. Getting worrying that it is strong enough. In saying that the rust has weakened some bits but hopefully a new plate will give it some extra strength and the treatment will delay rusting somewhat.

Image

Here is the images from the RNS floor repair:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Just needs a few more coats of dynax black wax spray and water leak test.
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