Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

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Vladanman
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Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Ok, I've been doing some servicing on my Cavalier in past 10-days. I've changed both front wheel bearings, front left Cv joint, both front shock absorbers, bought alu oil sump gasket. Repaired parking brake, took front breaking discs to metal work shop to shave off those edges, If you know what I mean :D . Still need to see what is causing engine to jerk a little. Here are some pictures :D

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A coffee break before removing oil sump
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Mk3alan
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Mk3alan »

Good work! I like the idea of skimming the discs - did you have to take much off?

Alan
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

I don't know how much really, but not much. I posted picture before/after.
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

If the engine feels "jerky" it could be a faulty clutch, but is more likely a faulty engine mount.

The most likely mount is the rear mount at the back of the gearbox. The rubber piece splits or separates from the metal bracket.

When taking up drive, the engine is allowed to rock back and forth a little giving a jerky feel.

With regard to skimming the discs.
This is useful if on a tight budget, but remember you are losing material from the contact faces and so reducing the life span of the discs.

So - ideal amount is enough to remove any wear lip, but to barely touch the actual disc faces.
The tricky bit is mounting the disc "true" in a lathe chuck to achieve minimum cutting waste and brake judder.
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

After trying my car with the air flow meter disconnected, I can say that this also makes the car very juddery and harder to drive.
But this would put the engine light on.
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Mk3alan
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Mk3alan »

Strange thing about discs is we never used to change them like we do now.
I would much prefer to fit a 'soft' pad and change them more regularly.

Alan
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Thanks for advice. It's not about thight budget. It's more about low mileage I cover with this car. 3000-4000per year max. On this old discs I think there is enough "meat". About jerky engine. I think it is electrical problem. CaR was turbo (c20let) and swapped with c20xe. And wiring wasn't done very professionally. Iac was wired to be opened all the time, with speaker wires :evil: obviosly some butcher worked on this car. When I bought the car, idle was around 1600rpm. It has all kinds of problems. When cabin fan is running and I turn on wipers, lights in a cabin are dimming. Also, there is no fuse clamp on slot 4. And slot 5 melted. Cabin fan eventually stopped working. I will see into it soon. Then, when I switch wiper lever/handle on second position, wiper will work for one and a half repetion. Also, wipers don't have pause on lever position 1. I've changed lever/handle, and it still does the same. I know, it's a mess :)
Idling is pretty steady but there are moments when it drop a little and then ecu correct it. There are also moments when car goes great. After around 2600rpm acceleration is steady and strong (I have installed irmscher powercap. It seems that car breathes better. Maybe it's just subjective feelling), but then in some other moments it doesn't go that well. I've changed spark plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm. Checked for vacuum leaks. There is no leaks. i will go to electrician to see is there any problem to be fixed. I like things to be done properly
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Hi guys. I was out of the country for about 6 months. I still have that jerking problem with my engine. I did paperclip diagnostic (engine off-only ignition) and it showed me 19 and 55. If I did it the right way.
19-crank sensor
55-faulty ecu
Is there any way I can test those two or I just need to replace them
Thanks
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

Looking back through the history of this topic, I would suspect wiring between the ECU and the Crank Angle Sensor.

The previous owner was described as a butcher, so it makes sense to think that he has damaged other wires in the injector loom.

I would strip out the wiring loom, and check all wires and connectors.

I question also if the 'butcher' modified the LET loom to fit the XE, as some wires may be in the wrong pin positions.

The Crank angle sensor can suffer from a few issues.
1 - The shielding on the cable can become damaged allowing external interference into the signal from the sensor.
2 - The connector on the top of the engine can become cracked or damaged.
3 - The sensor itself may be fitted out of line, or if it has a plastic body, it could be twisted or mis-shaped.

The best fix for a faulty crank angle sensor is to replace the old one with a new sensor with a metal body.

As for the ECU,
If it is wired up correctly...
Check for water damage in the foot-well side wall, as ECUs are generally very reliable, so damage is usually due to dirty or corroded pins caused by water leaking into the cabin.

But first - check that injector loom for condition, and compare it to the wiring diagram.
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Thank you Robsey. What can I say. When i did paperclip diagnostic, abs light was blinking, not the check engine light. So, yes, everything you've said makes a perfect sense. I must check entire loom and then sensor itself. Car was running like crap today. No power, no pull, like I'm driving 1.0 3 cilinder car. Thanks again
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

If you are happy working with car wiring, it is quite easy to check one wire at a time.

I think there will be 55 pins to the ECU, so allow 2 or 3 hours to check the wiring properly.

You may need to move the brake servo out of the way a little, to get the full ECU / Injector loom out through the bulk head.

If the ABS light flashed out the codes, it may help to check all the dash wiring aswell.

But I guess, one loom at a time.
Fix one loom so that you know it is correct, then move onto the next loom.

It sounds like the butcher had been very busy. :(
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Yeah he was busy allight. Here in Serbia every guy who has changed a light bulb ona a car is an expert. But on the other hand finding a good auto shop is like finding unicorn. I will probably get some help to check the loom. It's too much work for me. Especially because it has an extra LPG instalation. And also I don't have space to do it myself. Thanks again
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Hi guys. I have a small problem. After couple of hours of looking on web I didn't find the answer. Is there any difference in size between 4x100, and 5x110 brake discs on cavaliers. I mean is there 4x100 256mm and also 5x110 256mm. Or 5x110 are always 284mm? Maybe it is stupid question but I heard somewhere that all turbo 4x4 cavaliers had bigger discs. Also bigger wheel bearings etc, front and back. I want to buy front and rear pads, and in shops I am asked about engine, so I need to know what to say. Because my cavalier originally is 4x4 turbo but engine was swapped from c20let to c20xe. I hope you understand my question. Or can you tell me is there any site where I can find out part number. Maybe it is best solution when I wanna buy part. To tell them part number. Thanks!

Found it! :D
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

If you are talking original opel part numbers, then the usual website to look on is Ecat24. The home page is in French, but there are other language options.

http://ecat24.com/opel/catalog/types/1/39/
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Thanks. I've found them on Euro spares https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts-catalog. The car was at the mechanic shop yesterday and today. Crank sensor is changed along with 13 other parts. I don't know names of all of them in English :D front and rear braking pads, rear brake rotors, pads for a handbrake, rear shocks and coil springs, fuel and oil filter, and ruber covers for Cv joint if it is called like that. That jolting while driving after replacing crank sensor is almost gone. Looks like car has more power, but I still feel that there must be a little more of power. I did test drive an hour ago, and I've noticed that at some moments, when I am changing gear, revs don't drop a fast as they should have. In some moments they even stay at 2000rpm (when I press clutch pedal to change a gear). And also when I lift my foot of the throttle, while in gear, it looks like 4-5 seconds pass before engine deceleration begin. This was rare thing before changing crank sensor. Now it happened 2-3 times in an hour of test drive. Any thoughts? :D
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

Two items to check...

1 - Is there any 'free movement'in the throttle cable?
The cable should not be tight.
The linkage should move freely and quickly return to the closed position when released.

2 - Wiring problems to the idle control valve.

3 - Oily, clogged or leaking breather pipes on the idle control valve.

4 - Are you still getting the engine light staying on.?
If you have sorted all the sensors, the engine light should go off a few seconds after the engine is started.

If the light is still on, then check the wires to the ECU that relate to the fault code that is being reported by the engine light.

If all the sensors are okay, the throttle moves freely.....
Then it has to be a wiring or earthing issue.
We have already said a few times, that the wiring is a total horror story.
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

I forgot to check Tps sensor. I will check it, and if needed, clean it tomorrow. I hope it is something simple like that :D Thanks Robsey, U are The Man :thumb
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Robsey
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Robsey »

I feel it is the cable itself, rather than the sensor. Or the throttle linkage.

If it is too tight or it is not moving freely, then it could cause the revs to stay high.

But - it is good to check the sensor wiring too. I am thinking that the throttle position sensor is used more when the engine is cold, so if this is faulty - it should cause poor idle or rev control when the engine is cold. (But I could be wrong).

Another thought - check all you breather pipes and air-intake trunking for leaks, as an air leak can cause similar problems.

Finally - the last problem I had was loose nuts / bolts holding the inlet and exhaust manifolds on. I had a few loose nuts, that caused all sorts of fun with the engine emissions and odd idling.
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Vladanman
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Re: Vectra A-Cavalier work in progress

Post by Vladanman »

Throttle cable and linkage are checked. Breather pipes too. Everything is in order. I've cleaned the idle control valve and that seem to have resolved the problem with jerking engine. Oh man, the engine is almost reborn. Engine runs like crazy. Is that even possible that with cleaning of icv I get this result? It pulls in every gear. I have irmscher power cap and when rpm reach around 3500, it's like little turbo kicks in. Maybe it is just my subjective feeling, but finally I am satsfied with how car goes. But it still has idle fluctuation. So I think its tps. I will try to clean it beacuse it is bosch sensor. I can buy new one, but it is some Topran manufacturer. I hope cleaning will resolve the problem. But anyway new Topran tps cost less then 10euros
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