1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

[humbucker]

Now then, where can I find a nice man with a Tech 1 unit?
...to turn up the revs to 800 to 850 rpm.
Could do my fuel computer whilst they are at it - ha ha

shame you're not 'around the corner' or you know i'd gladly help out!

[planetc]

Checked the tacho against my old halfords Equus analogue gauge.

Reading aprox 650 rpm

Well that may well be a good reason for the lack of oil circulation pressure.

Now then, where can I find a nice man with a Tech 1 unit?
...to turn up the revs to 800 to 850 rpm.
Could do my fuel computer whilst they are at it - ha ha

New Digi dash arrived too - woo hoo. will take a look at it when I get home later.

That sounds like a good enough reason for the light coming on, it must be almost stalling.

[Envoy CDX]

Checked the tacho against my old halfords Equus analogue gauge.

Reading aprox 650 rpm

Well that may well be a good reason for the lack of oil circulation pressure.

Now then, where can I find a nice man with a Tech 1 unit?
...to turn up the revs to 800 to 850 rpm.
Could do my fuel computer whilst they are at it - ha ha

New Digi dash arrived too - woo hoo. will take a look at it when I get home later.

That sounds like a good enough reason for the light coming on, it must be almost stalling.

Thats really low :/ hope its something simples to sort

[humbucker]

New Digi dash arrived too - woo hoo. will take a look at it when I get home later.

is it the round type again? what has been the problem with the old digidash (apologies if you've already explained this, i did scour the thread but couldnt see any explanation)

[btcctroy]

are you ure all your breathers are correct. it will idle like a bag of poo otherwise

[Robsey]

That sounds like a good enough reason for the light coming on, it must be almost stalling.

That's what I thought... and that was AFTER I had increased the revs via the throttle stop screw.

Thats really low :/ hope its something simples to sort

According to Paul, it has to be done via Tech 1 ... some part of adjusting the parameters within the ECU.

I had a look with Op-com, but as like all other ALDL (10 pin) diagnostic socket vauxhalls, it only displays Alpha code, serial number, program number and it will let me allegedly check DTC's - might try this out on sunday... pull a sensor, and then see if the Op-com can see it.

is it the round type again? what has been the problem with the old digidash (apologies if you've already explained this, i did scour the thread but couldnt see any explanation)

Couldn't see without dismantling it just yet.. The Astra display is quite heavily smoked. I am sure it is the quadrant style tachometer, although the torque-tick does look funkier

I am / was under the impression that the circuit board for the gauge side of the display was beginning to break down, possibly a faulty resister or dirty solder joint - which potentially gets worse when the PCB gets warm.
An increase in resistance could pull some of the values on the gauges down a bit.

This may no longer be the case if the analogue tachometer is correct - it is about 15 to 20 yrs old..
I operated the throttle cable carefully, and the displayed 800 rpm did sound a whole lot sweeter.

So the newer Digi Dash may be being kept as a spare... also has matched transducer and tell-tale bulb holders.

Pity you aren't in the Manchester area Dan, could do with borrowing your Tech 1 - tee hee. Have you managed to suss much out with it yet?

No worries.. I will have to see if I can do Billing next year
We can then discuss some of my crazy modifications

Envoy CDX has been telling me to go for the last two years... and I think wifey will be interested too

I have checked all the breathers a few times. Can have another look though on sunday hopefully.. do you mean the big bore breathers, or the finer vacuum and tank vent valve pipes.? Every time I look at the car, I find something else.. or learn something else.


What has been scarey, is that despite averaging about 32 to 35 mpg around town.. it is scarey how far £10 doesn't go... about 50 odd miles to a tenner - ouch

[btcctroy]

20pound does 60 miles in my v6

check the finer vacumm pipes

[Robsey]

New Digi dash arrived too - woo hoo. will take a look at it when I get home later.

is it the round type again?

Right dismantled the Digi Panel tonight, so that I can swap the gubbins from the new panel into the modified casing for the old panel.

And although I was sure the seller said it was a curve panel, it is actually the later "Torque Tick" panel.

What is odd though, is that the gauge does not have an EML / MIL / engine tell tale light on the bottom panel... it is blacked out on this one.

Wasn't aware that they did an Astra GTE without injection.
Not a problem for me, as I will be keeping my existing white plastic bulb holder panel.

It also has a different speed pulse transducer (gearbox sender), but I think that both the one fitted (Code AE) and this newer one (Code AH) will suit either digi dash panel.

[planetc]

Early gtes had jetronic systems, which iirc don't have an eml

[Envoy CDX]

Early gtes had jetronic systems, which iirc don't have an eml

Correct, early GTE's ran the 1.8

[Robsey]

Well minor update..

Fitted the newer Digi Dash today... I do prefer this version.
Also quite odd to see the original colours after all this time.

Incidentally, I read the Astra Owners Manual last night. I have a full user pack, which I bought years ago for info about the Digi-dash.
Anyway, it says somethings on the lines of...

"The oil light may flash or flicker at idle when the oil is at full running temperature. This is not a problem, as long as the light goes out as soon as you come off idle."

Virtually the same wording that PlanetC (Paul) has been telling me for six months..

So here it is this evening.. note the torque tick rev counter / tacho

Also today, I looked at my Sat-Nav / Radio display as the top half has been going off.

So I took it from my central dash panel and split theinternal gubbins from the casing.

All the solder joints and components looked in perfect condition...
But Idid notice that one of the two ribbon cables to the screen was quite loose.
I rechecked all connectors, and then re-fitted them all, including the ribbon connectors and clamp bars.

Re-assembled the display and refitted to the central dash panel..
Turned on, and we have a full display screen - woohoo

So - forthcoming plans..
I still have a slow idle, so I am going to replace the inlet manifold gasket.
I have checked all vacuum and breather hoses / pipes with no blockages or leaks being evident.

Also the exhaust is slightly noisey, so I am going to replace the gasket from the manifold to down pipe flange, and then the donut seal ring beteween the front pipe and the cat-pipe. Also I do not have a front pipe to engine support strap, so I am going to order one of these too.
M8 nuts and bolts aren't an issue as we have these by the dozen at work.

[Envoy CDX]

Wahoo!!!! Good news Rob!

[planetc]

[Robsey]

As people often tell me..

No pictures mean it didn't happen, so I took some nice pics whilst I was parked on a leafy side street.

So, the Cav in a leafy lane

and the dash all repaired / replaced

Saying that though, I have noticed a general rasping noise from the engine (cam-belt end)... so I thought aye-aye what do we have here.

I took off the alternater drive belt, to rule out the alternater, power steering pump and belt tensioner ...
and the rasping continued..

So from listening to the engine carefully, I believe it may be the water pump.

The one in my 1.8 engine is only 8 months old, and so I will be swapping this over at the weekend. before any of the bearings have a chance to jam / seize and snap the timing belt.

I also have the timing belt tensioner, which has only been on for approx 20,000 miles. So I will swap this over whilst the belt is off... just need to get a new pump seal (O Ring).

I removed the 1.8 tensioner this evening... well about 11pm.
I could only get 2 of the cap head bolts off from the water pump flange

I will have to drill out the third bolt tomorrow morning.. then take the pump to work for a good check over and clean.

[Envoy CDX]

I also have the timing belt tensioner, which has only been on for approx 20,000 miles. So I will swap this over whilst the belt is off... just need to get a new pump seal (O Ring).

I removed the 1.8 tensioner this evening... well about 11pm.
I could only get 2 of the cap head bolts off from the water pump flange

I will have to drill out the third bolt tomorrow morning.. then take the pump to work for a good check over and clean.

Your mental, but that good sort of mental
Fallen for the cav again yet then?

[Robsey]

Your mental, but that good sort of mental
Fallen for the cav again yet then?

I will take that as a compliment -

Just glad I haven't got rid of the NZ yet
Slowly stripping bits of it, like the thermostat housing, water pump, exhaust front pipe support strap bolt, HT lead brackets from the cam housing cover.

Yeah, I really love the Cav , more than the wife's Vectra-C.

The extra 25 horses make all the difference between the 1.8 SPi and the 2.0 MPi

[Envoy CDX]

Your mental, but that good sort of mental
Fallen for the cav again yet then?

I will take that as a compliment -

Just glad I haven't got rid of the NZ yet
Slowly stripping bits of it, like the thermostat housing, water pump, exhaust front pipe support strap bolt, HT lead brackets from the cam housing cover.

Yeah, I really love the Cav , more than the wife's Vectra-C.

The extra 25 horses make all the difference between the 1.8 SPi and the 2.0 MPi

That was the implication Rob!
Yeah, the NZ will probably serve up some more parts before its considered dead and scrap now! lol.

And yup, an extra 25 horsies tend to make you grin a bit more

[btcctroy]

how is the old cav doing pal. is it getting better

i should pop up

[Robsey]

Yup the Cav is fine

Swapped the water pump and timing belt auto-tensioner for those from the NZ.

The car is sweet and quiet now

Not posted up over the weekend, as my telephone socket was corroded and causing lots of static noise... this effectively shut down my tinter-web connection.
Fixed it last night, so we are now back up and running

Still got the tank and brake cables to sort... when the wife doesn't bugger up my weekends.

[Envoy CDX]

Still got the tank and brake cables to sort... when the wife doesn't bugger up my weekends.

Claim your doing some paperwork out of hours as your behind and do them at work

[Alexia]

Crikey you've done loads of work on your car! How long has it taken you.

Hoping that's the kind of project my late Grandpa's cavalier could be.

[Robsey]

Crikey you've done loads of work on your car! How long has it taken you.

Seems like forever

Well, a lot of it is down to fitting things in with my rather heavy going life style.. all work and no play.

But with money and time, it can be done within a much quicker time scale.

My car is one of those Mega-milers, and I think at least 180 thousand of those miles were mine

Allowing for these restrictions, I would say that I have probably spent no more than 3 weeks all in over the last two years..

The Original Digi-Dash conversion was about a day - but then I am really anal about soldering and sleeving my joints..

The CD70 Sat Nav was probably a full day, the hacking of the dash was done in a very ad-hoc style, but one afternoon I simply took a hacksaw to my centre section, until my double din unit would go in.

The one-touch sunroof and the delay bug-eye map lights, well about three hours work.

Slower if you don't know how your trims come apart..I'm a bit of a veteran at this .

The engine - rebuild.. had it all gone to plan is about a weekends work.

Same with the engine swap.. apart from silly seals and gasket problems.
(A straight like for like swap would take only about 3 hours).

Fuel lines, were a couple of hours to fit - sriguy made these for me, so that saved some time I just had to fit them.

The tank and hand-brake work should be do-able in a day - when I get one full day free

I have done several timing belt swaps over the years, so the basic 8 valve engines only take me about 40 mins... plus a few extra minutes to get photo's of course
I change my belts every 32,000 miles, and water pumps and tensioners every 64,000 miles.

I don't look after my Cav to be honest, but it still keeps going, regardless what I throw at it.

Gary (Envoy CDX) wants me to do an electric heated door mirror conversion, and also transplant the window switches into the door handles.. all easy to do, but not high priorities on my list.

I do like to faff with the Cav electrics, but I am trying to stick to the important stuff first.


So in answer to how long it has taken me to do all I have done on the Cav...

well ........ Erm 16 years roughly

[Robsey]

More bits fitted today..

I noticed yesterday that my rear exhaust rubber had split.
So I bought a new one from Halfords this morning for £1.59.

Decided that as the car-park was virtually deserted, that I would fit it there and then.

Went to take the old one off, but it had already fallen off, so simply slipped the new one and bent the retainer tang into place... another job ticked off the list.

Then at about 2:30pm, I recieved 2 parcels...

The first was the last of a batch of gaskets which I had ordered, to ensure that the induction and exhaust systems were air-tight.
The gasket received today was the inlet manifold gasket.

I received 3 other exhaust related parts yesterday.

1) Manifold to down pipe gasket
2) Down-pipe to engine "suspension bracket"
3) Down-pipe to cat-pipe do-nut seal.

I plan to fit these when I finally get round to doing my fuel tank which is weeping from a rear welded seam... oh and hand-brake cables.

Anyway returning back to today's second parcel... it was my parts from Leon (Angryman).
An Air Flow Meter in immacculate condition and a spare ignition coil.

I fitted the Air flow meter, which worked perfectly.

So, it is my belief that my slow idle is purely down to the current programming of the ECU. - Yes, I know Paul (PlanetC) has been telling me that for a month or so, but I was just making sure that I had covered all fuelling and possible induction leak sites first.

I now need to find someone with Tech 1 in or around Manchester...
the nearest I know is midpoint garage in Northwich.... 30 odd miles away,
I would prefer someone a bit nearer to home.

I have read comments about resetting or setting up the throttle body etc.
Can this be done on an NE?

Everything seems to be fitted correctly, the throttle body and Idle control valve and the AFM flap have all been fully cleaned with carb cleaner spray and lubed where necessary with 3-in-1 oil.

As a side thought....

I swapped my Octane plug around.

Normally set at 95, so I thought I would try the flip-side value of 91.
The fuel economy readings shown on the fuel computer appeared slightly better by between 3 and 5 mpg, however the car was slighty less responsive when pulling away from stand-still.

When cruising along, the car was just as keen - pulled like a train
and no pinking when ascending the hill to my house.

I did expect some pinking, as the 91 ron setting is slightly advanced timing-wise compared to the 95 ron setting.

Anyway, I decided that I would leave the car at it's intended setting, and so flipped the Octane plug back over to the 95 ron side.

So that is all the playing for this week. - I am just hoping that Sunday 10th September will be when the tank, and brake cables are fitted.

I may throw the exhaust gaskets on one evening in the week - time permitting.

[Robsey]

Surprised that none of the observant ones amongst you didn't correct me..

of course the 11th is a Sunday. (Not the 10th )

So - Hopefully, tank, brake cables and exhaust seals will be done then.
Along with a proposed mini-meet.

[Envoy CDX]

Surprised that none of the observant ones amongst you didn't correct me..

of course the 11th is a Sunday. (Not the 10th )

So - Hopefully, tank, brake cables and exhaust seals will be done then.
Along with a proposed mini-meet.

I don't like to make people feel silly

Looking forward to seeing the progression