James' 2.0 8v Diplomat

[James McGrath]

Just did a paper clip test (I'm doing it on all of my Cavs just in case) and it's come up with code 13. So I'll be needing a new O2 sensor then I guess?

[btcctroy]

Humbucker I Hope you don't hoard biscuits in the same way. I'd be most upset lol

[btcctroy]

Just did a paper clip test (I'm doing it on all of my Cavs just in case) and it's come up with code 13. So I'll be needing a new O2 sensor then I guess?

James make sure you disconnect the battery then drive it about and check for codes. codes are stored for 99 ignition switch on offs

[James McGrath]

James make sure you disconnect the battery then drive it about and check for codes. codes are stored for 99 ignition switch on offs

It's ok now. It was a false alarm. Turns out I was doing it wrong; without the engine on.

With my LS you do it with the engine off like the ecotec, so I assumed it was the same on the C20NE as well being both 8v.



Anyway I decided to give the Diplomat a bit of attention today. I gave it a good wash down and clay bar in preparation for a polish and wax tomorrow.

It was the first time I've done it and probably the first time since it left the factory.

And dam it was filthy... microscopically filthy!

I swear I did this just after washing it, the car was perfectly clean and I used plenty of lubricant:

This was removed rubbing down a small section of the roof:



And this is the crud removed from a small area down below the door strips:



I know some of that last one was tar spots (which I have now removed) but still disgusting. The car has probably spent its entire life sitting next to a coal fired power station!
When I did my LS for the first time the dirt was not even noticeable.

[James McGrath]

I finished the detailing yesterday. It looks so much better now all the small scratches and swirls have been removed and the plastics blackened up.

Just needs a waxing now.

[Envoy CDX]

I like that, I like it a lot.

[humbucker]

It does look smart James, nice one.

[James McGrath]

Thanks guys.

It was quite bad before; the paintwork just felt like sandpaper.

It still has plenty of faults but at least it is nice and smooth.

[James McGrath]

I'm thinking of doing a few subtle modifications. Not right away, but maybe in a year or so once my insurance goes down a little further.

Mainly thinking of upgrading the engine to 20SEH spec.

As far as I know the C20NE and 20SEH are identical apart from ECU, camshaft, catalytic converter and higher compression pistons.

I think I can do all the work myself apart from the pistons. So I was wondering how the engine would run with the SEH cam and ECU but without the pistons.

Would it run at all even?

For now though I'm going to put standard springs back on. I'll keep the lowering springs to put back on at a later date, Maybe with some uprated shocks as the ride is excessively bouncy on standard shocks.

[planetc]

Probably not worth the money and effort in my opinion James.

[James McGrath]

Probably not worth the money and effort in my opinion James.

Most hobbies aren't, but it's something to put my mind to.

I don't want to go any further than SEH spec. I'll keep the standard exhaust and intake.

[Gray16v]

Just get a 20SEH engine and ditch the CAT

[James McGrath]

Just droped her off to have the cracked windscreen and headlining sorted out.

The windscreen removal van was already there at the body shop and before I'd had a chance to say goodbye they had already taken the screen out!

There was a fair bit of rust around the windscreen frame but nothing too bad, should all be repaired and painted ready for the headlining people to do their work tomorrow. I even managed to get the sprayer to spray my new wing mirror casings at the same time!

Tomorrow the reupholstered headlining will be put back and finally a new windscreen fitted.

Fingers crossed it'll be all ready for the costal run on Sunday!

It’s been a real pain to get this all arranged. Partly due to the fact that you can only get the headlining board out of a saloon Cav if you remove the windscreen and the need for a welder and sprayer to sort the rust out around the windscreen frame at the same time.

Anyway, no pics for now, but I have some somewhere at home that I’ll dig out later when the work is done and I can post the whole story in one go.

[Colorado]

its worth doing even if its a logistical nightmare. well done

[James McGrath]

Got the old girl back today, and what a transformation it makes!

I'm not ashamed to give people lifts in it now!

Photos!!

Before:

Why do I always forget to take some before photos??
Anyway look on page 1 to see what the headliner was like before.

After:














The car's a bit dirty at the moment, but I won't be able to wash it for a few days as I'm told the glue they used on window needs 3 days to dry properly and car shampoo can isn't good for it.

Top quality workmanship on the headliner, I can't fault it. They used a soft cotton fabric and it's much nicer material than the original.

The car just feels much nicer now.

[humbucker]

That's great James, I didn't realise you were getting a brand new headlining, thought they were just cleaning and replacing the old one as the windscreen was going in. Look forward to seeing this on Sunday.

[James McGrath]

That's great James, I didn't realise you were getting a brand new headlining, thought they were just cleaning and replacing the old one as the windscreen was going in. Look forward to seeing this on Sunday.

Thanks.

The old one had shrunk and the material was all dirty anyway. Easier just to get it completely reupholstered.

Bit of a logistical pain in the rear, but worth it.

It had to be dropped of at the body shop where the windscreen man came and removed the windscreen. Then the necessary welding and painting took place. From there it was driven, without a windscreen, over to the upholsterers where the headlining was replaced. Then the windscreen company sent another man to put a new windscreen in.

Hideously expensive too.

[James McGrath]

Does anyone know what this pipe is for?



Only I've just noticed it's split right down the side:

[5853moore]

looks good mate just out of interest how much did you pay to have the rust sorted out round the windowscreen as my SRI has got some minor rust that will need sorting in the future and just want a rough idea how much it will cost?

[DiplomaXE]

blue pipe goes to the recirculation capsule for the recirc button. the hose elbow needs fixing as it's teed' into the fuel pressure regulator.

[James McGrath]

looks good mate just out of interest how much did you pay to have the rust sorted out round the windowscreen as my SRI has got some minor rust that will need sorting in the future and just want a rough idea how much it will cost?

The exact cost is a bit vague as I had the windscreen and the headlining replaced at the same time.

To get all the rust sorted and painted it cost £144 but that does not include the price of removing and fitting the windscreen. It was quite bad on here though and that price included some welding that needed doing along the bottom too.

blue pipe goes to the recirculation capsule for the recirc button. the hose elbow needs fixing as it's teed' into the fuel pressure regulator.

Thanks, I'll get it sorted as soon as I can then.

[James McGrath]

The heater motor resistor blew today. I got quite worried as there was a puff of smoke from the dashboard and an electrical burning smell as soon as I started her up.

I checked all the electrics and the only thing that isn't working is the heater motor which no longer works on the lowest speed setting.

The part only lasted a year, that's what you get when you buy non genuine I suppose.

[planetc]

Could it be that the motor is a bit sticky and was on low when started? Old heater motors are usually best run on high for the first few seconds of the day.

[DiplomaXE]

heater fan motors - it's always the low speed winding on the resistor that goes!
If you haven't been in there yet, take the rubber seal and the scuttle panel off, unclip the cover over the motor, remove the 2 screws holding the motor down, disconnect the 2 supply wires, resistor and lift the motor out. lube up the 2 bearings, one of which is behind the fan, refit it all, check the thermal fuse on the resistor pack, make sure its well in the airflow, not flopping about. they get very hot very quickly so the advice to whizz it up on full speed and not leave it on a low speed is good advice.
just been here on my Dippy fitted a new motor and resistor from the spares day,
also just done a corsa c with no fan at all which had it's resistor fall out of the airflow, blowing the thermal fuse, the motor was found to be open circuit as it was U/S for so long, so changed that too, all good now.

You have probably found already there is about 4 sorts of resistor for them too

[Cavalier342]

Interesting points you guys make about the heater motors running on full speed etc, I sometimes find they run better on the lower speeds after a brief full speed run, I thought it was just me, but now you mention it, it makes sense...