my gsi work to date

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bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Thanks robsey, I'm going to go out n replace the filter,I renewed all the fuel pipes and the one going to the throttle body few years ago ,dont think it would have anything to do with it but the battery is also not the correct ampage, the battery didn't have much power in it ,I got a brandnew bigger one al put that in too ,also been running it on normal unleaded
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

Running on unleaded or super should not make a difference regarding fuel starvation.

Tired fuel pump, pressure regulator or collapsed filter would...
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Thanksyou robsey, a put that filter on took it out and it's been ok ,fingers crossed, cheerz for advice mate
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

You are most welcome,
Although you had already decided to do the filter anyway.
:thumb
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Robsey, you know when the front exhaust manifold has been welded up and is blowing again ,could I someone to weld a 2to 3" collar round it ,its about a 1" or 2 before the flange the cracking welds,
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

I have had manifolds welded before.
I personally have never welded cast iron...
A job for the experts in my opinion.

Obviously the act of welding causes the manifold to heat very quickly.
But techniques between different engineers mean that some people weld at very high temperatures, others at a slightly lower better controlled temperature.

So the best welds are those done as cool as possible, but still able to create a good weld penetration.

Also gentle slow cooling afterwards is very important.

High temperature welding and quick cooling will often lead to stress fractures.

A collar could be welded over the crack site, but this may simply move the weak spot further along the manifold.

So the true answer is,
If the previous welder caused stress fractures to develop, then try a different welder.
I am tempted to say go for one of your really old experienced welders.
There isn't much that they shouldn't know about welding cast iron properly.
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Cheers for the advice got a collar welded round the fracture got a good welder to do it ,cheers
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

My brake light pedal switch is faulty, has it got to be a cavalier switch or does other ones do same job ,where can I get one from if anyone knows ,cheers
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

It should be the same as a Vectra-B brake switch.
Or even Astra-G.

This one :)

https://www.gsfcarparts.com/931sa0050?a ... ooQAvD_BwE

It also fits the clutch pedal if you are "retro fitting" the Vectra / Omega cruise control.
(Cavalier but not Calibra).
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Thank robsey, see if I can source one ,when I put my hand up where pedal is and give it a wriggle it works then wont work
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

It could be a worn switch.
It is just a bayonet fitting,
So twist 1/4 turn anti-clockwise and pull out.

The connector pins are glorified spades, so good simple old wiring.

Pull the centre pin of the switch out....
It will click a few times.
Then refit it, and test the switch operation.
The brake pedal will push the pin back to thr correct location.

The switches are adjustable / self adjusting.
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Thanks robsey ,let you know if I get one ,ones on Ebay are only showing 2 pins for cavalier
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

read my updated post for setting up / adjusting.

It depends on the manufacturer.
Usuall 2 or 3 pins.
There is often a redundant black / green wire linking two pins on the socket.
(Mine has this).

You only need two pins.
Black wire for 12 volts from fuse.
Black / Yellow for switched voltage to brake lights.
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Ok robsey, see if I can source one ,thanks mate
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

Try re-setting up the operating switch plunger first, in case it has simply been pushed in too far.

If it works, you have a free fix :thumb
My favourite price. :D
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

I ended up getting a new switch as you mentioned robsey, that's it fixed,.. now my heater are not working, I checked the fuse but it's ok, there was a wee squealing sound coming from heater when I put the blowers on ,now there is nothing at all ,any ideas ,new motor if so is it easy enough to replace
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

Are all the mk3 cavalier motor heaters the same
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

Here is my thread on fixing the blower motor.

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=16697

If it is completely dead then it is likely that the fan bearings are getting dry - which blows the thermal fuse on the resistor pack.

The best fix is a new motor and a resistor pack.
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

There is nothing at all ,where could I source one from you reckon ebay ,
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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

The motor itself should be the same for most Cavalier models - if it comes with just two wires with female spade connectors.

Where differences come in, is-
1 - where the listing specifies an engine size / type. Such as C25XE etc.

2 - where the motor is listed as with or without air conditioning.

So it is important to check whether the motor comes with or without the resistor pack.

But other than that...
yes you can try ebay,

Or you can try eurocar parts who are a fair bit dearer,
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ilovedmymantas
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by ilovedmymantas »

Definitely ebay.
The bigger sellers are wanting well over 100 quid :o It's a pity yours isn't aircon, the place I got mine has one left at £43!

That's got me thinking, could fitting the aircon one be an upgrade, the resistor pack is further from the heat source, or is it not that simple :scratch
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina " ;)

1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev

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Robsey
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by Robsey »

The fan is a cooling source, not aheat source - lol

The heat source is the resistors themselves dissipating electrical energy in the form of heat to reduce the high electrical current used to drive the motors.

So the resistor packs will never be far from the heat source - hence why the thermal fuse is piggy-backed onto the body of the resistor pack itself.

The best place for the resistor pack is in the cooling air-flow drawn-in through the scuttle area by the blower motor.

The air-con blower motors have a different connector plug compared to the non-aircon units.

Fans with just the two wires and spade terminals would need a separate resistor pack or thermal fuse ordering to suit your car.
(As your thermal fuse will have burnt out)
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btcctroy
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by btcctroy »

cheaper still take a nice cuppa with you to warm up, you wont go half wrong
bigsilver
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by bigsilver »

I've managed to get a hold of a guy who has one for 25 ,once I get it al keep you updated, thanks for all your help ,very much appreciated
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btcctroy
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Re: my gsi work to date

Post by btcctroy »

no problem glad to help :lol: :lol: :lol:
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