Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Got that heater in working a treat ,for a wee while I've noticed the battery light on can just barely see it ,see it a bit more when I put heater or demister on ,do you think the alternator could be on it's way out ,I've checked belt which is tight also new battery in it

Does anyone know the amps on a cavalier 2.0 alternator not sure if its 100amps

bigsilver wrote:Got that heater in working a treat ,for a wee while I've noticed the battery light on can just barely see it ,see it a bit more when I put heater or demister on ,do you think the alternator could be on it's way out ,I've checked belt which is tight also new battery in it

Years ago I've had this with glazed up pulleys, simply roughen them up slightly with a bit of emery paper. It may cure the problem.

I would check the wiring.
25 + year old wiring may need a freshen up.

By that I mean, clean up all the connectors, screws and nuts on -

the alternator,
Big fat red wire between alternaor, starter and battery positive post.

the starter motor,
Again the fat red wire connection.

the battery

and your earth tags.
From bell housing to inner wing / battery negative post,
And inner wing to negative battery post.

If the charge light still glows, it possibly indicates that the alternator is not providing enough charge.

The way to verify this is to check battery voltage with the engine running.
You need to have between 13.9 and 14.5 volts across the battery posts.

Less than 13.5 volts, and your alternator is getting weak.

Typical amps of the alternator is about 65 to 70 amps for 1.8 and 2.0 engines.

Just checked your POC list.
Factory 'Production Options Codes' and it gives -
"K73 - Alternator, 70 Amp."

I hit a bit of a problem when I looked back at your earlier posts for some information.

Every picture link that showed as from photobucket now just duplicates the post, even with the vpn off, Is it just me ?

ilovedmymantas wrote:I hit a bit of a problem when I looked back at your earlier posts for some information.

Every picture link that showed as from photobucket now just duplicates the post, even with the vpn off, Is it just me ?

All the old photobucket and youtube links are broken. The links just return you back to the same post.
So no, it is not just you.

Robsey wrote:All the old photobucket and youtube links are broken. The links just return you back to the same post.
So no, it is not just you.

Hadn't noticed that before, usually it's a faded photo with a watermark that I can get the gist of.
it's just a pity the company went along the ransom route

bigsilver wrote:Does anyone know the amps on a cavalier 2.0 alternator not sure if its 100amps

I'm a belt'n'braces person so this might seem like overkill but I've had it bookmarked for ages because the price is really good.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-CAV ... 1438.l2649

I must admit I did a very dangerous thing, I gained a little knowledge, from here
https://www.lifewire.com/high-amp-alter ... age-534775
I've no intention of fitting a big amp but i do like the idea of having more leeway for future projects, eg lighting or heated seats. It may never happen but I can dream.....

There are a whole range of alternators.
Delco-Remy 55 amp,
Bosch 55 amp,
Delco-Remy 70 amp,
Bosch 70 amp,
Bosch 90 amp,
Delco-Remy 100 amp,
Bosch 100 amp,
Bosch 120 amp.

As for batteries...
I would fit the biggest (rating) battery you can find.
The options are:-
36 amp,
44 amp,
55 amp,
60 amp,
66 amp,
70 amp,
72 amp (opel only),
85 amp (opel only)

The generic batteries are -
"063" which is standard duty and
"075" for heavy duty.

I run a 70 amp alternator and an 065 battery on my C20NE.

Oddly the 120 amp alternator is listed as suitable for all engine sizes, including the 1.4 carb models.
Although I would definately use a heavy duty battery for any alternator rated 70 amps or more.

Thanks for all the information robsey and company, was in hospital that's reason for not getting bk to you ,I'm going to get in and about cleaning all connectors ,so is it a 70amp for mine

I hope you are now fighting-fit after you hospitalisation.
Hopefully nothing too serious.

70 amp should be plenty, unless you drive a huge amplifier and sub-woofers etc, that suck the juice out of your battery.

Oh -and fit an 075 battery.

Used to own a rover 216, the battery/alternator was going on it and I was driving up the road thinking I've got enough juice here to get up the hill to house, on my way round the corners it's a rule of thumb to toot your horm going round as they are tight narrow roads, I pressed the horn and boom my whole engine almost cut out lol, just shows all it takes it one electrical system to break the camel's back when you're battery/alternator is low!

A run 2x8oow amps and 2 subs robsey, noticed that my drivers window not working but all the rest are ok ,you reckon regulator, not long put that one in

First of all, I would check the connections to the regulator.
In case it has become detatched for some reason. Not quite clicked into place when you replaced the regulator.
The regulator motors themselves are quite reliable, and long lasting.

Most likely is a broken wire in the door, if only one regulator is not working.

Although a pain to get at, it will be in the rubber hose (elephant's trunk) that goes between the door frame and the door.

I would cut out the damaged wire and fix a new length in.
Any other kind of jointing will only be temporary due to the flexing of the cables by the door opening and closing.

2 x 800 watts??
Approx 130 amps - I think you need an alternator from the Space Shuttle.

Obviously that is peak, but that is a lot.
Nearly double the standard alternator output.

I would consider a MUCH bigger alternator then...
And a second battery in the boot via a split-charge relay.

Cheers robsey al check that next time am in garage

Robsey wrote:2 x 800 watts??
Approx 130 amps - I think you need an alternator from the Space Shuttle.

Obviously that is peak, but that is a lot.
Nearly double the standard alternator output.

I would consider a MUCH bigger alternator then...
And a second battery in the boot via a split-charge relay.

Heavier gauge cables Robsey?

I think you are right.
Although I am going to assume that there are already extra 6mm or 10mm CSA cables (one each per amplifier) fitted to cope with that amount of current draw.

Thanks for reply robsey, sorry for delay n getting bk to youz,was away a wee holiday ,,I cleaned alternator connections,,was ip euros they had a 120amp alternator but didn't buy it as it had the ribbed pulley ,mines is old v pulley,,,was not sure if I could swap the pulleys over,,,,,,I have a wee problem had this since I've had the car ,,,see when I accelerate hard ,,it flags up engine management light,,and seems to hold bk a bit ,,,I done a smoke test ,there are no leaks ,,,cleaned maf sensor,,changed crankshaft and lambda sensors ,uts had new leads plugs dizzy and rotor ,,also changed fuel pump relay and filter ,still get this problem,,drives fine when driving at normal speeds ,just when ye stick the accelerate down hard,,,my mate reckons it's the maf sensor,,,spent loads on this car as youz know,would love this we footery problem fixed ,,,do i buy a 2nd hand maf as new ones are extortionate,,ppl asking between 50-70 ,,,for second hand ones ,just not sure ,incase youz guys maybe know ,

If I can swap pulleys I will get thst 120amp

Just a thought -
before you buy anything...
are all your vacuum and intake pipes okay?

Assuming that your MAF is in the pipework (induction hose) and not built into the air filter housing.

The other thought is engine movement.
You say this is happening when you boot the gas pedal.
Does the engine rock on it's mounts when you do this?

It could be causing a split in a hose to open, or tugging on a loose electrical connection.

Suggesting a worn rear engine mount.

-----------------------------

Thinking of your alternator - if you get an air socket on it, it should get the nut off, so that you can transfer the V pulley to the newer alternator.

Al have a check Robsey,,cheerz

Haa anyone got a MAF sensor for c20 xe

Hii ,I found the problem it was a break in wiring loom ,,cavvy going gd now ,,,,,was trying to get ABS light off ,,,,bridged A-Kpins ,,,code 19 ,,,could it be relays, I have 2 4 pin relays in the black ABS box

Tested the 2 abs relays ,resistance 85-86 =54ohms ,,,,,,,when I powered pin 30 then test lamp on 87 ,,the test bulb lit,,,,,abs code 19 ,,,,any ideas ,

I have looked for the issues that trigger code 19.

The fault (lead interruption / short circuit to ground) is recognised when the ignition is switched on with subsequent switch-on test, also while travelling.

On fault recognition during the switch-on test, the trouble code is stored if:-
Supply voltage of valve relay is less than 5 volts for longer than 30 seconds.

On fault recognition after the switch-on test, (while travelling), the trouble code is stored if:-
Supply voltage of valve relay is less than 5 volts for longer than 20 milli-seconds.

On fault recognition, the ABS is switched off and the ABS telltale is switched on.


According to further notes.

Ohmeter between valve relay U4.2 Ter 86 and Ter 85
50 to 80 ohms - valve relay is defective

Only other check is for a defective fuse - fuse 14.

You reckon I test the sockets the relays plug into ,,,