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Matts CDX - Work In Progress.
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 1:30 am
by ilovedmymantas
Thought it was about time I started a wip.
Got the rust on the sills,doors & back arches done at a body shop. ( not a very good one as it turns out) I guess "as close to original as possible" got lost in translation somewhere.
Went to blackpool last week, 500 mile round-trip, so thought I'd better do some work on it. Seized caliper needed changed so fitted a refurb one. Under £60 with £24 back for return of old unit!
Changed the threadbare gear & handbrake gaiters for nice leather ones
Made a clip-in panel for the oddments tray- piece of pine, twin 12v sockets with usb, poundland. Vinyl from tablet case, poundland again! ( have a 3 socket with 2 usb but thought that was overkill, it leaves space for something else). It's wired to cigarette socket with an in-line fuse (3A), windscreen dvr lead is also wired behind here, fused at 2A.
Changed the instrument cluster as I'd blown the speed sensor by badly fitting the radio, so I thought, since it was out I'd replace the bulbs with blue leds. Did it again as only 1 led out of 4 was the right way round !
Tried a blue led in heater panel & clock, but they were rubbish so bought white leds for them-shouldn't need changed ever again
Finally, got the radio fitted CORRECTLY!
Well, on long journeys everyone needs music, traffic alerts and a quirky satnav, don't they ?
I've bought a number plate holder with built-in camera, haven't decided yet whether to make it reversing or rear-view recorder,both available through radio-any thoughts?
Also bought wireless video sender:
and boot contact set
The idea is to minimise wiring and pulling lots of interior trim off
Also got a new aerial & boot badge to fit, so lots to keep me going!
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 5:45 pm
by Envoy CDX
Some interesting mods there.
Whats the rest of the car like?
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:03 pm
by TurboDan
I like the gadgets youve got in there
I fitted that exact same wireless camera reciever kit to my van and it worked really well.
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:21 am
by ilovedmymantas
Envoy CDX wrote:Some interesting mods there.
Whats the rest of the car like?
Car's not too bad although I seem to pick days to shop when the local blind-school are giving car-park driving lessons
Never had so much of a problem with the red cav, maybe they can't see the black one! Need to get out the g3 & get everybody else's paint off - back bumper gouged a bit, passenger door slightly indented for about 2/3rds under door-strip (strip was bent out at edge when I bought it-as photo)
Drivers chrome strip flattened for 8". Light rust spot underneath missed by bodyshop;
Main rust sorted though, before & after
Seem to have picked up a lot of short scratches through to undercoat, which is really annoying, I've only had the car 6 months ! Last cav fared much better, time to have a word with the car-park footballers I think
Got it washed today so I could post photos (500 miles of bird crap & dead flies isn't a good look!
85k- timing-belt kit & water pump, 8mm leads & iridium spark plugs, oil & filter change
Also got wheel centre-caps to do. Don't understand why previous owner got wheels refurbed but left centres all flaky
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:48 am
by iangsi
My black motorsport seems to pick up scuffs & scratches all by it's self weird
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 12:51 pm
by Super89
Very nice, Just wants a good polish
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:03 pm
by 5853moore
looking good that mate. Hope your arches last longer then mine. 18months later and there back to square one!
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:29 pm
by Envoy CDX
Looks rather nice.
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 1:40 am
by ilovedmymantas
5853moore wrote:looking good that mate. Hope your arches last longer then mine. 18months later and there back to square one!
Not expecting them to now. Repairer was recommended by a family member who had a dented panel sorted cheap , a friend acquired through his work. The work was to take 2-3 days, after this time I couldn't get an answer on the phone, so paid a visit twice(it took 6 days to "finish"!) Both times I had to point out stuff I had required that hadn't been done. Although the photos don't show it, when the sun's shining on the arches there's a sort of "mackerel" finish on the sanding, there's no rustproofing as requested and the solution to repairing the rust on the "mud-trap", (where the bumper attaches via pegs) is to cut out the rust then ....err.... that's it. Cut the rust and leave the locating pegs to rub the good metal
Why is it
after you get the work done you start hearing about the polish mafia connections
I only hope I can save the situation by plastering the arches with underseal, or maybe fibreglass resin then underseal.
I stated several times I wanted the car "as original as possible". I feel severely let down & will never use this Polish bodyshop again to save £100. They obviously have much lower standards than uk repairers
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 9:25 pm
by ilovedmymantas
Wee update : after the attempted break-in car's had it's vic, £41 quid for a 3 minute check !
Just passed mot with 4 advisories.
n/s front wheel bearing has slight play
h/b has little reserve travel
n/s rear tyre close to legal limit
fuel pipes slightly corroded
So I'm well pleased, and the mot was only £25 quid
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 9:27 pm
by Cavalier342
Not bad mate, can't complain at that!
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 4:34 am
by ilovedmymantas
Well, it's that time of year again, the mot.
Monday- fail on :
front flexi excessively corroded (Had a new QH one left over from previous cav
)
anti-roll bar insecure n/s/r - bracket needs straightened.
Passed Wednesday , Yay!
five advisories, nothing drastic .
tester has a sri red top, he said it was much better underneath than his. Couple of days later I spot this a car over from mine
It was the mot testers car ! ( spoke to him briefly )-small world
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:00 pm
by Telegram Sam
5853moore wrote:
looking good that mate. Hope your arches last longer then mine. 18months later and there back to square one!
Not expecting them to now. Repairer was recommended by a family member who had a dented panel sorted cheap , a friend acquired through his work. The work was to take 2-3 days, after this time I couldn't get an answer on the phone, so paid a visit twice(it took 6 days to "finish"!) Both times I had to point out stuff I had required that hadn't been done. Although the photos don't show it, when the sun's shining on the arches there's a sort of "mackerel" finish on the sanding, there's no rustproofing as requested and the solution to repairing the rust on the "mud-trap", (where the bumper attaches via pegs) is to cut out the rust then ....err.... that's it. Cut the rust and leave the locating pegs to rub the good metal
Why is it after you get the work done you start hearing about the polish mafia connections
I only hope I can save the situation by plastering the arches with underseal, or maybe fibreglass resin then underseal.
I stated several times I wanted the car "as original as possible". I feel severely let down & will never use this Polish bodyshop again to save £100. They obviously have much lower standards than uk repairers
I seem to remember hearing about the Polish job in yon Little Chef Livingston (from memory the car park there was not designed for practising in) a year ago.
I mentioned in another post that once I'd gone to vast expense to get my rear arches fixed (both quarter panels replaced actually) I paid a bit extra to have Rustbuster "proof" and seal the finished result in the hope that this will prevent the rust returning. So far so good ...
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon May 09, 2016 3:12 am
by ilovedmymantas
5853moore wrote:looking good that mate. Hope your arches last longer then mine. 18months later and there back to square one!
They didn't. Well tbh one's not too bad but the other's sh*t, the other re-sprayed bits 'n' pieces ( door corners, sills , odd patches ) are starting to show again. I don't even know if they used a clearcoat or a rust treatment. I'm beginning to think not
Time to raid the change bucket !
Time for a little update
I got fed-up relying on someone to lean on the bonnet while I pulled with all my might
so I thought it was time to replace the obviously worn bonnet release cable. I'm beginning to realise that the Haynes way isn't always the easiest way.
I loosened all the engine bay cable-ties then cut the footwell lever off the cable. ( it's a red craft knife, I wondered myself )
Then I taped the "bonnet end " to the cable in the footwell,
Make sure to tape the 'tail-end' centrally, otherwise you'll have to re-locate the grommet, awkward. Pull the cable through then hook into place on the release spring, re-tighten bay cable ties.
Next
Temperature was high and was losing a little oil. I've had over ten years of x20xev experience, time for a cam-cover gasket change.
First of all, my personal idiot's guide to plug lead wiring for an x20xev;
Afterthought, I could have done it better, luckily the lead length makes it obvious
Next, start pulling plug leads.
In case you don't already know, x20xev's are well-known ( at least to me ) for their oil-cooled spark plugs. Who decided a plastic cam-cover along with a spaghetti gasket was a good idea ?
A bit of brake cleaner and a kitchen roll later, ready for a wet 'n' dry sanding
When I saw this on the computer, after I'd put everything back I nearly Sh*t myself, I thought my exhaust cam sprocket had split. Optical illusion thankfully !
As a bye note, I used a full tube of blue hylomar, with a narrow nozzle, It improves the chances of getting a seal ( I still think it's pot-luck really )
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon May 09, 2016 9:15 pm
by James McGrath
Nice work.
Looking good. It's a great colour for a CDX.
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Tue May 10, 2016 9:55 pm
by ilovedmymantas
Thanks, you're right, the black does seem to suit the cdx . It's certainly lower maintenance than the red was.
Time to start fitting the other new bits I've got lying around....
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon May 29, 2017 4:48 am
by ilovedmymantas
Well.... time for a long overdue update.
January - failed on n/s/r spring seat mainly. Quickly sorted for a pass.
Advisories for a nail in each back tyre, and slightly blowing exhaust among the ten items.
(bit more info here :
viewtopic.php?f=83&t=16106 )
Update.
Bought a load of bits I needed, the idea was to remove a broken stud and replace original ones. (manifold/downpipe to be disconnected.)
removed heat shield and bracket
Then the trombone bit (just me? )
Removed the downpipe bolts. They're a bugger to get to, underneath is best, with a flexi joint.
Two old nuts to lock together to insert studs
Note that the
short thread goes into the block.
Note the missing stud
Managed to get a decent strike with the centre-punch.
Long story short, I F'd it up, mainly due to that damn air-con radiator being in the way and not being able to find my 90 degree drill adapter
Would have been fine for access if it wasn't for that non-working( too costly to fix ) air-con setup
So my rebuild still features 9 studs, for now.
Turns out the well known exhaust experts (KF) quoted for a cat replacement.
It was the downpipe. To be ordered now but the lambda looks welded
Time for a temporary rebuild. (I rely on my car )
Manifold back on, nuts tightened to specified 22 N/m with a low torque wrench. ( search for bicycle wrenches ). Good for cam covers
Temporary back together and driveable for now
I sprayed the heatshield and bolts with vht aluminium paint and added washers underneath to shield the rotting.
It'll be another week to get the downpipe. Hope the one I've got doesn't separate by then !
Haven't done an exhaust for years, forgot about burn-off !
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon May 29, 2017 11:26 am
by Robsey
Cavaliers at their best.
They like to make repairs difficult / impossible.
Might be cheaper to hire the 90 degree tool for the job.
Nice write up. Amazing what a nice tickle with some paint can do for the final finish.
I had never heard / thought of a low torque bicycle torque wrench.
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 2:53 am
by ilovedmymantas
Robsey wrote:
Might be cheaper to hire the 90 degree tool for the job. .
Truth is, I got so obsessed searching two days beforehand for the one I know I have, logic & common sense went out the window and I didn't think of that
Robsey wrote:
Nice write up. Amazing what a nice tickle with some paint can do for the final finish..
Thanks. I'm trying to get up to 'how2' quality. Not as easy as it looks though, It's hard for me to do pics and focus on the job at the same time. I think I need an editor
That last one was meant to be a vid. Don't know what happened, even I can't play it.
I was toying with spraying the manifold but worried it might not last very long. The heat shield at least has an air gap.
I decided against when I saw the manifold in bright sunlight. Thanks to the heat generated through it the majority of it was that bright red oxide colour you see on rusty iron in hot countries.
For me that's added character worthy of an older car, I think It's been earned.
Robsey wrote:
I had never heard / thought of a low torque bicycle torque wrench.
Neither had I.
Months ago I was thinking back to all the cam or rocker cover gaskets (cork & rubber) I'd had to replace, probably due to over-tightening. I knew my 'normal' torque wrench didn't go anywhere near low enough and wondered why I'd never heard of a low-torque version (surely they've been invented ?) so I did a search for low-torque wrench. My eyes were opened !
Loads of them came up, (and some wildly priced), the majority in the bicycle tool category.
The one I have starts at around 5 pounds/foot and cost about £20.
I'd recommend It as an essential for all those low-torque bolts & nuts, ICV etc., especially if it's an 8-valver
I forgot to include these pics. Once the manifold was off I discovered a few cracks (not the worst I've had historically) in the outer sheathing of the crankshaft sensor :
Wrapped with some self-amalgamating rubber tape - brilliant stuff !
Extra heat shielding to be applied. - Pound shop cable tidy
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 5:31 am
by ilovedmymantas
I discovered two things today (well, yesterday really)
My newly fitted tyre was flatter than a failed soufflé, on a day I needed to be away early.
Couldn't find my compressor in the panic so resorted to my just in case standby, holts tyreweld, the least messy of several I've tried over the years. That took the pressure to 22 psi, enough for me to limp to my nearest airline to get it back up to 34 psi.
I'm impressed with the goodyear efficientgrip performance tyres.
They have better specs than my previous favourite wet grip tyres, uniroyal rainexpert and In comparison feel like 'stickies'.
When I looked under the bonnet for the first time I discovered the downpipe had some sort of black sealant oozing out from the edges. I don't understand why anyone would think that necessary. Even if they were penny-pinching, they must have known the gasket was brand new (only fitted the day before).
Questions, questions .
and 3
eml stays on at startup, clears after one or two restarts, returns after around every 4 miles. No loss of power/limp mode.
Time for a paper-clip test
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 2:45 am
by ilovedmymantas
The results are in.....
13 - oxygen sensor open circuit.
Plug end looks ok, I'm thinking a cracked wire that's moving, hopefully not a damaged lambda
92 - camshaft sensor failure xev.
probably a dry joint where the previous owner had wired for the modified connector. I changed the sensor last year
93 - hall sensor voltage low (quad driver module) ?
Is that the coil pack?
I do have a slight oil leak, so that's more than likely the coil pack? problem - oiled plugs (again)
Time for a new gasket and oil/filter change ( I've got a nice new magnetic sump plug to fit anyway )
So overall I'm hoping for a relatively cheap fix.
Just had a thought. The lambda connector looked untouched as did the cable ties I saw. If that's the case then the wires at the sensor end could have been twisted to breaking point.
I'll disconnect the battery to clear codes and try again, just on the unlikely off-chance there's a historic fault stored, and check sensor wires.
On a picky note, and
please tell me if it's just me, I'm not very happy about the liberal use of a sealant for no apparent reason at both ends of downpipe, I've never had any sealants before.
Are they thinking old car, so belt & braces approach
- I'm trying to feel good about spending wisely, new parts for best price etc.. Feels (and looks) like I've visited a bodger to me. Even I could have made it look better than that.
What do you think?
That was a new downpipe fitted to a manifold that had been removed & cleaned and had a new gasket less than 24 hours before with no issues
Downpipe to cat joint showing o2 sensor
That just looks awful to me
Note the re-use of old springs. I wonder what else has been re-used.
Not very impressed with the welding on the new downpipe either. Klarius apparently. BM looks much better
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 2:37 am
by ilovedmymantas
On a happier note this happened, the 100k
After a long drive back from a holiday in blackpool I missed the event (tbh I had to replace the instrument cluster a while back so there's around two and a half thousand on top of that ).
if you noticed the oil-level light, so have I. Every bleeding minute
Previous oil and filter change the level light came on
and stayed on for ten months then it cleared itself.
This oil-change same again I hope it clears sooner this time
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 4:11 am
by ilovedmymantas
For the first time ever I have a car with air conditioning
Specialist (Brian of Freezbreez ) had ordered nissens condenser for me. Last Saturday he fitted it along with my back box.
I was thinking, according to Haynes, it was a bumper off job. My car's always had a dent from a towball and I thought this would be a chance to try a heat-gun on it.
Fate stepped in here and Brian's mate ( owner of this pre-facelift CD ) had a front sri bumper in diamond black that he gave me
The chosen method was to remove fan,then radiator and save (most) coolant, to be replaced later and topped up.
Sorry, no pics
After assembly
The nitrogen test
Pressure test was perfect, surprising after so many years unused. Next step was to vacuum the high and low pressure systems for 30 minutes to remove moisture.
After filling with coolant the car ran 20 mins. It was a typical cool scottish rainy day, the vents were aimed at the side windows. I had to wipe the condensation from the
outside of the windows before I left!
I'm glad I did It now, despite the fact It was expensive to fix and financially impractical for a northern climate
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 7:42 pm
by ilovedmymantas
...and the klarius back box fitted
I'm getting a buzz/ rattle at times from the exhaust and having seen underneath I did notice the cat & other silencer looked pretty rotten so It's probably one of them. Since I have a new cat section in a box I'm thinking of buying the (suspect)short silencer and getting them fitted, then it'll be all-new
Re: Matts CDX
Posted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 2:01 pm
by James McGrath
Good work there.
Must be lovely to have air con this time of year.
I've just tried to get my V6 air con working; the condenser and receiver dryer were replaced. It actually worked for a day before all the gas leaked out of the compressor.
Unfortunately it can't be fixed so I'll have to get a new one.