Return to a Cavalier - Satin Red Diplomat.

[tonyo]

Got what time I could over the weekend between the weather.

decided to have a look at the O/S Headlamp wiper. It's not worked since I got the car, and on closer inspection, it was pretty bent, maybe it's been tapped at some point.



Pete had given me a pair of spare motors, unfortunatly they were both N/S units, so decded to have a look. When I pulled the washer stalk, I could hear the motor running, but the wiper wouldn't move, so it just had to be the mechanism.




On taking the Motor out, it backed up the theory that it's been hit.



Took the back off totally, and immediatley saw what the issue was. The mech had become disconnected - the casing holds it all together.



Popped everything back in place, and tested.. Bingo it still worked!



Gave it some new grease, and rebuilt the case.



Unfortunatley, the hit had destroyed most of the lugs, so I had to strap it all up with cable ties. Not pretty but they do the job, and cant be seen anyway.

Before putting it all back together, gave the cavity a good clean and degrease..



Also cleaned as much of the green and muck around the rubbers, indicator edges and headlamp case as I could..



Popped it all back together, along with a spare arm that Pete had given me with the motors, The new arm is quite rusty and needs a bit of care, that can be stripped and painted at some point, at least it's not bent!



Gave the N/S the same treatment, lamp out, all cleaned, degreased, polished, waxed and back in.



All working fine now!



And some shots of the very nicely beading grille.. Just got the whole of the rest of the car to go!

[Mk3alan]

Good work!
Same happened to mine - didn't work when I got it, managed to get a replacement and still have the original in the loft - might give it another look!

Alan

[Lowrider Dave]

It's nice when it's a straight forward fix! Good progress.

[tonyo]

Got into some interesting stuff this weekend..

Since I've had the car I've never really had a proper look behind the wheels. This wekend was the time to change that.


So, started by having a look behind the front..



Pads have some meat left, but the disks are really badly lipped.. also not too clean in here.

Front ARB Droplinks have seen much better days too..



The rear isn't much better.. The Rear brakes need some attention also..



And the rear shocks are certainly past their best.



Now, for the real reason I was in there.. Thanks to Pete and Lowrider Dave , I'd got my hands on some unobtanium.



So, out with the old and in with the new..





Started the weeknd like this..



And ended like this..



The sports springs really show up how poor all four shocks are, the poor damping was masked by the soft standard springs. So, 4 new gas shocks are on their way (I'm doing away with the air adjustables at 15x the price) along with 2 new front lower arms, already in my posession - cheers Pete. They are bing joined by New front topmounts, New front ARB Mounts and Droplinks, and new rear lower spring rubbers. I've also got to do both outer boots on the CV's as well.. Next month this should be followed by new pads and Disks all round, and when I can find them, completely new rear ARB mounts and outer bushes.

[Lowrider Dave]

Good work Tony, glad the springs were useful! Let me know when you're going to do the droplinks etc as I's like to see how they're done as I haven't done mine and would like to learn by observation!

[tonyo]

Came home to a small parts haul tonight..

Boxes-o-plenty..



First is new Strut top mount kits. The strut top bearings on the car didn't feel too bad at the time, but the new ones feel properly stiff and smooth in comparison.



Next Boxes are 22mm Front ARB Droplinks. I measured the ARB's when I did the suspension, as the Cav can have 18/22/24mm Front ARBs.



Lastly is a pair of ARB mounting bushes. Bit of a bonus here too. Just picked a supplier at random on EBay, ordered and waited. When I opened the package, I was greeted by this..



Genuine Parts for the win! Brilliant, was just expecting 3rd party stuff..

More coming shortly.

[ken707]

I've just read this thread, think I've got a new pair of rear air assisted shocks for a Cav, got them with a load of Manta parts a few years ago. Perhaps too late as you'd mentioned ordering std ones.

Ken

[tonyo]

Thanks Ken. With the stupid prices they seem to go for, and due to the Cav really only being a commute car (I've got the Insignia with a 3 acre boot for load lugging), the air adjustment wasn't really a huge importance for me.

You were correct.. I'd already got these..



The tops of the rear dampers had been on there for so long, the Nut was totally coroded on both, so I had to angle grind the tops off.

Whilst I did that I cracked off the bottom bolt, and them let 'the apprentice' take out the bottom mounts..



With a bit of persuasion they came out. This was the BETTER of the two.. No resistance under compression, and no attempt to return to rest position when moved.



Whoop, some replacements with damping life in them..



Then 'the boy' did the bottom bolts back up whilst I did the tops..



Cable tied the air pipes to the fixed top of the new shocks so that it could go back to air adjustables in the future if I wanted to.

Boy, what a difference, the rear feels like a completely different car, and combined with the Eibachs it tries to corner nice and flat. Fronts to go, but I'm gonna call on the SC mob, along with the appropriatley named 'Stilsons of Doom' as from experience witht the Astra, the damper retaining nuts on the front legs are furkin' tight.

[tonyo]

Decided to start attacking the paintwork this afternoon..

First off (after a wash) was to have alook at the deep scratches on the front of the bonnet.



I've been quoted upwards of £400 to have the bonnet resprayed. It's just not worth it for cosmetic reasons, if it was rotten fine, but I was sure I could disguise them a bit. So, attacked it with some G3, and managed to deminish them a bit..



Next step is some touch in paint, a very fine brush, and cut back as it goes off so that it looks passable. This isn't a showroom car, and never will be, it gets used nearly every day..

Whilst I was mincing around with paintwork and polish, I broke out my newest toy - a rotary polisher. About an hour, one near wrecked foam pad, and a load of autoglym later, and I'd got one side starting to look passable..





After all the horror stories and people warning about burning through paint etc, I have to say I found it remarkably easy.. Just keep the pad moving, and be aware near seams..

It is apparent that it needs an awful lot more before it starts to look good, and the roof is so rough I think I may need to cut it before I polish. Still, it's a start..

[Lowrider Dave]

Nice and shiny. As you say, as long as you keep the polisher moving there is little risk of burning. I only started using a DA last year and you soon pick it up. I'm using several different compounds from Chemical Guys that work excellently on different levels of paintwork.

[humbucker]

The new arm is quite rusty and needs a bit of care, that can be stripped and painted at some point, at least it's not bent!

I bought brand new genuine arms for Turbo #1. They are still available. They weren't very expensive.

Nice and shiny. As you say, as long as you keep the polisher moving there is little risk of burning. I only started using a DA last year and you soon pick it up. I'm using several different compounds from Chemical Guys that work excellently on different levels of paintwork.

You cannot damage paint with a Dual Action polisher, that's the beauty of them. A rotary polisher will burn paint if left in the same spot for too long, and while the latter will do a better job than a DA, there's a lot to be said for peace of mind!

[tonyo]

The new arm is quite rusty and needs a bit of care, that can be stripped and painted at some point, at least it's not bent!

I bought brand new genuine arms for Turbo #1. They are still available. They weren't very expensive.

Nice and shiny. As you say, as long as you keep the polisher moving there is little risk of burning. I only started using a DA last year and you soon pick it up. I'm using several different compounds from Chemical Guys that work excellently on different levels of paintwork.

You cannot damage paint with a Dual Action polisher, that's the beauty of them. A rotary polisher will burn paint if left in the same spot for too long, and while the latter will do a better job than a DA, there's a lot to be said for peace of mind!

Ooh.. Where did you get the arms? I've been looking around (ebay, GPS etc), and couldn't find them..

I read up a bit after having got the Rotary Polisher, and realised that the DA would have been safer.. Still, thats why I tried the bonnet first, it was borderline on having to have it resprayed, so I thought I'd nothing to lose if I started there..

[tonyo]

So, todays task was to investigate the rattling heat sheild underneath. Just recently my wife thought I was going mad, buying Ice Hockey pucks..



At just over a quid each though, they are a great and (IMO) better alternative than a bit of wood when placed here..



Got underneath, all heatsheilds are fine, it would appear that the 6 month old Cat is now rattling.. Serves me right for buying a cheap one I guess.. I'll have to investigate that at some point later.

On to the next task.. For ages now, the little fella in the back has been reminding me that his window is the only one that doesn't work, so today I had another crack at rectifying it. After finding Cav rear window mechanisms impossible to replace, I took a different route..



It's a unit from an X plate (I think) Omega which are far more plentiful than Cav ones.. On receipt, it as obvious that the plug was different, however, the Cav plug fits the socket, just needed to be cable tied in to work. Tested, and it operates correctly when asked.. Yay!

So, now I set about stripping the old out of the door and comparing to the Omega unit. The cav differs -

1) The Overall length on the cav one is about 1/2 cm longer than the Omega
2) The Cav runner has a stop 3/4 way down
3) Difference in length means the cav unit has longer wires.
4) Motor mounts at a different point.
5) The Omega unit has a lot smaller control box - although still one touch close etc still works.







OK, not impossible to rectify.. Strip Both motor sets off the runners. Remove the cables. Remove the motor reel off both motors (just pulls off).



Swap the Cables over..



Rebuild, and refit to the door.

As the unit was good, I finally closed up the rear passenger door with some plastic membrane as I rebuilt it..



It's a long time since the car has been able to do this..



All functions work, one touch operation from both buttons, and autoclose..

When pulling it out of the garage, satisfied with my efforts, I noted a couple of oil drips on the floor.. Checked the car out, and it now appears I've got an oil leak to find too..

I think thats the story of this car.. Fix one problem and it rewards you with at least one more..

[Lowrider Dave]

Cracking work. My electric windows are slow to go down, I dread to think what the cause is...

[tonyo]

Cracking work. My electric windows are slow to go down, I dread to think what the cause is...

I put it down to age.. The Omega replacement makes that window the fastest on on the car. I's down and stopped before the Cav unit on the other side has managed halfway.

I'm in half a mind to do the Drivers side rear too..

[tonyo]

Little bit of 1-Year-Anniversary tinkering today. Cleaned out rocker cover breather with carb cleaner so that I know I have no blockages at all.

Topped up (as I thought) the Washer bottle, and on realising that it was just foam coming up the filler neck, carried on filling.. Another 2 litres later, I'm getting worried that the thing has a hole in it. Checked, nothing running out underneath.. Carried on filling until it was full. Gosh! I guess the amount of water sitting above the NSF wheel helps with weight for traction..

Next I thought I'd have a look at the Plugs.. Pulled them out, and discovered that they look really rather healthy.



Whilst I was there I took the oppertunity to do a compression test to see how well it really is. Removed the Fuel Pump fuse (don;t want to put fuel through the cat), and unplugged the king lead to avoid inadertent sparks. Did a compression test with the plugs out, but cold and with the throttle closed.

Showed within 5psi of 140psi on all four, for an NE that seems to be right on the money. Will do a test with it warm soon, and remember to hold the throttle open too..

Last thing I noted was the contition of the Crank position sensor connector. Looks like it needs a new one fairly rapidly..

[James McGrath]

1 year already, that's crazy!

Nice work.

[Lowrider Dave]

Good anniversary mince!

[Carledo]

If you are still stuck for a rear window motor, I am breaking a 95 CDX that has one - and a late type aircon system!

Steve

[ilovedmymantas]

Last thing I noted was the contition of the Crank position sensor connector. Looks like it needs a new one fairly rapidly..

[ Image ]

Hot glue or tigerseal will extend the life, for years in my experience, until you find the correct part at the right price

[tonyo]

So, this morning before I finished helping a mate move, I got time to persuade the GTE to donate two of her road wheels and spare..



Cav will be wearing them for a week or so..



Off the wheels will go tomorrow morning in the boot of the Insignia, to be stripped, repaired, and repainted as new.. I've already got brand new centre caps for them (from Billing last year), and they will be shod with Avon ZV5's when they return, rather than the mish mash of odd ditch-finding ruubber that currently adorns them..

The spare, although fitted with a near dead Dunlop, is just about the worst, although they all are pretty crusty all over..

[Lowrider Dave]

Great stuff, can't beat a good strip and repaint, they always come up as new and make the car look better for it. Out of interest, where do you use Tony?

[tonyo]

Theyre going to Solent Wheel Services Dave. http://www.solentwheels.com/. Dan has had refurbs for his Gte, mk2, and Mk5 wheels. They also did Petes Monaro wheels (in the gallery - you cant miss the Huuuuge APRacing calipers).

The full refurb and a new set of boots looks to be coming in cheaper than four tyres for the Insignia.

[Lowrider Dave]

Thanks Tony. I had the ST alloys on the V6 stripped and recoated by a firm local to my work (Whiteley). Pretty good work and they seem to do a lot of high end cars too. I'd be interested in seeing the finish of your alloys. (I'm on the look out for a set of fanblades for 'Archer').

https://www.thewheelspecialist.co.uk/lo ... ham-hants/

[tonyo]

All around the world, the word 'oof' was muttered..



Gratuitous close ups..





Turn it over, and the back is just as good as the front..



The tyres are not Avons, as Pirelli Cinturato P1's are better rated for the same cost. Adding the refurb and tyre cost, means each wheel came out at just over £110. Add in the cost of the new cerntres, and its under £120 per wheel. Happy with that when the Insignia tyres are £140 a pop without fitting charges.