M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Show off your pride and joy! All Mk3 Cavaliers are welcome (please post only one thread per car)
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Today's job was to get the new door fitted on. I anticipated it was going to take me from about 9AM till at least Sun down (16:30 ish) if not longer and I was not wrong.

A few expletives were articulated in the course of said job, mainly to do with:

1) Fitting the handles/door catch which was a ruddy pain in the nether regions.

2) Fitting the window mechanism, which was a double pain in the nether regions & resulted in the majority of the expletives!

Image

I know I'd done this before but I always forget how I done it so it's like a learning experience all over again. I'd built up the door catch and handle then realised the little snap on bit for the handle rod was not on and this resulted in having to take all the lock out again, plus various other bits that were just a sod to get in place.

When installing the window mechanism I had the little adjustable metal guide bit the wrong way round, from a cursory glance it looks like the stepped section goes on the inner side, but it doesn't it goes on the outer, if the you put it on the wrong way the arm stretches out and hits the end before the scissor thing has got to it's maximun travel and it then jams - or pops of - resulting in a bent arm as well - guess what happened to mine! Easily enough to straighten it though, pop the little plastic carriage back on it and turn the guide around.

Actually getting the window in was another challenge but there you go, all done now. Only thing left to do is put the mirror inside cover on, clean the paw marks off the window, put the outer trim on and I think I need to adjust the B pillar catch in a little bit as the door is sitting ever so slightly proud.
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James McGrath
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by James McGrath »

Nice work there. I can imagine that job being a real pain. Bet it felt satisfying to get it done though!
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

I always get my forearms and wrists scratched to bits working on the door innards.

One more job ticked off the list. :D
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Very satisfying James, I've now washed the car with snow foam to make the new door look less conspicuous, or more like the rest of the car looking more a match with the cleaner door! just need to get the trim off the old door and onto new door, double sided stickly tape I think is the best solution.

Robsey, yes there does not seem to be a proper procedure that I know if for re-installing all the locks and handles, a bit mix and match, there will be a way probably in the manual but I just trust my own instincts more or less (With some skint knuckles along the way) :D

Cheers

Andy
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

I found the isssue with the central locking, there was no power to the little control unit so suspecting the bridge wire I put from fuse to the control unit a few years ago i pulled the fuse box out and pulled the wire out and found a nice break in the wire. There was power at the fuse, and up to the break but not beyond.

So a quick splice with a little bullet connector done the trick and power was restored and I can now get in the back wayhay!

As always the old one fix rewards you with another problem, so I was underneath and found the blowing part of the exhaust, which I knew about already, but also found the bracket bit that the seat bolts onto was looking a bit crumbly, although luckily it's not bad but looks worse and I'd patched it up before so am currently in the process of rubbing it all down with my twisted knot wire brush and have some rust eater on it. Once that has dried out I'll re-seal it all and paint it. It will need properly fixed at some point but just want to get it patched up for the MOT.

The exhaust centre section and back box was already patched up not that long ago and is looking on a shaky nail, I had to patch it on the centre section silencer and the bit on the back box where the pipe goes into the silencer. Hopefully it holds out for a few weeks at least!

I've some pics and will post up later.
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

As promised here's the pics of previous work:

Broken feed wire:

Image

Broken feed wire fixed:

Image

This was another bit I found under the driver side seat mounting. It had been welded before but was starting to look a bit shoogly again. I do need to do a proper repair on it some time but for now I just cleaned it all down, re-sealed it and painted it.

Image

The plastic clips that are bolted to the floor and hold the fuel pipes with those flimsy plastic things, popped off and although they pushed back on I reckoned they would have fell off again, so I slabbered some sealant round them to give them a bit more hold for now. Long term fix is a new bolt threaded through the floor to secure them a bit better.
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

I was a bit puzzled momentarily seeing the purple fuel pump relay on the floor. But then I guessed you had unscrewed the central locking retainer from the side-wall, along with the relay mount and square-connector holders.

The pictures of underside corrosion brings back memories that I would rather forget.... although I will have to face similar in the spring when I finally get back to work on my car. Three years without driving the Cav is far too long.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote: Sun Nov 20, 2022 5:45 pm I was a bit puzzled momentarily seeing the purple fuel pump relay on the floor. But then I guessed you had unscrewed the central locking retainer from the side-wall, along with the relay mount and square-connector holders.

The pictures of underside corrosion brings back memories that I would rather forget.... although I will have to face similar in the spring when I finally get back to work on my car. Three years without driving the Cav is far too long.
Yes I had removed all that, I had been in there taking the fuel pump relay out to get rid of the fuel line pressure to renew the seals on the injector. Strange how that wire had broken like that it wasn't under any strain or anything, it was just lightly tie wrapped to the existing loom to keep it in place, funnily enough the actual loom wire had done the same (break in it somewhere) a few years ago hence the original bridge wire from fuse to CL control unit.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

So that's another year's ticket, but not without some advisories, front bushes starting to split, handbrake O/S not working well, and a bit of rust on the sill near the seatbelt he said, I'm not sure I'm looking in the right place, as I can't see it, but will have a better dig when I can.

I should have noticed these things, but was not able to get a really thorough check over this year. I'm also a bit concerned about the front subframe, & the front crossmember, which I had to patch above it and it's looking really crusty, and the subframe is really past it's best, as I've had to patch that a well, so I've found a place in Germany that sells subframes they have restored and powder coated, they look really nice in red. They said they only restore the best ones, they have said they ship to UK so going to see if I can purchase one of these to replace mine. I'm also looking at the fuel tank starting to look a bit past it, and the straps as well so that will need doing too.

I think my plan is to try and get the car off the road as early next year as possible, March hopefully, and try and get a good bit of work done on it over the summer. I want to get the engine out and swapped over for the other low mileage engine I have, and while doing that, fix the rot in the bulkhead and scabbyness on the top of the chassis legs near the bottom of bulkhead, and anything else I can do while in there. I was thinking I would need to clear out the dippy from garage to work on it, but I will need it outside anyway to remove engine and I can still work on it outside on the dry days :roll:

Then renew the front crossmember and subframe and again anything else I can do while in and about there. If I've got time, I can get the tank replaced as well. Still need to think about exactly what I'm going to do, want to get the above done as a first anyway, and think what else I can do while it's there and stripped. Ideally I'd like to strip it down to nut and bolt and totally restore everything, but I know where that leads too!
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Just recieved my new subframe from Germany, although I do say new it is refurbished but hasn't got a mark on it, and has a great bright red finish to it.

Image

They have a rear axle as well so I'll probably get that in the New Year once funds build up again.

Looking forward to putting new arms/bushings on it and replacing that old rusted and holed one!

i also got the crank pulley locking bar for my Omega, hard item to get but I found a company in Hungary that supplies them, German made and for 40 euros. Originally made by Kent Moore and original code is KM 662-C. Means I can change the crank pulley oil seal.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by 3cav3 »

Got to admit, I never really registered that cavaliers had sub frames. It looks very impressive in the bright red paint. I know my rear axle has very light surface rust, just wondering what sort of cost would be involved rather than cleaning and painting mine up?
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

It doesn't cost that much to remove, and get it bead blasted and powder coated.

Had a whole rake of my Cavalier blasted and coated in 2016. It looked the dogs danglies when I got it all back.

Back then, it was £60 , although it is almost like a standard price regardless of order size. So the more parts the merrier, to get the best value.
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ilovedmymantas
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by ilovedmymantas »

The subframe looks good, it's nice to work with 'new' clean parts, I suspect it will have several coats of anti rust paint before fitting :) ...
A belated congrats on the mot, don't know how I missed it :scratch
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina " ;)

1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev

-1995 cdx x20xev

---------------
Matt
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

3cav3 wrote: Wed Dec 14, 2022 10:35 pm Got to admit, I never really registered that cavaliers had sub frames. It looks very impressive in the bright red paint. I know my rear axle has very light surface rust, just wondering what sort of cost would be involved rather than cleaning and painting mine up?
Getting into the realms of technicalities here but I think it is called a crossmember, not quite the subframe I think of when I think of the one on my granada, which is massive, and heavy, but it does the same job really. The granada subframe though holds the 2 wishbone & trailing arm suspension per side, plus the hubs, shocks and steering rack, and the engine rests on it, as does the gearbox on the subframe (crossmember) of the cavalier, but the engine mounts to the chassis as well; so bit of a mix and match with cavy.

Think it was a couple of hundred, but you also have to sort out shipping, which I done with a German based courier for a small registration fee. The company say they only use the best units and this one - ignoring the shiny red coating - looks for all intents and purpose like a new unit, all the edges don't show any signs of ever having any rust, and no signs of patches just the original welding runs I can see.

This is the German to English translation of the process:

Condition
RECONDITIONED, powder-coated, TOP quality.
1. Front axle completely prepared, derusted and dusted in an injector blasting cabinet.
2. After sandblasting, front axle checked for rusting through.
3. Only the best axles are further reconditioned, powder coated, oven hardened.
4. Quality checked and packed.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

On top of my exhaust now farting like a good un, patch up was only to last the mot and a bit beyond. I've now noticed the passenger side front window won't go down, but I can hear it clicking when I press up. I've got the back box, an original from Germany no less, but still need to source a centre section. I seen a few on ebay with a name Klarius, UK built seem popular so might plum for one of them and see how it fares. I'm very sure that trying to order one now from wherever is going to take an age to arrive, what with xmas and the postal strikes, but needs must. It'll arrive when it arrives I suppose.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

I noticed on a wee errand run tonight that my fuel guage was dropping - just after I filled it up as well. Initially panicked I thought maybe something awry had happened to the tank - like it fell off :D - but then noticed my temp guage was crashing as well, both guages then settled at the bottom and therein suspected some sort of earthing issue. Don't see any other issues with display so hopefully it's something simples.

Last week I went to move the car as it had been standing for a while over Xmas/NY and the handbrake stuck on the back wheel, so had to jack it up, take the drum off, clean off the bit that had welded to the drum, clean out the crud etc. The handrake has been doing that sticky thing for Months so it was overdue for the drums to be cleaned out, and I left it a bit too long.

so been a bit busy with issues, still got the exhaust to replace, and this is not the weather to be out working on it so it's going to have to wait for a bit before I get round to it all!
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

Is anything else affected, or just your fuel and temperature gauges? -

I know you said everything else is okay, therefore I suspect it is not an earth issue.

Reasoning -
Basic dash electrics for you.

Thesee are the voltage rails in the dash.
1 - Ignition Live
2 - Illumination Live
3 - 10 volt Instrument Live.
4 - The indicator warning light(s), which is fed from the stalk.
5 - The high beam warning light.
6 - The alternator charge light

‐------------------------------------------------------

To answer your comment - we'll start at 3.

If it is JUST both of those two gauges, chances are that your voltage regulator is faulty, or the connections to it could be damp, loose, or corroded
It is the three-legged transistor type thing in the TO220 casing.

It is standard practice for all cars with electronic gauges (80s and 90s), to stabilize the voltage going through the gauges by putting the supply through a 10 volt voltage regulator.
If voltage ran directly from the ignition live circuit, it would vary anywhere between 12v and 14.9v depending upon the rpm of the engine and the alternator, and the efficiency of the alternator brush-pack and regulator.
In this situation, the higher the rpm, the higher the needles would read.
--------------------------------------
2 - Illumination live feeds would affect the back lighting only.
---------------------------------------
1 - Ignition live would affect everything EXCEPT any of the lighting functions. Items 2, 4, and 5 above.

It feeds the voltage regulator for the gauges.
It feeds many of the warning lights on the instrument panel.
It feeds the Alternator light (reverse biased) and it feeds the rev counter / tachometer.
------------------------------

Now Then - The Earth / Ground / Chassis rail (0 volts).

If there is a fault with the grounding of the instrument panel, it would affect more than just the fuel and temperature gauges alone.

It should also affect the illumination, some dash warning lights, and the rev counter where fitted.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote: Sat Jan 14, 2023 7:17 pm Is anything else affected, or just your fuel and temperature gauges? -

I know you said everything else is okay, therefore I suspect it is not an earth issue.

Reasoning -
Basic dash electrics for you.

Thesee are the voltage rails in the dash.
1 - Ignition Live
2 - Illumination Live
3 - 10 volt Instrument Live.
4 - The indicator warning light(s), which is fed from the stalk.
5 - The high beam warning light.
6 - The alternator charge light

‐------------------------------------------------------

To answer your comment - we'll start at 3.

If it is JUST both of those two gauges, chances are that your voltage regulator is faulty, or the connections to it could be damp, loose, or corroded
It is the three-legged transistor type thing in the TO220 casing.

It is standard practice for all cars with electronic gauges (80s and 90s), to stabilize the voltage going through the gauges by putting the supply through a 10 volt voltage regulator.
If voltage ran directly from the ignition live circuit, it would vary anywhere between 12v and 14.9v depending upon the rpm of the engine and the alternator, and the efficiency of the alternator brush-pack and regulator.
In this situation, the higher the rpm, the higher the needles would read.
--------------------------------------
2 - Illumination live feeds would affect the back lighting only.
---------------------------------------
1 - Ignition live would affect everything EXCEPT any of the lighting functions. Items 2, 4, and 5 above.

It feeds the voltage regulator for the gauges.
It feeds many of the warning lights on the instrument panel.
It feeds the Alternator light (reverse biased) and it feeds the rev counter / tachometer.
------------------------------

Now Then - The Earth / Ground / Chassis rail (0 volts).

If there is a fault with the grounding of the instrument panel, it would affect more than just the fuel and temperature gauges alone.

It should also affect the illumination, some dash warning lights, and the rev counter where fitted.
Hi Robsey

Yes, it looks to be only those two gauges and funnily enough we have had biblical amounts of rain the last 2 weeks, and I noticed there was condensation on the clear plastic binnacle cover, so it's no doubt dampness causing it. I'm going to sponge up the water under the carpet today as it's dry day (for how long though!) and run my dehumidifer.

The explanation about the transistors makes sense, it couldn't be ground as that would affect all instruments as you say.

It is the three-legged transistor type thing in the TO220 casing.

That the one that looks like a little water tower? I mind mucking about with these things in college, building basic circuits and making circuit boards.

Cheers again Robsey
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

The transistor on this non-tacho cluster is on the centre-left of the photo...

Image
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

I couldn't see the photo when I clicked on it, either way it looks like I'm going to have to replace whaever section it is that the FET transistor is on, is it the plastic sheet circuit board or another bit? I can solder no problem, but a straight swap of the containing part would probably be easier. I've got a spare dash pod kicking about up the loft so could use that, just need to dig it out.

Had a major headache today, decided to fit the exhaust and put the 2 bits together to see if the sleeves were a neat fit between the back box and centre section, they were miles out, the centre section that is supposed to slide into the back box, which has a larger collar on it, was about the same diameter.

Had to cut more slits in the collar, grind & hammer it to get it to eventually fit and even then it wasn't the best but a lot better than what it started out as.

This is the end result plenty of assembly paste round the join. I think I need a new clamp as well as this one a bit thin looking. I'll get a new one and replace it soon.

Image

I think the main issue was trying to fit an OE part (Backbox) to an aftermarket part (Centre section), never a good idea. The centre section actually looked ok, and otherwise fitted up fine, it was just the diameter of the pipe end that was too big.

Centre section in place:

Image

New OE backbox:

Image

You can probably see the remains of the heat shield at the backbox hanging down. It is rotten, and I forgot to take it off when I had the backbox off, so as it's still fixed at the top, but not at the sides, it rattles off the exhaust. I folded the edge up so it wasn't loose but will remove it next time.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Next job was to remove the dash binnacle and try and fix the temp and fuel guage, started out with taking the steering wheel off. I know some people don't bother but I feel that having it out of the way makes life much easier, being careful not to turn the ignition on though once airbag is unplugged.

Once I had that off and the column stalks hanging down I pulled the binnacle out gingerly until I could get in the back and take the 2 connectors off and the speedo off. Always found the speedo a bit of a painful thing to remove, and I found that tilting the binnacle to it's side a bit lets you get in to get the connectors off. Unfortunately while I was mucking about in there it must have sheared off the little white plastic neck thing that the speedo cable slides over.

Bugger he thought! So once I had the binnacle out I swapped over the voltage regulator from the spare one - checking of course that that is working first with airbag plugged back in of course - then superglued the white collar back on. I'm keeping my fingers crossed the glue hardens enough to hold it in place when I put the cable back on.

I did strip down the spare binnacle and had a look in the speedo to see if it was easy to change, well no, it's part of the whole unit and it looks as if it's put together in a way that if you start pulling it apart it will destroy it, no doubt for a good reason, either that or I could swap the whole spare clock in and get 10k miles chopped off my car!
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

I have never tried stripping the speedo head on a Cavalier.
I have done it on a few others...
Astra mk2 digi-dash, Montego Speedo, Maestro digi-dash and the VW Transporter were all quite easy to disassemble.
Just a matter of being very careful and paying attention to how these things come apart - and go back together, of course.

As for 10k on the speedo - unless you were working on a nearly new or very low mileage vehicle, I don't think it would make a huge difference.
As long as you were not clocking it in order to sell the car under false-pretences.

Anyone can access the MOT history of any car, so it is very easy to spot a dodgey mileage or MOT history if you spend 20 seconds on the .gov website.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

I managed to glue the little bit back on and get the speedo back on ok, but then I turned the ignition on and forgot the air bag plug was still out under the dash woops done it again! Then could I get the bottom cowl back on, something I've done so many times before with ease, I ended up fracturing a bit of it on the side so will need to get replacement.

Added to that I'm not sure if I have that black plastic airbag ring thing between steering and cowl on the right way, there is a spring loaded bullet sticking out at the top of the surround and on the black ring there is a raised section with a notch in the middle of raised bit that looks like it fits in there but when I done that the steering was clicking and catching on something as it turned so I just left it off centre for the time being.

looks like one of the bulbs is out as well, the one between the temp guage and end of speedo but I'll be darned if I am stripping that out again!
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

Is the finger not for cancelling the indicators.?
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote: Sat Jan 21, 2023 8:11 pm Is the finger not for cancelling the indicators.?
Not that bit, that's the bit attached to the back of the steering wheel, there is a plastic disc in between that and the shroud with an orange wire coming out the bottom with a multi plug that goes in under the column for the airbag. I'll try and get a video of it tomorrow and show you.
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