M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

[cavalier1990]

If you look at this diagram, it's no 4 called terminal block air bag. I think the last time I had the little notch placed in the metal spring loaded bullet at the top but when I done it yesterday it was catching when the steering was moved making me think it was on the wrong way.

https://opel.catalogs-parts.com/#{clien ... bgroup:3-0}

The picture shows it with wire directly at the bottom which would make sense as that is where the termainal is coming from under the dash, and that places the notch at the top where the little metal spring loaded bullet is. Don't know if you can see this video or not but this shows it on mine, it's just floating. I might try it back at the top again.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ahunZE5933dh1mGp7

I thought I might be able to pull the spring bullet back and turn it back round to there to put it in the notch, but the bottom plug is catching on the plastic thing that sits on the front of the column, it's not much but I'd need to force it past the plastic edge.

Cheers

Andy

[cavalier1990]

Update:

I managed to get the bullet thing into the notch and I reckon this is the way it is supposed to be locked in place. New video below.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KdMJtNCsiEjRrNcN7


I've no idea what this actually does. I'll need to try the steering again make sure it's not catching.

[Robsey]

No worries...
Oh dear, that is your Squib.
Need to be careful how you refit that.
Contains a "clock spring" inside that winds in and out as you turn the wheel from lock to lock.

I will see if I can find anything on TIS for how to remove and fit it correctly.

[cavalier1990]

No worries...
Oh dear, that is your Squib.
Need to be careful how you refit that.
Contains a "clock spring" inside that winds in and out as you turn the wheel from lock to lock.

I will see if I can find anything on TIS for how to remove and fit it correctly.

From what I'm seeing in the haynes manual and that diagram, it looks like a screw goes in the back of the squib into the steering wheel - like towards the driver - so that one part of it would turn with the wheel and the other part would be fixed onto that bullet pin. Certainly not sure though, but thanks for having a look at the TIS.

Andy

[Robsey]

You have an email with TIS procedure, but looking at the images, I am sure it will not help much.

[cavalier1990]

Hi Robsey

Thanks for forwarding that, I know what you mean about the pictures, but I suppose that can't be helped, that manual must have been made in the early 90s.

I've absoultely no idea what that squib is for, do you? It does have an electrical connector plug in it so it must be measuring something, or is that just the connection through to the airbag. I think looking at the way it is on now, I reckon that's got to be the right way, any other way it's just floating about not really doing anything. If it's measuring wheel position then surely it's got to be fixed.

Cheers

Andy

[Robsey]

It is purely a connection between the fixed collumn mounting, and the rotating steering wheel.

Hence the coil that tightens and relaxes with the rotation of the wheel.

[cavalier1990]

It is purely a connection between the fixed collumn mounting, and the rotating steering wheel.

Hence the coil that tightens and relaxes with the rotation of the wheel.

In that case it must be installed right having it locked to the little bullet pin at the top, allowing the wheel to turn the coil inside it while the body of the squib is fixed. No idea what its functionality is.

Thanks

Andy

[chrisp]

The clock spring allows electrical connections to the controls on the steering wheel. On my V6 Cavalier these are only the 2 horn buttons and the airbag, but more recent cars have multiple steering wheel mounted controls that need a connection between the static steering column and the moving steering wheel
I think I recall that before clock springs were used, steering wheel mounted controls were connected by contacts attached to the steering wheel rubbing on copper/brass tracks on the fixed column but these used to get dirty and therefore unreliable. They would also be impracticable to power the multiple steering wheel controls on modern cars.
If you ever have a steering wheel with a clock spring disconnected from the rack you have to be very careful not to twirl it round and round because that will ruin the clock spring either by tightening it to far, or the opposite direction which will just stretch it out till it fails.

[cavalier1990]

The makes complete sense Chris as it's got the connection for the air bag on it as well. I remember those copper track they used to have on the back of steering wheels, they were always filthy, it's a wonder they still worked!

Needless to say I now have a bulb gone in the dash, need a new bottom cover, broke the speedo plastic end on the instrument cluster, and my exhaust repair is now blowing......but the gauges now work!

[cavalier1990]

Decided to do a wee bit of fettling on the jalopy today since the weather is a lot drier than of recent. One of the issues I noticed is the drivers side headlight seems to be pointing up to the sky, it was actually the bulb had popped out and that was caused by the plastic clamp thing that holds the spring clip for the bulb in place. I tried glueing it back in as a temp fix till I got round to fitting the new lights, but it wouldn't stick, and the bulb kept falling out.

So dug out one of the new headlights and replaced it. I had to change the glass over as it was a replacement for the pre-facelift, otherwise everything else fits in place.

Also discovered the sidelight bulb was shot so replaced that as well.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BNvxmEjJjcAZcLvVA

The passenger light's reflector is all green/faded so that'll be getting done as well in due course. The drivers side reflector was ok, so have kept that as a spare. Next job give it as wash as it's manky!

[Envoy CDX]

It's all good

[cavalier1990]

It's all good

I can now report I have one nice sharp beam of light pointing just about where I think it should be now, was out last night and the difference having just one new light is amazing, and that was the side with the good reflector. Just shows how much you get used to it in this case bad lights, I did feel as if I was illuminating the roadway with a couple of candles lol!

[Envoy CDX]

I remember those days well. That said the yaris headlights are not much bettee currently

[Robsey]

Cavalier headlamps have never been super-bright.
That is why I fitted Osram Nightbreakers.

The problem with the Yaris is the acrylic lenses.
They naturally go dull and yellow in uv light.

I had the same on our Vectra-C.. cloudy yellowed acryllic.
New headlamps made a huge difference.

Thankfully the Cavalier has glass lenses, so one thing less to wrong.

[Envoy CDX]

The problem with the Yaris is the acrylic lenses.
They naturally go dull and yellow in uv light.

Aye, ended up buying new ones.

[cavalier1990]

So, just thought I'd throw this thought out there, note I've not committed to it yet but seriously considering it.... a cav V6 is breaking near me and the guy still has the car there with all the bits, engine out & and it's a manual. I was planning putting a better 1.8 in (which I've already got) this Year and do a bit of work in the engine bay while I had the engine out. Now I'm thinking v6, why not, if all the bits are there.

I know I'll need to do all the suspension etc and will need all the wiring loom, rad etc. etc. but exciting thought nonetheless. How would electrics work with fuel pump etc, will the pump need uprated, that's the bit that gets me, I wouldn't need the complete loom just the bit with ECU (I think) but I'd have the loom anyway as it's being taken out by the guy, said just the bit along the front to remove.

I then started thinking I could put the whole lot in the diplomat, and put the 2 litre out of that in the LS, but then I thought I really wanted to keep the dippy totally original. hmm decisions!

[Robsey]

The V6 will need a cooling fan and ducting for the alternator.
Unless you fit a Vectra-B V6 alternator as they have an integral cooling fan.

Also wouldn't you be needing the traction control too.?

On the face of it, it should be more or less plug and play for the engine and loom itself.

But there is a lot more involved.
Uprated suspension, uprated brakes, uprated subframe.
Lots of uprated stuff required to allow the chassis to cope with the bigger, heavier and more torquey lump.

And remember - if you thought the C20NE or C18NZ were needy little critters... the V6 is a lot more needy and involved to keep it happy on the road.

[cavalier1990]

The V6 will need a cooling fan and ducting for the alternator.
Unless you fit a Vectra-B V6 alternator as they have an integral cooling fan.

Also wouldn't you be needing the traction control too.?

On the face of it, it should be more or less plug and play for the engine and loom itself.

But there is a lot more involved.
Uprated suspension, uprated brakes, uprated subframe.
Lots of uprated stuff required to allow the chassis to cope with the bigger, heavier and more torquey lump.

And remember - if you thought the C20NE or C18NZ were needy little critters... the V6 is a lot more needy and involved to keep it happy on the road.

Good points Robsey The guy has what looks like a new/recon subframe for the V6 and the full exhaust system, I'm also due a rebuild of the front struts, so can uprate at the time, and can upgrade the brakes easy enough. I'm not sure about the alternator, the engine is complete out of the car so that would be on it I would imagine?

Traction control did the V6 come standard with TC? Indeed lots to think about, but overall as you say plug and play I would think for the main parts of it.

I never take the simple route always got to throw a curve ball lol, but it's one of those things, once you get the idea, you can't get it out of your head!

[Robsey]

Yes - I know that feeling very well -

But I also realise that I am not getting any younger or richer. So I am not knowingly taking on any more vehicles or major changes.

[cavalier1990]

Am I right in saying the speedo is electronic rather than cable driven?

[Robsey]

I think most 1995 vehicles were indeed electronic speedos, taking their speed from the ABS ring via the ABS module - blue / red wire.

Cannot say if pre-1995 V6s had electronic speedo though.
Visually they look the same - electronic and mechanical.
- to my eyes anyway.

If you'd asked 10 days ago, I would have been able to look at James' V6 CDX... but I think that is on a 95 M plate anyway.

[chrisp]

I'm pretty sure my 1993 V6 has an electronically driven speedo. The V6 did indeed come standard with traction control - this worked off the ABS sensors and then had a motor driven override on the normal cable operated throttle.
As well as the upgrades mentioned by Robsey, the V6 also has uprated driveshafts - they are larger in diameter than the normal Cavalier ones

[cavalier1990]

I was wondering why the guy was saying I would need the clocks. Never thought it'd be anything other than cable driven speedo, especially at that age of car.

The clocks on the face of it (no pun intended) look exactly the same, a mechancial driven clock. If the clocks are totally different then I'd need to take the mileage from that clock rather than mine, which doesn't make sense, and is illegal I'd imagine.

Regarding driveshafts, if the bearing diameter on the hubs are the same then it would be a straight swap I'd imagine or is it bigger hubs as well? Going to have a look and see if I can find an example of a similar engine change & see what more's involved.

[chrisp]

Not sure about the hubs not having a non-V6 to compare with, but I recall when I replaced the front brake calipers, discs and pads these were larger than non-V6 ones as I had a bit of trouble sourcing them.