M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

[cavalier1990]

Starting to sound like something I might pass on, it sounds all good but I've also got to think about fuel economy, this being my main runaround. As well as that as Robsey said the maintenance of the engine like coil packs, leaking rockers, timing belt etc. I've already got that cost with the omegas lol! The thought of doing a straight swap with the better 1.8 engine I already have sounds a lot more appealing.

Thanks for all input so far anyhoo.

[chrisp]

Timing belt replacement on the V6 is a bit of a performance because, with 4 camshaft sprockets, 2 idler pulleys and a tensioner pulley to go round, it's huge!
I've managed to do it on my V6 without the special tools and camshaft locking pieces, but it's easier (though still time-consuming) with them. Access is not good either - but just about manageable once you've removed the the air cleaner box, its associated trunking, the auxiliary drive belt, the power steering pump pulley, the water pump pulley, the auxiliary belt spring tensioner unit (bolts behind the engine and a PITA to reach), the RH front wheel and the crankshaft pulley. Oh, and to get the air cleaner box out you have to loosen the RH headlight because the air intake is trapped beneath it. And to get to one of the bolts holding in the headlight you have to remove the front grill. Once you've done all that, you can just about get to the 4 (inevitably rusty) bolts securing the timing belt cover.
During the 113,000 miles I had my V6 I've done this job a couple of times and it's not one I look forward to!
Still, the V6 is a very smooth and powerful engine and it does make the Cavalier feel a bit more luxurious.
Oh yes, I've just remembered - to get to the 3 spark plugs on the rear bank of the V you have to remove the inlet manifold, disconnecting first a whole load of associated gubbins.
Despite the V6's attractions, I think you might be right in thinking twice about doing a conversion to it.

[cavalier1990]

Timing belt replacement on the V6 is a bit of a performance because, with 4 camshaft sprockets, 2 idler pulleys and a tensioner pulley to go round, it's huge!
I've managed to do it on my V6 without the special tools and camshaft locking pieces, but it's easier (though still time-consuming) with them. Access is not good either - but just about manageable once you've removed the the air cleaner box, its associated trunking, the auxiliary drive belt, the power steering pump pulley, the water pump pulley, the auxiliary belt spring tensioner unit (bolts behind the engine and a PITA to reach), the RH front wheel and the crankshaft pulley. Oh, and to get the air cleaner box out you have to loosen the RH headlight because the air intake is trapped beneath it. And to get to one of the bolts holding in the headlight you have to remove the front grill. Once you've done all that, you can just about get to the 4 (inevitably rusty) bolts securing the timing belt cover.
During the 113,000 miles I had my V6 I've done this job a couple of times and it's not one I look forward to!
Still, the V6 is a very smooth and powerful engine and it does make the Cavalier feel a bit more luxurious.
Oh yes, I've just remembered - to get to the 3 spark plugs on the rear bank of the V you have to remove the inlet manifold, disconnecting first a whole load of associated gubbins.
Despite the V6's attractions, I think you might be right in thinking twice about doing a conversion to it.

Yeah I've definitely shelved that idea, would be nice but I haven't got the time to do all the extra work and for not really much gain and plenty of loss (fuel). I just done the belt on my omega elite, I can imagine doing that on a cavalier must be a nightmare, I've not got the smallest hands, or much patience, so you can imagine!

[cavalier1990]

I recently bought a refurbished "Vectra A" rear axle from a place in Germany, where I had also got a refurb'd front subframe. The subframe looked really well done, looked like a new subframe for all intents and purposes and was happy with it, so had no quams getting the rear axle. When I looked at the images on their site they said the axle was listed as for a vectra A but the picture looked like the same one they had listed for a calibra/astra F.

https://achse24.de/ger_m_PKW_Opel_Vectr ... 2_3%5D=290

I enquired about this and they said it was just an example picture and the correct axle pic for the vectra would be updated. I took the plunge and ordered the axle and when it arrived it was the one in the picture, which I could see was cosmetically different to the cavalier axle, and was likely for the astra F. I looked on an opel catalog at the astra F axle and I could see it was definitely that one.

However, after measuring the distance between the bush mountings and the hub mountings I was cautiously optomistic that it might actually be ok to fit this to the cavalier. I also checked the mounting plate for the hub, the bolt holes and th angle of the mounting plate and they all look the exact same. The only big difference I can see is the beam between each side, where the bend in the cavalier's beam peaks pointing upwards, the astra ones faces forward and is slightly different on the inside and the roll bar I think would be totally different.

THe proof will be in the pudding of course so fingers crossed it works. You can see the pics below of the axle from the diplomat, which is due another paint with 2 pack primer, and the astra axle.

In this pic it looks like the angle of the mounting plate on the astra one is more than the cavalier one, but it's just the angle of the way the picture was taken.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JzCvyLoeDPPT5idX6

This is them sitting upright side by side, got to squint to see the cavalier one at the back:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4C8XFBrUdYBjmH8Y9

This is looking down at the bottom of both axles:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pZSrr6xquGXkrb7y8

I think as long as the main mounting points like the distance between bushes and hubs are the same then should be in with a fair shout of it fitting ok.

I've been severely delayed recently with one thing and another, I've got the cavy off the road now and got the omega on the road. I'm hoping to start stripping the engine out the cavy starting this month, and into next month I can start doing repairs on the front end.

[ilovedmymantas]

I don't mind generic pics but do expect different part numbers, not the case in this advert.

[cavalier1990]

Well it looked like the decision to buy a new front member was a good one, the one on mine is rotten as a pear, especially below the N/S below the radiator. i've been stripping the front end down in prep for removing engine, and it looks like the front panel has seen better days too, might try and source one and replace it while I'm in there.

Rot below radiator:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2QhGptzaQTj6FnDf8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aaFqSK2VcXrQGMvK8

front end stripping started:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YpoTQSayvWXFcd8j9

[Robsey]

Wow, that looks very poorly.

Mine was amazingly solid compared - but it had been repaired 3 times prior to the restoration.

All simple panel work for a man of your caliper.

[3cav3]

That does look bad, luckily my Cavalier still looks like it left the factory and even my van only needed a small repair in the O/s corner where it had been accident damaged, and probably left unpainted when it was straightened.
Has your Cav spent time by the sea or is a repair needed on a lot of them down there?
*EDIT* Just re read through the thread and can see a lot of similarity in the rust locations and my Van , guess it was something that Vauxhall built in at the factory. Hats off to you for putting all the work in to save the old girl. I know only too well how much effort and time is involved.

[cavalier1990]

It is quite bad, i'm sure I could poke a few more holes in it along the top section, and where I couldn't it's that flaky pastry stuff.

I guess as it's a kind of hidden part and gets all the weather hitting it that's why it's in such a nick, plus any water leaks and condensation from rad coming down on it. In saying that I replaced the radiator only a couple of years ago and I don't remember the rubber mount hole being that bad, the mount rubber stuck to the bottom of the rad and pulled what was left of the metal out along with the rad when I removed it!

Already bagged a front panel, both bottom corner side panels as they are toast

15 & 21 in this diagram:

https://opel.catalogs-parts.com/#{clien ... up:4-2}#21

The little mounting plates for front panels

8 & 9 in this diagram

https://opel.catalogs-parts.com/#{clien ... group:1-0}

and already have the front member as I said but has some surface crud from storage so will be bathing that in the rust tank to get it cleaned.

Got to say the front end of the cavy is made up of a surprising number of small parts for edges, corners etc.

Some of the parts coming from Germany, one from UK, & one from Norway!

Still looking for the little long panel along under the headlights, not holding out much hope as never seen an OE one for sale

No 10 here:
https://opel.catalogs-parts.com/#{clien ... up:1-0}#10

Done a wee video of it you can see it all a bit better how crusty it is.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/TUJtmkUg5Uutwjqf6

The power steering pipes aren't that old and looking pretty bad already. They are also not quite the right ones for this model but fitted, they are chaffing under the top rad hose as you can see at start of video so need to try and reposition the pipe, very difficult as it's at the bit where it is solid pipe that loops into the steering pump.

[cavalier1990]

Today's job, I'm not wanting to get covered in grime as going out later, so decided to start stripping the dash out, can't get too mucky doing that right? This is so I can fix the bulkhead rust properly, need the dash, well really the air box, out of the way.

Does anyone know how to unclip this bowden cable, got the other 2 off, nice simple clip and spring wire on first 2, but this one looks like a metal crocs mouth/tooth thing that holds the cable.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kjyv7qgU6SeFy4De7

Thanks

Andy

[cavalier1990]

I've now got all the parts listed above including the illustrious headlamp panel, pricey but original GM. Pic below:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VYLmCqFQHR3VBAg2A

The front panel was also quite expensive considering it was a copy panel made in Taiwan or somewhere like that. Granted it looks ok but you can tell it's non-original and a bit thin on the skin in places. Not sure whether to just cut my losses and plum with that or go for klohkkerholm, I've also askied my GM contact if he can source the orignal front panel, I stupidly bought that copy one and it was nearly 200 nicker don't know what drugs I was on when I done that! If the GM one is available and it's reasonable price I might just go for it. Costly hobby but I don't see the point scrimping on cheap panels which you're probably only going to buy once and if you're never happy with it whats the point of saving a few bucks for that!

Next job is to start ripping the front end off and get the engine out. The dash stripping has stopped as I need to work out how to get that cable off wihtout busting it. I should be able to get the dash and air box out in a day once I get that cable off.

[Robsey]

That clip should just be sprung steel, so either tease the wire sideways out of the metal gripper, or

Gently pry the metal clip up and away from the plastic lever.
There should be a small hole in the metal clip,
The hole in the clip sits and locates over a small wedge shaped protrusion on top of the plastic lever.
So you just need to lever upwards enough for the hole to clear the plastic lug / tang.

It is quite sturdy plastic, so it should not break whilst you lever off the metal clip.

[cavalier1990]

Cheers Robsey, will have a look at this when I get back from a small break away this week. Hopefully enough recuperation for me to get some more wind in my sails and get on with removing the rest of it!

[cavalier1990]

I ended up taking the cable off the other end at the bottom of the airbox next to the clutch pedal. Bit of a faff pulling it through to the other end but saved me taking that metal clip thingy off.

I've now got the dash, airbox and wiper motor out so plenty of progress over the last couple of days. I've also got all the panels bar the slam panel for the front end. The slam panel is on order and should be with me in 10 days or so. Once I get those they will be put in for paint. Hopefully can get them done before going on holidays, then that's them ready for me when I come back.

I've done a pile of videos and uploaded the first one to my wee youtube channel so I'll put up the other ones over the next Week or so. Don't want to upload 5 videos all at once if that makes sense. I had issue with gopro SD card it was needing reformatted and was playing up a bit when I recorded videos, so now when I do a video I immediately load it onto an external hard drive so it's off the camera SD card and I don't lose it.

The first video is just putting the front lower subframe in the rust bath, then a wee intro to the dash removal work I've done. The crossmember is now primed and as I mentioned the whole dash and everything is out now. Here's the link to the first video, enjoy:

https://youtu.be/FTkB4hmUUo0

[cavalier1990]

Spent a bit of time this morning getting wiring looms out the way and taking the ignition switch off and the earth cable from the steering bracket so I could move the whole loom out of the way of the drivers side. Late morning we got a burst of heavy rain so I ditched the work. After the worst of it was over I went out for a look see if i could see where this leak was coming from.

When I opened the door, I could see a small puddle sitting right in the lowest section where the rubber drain plug is, so traced it back and it was coming down the side of the A pillar somewhere.

You can see in this image the water at the bottom of the inside part of the pillar area.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7n7MPsykK1DU5tJa6

I got here from tracing the run of water from the floor back the way.

From here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SQJxPvSHQKf8JeU47

I tried tracing it up the way towards the end of the scuttle area, where there is a brown streak running down from there but I think I fixed this a couple of years ago. I couldn't see any water from that area, but will investigate further when weather is better. It is quite crusty up in that area although a lot of flakes came out when I was prodding my finger about couldn't feel any rotten bits.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/SshAsSkskX3mvDhv6

[Robsey]

I am sure you will have a much better view when the dash is out.

It made a huge difference in my van.

If the water is getting in on the driver's side, then make sure that the ECU and all the connectors, relay, and central locking unit are not getting wet.

Just for info...
When I converted from C18NZ to C20NE, the NE ECU came with a clear plastic sheet draped over the top, from the rear to the front.
I assume this is to prevent fluids dripping / running down over the ECU.
It reminds me of 'overhead projector' film.

Another check point is the elephant's trunk in the centre of the scuttle. Especially if you have not moved the car for a while, or if you park under / near a tree.

[cavalier1990]

Hi Rob

I know the sheet you are talking about, there is one on the senator but looks like the cavy doesn't have one. I've taken the 2 plugs out the bottom of the ECU unit and will remove it to see how everything looks. I think the water is running straight down the pillar to the floor, doesn't look like it's getting into anything electrical thankfully.

I've got a bit of sticky tape over the edge where the airbox goes, next to the elephant trunk. This is to stop the water building up to the level of the trunk and overflowing into the cabin. Looking into it from the cabin, the trunk bottom lip is higher than the airbox lip so it will overflow with airbox out. While the area around the airbox was looking a bit messy I had sealed it all up and I don't think it was leaking in there. I will of course re-seal it and make sure it is completely water tight on rebuild.

Cheers

Andy

[cavalier1990]

i'm now on the lookout for a foldable engine crane, after having a look for a 2nd hand one I couldn't see anything suitable close by, most of them were not foldable, so have plummed for getting a new one. I've not fully decided yet on the particular model, probably a sealey or clarke one. I'm also trying to watch the pennies this month, as I'm just back from a Month's holiday and spent a big chunk of cash.

I'm also going to get some fabric electrical tape to fix all the crumbling insulation on the under dash wiring loom. I'm hoping the fabric stuff looks a bit more professional. As well as this I can't stand normal electrical tape, it's hard to cut and sore on your hands when you're winding it round and round a cable

So get engine crane probably in a week or so and I can do the engine out bit and strip even more stuff off. Oh the joys!

[Robsey]

I used a nursing home type crane (hoist) when I did my engine transplant in 2012.

See this thread....

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=6685

Worked a treat. I bet there are loads around following house clearances.
Social Services are very poor at taking back equipment when people have passed away.

For fabric tape, I think 15mm Tesa tape is the nearest to OEM look.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tesa-15mm-Adhe ... 2153&psc=1

I use 9mm width for my projects.

[cavalier1990]

I bought 4 rolls of fibre tape off of Amazon, it's 20mm wide and seems lot easier to work with than traditional electrical tape. For the engine lift I ended up pluming for a Clarke CFC100 1 Tonne folding crane, it came with an optional clark cll500 load leveller, which the combined price was about the same as another supplier for only the crane.

For the wiring I really just want to give it a once over and a tidy up. The wire feed for the central locking is one of the bits I need to fix properly., although it kept breaking off because I had the spade connector right down at the footwell and the kickplate cover has been off for a while, so it was getting all the foot kicks and water off my shoes when getting in and out resulting in the wire on the spade corroding and fraying. Lets hope I remember where everything goes back on!

[Robsey]

After 30 years since it left the factory, I have found a lot of the fabric tape had lost it's adhesion and sagged off the looms.

The looms affected were behind the dash,
and also the loom across the front of the front passenger seat to the window switches.

[cavalier1990]

I spent a couple of hours removing what loose tape I could and taping up the loom with the new stuff. no doubt, sods law and cavalier payback will dictate I have to remove it to fault find something lol! I need to do a bit more work on the loom including fixing that feed wire for the central locking.

I now have my engine crane and load leveller so the next step is to whip out the engine. I think I'll do it engine only and leave the box in, I've never removed a cavalier engine so think this might be easier to drop the box out on it's own.

Once that's out I can get the steering rack and servo unit off as well as the bulkhead foam and fix all the rust. I think the rack has some play in the pinion shaft so will probably get it sent away for recon. Also need to replace the master cylinder seals as I seen the end of it is leaking a little bit. Plenty to keep me busy then!

[Robsey]

Engine only is quite a tight job to do.
But do-able.

I had to do it that way for my engine swap many years ago.
My bottom ball joints refused to release meaning that I could not get the drive shafts out, and thus pinning the box in place.

Sounds like fun times ahead.

[3cav3]

I spent a couple of hours removing what loose tape I could and taping up the loom with the new stuff. no doubt, sods law and cavalier payback will dictate I have to remove it to fault find something lol! I need to do a bit more work on the loom including fixing that feed wire for the central locking.

I now have my engine crane and load leveller so the next step is to whip out the engine. I think I'll do it engine only and leave the box in, I've never removed a cavalier engine so think this might be easier to drop the box out on it's own.

Once that's out I can get the steering rack and servo unit off as well as the bulkhead foam and fix all the rust. I think the rack has some play in the pinion shaft so will probably get it sent away for recon. Also need to replace the master cylinder seals as I seen the end of it is leaking a little bit. Plenty to keep me busy then!

Obviously you'll have to do it the way you feel best, but I found it easiest on my astra to drop it out as a complete unit through the bottom, personally I then used a forklift to lift the front of it up over the engine but there's no reason an engine crane couldn't do the same. I never did manage to release the one drive shaft out the box, so left it attached.

[cavalier1990]

Engine only is quite a tight job to do.
But do-able.

I had to do it that way for my engine swap many years ago.
My bottom ball joints refused to release meaning that I could not get the drive shafts out, and thus pinning the box in place.

Sounds like fun times ahead.

I'm planning to drop the box out the side, I done this before when changing the flywheel to the old type with the quick release clutch. Once that's done I can lift the engine out. Took the subframe out yesterday, and almost had rounded bolt heads on the back subframe bolts. Had to hammer an impact socket on and gingerly release them. They seemed to be almost seized in place.

Then I forgot to put a jack under the box to hold it up and the subframe came crashing down - nearly on my hand lol. Fun times indeed!