M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

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cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Ste wrote:A clunk when accelerating or braking would have me thinking along the lines of an engine or gearbox mount possibly.

But definitely check that your callipers are sitting properly!!
Calipers are tight but I wonder if it is the holders themselves that are worn a bit, as it recon caliper so some of the rust/pitted bound to have been blasted off. I also get a small clunk when pulling away, which is odd but might be pad pulling back round a little.
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Envoy CDX wrote:Nice progress though :D
Cheers Envoy, it really has been a labour of love!
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Ste
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Ste »

cavalier1990 wrote:
Ste wrote:A clunk when accelerating or braking would have me thinking along the lines of an engine or gearbox mount possibly.

But definitely check that your callipers are sitting properly!!
Calipers are tight but I wonder if it is the holders themselves that are worn a bit, as it recon caliper so some of the rust/pitted bound to have been blasted off. I also get a small clunk when pulling away, which is odd but might be pad pulling back round a little.
I'd possibly still be thinking down the gearbox/engine mount route. If the pads were moving slightly in the carriers I doubt you'd feel it.

If you're driving along and let off the accelerator and then hit the accelerator again is there a clunk? Or is it only when moving off?
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Ste wrote:
cavalier1990 wrote:
Ste wrote:A clunk when accelerating or braking would have me thinking along the lines of an engine or gearbox mount possibly.

But definitely check that your callipers are sitting properly!!
Calipers are tight but I wonder if it is the holders themselves that are worn a bit, as it recon caliper so some of the rust/pitted bound to have been blasted off. I also get a small clunk when pulling away, which is odd but might be pad pulling back round a little.
I'd possibly still be thinking down the gearbox/engine mount route. If the pads were moving slightly in the carriers I doubt you'd feel it.

If you're driving along and let off the accelerator and then hit the accelerator again is there a clunk? Or is it only when moving off?
I only hear this when moving off or braking, a little clink then if I hit the brakes under a bit of speed I can hear a quite dramatic clunk, sometimes sounds like a crack if I brake harder, quite alarming sound sometimes to be honest, so worse when lots of braking force.

If I am driving along and prod the gas on and off I don't hear anything. Tried doing the bonnet up and clutch in and out so I can watch the engine and it looks quite tight in it's mounts. I've also got a brand new mount on the back of the box, which eliminates that one at least.

I've looked at the bottom arm, which is new, the anti-roll links, tightness of subframe and arm bolts, top mount is new (on both sides), checked steering knuckle for play and rack input shaft, and also steering tie rods, which again seems fine. The sound does really sound like it's right in front of driver area, top of mount, strut area.

So yeah a bit of a head scratcher :?:
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by iangsi »

Could be brake pads to small moving inside the calliper doesn't take much movement to make a lot of sound, get it on axle stands wheels off run it in gear get someone to brake & watch what happens, rear brake shoes sticking inside the drum.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

iangsi wrote:Could be brake pads to small moving inside the calliper doesn't take much movement to make a lot of sound, get it on axle stands wheels off run it in gear get someone to brake & watch what happens, rear brake shoes sticking inside the drum.
I'm really convinced now that this isn't the problem, I would if it was only breaking but get it also when accelerating and over lumpy surfaces, not so much potholes. Funnily enough not heard much from it the last few weeks, hope it's not the silence before the fall! I'm convinced something to so with lower arm. Wondering if the little collars inside the vertical bushing are missing, if that might moving back and forward a little.
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Envoy CDX
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Envoy CDX »

Well, I had a similar "clunk" it was a combination of the lower (rear) arm bolt being slack and the lack of the collet's .
Check the Rules!

Raw 8v Power! - Bad Cav, Naughty Cav... Cav want's to do 90!

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cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Envoy CDX wrote:Well, I had a similar "clunk" it was a combination of the lower (rear) arm bolt being slack and the lack of the collet's .
The bolt is tight, hence my sherlock moment thinking that it must therefore be the little collets too. Will need to strip arm off and see what's happening in there.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Got the gears fixed without replacing the big selector rod. It appears that just changing the little rubber doughnut bush thingy on the gear lever is enough to sort it. I had to re-align the lever and the box though. Gears are very smooth and tight now, plus also replaced gearlever boot.

I was going to change the gear knob but I couldn't seem to see how to get the little plastic bit on top with 1,2,3,4,5,R on it off, it seems part of the old knob, the new one has a space where it goes. Anyone know how it's set it and how to remove without destroying it?
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

The how 2 says -
stick the knob-top into a bucket of hot water until the plastic softens / expands.
Then pull it firmly from the shaft.

Think that is what all the manuals / guides suggest too.
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:The how 2 says -
stick the knob-top into a bucket of hot water until the plastic softens / expands.
Then pull it firmly from the shaft.

Think that is what all the manuals / guides suggest too.
Robsey I was meaning the little bit with the gear numbers on it on top of gear knob. The new gearknob has a space where it goes but the old one looks part of the whole gearknob, so I wasn't sure if it was bonded on or something.
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

On my original Cav gear lever knob, the number panel is built / embossed into the leather body of the knob.

My replacement (Astra F) knob assembly looks like a bonded on round metallic cap.

On my Vectra-C, it is a detatchable moulded alloy insert that levers out.

So with all that in mind -
If your number panel looks like a separate piece from the main knob body, I am assuming that it will lever off.

I use the dished part of a desert spoon to "lever off" many such parts.

However, without having your particular model of gear stick here to look at, I would not be able to advise fully.
I would not be very happy if you damaged your lever assembly after following my comments.
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:On my original Cav gear lever knob, the number panel is built / embossed into the leather body of the knob.

My replacement (Astra F) knob assembly looks like a bonded on round metallic cap.

On my Vectra-C, it is a detatchable moulded alloy insert that levers out.

So with all that in mind -
If your number panel looks like a separate piece from the main knob body, I am assuming that it will lever off.

I use the dished part of a desert spoon to "lever off" many such parts.

However, without having your particular model of gear stick here to look at, I would not be able to advise fully.
I would not be very happy if you damaged your lever assembly after following my comments.
Pretty sure it's one piece but diagram shows it as 2 pieces, number 4 being the little plate with numbers and no 3 the gearknob.

http://ecat24.com/opel/catalog/part/1/39/348/987/9884/

Need to have another look at it right enough.

Cheers
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

cavalier1990 wrote:
On drivers side I can not really get 3 fingers through the gap but on NS can get 3 in quite easily with a gap left.

This is really baffling me now, nothing is loose, nothing seems worn, apart from top rubber mount on N/S yet I have this wheel out of line and this clunking noise all the time. Any thoughts would be very much appreciated.
I managed to sort this uneven gap between sides. Drivers side arm had the lateral rear arm bush that was hollow so it seemed to sink back a bit as it was very soft bush. I replaced the whole arm with a new one I had. This had the solid rear bush and the gap is now perfect. Car feels a bit better on the road too.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Some wee jobs today including replace ICV and rocker gasket as it was looking a bit leaky. Also cleaned up the back of the sill and lower rear wheelarch as it was rusting and put some rust eater on it. I'd actually put new metal on the back of the sill but hadn't got round to properly painting it yet so it had started rusting. I think looking at the arches they are not going to get any better and I have to keep fixing them so probably replace them this year hopefully. Next job I want to get the stat replaced. Haven't heard back from autovaux yet on the correct number for it so will am chasing that up.
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James McGrath
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by James McGrath »

The right thermostat part number for all big block 8v engines is 90571273.

Remember to get hold of a new seal ring too, part number 9129998.
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

James McGrath wrote:The right thermostat part number for all big block 8v engines is 90571273.

Remember to get hold of a new seal ring too, part number 9129998.
Cheers James I was having a bit of trouble trying to ID that so much appreciated. Will also get new seal ring too.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Managed to get a wee bit of overdue work in today. Changed stat and oil. I was a bit apprehensive about one or more of the 3 stat bolts breaking, but came off quite nicely. I did apply some heat before hand and in the process managed to melt a little bit of the hot air pipe sleeve on the air filter box, as in pic below. Was fine though as air pipe went back on after chipping off some of the melted plastic.

Image

Stat removed. Plenty of copper grease when reinstating bolts.
Image

Just glad I have 2 spare non-rusty bonnets lol as mine has defo seen better days
Image
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Robsey
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Robsey »

I would look after your bonnet insulation...
It is stupidly expensive to replace.

Nice little jobs you have been upto there.
Yes those pesky stat bolts do often like to chemically weld into the alloy castings.

Nice to see a Cavalier letting you fix it for a change.
Normally they like to fight you at every possible opportunity. And they usually win.
Darn it!!
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Robsey wrote:I would look after your bonnet insulation...
It is stupidly expensive to replace.

Nice little jobs you have been upto there.
Yes those pesky stat bolts do often like to chemically weld into the alloy castings.

Nice to see a Cavalier letting you fix it for a change.
Normally they like to fight you at every possible opportunity. And they usually win.
Darn it!!
You're right about the bonnet insulation being stupidly expensive, it appears to be now standing at 159 buckeroonies from GPS, so came down a bit from the £213 it originally was!

So glad the bolts came out, I think I might have been in there before and copper greased them as they didn't look rusty and loosened quite easily. Naturally I always first tighten them a tad to crack any rust in the threads. Reason being if you try cracking the seal while also loosening it can shear the head off much easier. I'm sure you, Robsey, know that trick with rusty bolts but just helpful for anyone else not in the know.

All in all seems to be running a damn sight smoother with nice golden oil topped up to 1/2 way between min/max and nice warm engine, and hopefully a bit better on the gas too. I also changed the rocker gasket a couple of weeks ago, gave that a wee nip up as the bolts always seem to be slack on these. Also fixed the oil filler cap, seemed to be leaking slightly so took the rubber seal out, cleaned it, turned it over and bent the little lock lugs in a bit so that it was tighter against the cam cover.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Looks like I'm going to have to have a look at my drivers seat as it appears to be a bit clunky and loose, it seems like the back rest is a bit wobbly. Not sure if I can swap it over with the passenger seat as I already swapped the foam sitting bit. Also need to look into water ingress in the passenger side. Seem to be a big puddle after washing it the other day. Drivers side seems a tad wet too. I think the whole scuttle area could do with being rebuilt as it's probably rotten under there.

For that I would probably have to take the engine out, and that would obviously spawn some other work I would like to do (maybe slot in a 2.0) but mainly fix the bulkhead. Might put it off the road for a while later in year if I can get my other one out the garage over summer.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Quick update on the blue machine - MOT up in 2 weeks so started having a dig about it last night. Couple of bits of rust that are borderline needing welding, but a small patch up for now. Those were the strengthener box section in front of the rear wheel, up behind back of sill, Drivers side looks pretty bad inside, one of the factory holes in it was starting to crumble so cleaned it off and used my various tricks to make it look a bit more round again!

Back of boot floor above exhaust has a bit square patch that is rusting and will need filled. Back floor on N/S is a bit crumbly so I cleaned this up and put sealer over it for now. No actual holes although the floor pan was starting to split a little where that lip of metal has been rusting ever inwards. Surprised this hasn't disintegrated as it's been rusty for quite a few years.

Unsurprisingly the patches I done last year are now starting to rust through. I'm not surprised as the metal was rusty after I welded it due to flash rusting of the metal repair sheet.

Adjusted back brakes up as the handbrake was becoming a bit of an armrest, and while N/S rear wheel was off I noticed the spring had broken more or less the top 1/3 section had pushed inside the other bit and the other bit had pushed up and hit the mount plate, bending it upwards. This was the cheapy mount plates I made up, which are also rusting now!

Image

Since I had 2 springs off my dippy lying in garage guess what got salvaged? So that was the spring replaced and the plate straightened out. So glad I copper slipped the shocker bolts.

So generally the back of the car seems to be the worst, the front has it's problems yes, but the sills, floor look generally ok with only a few rust bubbles on the sills. Famous last words.

Will be getting more done as the week goes on and will hopefully post up some pics.
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Not been up to much with my old workhorse other than order a radiator, I've now got some evidence of water leak from the drivers side of rad, so plummed and bought a new one. Will be fitted in due course, however I can keep it going with a top up and I only drive short distance to work so no problems with overheating. I am kind of suspecting that the rad has maybe been leaking for some time as I always seemed to lose a little water over time but couldn't really find it. Now when car gets to temp I see a wisp of steam swirl up and I think that is the water starting to circulate from the stat, then it seems to dry up and the temp goes up past 90, then down. Not really any issues with overheating though, although if it was summer think it would be a different story.

Found a blue cav hatch same colour and trim as mine lying at back of tyre shop, looks like it has been sitting somewhere for a long time and rusted away a good bit. Phoned up the place to find out about it but the guy that is dealing with it is not there, and is back tomorrow, apparently it is for breaking, hope I can get a fair few bits off of it.

Robsey - if you need any hatch stuff :)
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Mk3alan
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by Mk3alan »

I had a leak, same area, decided it was the rad and bought/fitted another.
Thought I would pressure test the original in the bath, guess what - no leak!
It was the clip on the top hose, so fitted the original rad back and it's been fine ever since!

Alan
cavalier1990
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Re: M Plate 1.8LS Saloon

Post by cavalier1990 »

Mk3alan wrote:I had a leak, same area, decided it was the rad and bought/fitted another.
Thought I would pressure test the original in the bath, guess what - no leak!
It was the clip on the top hose, so fitted the original rad back and it's been fine ever since!

Alan
That's my worry now lol!
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