James' 1995 Manual CDX V6 Saloon

[cavalier1990]

Anyone know who made the original parts? I've seen some Delphi ones for a reasonable price.

Was told Delphi made the original vx arms so assume same for bushes.

[James McGrath]

Just triple checked the EML light codes again and I got it wrong again, it's not code 16 it's code 61 for a fuel tank vent valve.
Despite wasting money on a new nock sensor I'm relieved that I don't have to fit it.
I did have a look the other day and it looks like a nightmare of a job as it's behind the rear manifold heat shield.

So I've got 13 which has new been fixed
61 - fuel tank vent valve voltage low
144 - No immobiliser signal

Pretty dam sure this is right now.
What does a fuel tank vent valve even do?

[humbucker]

All modern cars are equipped with an Evaporative Emission Control (EVAP) system. The EVAP system prevents fuel vapours from the fuel tank from escaping into the atmosphere. The EVAP system collects and temporarily stores the fuel vapours in a charcoal canister. The charcoal canister is filled with activated carbon pellets that can absorb the vapours. When the engine is running, the fuel vapours are purged from the canister and burned in the engine.

The vent control valve (solenoid) simply controls the flow of outside air in and out of the charcoal canister. One side of the vent valve is connected to the charcoal canister. Another side is connected to a vent hose that has a filter or screen at the end and is attached to the car body or frame. In some cars, the vent valve is attached to the canister. In others, it's installed separately near the canister. The vent valve is controlled by the ECU. Normally, the vent valve is open. It closes when the engine computer tests the EVAP system for leaks. If a leak in the EVAP system is detected, the EML will illuminate on the dash and the trouble code related to the problem will be stored.

[James McGrath]

OK, so I've been doing a bit of exploration around the engine bay.

I finally managed to find the auxiliary cooling pump. It's to the off side of the radiator, right at the bottom edge. I got to it by removing the air box.
Here you can just about see it in the very centre of the photo:




On V6s if the cooling fan is on when you switch the engine on, it will remain on when you turn the engine off. When this happens the radiator is cooled and goes stone cold but all the pipes remain boiling hot. Suggesting that the water isn't circulating so I'm pretty sure the pump isn't working. This is what I think caused it to overheat a month or two back.

I want to test it but I'm not sure how, it's so hard to get to.


Here is the fuel tank vent valve on the near side of the engine just under the edge of the intake manifold. I've already ordered a new one of these, hopefully it will arrive ASAP:




Can anyone tell me what this fan is for? it's under the black cowling to the near side of the engine. It was stuck solid when I first exposed it. I've used a bit of WD40 on it to get it moving again.




I also painted the back box ready to be fitted:

Before:



After:



Pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I am going to miss the MOT deadline tomorrow.
Slowly gathering parts for it though. So far I have got a new genuine number plate lamp unit, the new genuine back box, new genuine drivers side heated wing mirror glass, 4 new genuine radius arm bush sleeves, a used genuine drivers headlamp, new OEM fuel tank vent valve and 2 new Delphi radius arms.
Yep my next update is going to be a long one.

[James McGrath]

Interesting about the fuel tank vent valve Dan.

So if I have code 61, does that mean I have a problem with the vent valve itself or do I have a leak in the system?

[Lowrider Dave]

That fan is something unique to V6s - it cools the alternator. It relies upon and pulls in naturally flowing air from the front of the car - via the black plastic duct that attaches to the electrically driven fan.

[Robsey]

Agreed - that is an alternator cooling fan.

If you have had a C20NE engine, then you will have a vent valve that looks just like yours towards the middle on the inlet side (back of) the camshaft housing.

[James McGrath]

So there should be a hose of some sort leading from the fan to the alternator?

Just I don't appear to have one.

[tonyo]

Agreed - that is an alternator cooling fan.

If you have had a C20NE engine, then you will have a vent valve that looks just like yours towards the middle on the inlet side (back of) the camshaft housing.

Thankyou! I'd always wondered what that was on mine! I knew it must have been something environmental, cause the 20ne on the GTE doesnt have it..

[Lowrider Dave]

So there should be a hose of some sort leading from the fan to the alternator?

Just I don't appear to have one.

Yes, there should be a hose that goes from the fan housing down towards the alternator - I must admit, I never looked or saw mine!

[humbucker]

If my memory serves me correctly, it's a foil flexi

[James McGrath]

I think the part number is 90499152 but I can't find one anywhere.
It's listed on the genuine part search website but I phoned them up and they didn't actually have one.

Can anyone tell me the rough dimensions so I can make my own.

[humbucker]

It's part number 13 on the image below. Not sure of the dimensions, but you can use the diameter of the fan outlet as a guide. The back end of the hose sorta just sits facing the alternator, blowing air onto it. I think its tucked inside the rear heat shield (that's what holds it in place). There are probably pics on my long-forgotten V6 project thread (I remember changing the rear knock sensor and removing/replacing the alternator, hose and heat shields in order to do so).

[James McGrath]

Thanks, I'll see if I can fashion one out of some heat resistant flexible tubing.

[James McGrath]

Made some progress today after some parts had arrived.

New GM fuel tank vent valve:




Here is the new GM wing mirror glass. I do feel guilty about using parts when they are packaged nicely like this.
I think it's from my classic video game collecting; boxed with instructions!




Delphi wishbones:




For the last few days she's been looking a little worse for wear as I've had the inlet manifold off and various other bits and pieces unplugged:




First thing I did was the headlight.
As you can see the pattern for the drivers side was completely wrong:




Can't understand why though, everything looked fine on the old lamp and the bulb was seated correctly.
New lamp on the left, old on the right:




Actually quite glad I replaced it as the bracket which the bulb cover sits in was broken so it never closed properly so I was planning to replace it at some point anyway.

New lamp fitted which has the correct beam pattern:




Taking out the headlight allowed me better access to the auxiliary cooling pump:




I hooked it up direct to the battery and nothing, not a peep.
So I'm guessing I need a new one.
If anyone has one of these going spare, please get in touch, they seem to be quite hard to find.


Also did a test on the alternator cooling fan which also didn't move:




On closer inspection, this was the state of the motor brushes:




The bracket which holds them in palace had completely melted, no wonder it was hard to turn!
Another thing to add to the list.


Next job was the easiest; fitting the new mirror glass.
As you can see the old one had a broken ball joint meaning I couldn't adjust it left or right only up and down:




Fitted:




Time for the fuel tank vent valve
Old above new below:




Fitted:




Now that was fitted I could safely put it all back together again:




So the moment of truth. Started her up and everything was the same, engine light still on. Oh well I thought, I've still got the immobiliser to fix yet.
But that wasn't the end of it.
All I did was move the car from one side of the dive to the other and boom! The EML light went out!



Fantastic!
I imagine that it just needed a little time to clear the fault code.

The low oil level light is on at the moment, not sure why as the oil level is fine. There is a slow leak coming from the drain plug, I've put on a new bolt and washer but to no avail so I think there is something wrong with the sump to be honest.
The oil light will go out if I put more oil in but at the moment it's sitting right on the maximum.
Of course it could be the wrong dip stick, I wouldn't be surprised after everything I've found over the last few days

So things I've yet to do for the mot:
-Drill out the remains of the bolt that holds the battery in place and fit a new one
-Fit the new exhaust
-Get the wishbones fitted
-Fit number plate lamp when it arrives

Things for the future:
-New auxiliary water cooling pump
-New alternator cooling fan
-New alternator cooling hose
-Get all the air con parts fitted and working

I've also splashed out on a new genuine gearstick and handbrake gator as well as a new genuine battery cover as the old ones are looking very tatty.
I also really want a set of carpet mats, the genuine ones with "Vauxhall" written on them in red lettering. If anyone has a set going spare let me know.

[chrisash86]

Hi James I have a set u can buy if u wish?

[James McGrath]

Hi James I have a set u can buy if u wish?

PM on its way!

[Lowrider Dave]

Great update, nice to see problems getting solved (and a new list of parts started!).

[James McGrath]

Just been told after a week of waiting that the handbrake gaiter is out of stock and no longer available.

Really frustrating as I already have the gearstick one ready to go on. If I knew that one of them wasn't available then I wouldn't have bothered.

[iangsi]

Just been told after a week of waiting that the handbrake gaiter is out of stock and no longer available.

Really frustrating as I already have the gearstick one ready to go on. If I knew that one of them wasn't available then I wouldn't have bothered.

Try this guy it's where I got mine, I know they're not original but needs must.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/the-tuning-shop-team

[cavalier1990]

I think the part number is 90499152 but I can't find one anywhere.
It's listed on the genuine part search website but I phoned them up and they didn't actually have one.

Can anyone tell me the rough dimensions so I can make my own.

That happened to me a few times as well, Janet who works there said they are a bit behind in updating their current stock list.

[James McGrath]

Yeah, it's happening more and more with GPS. Getting really annoying now.

This wasn't on GPS though it was vauxhall car parts.

[humbucker]

Autovaux are in the process of shifting their stock database onto a completely new system. During this time, GPS will show parts available, but also those not necessarily in stock e.g. they will need to be ordered in for you.

[tonyo]

Yeah, it's happening more and more with GPS. Getting really annoying now.

This wasn't on GPS though it was vauxhall car parts.

I've had a similar experience with VCP. GPS are really good, Janet, in particular is really helpful.

[James McGrath]

Time for another unnecessarily large collection of photos.
Did I mention that this thread would be pic heavy?

Forgot to add some photos of when I did the O2 sensor.

The old one was a Bosch unit which looked exactly the same as the one I replaced it with, which I suppose is a good sign.
I used a piece of string to tie the old and new sensors together. That way when I pulled the old one out the new wire would take exactly the same route as the old.




Thankfully the old one came out without a fuss, it was looking pretty grotty though:




New sensor fitted:




Anyway, more OE goodness arrived through the post.
Battery cover and inserts for the radius arms:




Brand new gearstick gaiter direct from Vauxhall. Yes amazingly they still make these, shame they don't make the one for the handbrake too.




Also the new rear lamp arrived, though this wasn't in GM packaging unfortunately.
There are a few subtle differences between the old and new:




Before:




After:




Next thing for the MOT was to drill out this sheared bolt:




With a bit of help from the neighbour, we managed to drill the whole thing out without destroying the thread. However I did end up drilling right through the chassis on the other side. Oops
The blue stuff is Bilt Hamber hydrate 80 that I dabbed on to protect any bare metal:




New bolt in, this time with some copper grease, hopefully I won't ever have to drill this one out too:




While I was doing that it gave me the ideal opportunity to replace the old battery cover which was in a bit of a state:




There were a few subtle defences between the two parts here too.
The old one had vertical lines along the sides which are quite worn but you can just about seen them here on the right side.
Not sure why they were different as they have the same part number:




New one fitted:
The old one will be going on the Diplomat I think, too rare to just throw away.




After that it was time for some finishing touches to the engine bay.
Replaced the hose clamp on this breather pipe with a proper jubilee clip.
The original was just too tight to get back on again.




Also added a small jubilee clip to this hose on the crank case breather system as there wasn't one on there originally:




This was the old gearstick gaiter:




New one fitted:




Bit of a pyrrhic victory though as the handbrake gaiter is still tatty:




After all that it was MOT re-test time and I'm relieved to say that it passed.

I didn't fit the radius arms in the end, my mechanic just replaced the dust cover. He showed me the old one which had a tiny quarter inch split in it and said the MOT tester was being really picky and it didn't need the new arms yet.
So they will be stored until needed.

Just got the exhaust to fit now. After that my next priority is to get the auxiliary cooling pump fixed or replaced. No idea where I'm going to get a replacement part though.