Sound proofing

[vaux16v]

Hi. Has anyone got any recommendations of a sound proofing that is good for the floor and what does everyone use to seal the floor pan. Thanks.

[Mk3alan]

Never fitted any to the Cavalier but when I had the headlining out of my Astra Estate I took the opportunity to stick self adhesive 'lead flashing' to the roof panels and am convinced it has had a positive effect.
When tapped prior to applying, the panels would sound noticably more lively.

Alan

[vaux16v]

Thanks for getting back to me. Can you remember what sort of thickness it was and do you know it was easily removed.

[Mk3alan]

About 2mm thick and I don't think it would come off very easily - like **** to a blanket!

Alan

[Robsey]

For painting the foot wells, I used 4 tins of Upol Raptor. It is a rubberised chip and scuff resistant truck bed-liner paint in a satin black..

Obviously all areas where the original paint was damaged or worn through, or possibly needed rust treatment were attended to and covered in a high zinc primer.
Then the Upol Ramptor was painted on.

I then used a strange matting that closely resembled the original butyl covering glued to the floor pan of the car.
it is adhesive backed, and can be warmed with a hair drier or hot air gun to allow it to conform better to the undulations in the floor-pan.
Couldn't find any recent links, but you can see pictures of it on page 56 of my WIP.

Upol raptor is quite expensive at £75 for 4 tins delivered. More than enough to cover the entire interior floor of the car and boot a few times to ensure good deep coverage.

The matting just about filled the floor pans within the cabin and cost £22 delivered... as above, it is approx 2mm thick and is intended to reduce vibration / resonance in the metal floor panels.

[vaux16v]

£75 isnt too bad if it does a good job. Didyou apply with the gun or brush. I will probably need the high zinc primer as i have took a wire wheel to the floor and mite need seam sealer as well.
I will be doing the underside of the car in the future when i invest in car lift. Hopefully it won't affect the work im doing now.

Thanks for the help.

[Robsey]

In all honesty, I didn't apply the truck bed liner, but I am sure it was applied with a radiator roller.

It was an "unknown" for Troy who did the welding and treating and in fact a choice I made to paint on something that added additional durability to the interior (and exterior) of the car. The truck bed paint was also used as an underseal paint.

I know a lot of professional restorers who use Por 15 products from Frost Auto Restorations (mail order from Rochdale).

I was asked to order all sorts of lotions and potions, such as Noxudol for cavity waxing.
Not sure what epoxy mastic he used to seal all the joints and seams.
It was all rocket science to me.

The only other input I had was on the sub-frame and rear beam parts, which I had stripped, shot blasted and epoxy powder coated.
It all looked fantastic and like new parts when done.

Troy's other stipulation was that further spraying with cavity wax should be done on an annual basis for the first few years.

Totally aside from the car, it is my plan to restore a VW camper from this summer.
Historically I have used Vactan on pitted or oxidised metal. It is a very durable version of the "kurust" type fluids. I last looked at the camper in 2014 before the saga of the Cavalier took over all other plans.
The Vactan treated areas still appear to be holding up well from corrosion since applying the fluid coating back then - 4 years ago.

[vaux16v]

Thanks for the info.
I definitely like the sound of that Upol Raptor stuff. It seems really tough stuff. Its like stuff ya wouldn't want to be removing it.lol.

[Robsey]

Once it is painted on, I cannot see it coming off willingly without thinners or something similar.

Here is my boot before the coating was painted over with the primer, colour coats and lacquer.