My Little 1.8LSi

[Robsey]

As said - it shouldn't rain in there.

More chance of being a poor door seal

Or
one of the rubber hoses between the body and the tailgate (hatchback obviously)

Or
a defective sunroof drain hose fitment.

[thomas]

Rear fog-light switch is playing up, sticking on once on, requiring a fiddle with it, then it decides to work and turn off. I have spare that section of dash with headlight-switch, rare front and less rare rear fog switches, so if worst comes to worst, if it isn't just sticky, I have a spare switch.

More tricky is the once intermittent handbrake-on warning lamp has given up altogether, though it has done this before and started working again.

So not much really to worry about.

[Robsey]

Hmm - the hand-brake switch does sound a bit of a faff to get at.

I have only removed the hand-brake gaiter to access / remove the centre console before.
That also required detaching of the gear lever gaiter, and unscrewing two self tappers deep in the recesses of the cubby-hole at the rear of the centre console.

Haynes mentions removal of the centre console and unscrewing the hand-brake lever front cable from the balance-bar / yoke. (Underneath the car).

[Envoy CDX]

Contact cleaner for both would be my first go to. There is a signal or grounding pin for the handbrake that will get grotty after 30 years, mine was when I pulled it apart.

As for the switches on the dash. there are little springs if I remember in the push front.

[Robsey]

Yes the switches will just lever out from the front.
Just be careful not to use something too hard / sharp.

[thomas]

I think that is what it had been -a prior removal having been a bit too rough on it and deformed the plastic, rather than just sticky from non-use.
I swapped it there and then for the nice new s/h one, with a snappy action. Sorted.

At my leisure then I could examine the old one.
Took the button cap off, found one loose little spring there, and despite saying to myself 'I must not lose this tiny little spring' I promptly lost it.
Did search everywhere. With a part of a spring from a gas cig-lighter as a replacement, contact cleaner and with silicon oil for the sliding plastic bits, I dismantled the bottom part of the switch and found there a spring, not sure if it was the same one I'd lost -it then having gone down the little hole the plastic pushrod enters, or another spring entirely. Reassembled it with a spring at two corners and it works a treat again -will do for a spare in the very unlikely event ...

Handbrake. Took the gaiter off and blasted down in the depths generously, blindly, with contact cleaner, to no avail. Have to as suggested, yank the rear part of the console out and take car to somewhere with a ramp to unwind the rear-adjuster enough to bring the lever and cable up inside. I'm not for crawling about underneath it, there's little clearance between bumper and road. I'm sure this sits lower than earlier and lowlier models, despite being on 14, not 13 inch wheels

Cables, long offside and short nearside are both quite recently replaced, but intermittent operation of the lamp pre-dated that and did even the Dinitrol application in 2019. Hope just a cleanup of contacts should be enough; cable now needs a little nip-up anyhow.

Best to keep on top of these little things or stuff can snowball.

[thomas]

An update on the Cavvy.

The dicky handbrake lamp, sorted itself, without any intervention, didn't even get round to removing the rear part of the centre-console.

It has long been plagued by slow air leaks (about 8 psi a month) from a couple of wheels due to corrosion on the tyre bead area, even after replacing the tyres all round, so had to stop putting it off and get them powder-coated, which is now done, and is a great cosmetic improvement too.



All the centre-badges are in poor nick, but will probably have to use the best of these.

The original ones on the car were alloy, as were the couple I blasted off with the jet wash, then drove over the top of, or lost.
I was given some others, also alloy, but these included too, one of bendy jelly-like plastic and about 2mm less in diameter (top one in the picture) which is in better condition than any alloy one.



Deer still visiting frequently.


Also this thing is a regular, no idea what it is but it's potentially dinner.

[Robsey]

Is it a grouse or a pheasant...?

I got my domed alloy badges from a place in Spain on ebay.
They still look just as nice and are still stuck in place four or five years later.

As for the alloys, it is worth giving them a blow over with clear lacquer.
It will help protect the powder coating from chipping and bubbling.

Again, I had mine lacquered after being coated gun-metal grey

[ilovedmymantas]

Pheasant and venison on your doorstep. You're making me hungry

I've got the same problem with air leaks on two tyres, coincidentally where hammer on weights were fitted on holiday by a country garage.
My wheels are long overdue a refurb, they've been tatty for ages but the oxidising weights are black now and bleeding onto the wheel, not pretty.

I think it's time to start looking for quotes

[Mk3alan]

I had to pump up the wife's MINI tyres every day (3-4lbs) and finally reached my match. Had tyres removed to investigate and found extensive corrosion in the wheel wells, lumps of paint as big as my hand would come off!
Had all wheels shot (media?) blasted and powder coated and could now sell my foot pump!

Alan

[thomas]

I still quite like the look and longevity of the plastic centre-badge, over the alloy, it appears to be flatter on top but slightly domed inwards below to suit the profile of the centre-cover. Had thought at first it might have been a bonnet badge or steering-wheel centre, but seems suited to, made for, this use.





Have re-used the best of the old badges, till better turn up. Stuck them on (epoxy/araldite) as if staying on, though.
I'm sure they got a clear lacquer over them too, primer, hi-build coatings baked on etc., so should outlast car.
Keeping the foot-pump maintained for now. Did have this issue with bike alloy wheels too, but long sorted.



If the grouse/pheasant thing would oblige by striking a suitable pose, a photograph of it could be made into circular badges.

[thomas]

Looking at front springs just now (one's borked). Searching with the VX part number 90297902 and with the equivent Sachs number 997 703, culled from another thread, I'm being led to springs listed also as fitting ("compatible with") 1.4 and 1.6 models as well as 1.8.

What's happening are the 1.4 and 1.6 buyers getting an upgrade or the 1.8 seekers getting a downgrade? Spectacular variation in price too. It's never simple is it? Would 2.0 springs a) fit and b) be any better, c) have any downsides, lower, noisier, bumpier?

[Robsey]

I have looked at 90 297 902.

It is for
16SV, (auto)
C16LZ2, C16NZ2, (auto and manual)
18SV, C18NZ, and E18NVR, (manual)

For Cavalier upto 1994.

If I put in my VIN for a 1994 C18NZ,
I get results for:-
Manual Transmission.
Ident TB - 90 297 902
Ident TK - 90 297 910 (GT / SRi)

Manual Transmission with Air Con.
Ident TF - 90 297 906
For GT / SRi - 90 350 293 (lowered spring)
For 4X4 - 90 297 928

Auto with Air Con.
Ident TF - 90 297 906.

Okay I fitted a C20NE to my C18NZ car in 2011 / 2012.
I did not change anything on the car's steering or suspension.
It did not feel any different.

I assume that the springs should be just a little stiffer to handle the extra 25bhp from the engine.
But it should not matter unless you drive more enthusiasticly with the increase in engine oomph.

When I fitted the lowered Spax Springs, I only recall specifying 30 / 40mm lowered. Not engine size.
Lowering does stiffen the ride. (Less spring travel).

So - taking that into account, you should be able to use standard 2 litre springs.

Options are -
Ident TC - 90 297 903 (Upto 1994)
Ident TF - 90 297 906 (From 1994)
Ident TG - 90 297 907 (All years)

[thomas]

Thanks Robsey, interesting. Fear getting the 2.0 ones and finding once it's all in bits, as changing both sides, that they won't fit, physically, strut differing somehow or something. That 'should' towards the end lacks certitude. Still dithering and likely to play safe and stock.

[thomas]

Got equivalents to 90297903 and also 90297904 which appear to do 1.6,1.7D, 1.8 and 2.0, but not 1.4, so should be good to go with these.

[Robsey]

To be honest, part numbers are a minefield.

The main options to avoid would be -
1.4 and 1.6 small block engines,
and the 2.5 V6 engines.
Oh and lowered sports springs.
--------------------------

All later family II engines use a similar 4 pot block.
1.6 (with the 2 suffix), 1.8 and 2 litre.

Spring options exist if you are in a foreign territory (rough terrain), 4x4 or with additional weight of air con etc.

I cannot see any significant difference in weight between the family II engines regardless of size.
Which is why I said it "should" be suitable.

Note - new springs will feel initially less forgiving until they settle. Old springs will be quite soft and wallowy.

[thomas]

Cheers Robsey, handy to know and fills in my sketchy knowledge. Ta.

The ones got are Suplex 23129. Reckon they're as near to stock as can be found, and up to it.

The few times I changed front springs on the 1.6L/16SV I never paid any attention, just took what could be had locally over the counter.

It's good they are still available, and basically interchangeable.

I'd have taken whatever I could get happily, but with a choice and a clue can be choosy, consider upgrades.

[thomas]

Sorted but not sorted, till next week. Springs here.

It wasn't a buy-two-get-four-free offer, the Cav ones are nearest the step, the four behind are Viva HB rears left, and fronts right.



Still hope to get some bits of bodywork done this year. With the wheels done, then these springs soon, should be clear to proceed.
The bike that was getting nothing spent (except some brake stuff) on it this year has already needed a new rear tyre due to perishing and age issues.

What would we do otherwise if we didn't have machines to fettle?

[thomas]

Pictures of the springs fitted wouldn't be that interesting (both fronts were broken).

Instead here are a couple of shots of the bird again.
I know we shouldn't give them names, but was thinking of calling it Hughie (pronounced Chewy).

[Robsey]

Hmm - very nice plumage.

I can see why you would identify Chewy as being more interesting than a bit of spring action.

[thomas]

Hello everybody

Sorry for the lack of updates to this post, been bone idle and have lots of other new posts and news to catch up with here.

Other than the tin-worms munching away at the boot floor, nothing much is happening.
Hope for some grisly before and after pictures, but it's not done yet.

Got my hands on some bottom wishbones, with the intention of renewing them along with attached BJs, and new track-rod ends.



Strengthening at 'B':



Will be keeping the old ones, (as if I don't have enough junk) they'll still be serviceable, at a push, with or without new BJ's.

My 'lights-on' warning buzzer has ceased to sound, for some time now, miss it. Must first locate it, not so easy now it's silent, then fix or replace it.

[Robsey]

I have moved my lights on warning unit reply to its own topic.

Here...


viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17289&p=178703#p178703

[thomas]

Ta, Robsey, that was all helpful, haven't pulled it yet, to have a fiddle or replace it. Other matters predominating.

Bodywork. The boot floor was done in record time.
Just a roll of photos, which speak for themselves -nice work, by a local welder.

The rusted holes were so conveniently placed that releasing the bumper's lower side mountings could be done from inside the car!








The little tab retainers for the top of the rear bumper were mangled in removal, as rotten. Now sorted nicely.











Strange to be painting outdoors, mid-evening and temperature is in the high 20s degC.

[Robsey]

Ah yes - the usual rot spot.
Nice tidy job, by the looks of it.
I cannot weld for toffee.

As for the warbler, my pleasure.
It is nice for me to have something to contribute that is relevant to a Cavalier forum.

[thomas]

Time for a nice photo of the car itself instead of the underside and internals.

This photo is so wrong though.
A dog is having a sniff, a poo or a pee behind.
Light levels and focus were set by pointing camera at the sun, holding them and then shooting the dust and muck-caked car.



Looks very Vectra-B, still think for the mk2, the saloon the better looking shape but for the mk3, it's the hatch.