Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Hi Folks,

Having received great support from Cavlier1990 and Robsey, I thought I should share the "state of play" on my restoration of my C18NZ auto that I've owned since 1994 (which has been off the road since 2005).

I haven't a lot of time to write a journal about my "struggles" with it , but I'm happy to post photos of my "progress" to my shared Google folder here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

Hope this can be of some interest to the group.

Cheers

John

Hi John,

I am glad Andrew and I were able to help.
It is always good to see pictures.
Although informative, too much text can get very dry.

1994 eh?
Even longer than me... only had ours since December 1995.
No doubt you will be replacing all the rubber, including tyres, timing belt and various hoses, all of which will be quite tired after being stood for eighteen years.

Hi Robsey,

Yes, all that is "scheduled" to be done (especially the timing belt). Having said that it has stood in a dry garage all this time and the local mechanic who came round last week to have a look before helping me get it finished said that it looks in "fine shape"...We'll see ....(fingers crossed!).

My big "achievement" today was getting the fuel tank fitted back in place. No small task as the car is on axle stands and I had to do this on my own, lying on my back (and I'm 66 years old!). Add to that the fact that the second hand straps seemed quite "tight" and made the whole operation a tough event (I'm sure you know what I'm speaking about )

Next up is to re-connect the filler pipes and rear exhaust, and the the part I'm really looking forward to...the front and rear suspension, brakes and wheels.

I will definitely post photos of that!

Cheers

JOhn

Yes I have done the tank fitting on my back routine.
I managed to have a bath in petrol.

The tank straps can be very tight if you have fitted fresh anti-vibration pads between the tank and the car floor.

If the car has been stood for quite some time, it could take a lot of cranking to build up compressions.
You could easily flatten the battery once or twice before the engine fires-up and runs.

Do not be surprised if the "fluttering" exhaust note does not sound smooth and regular.
It is common for the exhaust to sound a bit jittery on this engine.

Looks like some nice progress going on,

Just for info John,

As you have an 8 valve engine, it is not the end of the world if the timing belt fails.
It is a "non-interference" engine, so no worries about valves hitting pistons.

(16 valve engines are not so safe in this respect).

Robsey wrote: ↑Sun Jul 23, 2023 11:07 am Just for info John,

As you have an 8 valve engine, it is not the end of the world if the timing belt fails.
It is a "non-interference" engine, so no worries about valves hitting pistons.

(16 valve engines are not so safe in this respect).

Thanks for the info Robsey, I wasn't aware of that. I have a new belt in any case, but if the old one looks in decent shape I might just try and get the engine turned over sooner

Envoy CDX wrote: ↑Sun Jul 23, 2023 9:48 am Looks like some nice progress going on,

Thanks. Got a friendly mechanic coming this Friday to help me get the rear drums and brakes and front struts and discs all re-fitted, so hopefully have some more photos to post this weekend.

Evening all,
Just checked my Haynes manual, and there is no mention of the amount of brake fluid needed to fill an empty system. Anybody know how much and what is the recommended spec/brand of fluid these days?
Getting quite excited now (which is odd for me as a 66 year old), as technically (hopefully?) there's not too much left before firing some life into the old jallopy
Cheers, John

I suspect a "standard sized" bottle should be enough.
I have never yet used a full bottle.

Remember to used the pressure bleed method to ensure that the lines are purged properly.

I am sure the original owners' manual used to say,
"Use super disc dot 5.1"
Although I hear a lot of people using dot 4 fluid.

Lindsay Porter's manual "dot 4 or SAE j1703" ( same as power steering fluid ). C18NZ is 0.4l capacity.

Hi folks,

Just posted some more photos of our efforts today to Google here:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

We almost reached our objectives but were frustrated when it came to fitting the hub carriers as they would not allow the disc to turn freely. Long story short is that someone (not me) had bent the lugs where the carrier bolts are fitted to, probably when pressing out the old hubs. It took half an afternoon to "fettle" * them and the carriers so they fit OK now (phew!).

I'm very pleased with how it all went and I've learned a lot from our "friendly mechanic" (who usually works on trucks and artics, although he has restored a mini!).

The next stage is to fit the front calipers, pads etc and them bleed the system (and keep fingers cross the master cylinder is still in good shape). Then on to prepping the engine for its first start in 18 years!!!

Cheers,
John

* i.e hitting with a hammer and grinding/filing down "bits"

Well after a bit of a battle with leaking brake nipples we finally got the brake system fully working.

Our next step was to try a very quick start of the engine, without coolant, to see if it would fire up. We had a 3 or 4 cranks of the engine with the distributor cap off to ensure some oil got picked up and round the block, and also to get the dry fuel system primed.

The dizzy cap was sparking fine so on we went to a proper start up. Here it is here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mM6ylo ... drive_link

The engine started first time! It was shut off twice to enable the oil pump to do its work, but on the 3rd attempt started and ran away fine.

The car was revving more than expected but this could be due to the fact that a lot of the ancillaries were disconnected. (Anybody have any ideas?).

Next up is to replace timing belt, tensioner and water pump and also alternator belt and tensioner while we're at it.

Still a bit to go yet, but a major milestone passed today.

The obvious thought about the high revs, is the tension of the cable going to the throttle body.
It is a glorified carburettor with an injector where the 'main jet' would go.
There should be about 1/16" or 1.5mm free play in the cable when the accelerator pedal is released.

It is an auto, so the engine should rev a little quicker than normal.
Say nearer 900 rpm rather than approx 800rpm of the manual.

Just like the choke on a carb engine, the ECU will provide a richer mixture when the engine is cold.

It is more problematic if the car stalls or cuts out when cold, as this would point at a defective coolant temperature sensor.
The square blue one at the rear of the thermostat housing.

Assuming a good service with new or cleaned plugs, rotor, leads and distributor cap has been done, these engines are pretty reliable.

Thanks Rob,

I had a look at the throttle body and noticed that the idle filler regulation motor wasn't connected (doh!).

After re-fixing it sounds more like it:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18nM9PQ ... drive_link

Many thanks (again) for your attention and help.

Cheers

John

I presume you mean the throttle position switch.
It is a long while since I had the 1.8 lump in my car, but if my memory serves me well, there are only two electrical connectors.

1 - the central injector valve.

2 - the throttle position switch.

But then it was so long ago, I could be wrong.

I am glad it was a nice easy fix.
Soon be saying 'happy motoring'

Thanks Rob,
I was naming it based on part No. 5 on the following page: https://opel.7zap.com/en/car/j89/g/0/56-1/
But that is a bit of a mouthful so I'm pleased to stand corrected
A few hurdles still in my path but hopefully the light in the tunnel will soon be in view.
All the best
John

It appears that I am the one that is being corrected.
I had forgotten about that part (number 5).

It is all good progress.

A near side view of the Cav standing on its own "legs" after a long time on stands.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16M77T- ... drive_link

Front and rear bumpers still to fit, along with front wheel arch liners and horns.

Would anyone have a spare OS wheel liner cover lying around they're willing to part with? (part No. 6 on this page: https://opel.7zap.com/en/car/j89/a/3/5-0/)

Cheers, John.

Ah, the crankshaft sprocket and auxilliary drive belt protector panel.
Hmm - I don't think that I have ever seen one for sale on ebay...

UPDATE -
I can only see this in Poland.
I presume it is Poland based on the currency.

I tend to see more 'hits' with Opel or GM, rather than Vauxhall.

Part number according to the EPC is 90 469 477.
For Cavalier (Vectra-A), and Calibra.
With Air-Con or Power Steering.

Hi Rob,
Yes, another search for "hen's teeth"
I'm wondering if I can make something up with thin aluminium sheet?
Another item on the project "list"
Cheers
John

There are a few cavs breaking on gumtree, might be worth a try.
https://www.gumtree.com/search?featured ... ation=&tl=

jgwilliamson wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 10:37 am Hi Rob,
Yes, another search for "hen's teeth"
I'm wondering if I can make something up with thin aluminium sheet?
Another item on the project "list"
Cheers
John

I would recommend something like thin sheet plastic.
It can be easily moulded with a hot air gun.

Aluminium may potentially rattle a lot as the panel is only held in place with two self-tappers, and an expandable rivet.
Also aluminium would corrode quicker if in contact with steel.

ilovedmymantas wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 4:16 pm There are a few cavs breaking on gumtree, might be worth a try.
https://www.gumtree.com/search?featured ... ation=&tl=

Thanks Matt, I'll check it out.
Cheers,
John

Robsey wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 6:17 pm I would recommend something like thin sheet plastic.
It can be easily moulded with a hot air gun.

Aluminium may potentially rattle a lot as the panel is only held in place with two self-tappers, and an expandable rivet.
Also aluminium would corrode quicker if in contact with steel.

Hi Rob,
I've got some sheet plastic in my "store", I'll have a bash
John