Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Sad thing is that LMF do some cheaper silicone hoses for all the performance engines, but none for the 1600 and 1800 cc engines

Robsey wrote:Sad thing is that LMF do some cheaper silicone hoses for all the performance engines, but none for the 1600 and 1800 cc engines

Yeah, I can probably modify the 2litre 8v set to fit the 1800 (there's not that much difference).
Just have to consider it is all.

Just ordered a new Lambda sensor, can't cry at the price really and as I'm having to drill out my manifold due to snapped studs, figured I may as well replace the sensor while it's out.

Yeah, I fitted mine yesterday afternoon (it arrived first thing yesterday, and was fitted as soon as the wife went out ).

Only thing is I won't be driving it for two weeks due to lbeing on leave for 2 weeks .

Had to wait, as paypal would only allow payment via eCheque...5 day delay

Robsey wrote:Yeah, I fitted mine yesterday afternoon (it arrived first thing yesterday, and was fitted as soon as the wife went out ).

Only thing is I won't be driving it for two weeks due to lbeing on leave for 2 weeks .

Had to wait, as paypal would only allow payment via eCheque...5 day delay

Go out for a blast in it now

Well, spare manifold is in the local engineers place getting the snapped studs drilled out and holes retapped. Can't be bad


Just hope it doesn't cost me all that much

Well, just got it back, fairly happy too only cost me £10 . Priced up getting my towbar blasted and powder coated £20.

good price for the powder coat. should look nice

I painted and fitted my towbar (Auto-tow model), way back in the mid-90's.

I recall the paint colour for mine was very hard to get hold of, so I had to use Austin Rover Midnight Blue rattle cans
3 layers of primer, 3 layers of colour and 2 layers of laquer...it was a very good colour match at the time. and it looked really tidy!

It is just beginning to show signs of bubbling on the catch plate behind the tow-ball, some 14 years later

well, I never did get round to fitting the manifold, went to bed after I got it back, shattered really

I'm trying to make a bit of "disposable" cash so the cav work isn't costing me anything. Towbar hopefully goes in next Friday

Glad you getting it sorted mate. Where are you getting it powercoated? And do you know anywhere that dose chrome?

I want a front strut brace powered white and a rearone stripped and chromed.

HAIRIBO wrote:Glad you getting it sorted mate. Where are you getting it powercoated? And do you know anywhere that dose chrome?

I want a front strut brace powered white and a rearone stripped and chromed.

Can't remember the name of the company, will have a looksee later. Don't know anyone who does it chromed though.

Well, I have replaced the manifold on the cav. Need to drill a stud out of the head and I am not looking forward to doing that
Replaced 7 of the 8 studs with new ones. 8 new nuts. Taken out of the parts draw for my 18se rebuild so, thats more bits to buy

Anyhow, it sounds better.

As long as you dont drill more than about 1" (25mm) into your head, then you should be fine. Not as if you're a novice is it!!

I assume it also runs a bit better, without the leaky manifold...
Or is it still causing you hassle ?

Robsey wrote:As long as you dont drill more than about 1" (25mm) into your head, then you should be fine. Not as if you're a novice is it!!

I assume it also runs a bit better, without the leaky manifold...
Or is it still causing you hassle ?

Never drilled into a head before So rather scared to be honest.
Still giving me hassle, and the tarting thing died in traffic last night. Unplugged the ICV and it runs - sort of, so I'm leaning towards that being the culprit.

What I have done in the past, is to use the manifold as a drill-guide, and then start to drill with the biggest drill that will fit into the hole.

Only drill deep enough to give a decent centre spot for a smaller drill - this is to stop the smaller drill skipping and sliding about.

Then drill to a depth of 1" (25mm) as said, and open up with a slightly bigger drill, and so on.

If I remember correctly, a tapping pilot drill for an M8 stud is 6.8mm diameter, or try drilling about 6mm to 1/4" dia and then use one of the "better" stud removing tools, not easi-out, as these are too brittle, and snap inside you cyclinder head.

Then it really gets silly, and you have to give it to an engineers workshop with spark erosion equipment

On the up-side I have extracted a stud, by drilling a bore hole through the stud, and then hammerring a torx / star drive bit into the hole, and then unscrewing anti-clockwise.

Robsey wrote:What I have done in the past, is to use the manifold as a drill-guide, and then start to drill with the biggest drill that will fit into the hole.

Only drill deep enough to give a decent centre spot for a smaller drill - this is to stop the smaller drill skipping and sliding about.

Then drill to a depth of 1" (25mm) as said, and open up with a slightly bigger drill, and so on.

If I remember correctly, a tapping pilot drill for an M8 stud is 6.8mm diameter, or try drilling about 6mm to 1/4" dia and then use one of the "better" stud removing tools, not easi-out, as these are too brittle, and snap inside you cyclinder head.

Then it really gets silly, and you have to give it to an engineers workshop with spark erosion equipment

On the up-side I have extracted a stud, by drilling a bore hole through the stud, and then hammerring a torx / star drive bit into the hole, and then unscrewing anti-clockwise.

Bring your kit up when your in the area. You have the job

Envoy CDX wrote: Bring your kit up when your in the area. You have the job

Always have an 18v cordless drill, bits, spanners, screw-drivers and T handled hex and spline keys, Torque wrench and a plastic faced "heavy" mallet in the boot of my car.

So, I suppose I should just come up as I am

In all honesty, just take your time, remove the radiator for better access...all will be fine!

Robsey wrote:

Envoy CDX wrote: Bring your kit up when your in the area. You have the job

Always have an 18v cordless drill, bits, spanners, screw-drivers and T handled hex and spline keys, Torque wrench and a plastic faced "heavy" mallet in the boot of my car.

So, I suppose I should just come up as I am

In all honesty, just take your time, remove the radiator for better access...all will be fine!

I can wait

Any progress with the ICV ?

Seem to remember that you were pointing the "blame" finger at this for your running issues.

Robsey wrote:Any progress with the ICV ?

Seem to remember that you were pointing the "blame" finger at this for your running issues.

Aye, I picked one up from a 1.2 corsa in the breakers (same unit, just smaller engine )
I'll probably fit it tomorrow before work and see if theres a noticable difference in the running of things.

Just sooooo tired at the minute

Envoy CDX wrote:

Robsey wrote:Any progress with the ICV ?

Seem to remember that you were pointing the "blame" finger at this for your running issues.

Aye, I picked one up from a 1.2 corsa in the breakers (same unit, just smaller engine )
I'll probably fit it tomorrow before work and see if theres a noticable difference in the running of things.

Just sooooo tired at the minute

That's the problem with working nights

soon be Friday, and your two days off

Robsey wrote:
That's the problem with working nights

soon be Friday, and your two days off

Aye, and I'll probably sleep through them.

With all the car hassles that you're having at the moment,

I doubt you'll get much sleep at all.

I just threw that icon in for the sake of it... can't really relate Wallace's dog to your potential lack of sleep. It was just there to be used

Robsey wrote:With all the car hassles that you're having at the moment,

I doubt you'll get much sleep at all.

I just threw that icon in for the sake of it... can't really relate Wallace's dog to your potential lack of sleep. It was just there to be used

Aye, they say every dog will have his day. Besides I can't rememer the last time Grommit made an appearance.