1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

[cavalier1990]

Robsey sorry to slightly hijack your thread I wanted to ask do you know where the main earth clamps are under dash as I'm thinking worth checking them while most of under dash is out.

[Robsey]

To be honest I have no idea.
There is one under the dash behind instrument cluster and on the steering collumn.

I presume that the nearside inner wing will have a stud welded onto it low down, close to the big X6 connector.

Unfortunately I cannot look at TIS2000 / GlobalTIS / TIS2Web nor AutoData v3.45 as my laptop has died after a microsoft update.

[Robsey]

Tested my alarm with partial success.
The sounder, door contacts, immobiliser, warning LED and indicators all work fine.

Only the central locking / window lifter circuit does not work.

I have checked the operation of the alarm itself and all tests work fine, so I am assuming Toad Install must have hacked into the loom further down towards X6.

Just for info, the alarm / immobiliser connector is a chuffing tight fit into the body loom plug.

Bizarrely the LED on the unit is an Ultra-bright Blue item. I prefer red as it looks more factory.
Not a problem, an LED is easily swapped.

Whilst I had the glove box out, I found the Meta Systems central locking interface tucked into the cubby hole where the alarm should sit.

So more junk to strip out in due course.

The Scorpion sounder is only tiny, but blimey it has some balls. Very loud just setting and unsetting the alarm.
Didn't dare to trigger it off...

[Mk3alan]

I have a scorpion alarm fitted to my Morris and I have triggered it unwittingly by putting my head in the cabin or lifting the bonnet and it frightens me!
It's amazing the sound levels you can get from such a small unit these days.

Alan

[Robsey]

I did wonder about fitting one of my GM original system 90 sounders to make it look more factory. Not sure yet.

The scorpion is only about 2/3rds the size of my Meta Systems sounder (complete alarm head) and it is significantly smaller than the larger boxy GM sounder.

I suppose the next step is to pull out all the near-side kick panels and glove box to investigate the central locking wiring.

OR...

I could fit my remote controlled Vectra-B central locking module.
A bit cleaner and tidier, but means the alarm and central locking are kept separate.


Update 16:30 - 22/08/2018

It appears that the immobiliser wires for the central locking and window lifter functions are not "connected" somewhere between the immobiliser loom connector and the main body loom.

To get around this, I willneed to add in wires directly to the main floor loom.

After a bit of investigation, it appears that I willneed to splice into the loom in a similar way that Toad Install did 22 years ago.

What I found was shocking -
Just to show the top notch professional wiring that we paid for in 1996.



They have simply,
Stripped back a bit of insulation.
Separated the strands to create an opening (like the eye of a needle).
Threaded the exposed alarm wire ends through the opening.
Then wrap the alarm wire ends around the main loom wire.
Finish off with some pvc tape.
Barely enough to cover the exposed wires.


No soldering - just a "Bodgit n Scarper" job.

So looks like a significant amount of wire removal and repair ahead.

Saying that though - I have now got the central locking wiring sussed and working.
Just need to make a permanent adaptation.
This will include separating out the Meta wires, and soldering in my new wires and sleeving - hopefully to leave a much tidier, professional job.

Looks like I will have to fit the ultra sonic emitter and detector heads.
Otherwise the unit gives a 7 chirp warning 40 seconds after arming - grr!!

What a pain. Nothing in the programming instructions to delete the sensors permanently - only option is to double press the arm button when setting the alarm.

[cavalier1990]

To be honest I have no idea.
There is one under the dash behind instrument cluster and on the steering collumn.

I presume that the nearside inner wing will have a stud welded onto it low down, close to the big X6 connector.

Unfortunately I cannot look at TIS2000 / GlobalTIS / TIS2Web nor AutoData v3.45 as my laptop has died after a microsoft update.

Thanks m8 will have a dig about ad check them out.

[Robsey]

Finally fitted a pair of metal "hanger straps" to suspend the cruise module clear above the wiring for the octane coding plug, diagnostic plug, ambient temperature sensor and various other looms.

It looks like the Scorpion sounder should fit quite nicely, just inboard of the suspension turret.
(Mounted off the cruise hanger strap).

If I am lucky a few more niggly jobs will be completed on Sunday.

A slightly irritating side effect of the jittery idle, is that either my exhaust or some other sheet metal component is making a vibration related chirping sound - most noticable if cruising at 35 mph in 4th.

I had this a while back until I had the entire exhaust renewed 17 months ago.
Maybe I should get the garage to check it out next week when they will be due to fit my Bosal SRi back box.
And my long overdue alloy wheels....
(Fingers crossed).

[Envoy CDX]

To be honest I have no idea.
There is one under the dash behind instrument cluster and on the steering collumn.

I presume that the nearside inner wing will have a stud welded onto it low down, close to the big X6 connector.

Unfortunately I cannot look at TIS2000 / GlobalTIS / TIS2Web nor AutoData v3.45 as my laptop has died after a microsoft update.

One either side of the dash up where the door looms pop through
One near the radio cage (if its still fitted)
One on the steering column

[Envoy CDX]

I did wonder about fitting one of my GM original system 90 sounders to make it look more factory. Not sure yet.

The scorpion is only about 2/3rds the size of my Meta Systems sounder (complete alarm head) and it is significantly smaller than the larger boxy GM sounder.

I suppose the next step is to pull out all the near-side kick panels and glove box to investigate the central locking wiring.

OR...

I could fit my remote controlled Vectra-B central locking module.
A bit cleaner and tidier, but means the alarm and central locking are kept separate.


Update 16:30 - 22/08/2018

It appears that the immobiliser wires for the central locking and window lifter functions are not "connected" somewhere between the immobiliser loom connector and the main body loom.

To get around this, I willneed to add in wires directly to the main floor loom.

After a bit of investigation, it appears that I willneed to splice into the loom in a similar way that Toad Install did 22 years ago.

What I found was shocking -
Just to show the top notch professional wiring that we paid for in 1996.

[ Image ]

They have simply,
Stripped back a bit of insulation.
Separated the strands to create an opening (like the eye of a needle).
Threaded the exposed alarm wire ends through the opening.
Then wrap the alarm wire ends around the main loom wire.
Finish off with some pvc tape.
Barely enough to cover the exposed wires.


No soldering - just a "Bodgit n Scarper" job.

So looks like a significant amount of wire removal and repair ahead.

Saying that though - I have now got the central locking wiring sussed and working.
Just need to make a permanent adaptation.
This will include separating out the Meta wires, and soldering in my new wires and sleeving - hopefully to leave a much tidier, professional job.

Looks like I will have to fit the ultra sonic emitter and detector heads.
Otherwise the unit gives a 7 chirp warning 40 seconds after arming - grr!!

What a pain. Nothing in the programming instructions to delete the sensors permanently - only option is to double press the arm button when setting the alarm.

Do the vectra setup if you're doing a key mod / swap. If you're happy with the seperate remote - keep it as you were intending to go already and flog the vectra setup

as for the bodgit and legit setup JEBUS! I would be ashamed to let anything go through my hands like that.. my 6 year old neice would do a better job, blindfolded with a fisherprice toolkit!

Glad to see it's all coming together Rob, won't be long now

[Robsey]

It is all "good enough" now.

Like any Cavalier owner, I can always find something that wants doing, but doesn't necessarily need doing.

The only real need is tyres... either on the existing steelies, or on my freshened up alloys.
Silly work itineraries keep getting in the way of getting something done.

[Robsey]

Wiring wise - I have checked to ensure that it is safe.

Now that I have the Scorpion sussed out, it is not a necessity for me to fit / use the Vectra-B kit.
It isn't often that I lock the car without the alarm set.

[Envoy CDX]

It is all "good enough" now.

Like any Cavalier owner, I can always find something that wants doing, but doesn't necessarily need doing.

The only real need is tyres... either on the existing steelies, or on my freshened up alloys.
Silly work itineraries keep getting in the way of getting something done.

Alloys, tyres on the alloys
But the sensible side of me is saying new rubber on the steels and worry about the alloys post winter.

[Robsey]

I am sure there is not a huge price difference between five 175-70-14s and five 195-60-15s.

Either way - I need to invest in five tyres.
Then it is a matter of storing the other five wheels until I: -
A - sell the steelies
Or
B - give the alloys to my friend in Newcastle as originally promised.

[ilovedmymantas]

Your electronic posts are very informative, I wish I understood a fraction of it!
I only dabble now and again, I guess I tried less when I discovered I needed someone with full colour vision to confirm everything. Doesn't make me stop coming up with odd idea's I'd like to try though lol
Sorry, got carried away there

I am sure there is not a huge price difference between five 175-70-14s and five 195-60-15s.

Either way - I need to invest in five tyres.
Then it is a matter of storing the other five wheels until I: -
A - sell the steelies
Or
B - give the alloys to my friend in Newcastle as originally promised.

The narrower 175's may fare slightly better cutting through snow but I always like to think winter's just going to be mainly cold & wet ( Imaginary hopeless optimism smiley inserted here)!
I'd be with the alloys and the bigger footprint for all year driving.

Wheel trims are hard to find, expensive and fragile-I've never seen paint damaged much on an alloy by road grit or pressure-washing, can't say the same for trims-and then there's cable-ties

Alloys for me every time. I know they're not original to your car ( how many cars can honestly be called original)?- but they look so good

[Robsey]

I totally get the narrower tyres in the snow millarkey.
Although I tend to notice that my problem was often due to driving on tyres with low but legal tread.
My tyres always seemed to get balder towards Christmas time.
(Apologies for using the C word in August).

I did manage fine on the wife's 215mm wide 16" rims for two years whilst my car was in for resto.

Living in the far north east of Cheshire means that I am slap between Manchester (10 miles west of my house) and the start of the Pennines about 1 mile to the east.
So in practice, I do get snowed in for at least a couple of days a year... any time between Christmas (there I go again) and mid-March.

As for the alloy wheels - I always have a pang of guilt doing them up for my car, when I had promised them to Gary (Envoy CDX) 5 or 6 years ago.
However Gary did insist that I fitted them to my car, as his remains far from completion.
So here we stand.
Alloys in my hall, ready for new rubber.

Colour blindness would put an instant stop to my electronics faffing, so I sympathise with you on that, although for me it is reading tiny pin details on connectors that I struggle with. Near vision within 8 or so inches is getting ever worse.

I have no idea how / when I learnt to read and understand wiring diagrams. Just a talent I have of reading up on things a few times and figuring them out. I am never going to reach a stage where I can design electronic component level circuits, but I can manage basic circuits in a building block fashion. Crude but effective.

[iangsi]

Get those alloys on for the weekend with all year round tyres, if you want winter wheels get some cheap 2nd hand tyres for the steelies search the bay might bring up some bargains.

[Envoy CDX]

If you don't fit the alloys I will be rather miffed. They are your wheels Rob

[Robsey]

Get those alloys on for the weekend.

That is my plan. Car booked in at 2pm on Thursday for five 195-60-R15 tyres, and my SRi back box.

If you don't fit the alloys I will be rather miffed.

I get the idea.
I cannot help having a conscience.

Alloys for me every time. I know they're not original to your car ( how many cars can honestly be called original)?- but they look so good

Thanks - I think they look nice on my sideboard in the hall. Not sure about the red griffin badges.

I have seen other cars with charcoal Fanblades on Cavalier Corner's facebook page. I cannot say that they float my boat, but I may feel better about them when fitted - hopefully...

See what you think.




I am hoping that it is just the colour combination that doesn't work for me, and that Polar Sea Blue will suit the gun-metal grey wheels better.

Next comment will be "pictures or it never happened", no doubt.

I shall aim to get pics up on Thursday evening.

I have been really ponsey today, and ordered some "Robsey" show plates for the car.
I feel a bit soppy, but in for a penny, in for a pound with these show type affairs.
It may also help with any future photographs and club meets.

[Envoy CDX]

I know Rob, you're a good guy.

[Robsey]

I try my best - it doesn't cost anything to be honest and fair.

Well the car is having her new wellies fitted along with the back box.

Thankfully, due to the car only being on the road for 18 months since complete new track rods were fitted, I have had the tracking done too.
The lad reported that there were no issues adjusting them.
Looks like Troy did a grand job lubing up the threads of the rod ends.
Next post will be the before and after pictures.

[Robsey]

Okay - here we go.

BEFORE




AFTER





I have a slight issue with an eroded centre cap retaining bolt hole in the driver's front wheel.
I will need to get a longer M8 bolt from work tomorrow. And paint it ready for Saturday.

No worries about the wheels going walk-about, I have fitted proper GM security locking bolts too.

I am not going to bust a gut making the car perfect for Saturday, it will just get a quick vacuum and wash.

[iangsi]

Do you think it drives better or worse with the alloys on, what brand tyres did you go for & does it sound any different with the SRI backbox fitted ?

[Colorado]

Very nice indeed. I bet it drives well with the alloys on. I remember when I put gsi wheels on the colorado how much better it felt

[Robsey]

I had the tracking done at the same time, the near side was out before.

The car feels smooth, and strangely feels higher above the ground, however there should be no more than a couple of millimtres difference.

Only driven it around town at the moment, but will be up and down a few motorways tomorrow.
So will check the accuracey of the speedo using my gps tracker.

The tyres were an odd 'mid-range' non-brand. Green tyres or something, but I know a lot of people who have them locally with no issues. Fair to moderate wear resistance, wet grip and road noise specifications.
Probably on a par with Michelins, looking at the comparison tables.
I made sure that they were correct for the car according to the owner's manual.
195 - 60 R15 88V.
Yes I still have the original wallet and books in the glove box

The tail pipe has a nice note at 2000 revs and above.
But on the whole, the car is nice and quiet.

[ilovedmymantas]

I have seen other cars with charcoal Fanblades on Cavalier Corner's facebook page. I cannot say that they float my boat, but I may feel better about them when fitted - hopefully...
…I am hoping that it is just the colour combination that doesn't work for me, and that Polar Sea Blue will suit the gun-metal grey wheels better

Have you come to a verdict yet?

The car feels smooth, and strangely feels higher above the ground, however there should be no more than a couple of millimtres difference.

After changing over I'm not sure if it's been psychological in the past for me or not.
I think I've reasoned alloys are heavier so driving is smoother, just because the car didn't feel any slower than with original steels.
The bit of extra weight plus the wider tyres and improved grip made me feel much safer overall though