1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
- Envoy CDX
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Hmmm, weird ground fault or something maybe causing that idle issue.
As for the consumption, low temps maybe?
As for the consumption, low temps maybe?
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I have bolts galore Rob, remind me before we meet up in April.Robsey wrote:Found a few more jobs to do...
1 - The driver's front door lower hinge seems very baggy, allowing the door-handle end of the driver's door to be lifted and dropped by a good couple of inches.
Hmm - cannot think of a quick and simple fix. Possibly drill and tap to allow an over-sized bolt to be fitted.
And then drill through to the correct diameter for the lower hinge pin.
2 - Self tapping screw missing from front passenger wing to A Pillar.
I have a few spare self tappers - so hopefully the screw hole isn't too baggy / stripped.
[ Image ]
This jobs list is starting to get very long.
As for the bottom hinge, unless you are going to go from the inside out, and put some kind of plate in the inside it'll need welding round to sort it out. Sooner rather than later too.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Cheers Gary,
I have a bag full of self tappers left over from the restoration.
As for the bottom hinge...
I will look into this.
A good stainless steel / shim steel sleeve may be enough to restore decent operation.
I have a bag full of self tappers left over from the restoration.
As for the bottom hinge...
I will look into this.
A good stainless steel / shim steel sleeve may be enough to restore decent operation.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Has the hinge come away at all?
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Hi Fella,
It hasn't come away... the bottom hole just looks way too baggy and allowing the door to drop...
When I lift up on the rear of the door, there is clearly visible movement between the hinge pin and the bottom lug.
I will see if I can get a video up tomorrow.
Time and weather permitting.
On a good note - I have had a load of toys delivered today... (and last Friday).
Last Friday saw the arrival of a Bosch fuel pressure regulator... silly expensive at about 80 quid...
And today I took delivery of a ** NEW** original Bosch air flow meter. Spotlessly clean inside. A bit of storage muck on the outside.
And a **NEW** original Bosch engine ECU with alphacode GE.
So - assuming the other half doesn't cock up my sunday plans, I plan to get the fuel pressure regulator, ECU and AFM fitted this weekend. Just to be 1000% sure I have also got another engine coolant temperature sensor on the way.
As an update to my recent running issues, after a day or so of use, my new idle control valve appears to have resolved my slow idle / hot start issue. Fingers crossed that I am not speaking too early.
But the fuel consumption is totally rubbish. Hopefully the new parts listed above will sort that.
Failing that - next Tuesday (6th) the cav is going in for a full service, timing belt and MOT.
Hopefully fresh oil and filters will help.
I am leaving the car with the garage for a few days, so that he can take his time and ensure that everything is sorted / completed properly.
The MOT inspection will also give the first indication of how good last year's coatings have held up.
It hasn't come away... the bottom hole just looks way too baggy and allowing the door to drop...
When I lift up on the rear of the door, there is clearly visible movement between the hinge pin and the bottom lug.
I will see if I can get a video up tomorrow.
Time and weather permitting.
On a good note - I have had a load of toys delivered today... (and last Friday).
Last Friday saw the arrival of a Bosch fuel pressure regulator... silly expensive at about 80 quid...
And today I took delivery of a ** NEW** original Bosch air flow meter. Spotlessly clean inside. A bit of storage muck on the outside.
And a **NEW** original Bosch engine ECU with alphacode GE.
So - assuming the other half doesn't cock up my sunday plans, I plan to get the fuel pressure regulator, ECU and AFM fitted this weekend. Just to be 1000% sure I have also got another engine coolant temperature sensor on the way.
As an update to my recent running issues, after a day or so of use, my new idle control valve appears to have resolved my slow idle / hot start issue. Fingers crossed that I am not speaking too early.
But the fuel consumption is totally rubbish. Hopefully the new parts listed above will sort that.
Failing that - next Tuesday (6th) the cav is going in for a full service, timing belt and MOT.
Hopefully fresh oil and filters will help.
I am leaving the car with the garage for a few days, so that he can take his time and ensure that everything is sorted / completed properly.
The MOT inspection will also give the first indication of how good last year's coatings have held up.
- ilovedmymantas
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I've got to agree. My eco is 0.3 cold, 0,2 warm.Robsey wrote:But the fuel consumption is totally rubbish..
I'd expect the same as you had or better after all the attention you've given to your car.
Fingers crossed they do, it would be nice to have a break now and again !Robsey wrote: Hopefully the new parts listed above will sort that.
Just a thought, your hinge pins might have lost their 'resistance'.
Might be worth replacing them as a start then considering a wide scew as a spreader if that doesn't solve it.
I've had this bookmarked for a while, It fits and might help
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Agi ... 1438.l2649
" It's not rust. It's age-related patina "
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
1980 vauxhall cavalier MK1 1.6L, 1982 opel manta berlinetta 1.8s, 1985 opel manta 2.0 gte, 1990 cavalier 2.0 gl ,1994 cavalier sri x20xev
-1995 cdx x20xev
---------------
Matt
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Regarding the hinge pins - they were all new parts that were fitted at the restoration.
I hate to say it, but before the restoration, the only issue was rust and slack front steering and suspension.
New GM / Febi / Bilstein / Bosch / Delphi parts were lavished on the car - no expense spared and hoping that all worn or faulty parts would have been sorted on the way.
But the car continues to be one job after another since.
After virtually bankrupting myself, I feel I cannot just throw the towel in and walk away.
Although it does often seem an easier solution.
I have regularly said for the last 18 months... I should have scrapped the Cav and kept the Yaris... but hey ho.
(Save £7000 doing up a rust bucket and run a problem free £200 Yaris).
I hate to say it, but before the restoration, the only issue was rust and slack front steering and suspension.
New GM / Febi / Bilstein / Bosch / Delphi parts were lavished on the car - no expense spared and hoping that all worn or faulty parts would have been sorted on the way.
But the car continues to be one job after another since.
After virtually bankrupting myself, I feel I cannot just throw the towel in and walk away.
Although it does often seem an easier solution.
I have regularly said for the last 18 months... I should have scrapped the Cav and kept the Yaris... but hey ho.
(Save £7000 doing up a rust bucket and run a problem free £200 Yaris).
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I will post up a list shortly...
You will understand why people get fed up of throwing good money after bad.
So both engine coolant temperature sensor and gauge sensor arrived today.
So I now have everything ready for Sunday.
So jobs to do are -
Full Service,
Timing Belt,
Fit ECU, AFM, FPR, ECT sensor.
Replace broken heater cables.
Replace loose driver's side sill cover.
Re-glue roof lining that is still peeling across the front edge.
Repair unresponsive central locking motors (×3).
Investigate wiring from boot lock as it does not trigger central locking.
Repair slow puncture in front left tyre.
Finish wiring up 3rd brake light.
Investigate water ingress into boot.
Replace bulb in front left foglight.
Replace faulty horn - only one tone works.
Find and fit seat rail rear end covers.
Fit cruise control. Optional
Finally get the alloys refurbed. Optional.
I think I have sacked the idea of fitting the full CAN infotainment system again.
Or to save money - set fire to the fu@#!n& thing.
You will understand why people get fed up of throwing good money after bad.
So both engine coolant temperature sensor and gauge sensor arrived today.
So I now have everything ready for Sunday.
So jobs to do are -
Full Service,
Timing Belt,
Fit ECU, AFM, FPR, ECT sensor.
Replace broken heater cables.
Replace loose driver's side sill cover.
Re-glue roof lining that is still peeling across the front edge.
Repair unresponsive central locking motors (×3).
Investigate wiring from boot lock as it does not trigger central locking.
Repair slow puncture in front left tyre.
Finish wiring up 3rd brake light.
Investigate water ingress into boot.
Replace bulb in front left foglight.
Replace faulty horn - only one tone works.
Find and fit seat rail rear end covers.
Fit cruise control. Optional
Finally get the alloys refurbed. Optional.
I think I have sacked the idea of fitting the full CAN infotainment system again.
Or to save money - set fire to the fu@#!n& thing.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I think you need a break from things on the Cav Rob, it's clearly bringing you down.
As for the issues you're experiencing the door pin slot, wondering if they were squished down when the doors were removed for paint?
The engine issues, I still feel is wiring / ECU related. But hopefully you'll see some joy with the new bits you've bought for the cav.
As for the issues you're experiencing the door pin slot, wondering if they were squished down when the doors were removed for paint?
The engine issues, I still feel is wiring / ECU related. But hopefully you'll see some joy with the new bits you've bought for the cav.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Hmm - I just need to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
But I get the feeling that the light has been turned off due to cut backs - ha ha.
As said all door pins were supplied new ready for re-hanging of the doors.
They are also proper GM dealer parts.
I never thought of using a screw to splay out the pin in the hinge stub.
I have plenty of screws that may do the trick.
But I get the feeling that the light has been turned off due to cut backs - ha ha.
As said all door pins were supplied new ready for re-hanging of the doors.
They are also proper GM dealer parts.
I never thought of using a screw to splay out the pin in the hinge stub.
I have plenty of screws that may do the trick.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Don't get disheartened Rob.
The light hasn't gone off, it's just turned a corner.
The light hasn't gone off, it's just turned a corner.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
But where they used?Robsey wrote:
As said all door pins were supplied new ready for re-hanging of the doors.
.
Anyhoo, I'll be down in April time hopefully catching up as planned and I'll have a gander then. Hopefully it'll be something really silly. I know how hard it can be being too close to the problem where the light seems so bleak even farts have more appeal but you will get there
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Hmm - you have never experienced my farts - lol.
It will get there - I am just hoping that I can have all the new parts fitted on Sunday, ready for the MOT on Tuesday.
The usual format is...
MOT first to find any issues.
Full Service and address any issues found during the test.
Finally, replace the timing belt... a modestly quick job on the 8 valve units.
Hopefully May will bring nice weather, and I can get on with my rake of jobs.
Instrument cluster surrounds, steering collumn shrouds and heater panel out job - again.
Fitting of heater cables and minor wiring tweaks.
Possibly fit cruise wiring, although I am struggling to find a connector for the clutch switch. (Little rectangular 2 pin plug).
Cable tie wiring back securely and put everything back again.
I had elected not to go to work today (Thursday) due to the snow... but with the crazy winds, I simply didn't fancy working on the car today either.
So stayed indoors freezing to death faffing with the old laptop.
GlobalTIS will be the death of me - ha ha.
It will get there - I am just hoping that I can have all the new parts fitted on Sunday, ready for the MOT on Tuesday.
The usual format is...
MOT first to find any issues.
Full Service and address any issues found during the test.
Finally, replace the timing belt... a modestly quick job on the 8 valve units.
Hopefully May will bring nice weather, and I can get on with my rake of jobs.
Instrument cluster surrounds, steering collumn shrouds and heater panel out job - again.
Fitting of heater cables and minor wiring tweaks.
Possibly fit cruise wiring, although I am struggling to find a connector for the clutch switch. (Little rectangular 2 pin plug).
Cable tie wiring back securely and put everything back again.
I had elected not to go to work today (Thursday) due to the snow... but with the crazy winds, I simply didn't fancy working on the car today either.
So stayed indoors freezing to death faffing with the old laptop.
GlobalTIS will be the death of me - ha ha.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
It's pap when you get to those stages. As for MOT - esssentials only.
Clutch switch connector And Vectra B usually has it tucked away above the pedal. I am hoping to get to UPullIt in York later this month for some Yaris bits so I will hunt about the Vectra section too. about 6 inches of loom enough to give you something to work with and extend? I'm trying to remember if on of the leads piggy backs off the break switch (it has been ALONG time since I really thought about any of this now )
Timing belt is one of those jobs you can lash off in 90 minutes, or spend all day taking your time over, weather and how you feel on the day is the matter of course.
But yeah, electing not to go to work for your own safety is one thing. Pissing about inthe snow after doing such is another.. Last time I did that I ended up scrapping a very solid cav cos I was ill for a month afterwards. L860BFT only needed fuel lines too
Clutch switch connector And Vectra B usually has it tucked away above the pedal. I am hoping to get to UPullIt in York later this month for some Yaris bits so I will hunt about the Vectra section too. about 6 inches of loom enough to give you something to work with and extend? I'm trying to remember if on of the leads piggy backs off the break switch (it has been ALONG time since I really thought about any of this now )
Timing belt is one of those jobs you can lash off in 90 minutes, or spend all day taking your time over, weather and how you feel on the day is the matter of course.
But yeah, electing not to go to work for your own safety is one thing. Pissing about inthe snow after doing such is another.. Last time I did that I ended up scrapping a very solid cav cos I was ill for a month afterwards. L860BFT only needed fuel lines too
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Cheers Gary,
I have a 4 pin brake light switch with some wires...
It is the little white clutch switch that I cannot find the connector for.
As for wire length.. anything over 2 inches is enough.
I will solder and sleeve onto it regardless of length.
I have a 4 pin brake light switch with some wires...
It is the little white clutch switch that I cannot find the connector for.
As for wire length.. anything over 2 inches is enough.
I will solder and sleeve onto it regardless of length.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Woohoo - finally some sunshine and a drop in the strong gale force winds.
This meant that I could actually play at fixing stuff.
So I replaced the Air Flow Meter, Fuel Pressure Regulator and the engine ECU.
As said previously, all three parts were new or new-old-stock original Bosch parts.
No pictures mean it didn't happen...
So here are some pictures care of PostImage.com
According to the time stamps on my pictures, the whole job took about an hour and fifteen minutes. Including a two mile test drive.
So first was to disconnect my fuel pump, to remove the pressure in the hoses from the fuel pressure regulator.
Turned the engine over a few times to prove that it would not run.
And then disconnect the battery earth lead.
First actual job was to fit the Air Flow Meter.
As it is built into the filter housing lid, it meant that I could disconnect the loom plug, main air pipe and split the filter casing.
Once I had done this, I could sit in the car and swap the meter units.
1 x M8 bolt in the side of the body (13mm spanner) and
4 x M6 bolts with U shaped stiffening plates. (10mm spanner) These hold the meter against the opening of the filter lid.
You need to slide out a square shaped funnel to access on of the bolts.
You will know what I mean if you look inside the filter lid.
Re-assemble the filter casing and refit loom plug and main air intake hose.
2nd job was the fuel pressure regulator.
A bit of a pig of a job to get at the fuel pipe jubillee clips and slide the hoses off the stubs. But we got there.
In the image, you can see the new shiny pressure regulator. And my new idle control valve above it, that I fitted recently.
Again, an original new Bosch part.
Last job was to fit the replacement ECU.
A simple matter of removing two self tapping screws that hold a clamp bracket in place - use 8mm socket. This is all hidden behind the kick panel trim.
Removing the two self tappers allow you to remove the fuel pump relay, 3 x connectors and central locking module from the inner wing, to expose 3 x m5 flange nuts.
Again only really accessible with a 8mm socket.
I didn't take pictures of this bit, but I promise that it was done.
Refit the fuel pump connector and reconnect the battery earth lead.
A brief 2 mile run up and down the local streets got the car up to temperature.
I can say that the car was very keen and smooth. Just got to see if the emissions improve after the 23 miles round trip to work tomorrow.
The fuel computer is not showing any improvement yet, but then the ECU may still have some learning to do.
Update - a good run out tonight including a trip up the motorway still gave an idling figure of 0.4 gal/ hour.
This meant that I could actually play at fixing stuff.
So I replaced the Air Flow Meter, Fuel Pressure Regulator and the engine ECU.
As said previously, all three parts were new or new-old-stock original Bosch parts.
No pictures mean it didn't happen...
So here are some pictures care of PostImage.com
According to the time stamps on my pictures, the whole job took about an hour and fifteen minutes. Including a two mile test drive.
So first was to disconnect my fuel pump, to remove the pressure in the hoses from the fuel pressure regulator.
Turned the engine over a few times to prove that it would not run.
And then disconnect the battery earth lead.
First actual job was to fit the Air Flow Meter.
As it is built into the filter housing lid, it meant that I could disconnect the loom plug, main air pipe and split the filter casing.
Once I had done this, I could sit in the car and swap the meter units.
1 x M8 bolt in the side of the body (13mm spanner) and
4 x M6 bolts with U shaped stiffening plates. (10mm spanner) These hold the meter against the opening of the filter lid.
You need to slide out a square shaped funnel to access on of the bolts.
You will know what I mean if you look inside the filter lid.
Re-assemble the filter casing and refit loom plug and main air intake hose.
2nd job was the fuel pressure regulator.
A bit of a pig of a job to get at the fuel pipe jubillee clips and slide the hoses off the stubs. But we got there.
In the image, you can see the new shiny pressure regulator. And my new idle control valve above it, that I fitted recently.
Again, an original new Bosch part.
Last job was to fit the replacement ECU.
A simple matter of removing two self tapping screws that hold a clamp bracket in place - use 8mm socket. This is all hidden behind the kick panel trim.
Removing the two self tappers allow you to remove the fuel pump relay, 3 x connectors and central locking module from the inner wing, to expose 3 x m5 flange nuts.
Again only really accessible with a 8mm socket.
I didn't take pictures of this bit, but I promise that it was done.
Refit the fuel pump connector and reconnect the battery earth lead.
A brief 2 mile run up and down the local streets got the car up to temperature.
I can say that the car was very keen and smooth. Just got to see if the emissions improve after the 23 miles round trip to work tomorrow.
The fuel computer is not showing any improvement yet, but then the ECU may still have some learning to do.
Update - a good run out tonight including a trip up the motorway still gave an idling figure of 0.4 gal/ hour.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Busy boy! I have looked at my pressure regulator from time to time and thought what an inaccessible place to put it! Any idea what the regulated pressure is?
Alan
Alan
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
It depends on the injection system.
Rochester Multec (Single Point Injections) are 0.76 bar
Motronic Multi Point Injection is dependent upon specific program / firmware.
M1.5 =
Feed 1.8 to 2.2 bar
Return is 0.3 to 1.5 bar
(This is what GE alpha-coded C20NE uses).
M2.5 = 2.0 to 2.2 bar
M2.8 = 2.2 to 2.7 bar
M4.1 =
Feed 2.3 to 2.7 bar
Return 0.3 to 1.5 bar
Haynes does not give figures for Simtec.
Rochester Multec (Single Point Injections) are 0.76 bar
Motronic Multi Point Injection is dependent upon specific program / firmware.
M1.5 =
Feed 1.8 to 2.2 bar
Return is 0.3 to 1.5 bar
(This is what GE alpha-coded C20NE uses).
M2.5 = 2.0 to 2.2 bar
M2.8 = 2.2 to 2.7 bar
M4.1 =
Feed 2.3 to 2.7 bar
Return 0.3 to 1.5 bar
Haynes does not give figures for Simtec.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
How did it turn out?
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
No change...economy is still poo.
We shall see if a service improves matters.
The old girl goes into the garage for a few days tomorrow.
Hopefully have a new 12 month MOT ticket by Friday.
We shall see if a service improves matters.
The old girl goes into the garage for a few days tomorrow.
Hopefully have a new 12 month MOT ticket by Friday.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I still think it is a bad ground, or something really really small.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
I have checked the ground wires 6 times over...
Well a fair few times with nothing obvious amiss.
To be honest, the oil in the sump has been in the car for a fair few years, so probably not helping.
Hence the long-overdue full service.
Well a fair few times with nothing obvious amiss.
To be honest, the oil in the sump has been in the car for a fair few years, so probably not helping.
Hence the long-overdue full service.
Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse
Well the car has gone for some well deserved TLC...
Call it a couple of days respite.
I will no doubt get a call when it is time to dig out my wallet. ha ha.
Chances are it will be Friday.
Call it a couple of days respite.
I will no doubt get a call when it is time to dig out my wallet. ha ha.
Chances are it will be Friday.