1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

[Robsey]

Another handy tip on it's way...

Prior to the stripping of the front end of the Cavalier, I used to have set of angel eyes fitted with the matt black background.

I had long pondered whether to keep them or to refit my original head light assemblies.

My mind was almost made up for me when I noticed two problems.

The range adjust on the right unit had snapped off - the result of simply using epoxy resin to sort a previous failure.

Access had been prevented by a previous owner sikaflexing the lens glass into the housing.

The first issue was sorted by getting a small hss drill mounted on an extension.

This allowed me to fit a longer bolt after grinding the head to a small enough diameter

Now then the sikaflex ..
How to get it off.

I had been told by many people to use heat.
Not a good idea on a plastic housing.

The answer...
Place the unit glass down in my sink and fill the sink with gradually hotter water.

I built up the heat slowly to prevent the glass "shocking" and shattering.
After 5 minutes in a Turkish bath, it was possible to slip a flat screwdriver between the glass and the casing and gently pry them apart.
The sikaflex becomes stretchier and so I was able to provide a big enough gap between the glass and casing to slip a knife into the gap and slice along the gap.

Eh voila separated items.
My glass lens is in my dish washer to get that "chrystal shine" - lol.

I will do the other one in the next few days..

[Robsey]

The light unit with the glass removed.



You can see that drilling the assembly flaked a piece off.
It is very brittle poor quality Taiwan produced alloy.
The self tapping screw is just the right length. It was also reinforced with fresh epoxy resin.

It will be easy enough to fill the damage and dress it off.
And finish off with a nice blow-over of matt black paint for the win.

[Envoy CDX]

All progressing nicely Rob.

[Robsey]

I have my trailing arm, struts and anti-roll bars to work on, but every time I set my head outside, the heavens opened...
Even thunder and lightning very close by mid-afternoon.

So indoor faffing it was.

This evening, whilst the wife was sleeping, I looked at a few LED ideas.

Firstly the freshly cleaned and repaired angel eye headlight...

Hmm - which is better?
The LEDs or the little bulbs.
There is minimal difference in brighness, but I did notice that all the bulbs were blackened, so not going to be at their potential best.

Three things in favour of LEDs is the lifespan, modern look and cooler running.

The bulbs got very hot quite quickly.





Then toying with the idea of a thinner heater panel...
Gary will know what it is off - even uses the same fan switch and mechanisms as the Cavalier.



The LEDs that I am using have three smd devices fitted - one at the top and two on opposing sides.
These are bright white, but "warm" white could be used to replicate normal bulb colour.

Just for information, I use an old desk top computer power supply to run all my projects on the kitchen counter top.
Even do all my car radio / display programming using the computer power supply.
Anything that doesn't drink up too much current.

[Envoy CDX]

Ah! Finally gettin the Carlton parts in the cav then
The SMD's look fancy too!

[Robsey]

I have been stripping my rear beam today, and after lifting the spring seat insulator thingies, I have noticed that both spring seats are shot.

One side is cracked, and the other has rotted enough to develop a hole.

Both seats are thin and crusty enough to scrunch when you handle them.

There is also a lot of corrosion under the seats too.

After a brief chat with Troy,
It was thought better to see if I can get another assembly in better condition.

Poor Troy, I think he is fed up of working on my car - lol

Anyway - here are some pictures.

[Greig Sri]

My axle was exctly the same. I got new spring seats made with 3mm thick sheet steal. The diameter was slightly bigger than the old rusted ones. So that when I welded them on I was welding to good metal. I also welded all the way around them . See my work in progress thred, i only fixed my axle this weekend past. Easy fix as trying to find a rear axle with good spring seats will be near impossible I think.

Greig

[Robsey]

Just like the rest of my car...
There was not much sign of solid weldable metal on my trailing arm...

All crusty and flaky as far as the eye could see.

Although I have a possibility of a decent trailing arm approx 50 miles from me.

[Greig Sri]

My axle looked bad till it was blast cleaned. The cleaning showed up a hole under each spring seat. That was fixed by welding on my new stronger spring seats. Here's a close up pic of how rusted it was.



Greig

[Envoy CDX]

I'd be tempted to get a flappy disk on a grinder and see how bad it really is before condeming the rear beam Rob.
Saying that, if you're getting a full rear beam - get it complete with discs, calipers and so on (I know, I won't let up on this one..).

[Robsey]

Well - a bit cheesed tonight.

Was going to repair the alloy on my Depo Angel eye headlamp.
Anyway - it is now scrap.

I was carefully separating the lens glass from the plastic body using specialist plastic tyre levers when "pop" the lens broke up into a dozen pieces.



So that's it then - I have next to no chance of finding a replacement glass for this unit.

Damn that sikaflex.... grrr!!

Ah well - I am glad I didn't sell my standard headlamps... just hope I kept the electric adjuster motors etc.

Just for info - the Depo lenses have no beam bending ribs moulded into the lens glass - it is just flat glass. The beam shape is formed by a shaped metal plate behind the projector lens...
So a standard lens glass is not suitable..
Bugger !!!

I have seen new complete sets tonight on ebay.de for just over £100 delivered from Germany...
Just don't know if I can justify the cost or not.

[Envoy CDX]

Yeoutch!
Was it worth the upgrade last time in terms of light output?

[James McGrath]

Ah well - I am glad I didn't sell my standard headlamps... just hope I kept the electric adjuster motors etc

I believe you gave me a motor years ago for the cost of postage. Still working like a trooper in my LS.

I've got 3 or 4 spares now though so if you need one I'm more than happy to return the favor.

[Robsey]

Yeoutch!
Was it worth the upgrade last time in terms of light output?

No improvement at all in light output and illumination of the roads

But they do look a bit more modern and funky than the original units.

After what I have thrown on the Cav so far - another £103 (delivered from Germany) isn't going to make much difference. I am tempted to get another set and then do some LED tricks with the halo's.

Wiring on these is a piece of cake.
(Paul complains that cakes do not get mentioned enough - ha ha).

Thanks for the offer James -
looks like I won't be needing any - sort of convinced myself to go with the Angel Eyes again... I am a gadgets and toys man at heart.

[Robsey]

Regarding the halo units.

I may do an information / How 2 thread about them, as there had been a lot of queries a few years ago and confusion about how they are wired up and how they should work.
One of the many proposed threads on my list.

In simple terms - My Depo units simply plugged straight in.
Three pin connector for dip and main beams (Both H7 bulbs by the way).

A separate two pin connector for the halos directly from the side light connector.
Each halo consists of a ring of 4 small dash-type bulbs - code is W5W, T5 or 286 bulbs.
Remember there are two halos per cluster. (All 8 of the halo bulbs are wired in parrallel )
There is nothing to stop you from splitting the wiring between the two rings to illuminate them independently or to wire one up as a daytime running light and the other as an indicator - it is all down to your imagination.

[Envoy CDX]

That took some arm twisting Rob..

[Robsey]

I know

I just think they look better.

Just for info - they are cheaper from Depo Germany even allowing for carriage and exchange rates.

Normal UK price for FK units is about £144 plus post.
German Depo price is about £109 all in.

This includes both headlamp units complete and matching indicators.
The only thing that I did not see on the sales image was the H7 bulbs.
(Black internals as opposed to the chrome ones that were considered more common at one time.)

Obviously two brand new standard Cavalier headlamps are much cheaper than that. - As little as £50 for two on ebay.

[Robsey]

Had a huge parcel arrive at work today.
Wasn't expecting anything to arrive until next week.

The German writing on the box meant only one thing.

These -





very clean and shiny.

I also picked up my replacement rear beam yesterday...



Not shiny, but in very solid condition.
Even all the arb bolts came undone without a fight...

Now to get everything stripped, bead blasted and powder coated...

Just need to arrange a trip to Chicago's in Mossley - the tricky bit is that their working hours are the same as mine..
Hmm - tricky...

[Lowrider Dave]

Just need to arrange a trip to Chicago's in Mossley - the tricky bit is that their working hours are the same as mine..

I'm sure you have a Doctor's appointment later this week...

[Robsey]

More new parts..

At 22 pence each - four new sleeves for the bolt that goes vertically through the wishbone into the body.



Some literature says that you don't need to fit them.
But I prefer to - and you can't grumble at that price.

I also ordered 2 bottom spring rubbers for the rear trailing arm.
Yes they are still available brand new from the "factory" for about £10 a side.
I got a GPS one for £ 7 1/2, but it looks really old and has a visual appearance of "distress cracking".



If my new one from Lookers Ellesmere Port looks a lot different then I may just order another new one.
I also ordered two rubber "bearings" for the ends of the rear anti roll bar.
I will be picking up the Lookers parts on Tuesday next week

[Robsey]

Some more parts from Lookers Ellesmere Port...





As a side topic...
Who ever said that Cavaliers were well built or reliable?

I have been sorting all my receipts and service documents for the car since it was purchased in December 1995.

In December 1996 I have 3 !!! invoices within 2 weeks, all for a pair of wheel cylinders.
Each for a different supplier. (???)

We had the rear dampers replaced at 18 months after first registration due to leakages.

5 radiators between 1994 and 1998 !!
All original Serck items.

3 radio displays for the SC303 radio because the wife kept loosing them.

I cannot believe how many receipts we have within 2 years of buying the thing.

[Robsey]

Okay - more original parts...

Gear linkage bolt... this is a modified version of a tubular pin.
Weird!!



Then there is a set of original locking wheel bolts...



Then proper wishbones... strangely the cost of two wishbones complete with sleeves and all M12 bolts was cheaper than buying just the bolts from the main dealer.



Finally a set of original gm pendulums.
Anti roll bar drop links.
Note that original links do not come with the rubber bushes.

[Envoy CDX]

More posh bits going on then I gather

[Robsey]

Aye - even more bits next week when I return to Manchester.
Currently 260 miles further south in Devon until Saturday.

[Robsey]

This must be the bargain of the year...

New old stock left front suspension knuckle. Part number 90373288
Current retail price is about €435 + or £350 from Vauxhall / Opel.

Bought it from a vendor who had bought a job lot of ex-dealer parts.

£29 delivered... get in!!

Sadly I cannot get hold of a new right knuckle for a similar price. (Part number 90373289 ).

Other new genuine parts this week include a pair of mirror casings in primer grey and a Vauxhall universal "3rd brake-light" kit.


And as if one project isn't enough... a check control unit for fitment to my VW T25 Transporter... The wasserboxer flat 4 engines are very fragile and require continuous sensor monitoring.
(The later water-cooled vehicles are fitted with a "Buzzer of Doom".
Very comforting - lol ).