1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

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James McGrath
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by James McGrath »

Yeah, probably should have checked the weather report in your area before I posted that.
It's been brilliant sunshine all day here.
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Robsey
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

No worries it has been nice all week, until about 5pm tonight.
You cannot trust weather reports anyway.

The main thing is - it's play time!! :thumb
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Mk3alan
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Mk3alan »

Congrats! Been a long slog but you got there, well done.
Gonna treat it to some anti corrosion wax now? Don't wanna be doing that all again!

Alan
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Robsey
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

All the waxing and stuff has been done by Troy.

You name, it has been treated with it.
Noxudol, FE123, panel sealant and truck bed liner to name a few.

Can't say I have done much.
Just the final refit of the interior and a few fixes. About three days worth of work to get to MOT stage.

Other than that I did three days last july to refit all the suspension and steering components along with the fuel tank.

I have been playing with electrics and CANbus stuff for the past two years. But have not fitted any of it. D'oh.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

So feed back from the garage this morning when I collected the old girl.

Feedback from the Garage.

Welding - "If there had been 2 layers of shultz, the welding would not be visible"
Paintwork - a bit thin in patches.

Right headlamp is loose.

The emissions issue is due to the cat.

Clutch pedal is very heavy.
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Robsey
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

My first proper drive to work and back was sadly quite uninspiring.

The engine side of things feels absolutely spot on. Very willing and smooth.

The disappointment is in the clutch and gear selection.
I feel that I need legs like Geoff Capes to operate the clutch. Very hard work.
And the gears are very difficult to select.
I haven't crunched the gears, but it just feels like the clutch cable is out of adjustment.
I really have to push the gear stick hard into 1st and 2nd.

Hopefully just a minor teething / adjustment issue.
I cannot be 100% certain that the Astra-G gear stick modification (19% shorter lever throw) hasn't created a 19% increase in gear lever selection effort.
(Standard pivot mechanical science - force x distance... blah blah blah).

So as it stands - I haven't regained my love for the car yet.
Hopefully some basic maintenance / adjustments throughout the next 6 / warmer summer months will get the niggles sorted.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

Hmm teething problems a plenty..

The rear wiper had stopped working when I fitted the bushes to the spindle a few weeks ago.
Checked the wiring and all is intact.
Scratched my head and put it all back together.
After a lengthy time lag, the wiper started working. But only once in a while like an intermittent wipe with a long pause between each stroke. How odd.

Fitted a bulb in the glove box... but had to repair the bulb holder first. Re-shaped / bent the metal strips and service was resumed.

I was going to do a temporary connection of my heat control hot / cold adjustment bowden cable... but there was too much clagg down the back of the dash and couldn't feed the cable through cleanly - so thought stuff-it for now ... until I fit a complete heater panel complete with all 3 bowden cables.

Last job of the day was to replace my distributor cap in a bid to improve emissions.
Sadly it made no difference.

I have a Bosch Lambda sensor on order reduced from 109 quid to about 60.

At the moment my at rest litres/hour is hovering about 0.4.
Normally on it's current settings in the fuel computer it would have been 0.3 litres per hour.
Not sure if it is litres or gallons per hour but it is safe to say that my fuel economy is about 1/3 out for the worse.

I am just going through everything on a tick list to try to locate the source of my engine's thirstiness.

So far replaced have been: -
1 - Rotor and distributor
2 - ECU Coolant temperature sensor
3 - throttle position sensor.

It needs a damn good service...and a cat.
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Mk3alan
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Mk3alan »

Think the tickover fuel consumption is a little bit high but not by much? my 1.8 Astra uses (according to computer) 0.2 gall/HR and when in drive it goes up to 0.3 gall/HR
I know it's a different engine and yours is bigger but it seems in a similar ball park.

Alan
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Robsey
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

Believe it or not, the fuel consumption between a C18NZ and a C20NE is almost the same.
In fact despite the extra 25 horsepower the C20NE comes in slightly more economical on all speed ranges (local urban roads, motorway and combined).
(Figures taken from 1994 owners manual).

But I know that the fuel computer is callibrated to a C20XE not a C20NE.
Code 130 I believe.
Hence the slight inaccuracey.
My concern is that at this point in time, the fuel consumption is a fair bit naff.

One thing I haven't checked is the air mass meter.


I have ordered a timing belt kit and water pump... it is 6 years since I fitted the C20NE and about 30,000 miles.
So looks like another job for the list this summer.
(I try to aim for every 5 years or 32,000 miles whichever is reached first).
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Mk3alan »

My 1.8 Astra supposedly develops 118 bhp my 2.0 Cavalier (non cat) develops 115 bhp but I find the Cavalier more economical! Best I have had is 54 mpg, best from the Astra was 48 mpg although it is automatic and lower geared.
Make sure you get the correct tooth profile on the belt and pump! I have been caught out!

Alan
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

No worries - both the pump and the timing belt kit are GM parts ordered using the donor vehicle's VIN to which the C20NE engine number relates.

It feels like the clutch is indeed getting a little lighter with use.
Probably because I put some copper grease on the pedal pivot and spring and left it for a day or so.
It was actually a pleasure to drive today.

Just waiting for some decent weather so that I can play some more.

Image

I am awaiting the arrival of a hugely over-priced original leather gear knob and 5 speed badge to come all the way from Opel in Germany. :roll:

There is an irritating rough area at the bottom of the Astra-G part - so despite not being essential to replace, it has to go
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

Oh Eck!!

I discovered today that my brand new gear knob will not fit the astra gear stick.
Gutted!!

I spent a small fortune on a genuine knob and badge that I cannot use.

The reason is the size of the recess in the bottom of the knob that sits over the reverse selector pull-up collar.

The astra collar is much bigger. :wall
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

More fun and frolics today.

The car has started rattling underneath.
Sounds like a caribbean steel band playing a soca medley using baked bean tins full of stones.

Absolutely no doubt that the monolyth is breaking up inside the cat.

Also fitted a new lambda sensor. It made no difference to the consumption figures, but it may have slightly smoothed the idle.

It does still need new oil and plugs... :roll:
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by James McGrath »

That's a bit of a bummer.
I do have a spare gearstick somewhere, I have a feeling that it's from an Astra as well though.

The cat seems like the biggest suspect for the poor fuel economy to me.
The usual list of culprits spring to mind though:
sticking brake callipers
old and tired wheel bearings
clogged fuel injectors
bad ignition coil
vacuum leaks

Though I suspect you've either replaced most of that during your rebuild or checked it already.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

Indeed James..

I completely replaced the front discs and pads, and Troy cleaned and un-seized the front callipers.

New rotor and dizzy cap...
New ecu coolant temperature sensor and throttle position sensor...
New lambda sensor.

Just needs new oil (3 years old and probably tainted with restoration dust) and probably spark plugs.
To be honest, the actual fuel consumption is quite satisfactory... about 275 miles on 25 litres of juice.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by James McGrath »

Ah I see. When you said the new o2 sensor made no difference to the consumption figures I assumed you was getting poor fuel economy.

Those consumption figures are excellent. I never get anywhere near that.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

Apologies....

I sometimes get a bit paranoid about what gauges and displays tell me.
(Remember about the 10 pages of this WIP with me faffing back and forth because I got hung up on my digi-dash oil pressure gauge.)

A bit of the same here...
In the days before the resto, the fuel computer used to tell me that my consumption at stand still and at idle was normally 0.3 gallons per hour.

Since the resto, the same gauge has been reading 0.4 gallons per hour.
So an inferred 33% increase in consumption.

--------------------------

Okay - todays antics.
I got some new plugs for fitting on Sunday.
(Hopefully).
Some NGK BPR6EK - twin electrode items.
(I thought it was BPR6ES but hey ho.)
My local factors is an avid fan of the Cavalier especially with the eight valve lump fitted.
He was keen to assure me that these should be the only plugs used on my engine.

I don't know / care as long as they work well.

I know that Troy was distinctly NOT a fan of the twin electrode jobbies.

I was going to get some oil, until I saw the price.... I nearly cried when I saw a price tag of £44.... :shock:

Last time I bought oil, I cringed at £26 for 5 litres. That is the problem of remembering what you used to spend in the nineties.
Duckhams Hypergrade was only £12.99 for 5 litres.

It seems rediculous to penny pinch on oil when you've spent nearly £7k on a restoration.
It just caused me to nearly have a panic attack - ha ha.

Now then Rob, stop waffling...

Progress.

Bit of a clean and copper grease evening...

1 - I have had a gummed up ignition lock from all the resto dust, meaning that I could take out my key, but the barrel would not lock the collumn. A liberal spraying with contact cleaner soon had the lock working smoothly. It will get a dose of WD40 on Sunday.

2 - I have had a really stiff gear change.
Initially I blamed it on the clutch being out of adjustment. I looked under my gear lever gaitor to see a very thick blanket of dust on the gear stick and selector shaft as it disappears under the dash.
Another liberal spraying of contact cleaner and then an even coating of copper grease on the selector shaft and the gear stick is now moving easily and smoothly.

3 - I ventured into the engine bay to give the throttle cable attachment and associated linkage on the throttle body a good clean and then a smear of copper grease.
Again the linkage has now freed up beautifully and snaps happily back to it's resting point when released.

4 - Cleaned and copper greased the bonnet release mechanism, pin and catch.

5 - Next job... I put some copper gease on the driver's door check strap.
I could feel it scraping a bit with an associated creaking noise when I opened and closed the door.
Hopefully it will soon become quieter and smoother.

6 - My one-touch sunroof stopped working on the way home... it would only retract back into the roof cavity.
Hmm - what gives I thought.

Then I remembered - I had pulled fuses 12 and 17 a few days ago in a bid to sort a temperamental central locking issue that had just resurfaced with the arrival of warm weather.
Only the driver's door, hatch and fuel flap work off the alarm remote and doorlock.
(Another story for another day).

So back to the sunroof.
Yes I had pulled the fuses and thought nothing about it when I refitted the fuses.

Silly sod - I hadn't synchronised the windows.
Close the windows and keep the close / lift button pressed for a further five seconds.
You will hear the relay trip out after a second or so.

Hey presto - sunroof now fully working, including full closure off the alarm remote.
:cool
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Metallicav
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Metallicav »

Robsey wrote:Oh Eck!!

I discovered today that my brand new gear knob will not fit the astra gear stick.
Gutted!!

The astra collar is much bigger. :wall
If you want to keep the shorter astra gear stick and use the cav gear knob, you can get a standard cavalier gear stick and remove the black and cream plastic pieces that make lift up mechanism.

Split them to put the black plastic bit from the cavalier stick onto the cream piece from the astra stick and then put the newly built astra cream and cavalier black plastic assembly onto the astra stick, attach your new gearknob without the insert (I broke mine in two while installing it!) and your done, I unfortunately don't have any photos of doing mine but it should be clear if you have a gear stick to look at.

Where did you purchase the gear knob and insert from? Still need to replace the insert I broke.
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Robsey
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

I got it imported from Germany by genuine part search.

The badge insert was about £12.
The leather knob was £34.
Nearly 50 quid for a faffing knob n badge.

Still the Astra equivalent is a snip at £99.

:shock:

I think I binned my old Cav stick, when I fitted the Astra one.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Metallicav »

Ah, costly mistake on my part then, the insert's going to cost more than what I payed for the whole used assembly, oops.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Envoy CDX »

All progression Rob, how's that clutch now? Or have you developed calves like Arnie?
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

Clutch is much better, but I think it still needs adjusting as it can get quite stiff getting 1st gear - Pedal sqwarks like a bitch, but I think some of that is the sole of my foot squeeking on the worn pedal rubber.

Thinking maybe stiff gear changes could be old dirty oil or a worn synchro.
The gearbox has not had any repairs or maintenance in it's whole life.

It isn't particularly unbearable, and I do a lot of motorway driving and roads above 45mph...
So I can throw it into 5th and forget about the gears and clutch pedal.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Envoy CDX »

I had massive issues with my clutch after putting halfords box oil in it much similar as to what you're describing to be honest Rob, so a good flush through and new GM oil could cure a fair bit of those issues. The pivot arm for the clutch fork is another place I would look at, specifically where it goes through the rubber bush into the box. Especially if there has been alot of sanding going on with the bonnet open - strip it down and get it lubed up with some rubber grease and that makes a world of difference.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by James McGrath »

The gearbox in my LS has never had any maintenance in it's 200,000+ mile life.
That too can be a bit stiff getting into first, especially when it's cold. However, once it's warmed up it has a lovely gear change. Much better than the Diplomat which has fewer miles on it.

The only thing that has ever been changed is the clutch, which was done for the first time about 10,000 miles ago. Since then the pedal is much, much lighter to press and it doesn't squeak so much.
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Re: 1994 Cavalier LSi C20NE (was C18NZ) Work-horse

Post by Robsey »

A bit of play time today...
Still finding bits to fit, so still fitting them - lol

One job I had to do was transfer my glove box lock fron the old door to the new one.
But first remove the original unwanted lock from the new door.

As you may or may not know, there is a dimple on the inside of the glovebox door right behind the lock.

All you do is knock a pin punch through the dimple, and then continue tapping the pin punch through the hole that you have just made.
The lock assembly should pop out of the front of the door.

Refitting is just a matter of a firm push into the hole in the door.

Being the lucky person I am, the barrel partially came out of it's housing ejecting a spring and one of the lock plates.
Bugger.!!
I found the lock plate, but had to get a spring from the unwanted original lock from the new door.
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