Lowrider Dave's V6

[Lowrider Dave]

Details to come soon!

[Squig]

Shortest WIP ever!

[Lowrider Dave]

This'll do for the moment.



1995 Cavalier 2.5 V6 Manual CDX75k Mileage
Lowered on 40mm eibach springs
Heated seats
Electric windows/sunroof
Remote central locking
4 Excellent Tyres Goodyear/Continetal
No Tax or MOT
All for £250.


MOT today - Fail!

O/S Handbrake cable frayed.
O/S Sill rusted.
O/S rear door shut rusted.
Excessive play on both trackrod ends

Needs replacing:
Rear number plate
O/S windscreen wiper
O/S repeater lens

[Gaz]

Thasts not a bad fail just a fail

afternoons work and some fun with the welder.

[Lowrider Dave]

FEB.

Went back in for the retest on Monday, they were to fit a new handbrake cable but were sent the wrong one as it didn't fit, they reordered and it too was the wrong size, they suspect the cables are different because the V6 has rear discs instead of usual drums, so have ordered new cable direct from VX.

They pointed out 3 advisory areas of rust, one is on the front crossmember which, if it's a fairly stright forward job, I'll do myself. The other areas were where the rear springs sit on the floorpan and the nearside door shut/sill. Anyone recommend a good repair shop in the South who could do this kind of repair/replacement? I sold all my welding gear ages ago!

If the car makes it through the rally I will spend some time and money getting rid of the nasty bits and give it a respray.

[Lowrider Dave]

Now have MOT! Just need tax.

[Squig]

congrats on MOT front

[Squig]

I've just realised I may have seen this one before...

http://cavmk3oc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=907

[Lowrider Dave]

I've just realised I may have seen this one before...

http://cavmk3oc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=907

If you mean 'is it the same car' the answer is no.

[Envoy CDX]

Doesn't look bad at all. All standard from the looks of things. They can't fail the sill just because it's rusty.. only if it goes through.
Any new pictures?

[planetc]

Doesn't look bad at all. All standard from the looks of things. They can't fail the sill just because it's rusty.. only if it goes through.
Any new pictures?

can if it is considered to be seriously weakened

[Envoy CDX]

Doesn't look bad at all. All standard from the looks of things. They can't fail the sill just because it's rusty.. only if it goes through.
Any new pictures?

can if it is considered to be seriously weakened

true, testers descretion bites again?

[Squig]

I've just realised I may have seen this one before...

http://cavmk3oc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=907

If you mean 'is it the same car' the answer is no.

Shot down!

Just appeared to show corrosion in similar places

[Lowrider Dave]

I've just realised I may have seen this one before...

http://cavmk3oc.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=907

If you mean 'is it the same car' the answer is no.

Shot down!

Just appeared to show corrosion in similar places

Yeah, I think we all suffer the same corrosion points!

The garage owner showed me the places were they had given me advisories and he said they would be okay for a few years yet but thought he should point them out. I'd be interested in doing the front crossmember if it's possible to do with standard tools and doesn't require removing great lumps of the engine to get to it - anyone done this before?

When I went to get tax on Saturday the lady at the Post Office pointed out my insurance people had put down my registration as a Y plate not as an M! I don't know how I missed this but given the insurance companies all have the clever computers and can check details of what car you have, etc, I'd have thought they could get the reg right. I rang them up and they are going to charge me £17 to alter the paperwork - seriously, for a few seconds twiddling on the computer, give me a break!! Needless to say that put me in a bad mood for a while, at least the Post Office lady gave me the benefit of the doubt and issued the tax disc.

I'll take some new pics when it's not raining and I'm not holed up in a hotel for work.

[TurboSteven77]

Yeah, I think we all suffer the same corrosion points!

The garage owner showed me the places were they had given me advisories and he said they would be okay for a few years yet but thought he should point them out. I'd be interested in doing the front crossmember if it's possible to do with standard tools and doesn't require removing great lumps of the engine to get to it - anyone done this before?

When I went to get tax on Saturday the lady at the Post Office pointed out my insurance people had put down my registration as a Y plate not as an M! I don't know how I missed this but given the insurance companies all have the clever computers and can check details of what car you have, etc, I'd have thought they could get the reg right. I rang them up and they are going to charge me £17 to alter the paperwork - seriously, for a few seconds twiddling on the computer, give me a break!! Needless to say that put me in a bad mood for a while, at least the Post Office lady gave me the benefit of the doubt and issued the tax disc.

I'll take some new pics when it's not raining and I'm not holed up in a hotel for work.[/quote]


i was lucky that way when my insurance made my v6 a auto instead of manual there fault so no charge

[Lowrider Dave]

List of things to do:

1. Get timing belt/tensioner kit done
2. Clear the crankcase pipes
3. Check oil cooler
4. clean off rusted surfaces under car and waxoyl
5. Wash and photos

[Lowrider Dave]

List of things to do:

0. Pick up Vectra steel wheels.
1. Get timing belt/tensioner kit done
2. Check oil cooler - probably just flush system and refill 50/50.
3. Clear the crankcase pipes
4. Clean off rusted surfaces under car and waxoyl
5. Wash and photos
6. Hunt for parts

[Squig]

Seriously on a v6 that you don't know the history, esp with the planned trip, check the cooler. Not a pretty picture if it goes... if your checking the plugs then the cooler is only a small amount of extra effort.

[Lowrider Dave]

List of things to do:

√ Pick up Vectra steel wheels
1. Get timing belt/tensioner kit done
2. Check oil cooler - probably just flush system and refill 50/50.
3. Clear the crankcase pipes
4. Clean off rusted surfaces under car and waxoyl
5. Wash and photos
6. Hunt for parts
7. Wait until September and the rally.

[Lowrider Dave]

Got Omega bonnet lifters to fit as well as checking for leaks, condition of gaskets, oil cooler, blocked pipes etc. ALso got a quote for sandblasting the steels I picked up the other week.

[Lowrider Dave]

Got out there today and it was damn cold. First proper look since I bought it in January, cleaned out leaves, twigs and general cack from the drain areas and hovered up loose rubbish and cobwebs. Removed engine cover and promptly lost a bolt in the depths of the engine - 5 minutes with a torch showed nothing, so that'll no doubt either fall onto the road somewhere or haunt me in the shape of expensive damage...

Took plenty of pics, it look like both rocker cover gaskets need doing as it's a bit oily (see pics). The expansion tank was full of brown water, so took off the hose from the bottom of the radiator and poured 4 gallons of water through until it was much clearer!

Now questions:
1. How many litres in the cooling system? I added about 2.3L of coolant and nearly 2 of water.
2. Is there a coolant drain plug somewhere?
3. Do Cavs have a filter under the plastic drain cover at the back of the engine bay/below windscreen?
4. The expansion tank is still brown, can anyone recommend a cleaner I can flush through the system to help clear it? Any recommended coolants too?
5. How can I check the oil cooler is okay without having to take lots of parts off the engine?


Vectra steel wheels


In the garage


Flaky alloy


Engine bay


Tree cack


New brake pipe


Dirty engine





Rusty brown water...



Cav is booked in to have the belt and tensioners done on Wednesday.

[humbucker]

1. How many litres in the cooling system? I added about 2.3L of coolant and nearly 2 of water.

about 9 litres in full. you wont be able to drain the system completely by just removing the radiator hose as half the coolant will remain in the engine. need to remove the hoses from the block too. also worth blasting the heater matrix from the bulkhead while you're doing it so you can get rid of any cak thats settled in there (lowest part of the coolant system)

2. Is there a coolant drain plug somewhere?

no, cost cutting exercise at the plant. real pain in the butt.

3. Do Cavs have a filter under the plastic drain cover at the back of the engine bay/below windscreen?

there is the 'elephant trunk hose' which the scuttle feeds in to, this can get blocked and if left will flood your passengers footwell! it can be seen in the centre of the engine bay against the bulkhead. the escape route for the rain and crap is quite thin so if you are concerned about it blocking simply cut a mm off of the the bottom of the hose to enlarge the exit

4. The expansion tank is still brown, can anyone recommend a cleaner I can flush through the system to help clear it? Any recommended coolants too?

you will HAVE to flush the engine fully (as mention above). the best cleaner you can use is forte biodegreaser. this should be used over the period of a few days, filling the system, running the car so it gets circulated, drain, fill with water, run the car, drain, fill with biodegreaser again, run the car for a day or so, drain, fill with water etc etc until the water is clear. however, this is a total waste of time if your oil cooler is knackered. so check the oil cooler first by removing the inlet manifold, fuel rail and lower inlet divider and having a look as outlined in the help thread you posted. looking at the coolant you've drained i'd say your oil cooler has almost certainly failed. change this first, THEN do the full flush. use GM coolant, with a strict 50/50 mix when you're done flushing, part number 93165162

5. How can I check the oil cooler is okay without having to take lots of parts off the engine?

you cant. as mentioned above, you need to look at it to determine if its knackered but cos it sits in the V you will have to remove the items that block vision first, so engine cover, inlet manifold, fuel rail, lower inlet divider and then you're there. you dont need to remove the oil cooler itself to check if its knackered, but again refer to the how2 guide for guide pics etc viewtopic.php?f=42&t=2778

[planetc]

4. The expansion tank is still brown, can anyone recommend a cleaner I can flush through the system to help clear it? Any recommended coolants too?
you will HAVE to flush the engine fully (as mention above). the best cleaner you can use is forte biodegreaser.

Persil, a cupfull in the system for a day or two followed by a flush is pretty good

[Lowrider Dave]

Humbucker, the water from the rad was rust coloured and I couldn't see any oily sheen or particules so I thought the oil cooler would be okay, but if you reckon it's not then I'll have to bite the bullet and get a new one. It seems the more I look the more questions I have about the health/condition of the car.

I ran it to temperature today and the fan kicked in at about 97º so at least the thermostat works! But I had a look in the expansion tank and now I have a more rusty water with a blue coolant tinge!

If I'm going to flush the system properly I'll also have to buy a hose reel extension as I'm along way from the garden tap!

[humbucker]

Humbucker, the water from the rad was rust coloured and I couldn't see any oily sheen or particules so I thought the oil cooler would be okay, but if you reckon it's not then I'll have to bite the bullet and get a new one. It seems the more I look the more questions I have about the health/condition of the car.

tbh the v6 is pretty bulletproof, just the oil cooler and breather system are prone to failure (and the dispack!). all things considered you probably have a good lump there just in need of some timely tlc. but i wouldnt go buying an oil cooler and the associated parts until you've visually inspected the one you've got.

I ran it to temperature today and the fan kicked in at about 97º so at least the thermostat works! But I had a look in the expansion tank and now I have a more rusty water with a blue coolant tinge!

good point this; if you're down there draining the system and replacing the oil cooler you might want to replace the thermostat with a new one at the same time. it's sat next to the oil cooler in the V so 'while you're down there'...!

If I'm going to flush the system properly I'll also have to buy a hose reel extension as I'm along way from the garden tap!

in this case, a worthy investment! hahaha!