Bedford Astravan MK2

[3cav3]

Hi, where would I purchase this spray from please?

[Mazza]

eBay, Halfords / motor shops ...

Not sure which one I used many moons ago but was brilliant.

Alternatively google it

[3cav3]

This is the point where i'm guessing a lot would give up, but I've allways been pig headed!

[3cav3]

[3cav3]

[3cav3]

[Robsey]

Nothing wrong with pig headed when it comes to stuff like this.

As for getting the underseal off.
I would have suggested one of the knotted wire wheels for an angle grinder.
But take it gently, as they are very aggressive.
It should make very light work of the underseal.

[Mazza]

Coming one nicely - shall I post you a box tea bags for the p... moments?

[3cav3]

I think something stronger than tea maybe in order, lol.
One question I've got concerns the sill strengtheners, does this attach to the inner or outer sill? When the sill covers were fitted the previous owner just left them free floating.
Also whilst they are still available I've ordered a pair of wings up. I've already spent more on repair panels than the whole van cost me.

[Mazza]

Perhap body expert may know

But I suggest replace what ever you can while it all open. Peace of mind later on.

[3cav3]

Had a bit of luck today managed to get a rear seat out of a Hatch Back 2005 in half leather for £25, just meant a 150 mile road trip.
Also had the pleasure of removing the drivers door to alow proper access to the sill. The pins did not want to come out! Bloody big hammer in the end got them out in the end.
Now the doors off would it be advisable to brace the opening before welding or will it be ok?

[Robsey]

I would recommend putting braces in before you cut much else off the car, otherwise it will just splay widthwise and / or start to sag / droop or twist.

All depends on how you have the car supported / mounted.

[3cav3]

I would recommend putting braces in before you cut much else off the car, otherwise it will just splay widthwise and / or start to sag / droop or twist.

All depends on how you have the car supported / mounted.

Thanks for confirming what I thought. Ive just ordered some box section to make up some adjustable braces.
At present the car is up on some drive up ramps to enable me to more easily get to the spot welds holding the sill on. Before welding i was going to level the van on the ground. Then get the sill back on to return some strength to the drivers side before I started on the arches inside the cabin.

[3cav3]

Managed to get a few hours on this, this morning. Just got to finish tweeking the cuts to get the sill to move slightly to towards the rear. The extra cut line was neccasary however as the rot caused by the previous owners bodge had extended higher than the repair panel, I guess the best answer would be a new rear quarter, but doubt I will be able to find one of those.
I was wondering how I would recreate the sill strengthener, so thought I had nothing to lose by blasting it with a little blaster pot I purchased cheaply years ago from Lidil. I was gobsmacked at how solid it came up and has now been treated as a precaution with Kurust and then weld through Primmer. Unfortunatley the battery went flat on my camera before I could get a shot. I will now just have to do a few localised repairs to the inner sills before I can finally start welding some new panels back in and return a bit of strength to the old girl.

[3cav3]

[3cav3]

Also won these front seats out of a Calibra last night on ebay for £82. Just got to pick them up now.

[iangsi]

Nice work, you've got a ways to go before you'll get those seats in though. So when can I drop off my mk2 SRI at yours for the same treatment ? Where did you get your panels from I have the cill & outer arch but was told they couldn't get the inner one ?

[3cav3]

Nice work, you've got a ways to go before you'll get those seats in though. So when can I drop off my mk2 SRI at yours for the same treatment ? Where did you get your panels from I have the cill & outer arch but was told they couldn't get the inner one ?

One is more than enough thanks. Started working at -0.5 c today, was to cold really as its all being done outside. I got the inner arches off eBay, but haven't been able to find any inner sills, just going to have to patch what I've got.

[Robsey]

Starting to take shape, amazing how a few shiny panels can make things look a whole lot better.

Well done on having the balls to work outdoors at -5°C.
Sadly I do not have enough motivation or back bone to work in such cold conditions.

[3cav3]

If it had of been -5c I would of stayed in bed, lol. Just below freezing wasn't to bad so long as you kept moving. The dark nights now the clocks have altered and the dropping temperatures are likely to slow down progress for a couple of months as I just don't have any room for it in the workshop. But spring will soon come back around.
Collected my calibra seats yesterday, very comfy they are too. Spotted some full leather rears on eBay so have ordered these as well, and mate is going to have the half leathers off me. Just trying hard now to find a floor covering and better front bumper.

[iangsi]

Are you going for a GTE bumper or an SRI type ?

[3cav3]

Are you going for a GTE bumper or an SRI type ?

Either, to be honest. I quite like the look of the GTE, have you got either for sale?

[3cav3]

Been considering the idea of a roll over spit, does anyone know of one that can have the engine left in situ or does it have to come out?

[Robsey]

I suppose the engine can be left in, but you would need to drain all fluids from the engine, cooling system, brake system and fuel system.

Common sense really, because the engine, tank etc will drain out if tipped beyond about 20° to 30°.
Definitely if the car is tipped 90° onto it's side.

As a side thought, have you got all your decals and badges for the astra max.?
As per another thread on here, Opelise on ebay has quite a good selection.

[3cav3]

I suppose the engine can be left in, but you would need to drain all fluids from the engine, cooling system, brake system and fuel system.

Common sense really, because the engine, tank etc will drain out if tipped beyond about 20° to 30°.
Definitely if the car is tipped 90° onto it's side.

As a side thought, have you got all your decals and badges for the astra max.?
As per another thread on here, Opelise on ebay has quite a good selection.

I've been studying the Haynes manual even though it's for a petrol to remove the engine doesn't look to difficult ( famous last words) so as the rear axle could really do with dropping aswell once I get paid I was going to order up a spit and really go to town on the chassis. So much just for putting in a couple of patches lol. Maybe I'm crazy going to all this work on an old van but part of the reason that I bought it in the first place was to improve my welding skills.
With the decals etc I've restored the front Bedford badge and my friend is printing me the decals next time he has some spare space on his vynal roll.