Vauxhall Senator

[Robsey]

Excellent work.
Not the easiest of repairs, but it is getting there.

Enjoy your hols, and get refreshed ready to knuckle down again when you get back.

[cavalier1990]

Excellent work.
Not the easiest of repairs, but it is getting there.

Enjoy your hols, and get refreshed ready to knuckle down again when you get back.

Cheers Robsey dying to get it rolling again, such a splendid car to drive.

[Robsey]

Looking forward to seeing it all come together.

Almost torture having to wait before we can see the wee beastie all done and shiny.


But I know it will be worth the wait.

[cavalier1990]

So as I've got a spare week to do some work I decided to get stuck in to the senator and cut out all the nasty tinworm. I'd already done quite a bit on the N/S, including cut off the rear of the sill, inner sills and the subframe mount/jacking point. This bit was particularly bad.

I've now made up templates for the N/S seatbelt floor area under the back seat, which has to be cut out as it is above the big jacking point frame. You'll see that in the pics, where you can see a sort of square hole then the ground!

Now it was onto the O/S and keeping my fingers crossed that at least the subframe mount area was salvageable, from a look over it didn't look quite as bad as the other side. So luckily that was saveable, just. But the sill at the back was a goner, I knew this anyway and had sourced the appropriate panel for outer sill and zinc metal for the inner sills.

As I was drilling out the spot welds for the back section of the sill on the O/S I had to remove the door. Easier said than doen, getting those pins out. Needless to see I think I need new pins. I thought well it's good practice for removing the front door pins as the drivers is slightly sagging. Common fault on these, usual fix is oversize pins as the hinge bracket is known to wear out elongated so a bigger pin is needed. However think I may get away with new standard pin as the sagging is very very slight.

Anyways on to the repair work. Here is the pics of said work.

This is the O/S/R seat belt area as you can see the deck is clearly seen through the hole I cut out and you can see the edge of the chassis leg on the right of the hole. The bit on the left with the rectangular hole for the inner plastic sill cover is also cut off now as well, not fully, just the skin that was sitting over it was rusting nicely, this bit also goes over the seat belt mount.

I've said it before but amazing how much tidier the cuts are when you use spot weld drilling. Maybe a wee bit more clinical but once it's done it's a lot cleaner an area to work with.


Next is the OSR sill. This is what faced be when I removed the sill cover. It was knackered, the inner sill was a good bit gone too, but that's all cut off now and will put that as the next pic. THe good thing is the inner sill stops just past the back of the drivers door where the sill was rotten too, and where my new panel reaches too so all good.




Inner sill. On the B post just behind the seat belt reel there is a 2 plug wiring connector which is the loom for the door motor and various other stuff in the door. On this I noticed there is one of the plugs, a normal push spade type with the black square plastic round it, which was corroded somewhat. I don't know if this is the same thing on the cavy but migh be worth a check if having problems with any electrics in the rear doors. Guessing you'd need to get to it by taking seat belt reel out and pull it through from there to check the connector:






The new panel offered up:


Back to it tomorrow for some more fettling!

[Robsey]

Loving this.
Excellent tidy work too.

Usually photos make stuff look better than reality, but some of those bits you say are okay look a bit rusty.
I presume it is mainly easily treatable surface corrosion.

I just wish that I had the patience, foresight and skills that you show in abundance.

As for rear door loom connectors, yes it is highly likely that there will be lots of Cavaliers with corroded connectors or weak wiring in the rubber tubes that link the B pillars to the rear doors.
I know mine was when I swapped out the holed rear near side door about 4 years ago.

[cavalier1990]

Yes Robsey, I took some of the pics before I done more cutting out, for instance the chassis leg had a lump of rot on the top horizontal lip, plus the jacking plate on the sill had quite a lot of surface crust, but underneath looks ok, it's quite a thick chunk of metal so any "chunks" I chip off still leaves a decent thickness. Granted it won't be as strong as a new jacking plate, which I have here, but wont be fitting if I can at all avoid doing another side. The other side was bad so I had to remove that one.

The jacking plate and seat belt mount were both splitting off the end of the sill and as you could see the end of the sill had seen better days, and the inner sill plate to the jacking plate was corroding at the end, hence where it was splitting. Once I get all new metal in there the various sections will be welded together.

[cavalier1990]

Quick shot of the templates I made up for underneath the back seat. Fit pretty well I must say. It sure is true, measure twice, cut once!

Underneath shot:


Above:

[ilovedmymantas]

Almost makes me want to dig out the welder after 20 years of abstinence!

I've a vague memory of the satisfaction factor when you've done everything yourself. I guess I've lost the focus I once had

nice write-up as usual, keep up the good work

[cavalier1990]

Almost makes me want to dig out the welder after 20 years of abstinence!

I've a vague memory of the satisfaction factor when you've done everything yourself. I guess I've lost the focus I once had

nice write-up as usual, keep up the good work

Thanks for comments on write up, I do get times when I lose motivation myself, but tend to get back to it sooner or later. I just think about that day when it rolls out the mot station and I can go and drive it about. In the senator's case, when I can go tank some audi's

[bobthevoice]

Great stuff as usual Andrew you are indeed a dedicated MoFo that's for sure. some of the stuff you take on would terrify the most of us i reckon.i have seen and admired your work on a few occasions now and you know your stuff fella.all the best to you. p.s. those hub caps still have your name on them for when i get he alloys refurbed. if you know a good company who can do a good job for me let me know please. P.S. i finally picked up a good 38cm sri steering wheel for the car.just waiting on it's arrival. i think i need a puller to remove the original wheel though. cheers Bob.

[3cav3]

It's nice to see someone else tackling something as rotten as my Astra. Proves I'm not totally insane. I'm a total novice when it comes to welding new metal in so will be following your repairs with great interest to see how it's done.

[cavalier1990]

It's nice to see someone else tackling something as rotten as my Astra. Proves I'm not totally insane. I'm a total novice when it comes to welding new metal in so will be following your repairs with great interest to see how it's done.

Comes with experience really. As soon as you cut out the old metal, well drill out the spot welds where you can, as this makes it much much cleaner, then you'll see the panels you need to make. Good to use cardboard and make up templates, old cornflakes box or similar suffices, saves so much grief later on when you come to make up the panel. Also use zinc coated steel.

Any pics of what you are doing?

[cavalier1990]

Great stuff as usual Andrew you are indeed a dedicated MoFo that's for sure. some of the stuff you take on would terrify the most of us i reckon.i have seen and admired your work on a few occasions now and you know your stuff fella.all the best to you. p.s. those hub caps still have your name on them for when i get he alloys refurbed. if you know a good company who can do a good job for me let me know please. P.S. i finally picked up a good 38cm sri steering wheel for the car.just waiting on it's arrival. i think i need a puller to remove the original wheel though. cheers Bob.

Hi Bob, I appreciate the comments, yes I do take it all on I must admit! I do get times when I think I have taken on too much but manage to get through it somehow! I guess it's my passion, I really get satisfaction from doing it all. Only thing that really bugs me is not having the time to get it all done when I would like. Most of these cars have been hanging about the last few years doing next to nothing. Making plans to get on top if it all this year though, which I said last year

Funny you mention those trims Bob I was thinking about them the other night. No worries just when you get round to it. As to a recommended wheel refurbishment service I'm not too sure. I did use a place in Hillington, just near the station, about ten years ago. I think they are still there, seemed a good enough job. I think a lot of these companies send it to somewhere to get done and then tack on their extra to the price.

LIkely best checking a review site or on car forums to be honest. Regarding your steering wheel, you'll only need to loosen the big nut so it is level with the end of the steering shaft thread, then get something with a relatively flat end like the end, even a hammer face, smack it in a bit to break the seal, you have to remove the nut rest of the way and it should pop off.

Usually a cross brace wheel nut remover fits the steering bolt, cant remember if it's 19mm or 17mm. So you have to sit in the car and put the brace onto the bolt, Watch your face and make sure steering lock is on, and you may find there is a locking tab on the bakc of the nut. You can push these back with a flat blade screwdriver and a small tap of a hammer. Struggling, let me know.

[bobthevoice]

No worries with those comments you deserve them. when the new wheel arrives i will do what you suggest to remove the original and store it safe.so basically just do what you have written to remove the wheel? i was wondering if i needed to loosen the clamp bolt at the bottom of the column.?
Cheers
Bob

[cavalier1990]

No worries with those comments you deserve them. when the new wheel arrives i will do what you suggest to remove the original and store it safe.so basically just do what you have written to remove the wheel? i was wondering if i needed to loosen the clamp bolt at the bottom of the column.?
Cheers
Bob

All you need to access the bolt that holds on the wheel is pull off the cover on the front and you'll see the bolt that holds wheel on. You wont need to remove the steering column clamp, I'm not sure if that is what you mean? That is only if you were taking the whole column off.

[bobthevoice]

OK Andrew i was meaning the clamp bolt(pinch bolt) at the bottom. so i don't need to loosen it then thanks.

Bob

[cavalier1990]

OK Andrew i was meaning the clamp bolt(pinch bolt) at the bottom. so i don't need to loosen it then thanks.

Bob

Right I know what you mean now. No you'll not need to take the pinch bolt off, that again would only be if you are removing the steering column completely, or the steering rack.

Cheers

Andrew

[bobthevoice]

Sri wheel fitted this A/noon looking great but more importantly so much more comfortable in the hands and because of it's rim thickness it is easier to steer.

Cheers fella.

[cavalier1990]

Been a wee while since posting an update so here goes. Things have been hectic the last few months so haven't had the time to do much car work, however I scheduled in a long break to get some stuff done on the Senator so progress was kept up, here's me thinking I would get a bit more done but not much overall as things always get in the way. However I managed to get not only the whole R/N/S back wing replaced. I also replaced the spare wheel well and the back panel. These were all new parts I had stored. The thing that took the most time was actually prepping the body/measuring for the parts to go back in, especially an inner rear wheearch repair panel, an absolute nightmare to get in line with the new panel. After shaping it I'd to shave a bit more off it, which was tight shall we say, very neat but I got it to button up just nice.

Once one bit was lined up it was only a couple more hours and the spare wheel panel and back panel slotted in. So right now the panels are spot welded in, and the welded areas primered and sealed to stop any water ingress/rusting. I've got it covered with a sheet to stop rain getting at it. There is still some bits left at the back to repair, like the boot floor edge along where it joins to the back panel, a few bit inside the wheelarch at the back in the boot. and the front of the wheelarch below the door still needs built up. For some strange reason the senator arch was in 2 parts, the rearmost part came from the back to the front, to about half way up the door, and this is what constitutes the whole rear repair panel. The front section is just a panel, that I will need to fabricate by the looks of it.

All in all a really good bit of work was done. I also buffed down the underside and applied rust treatment and primer. All the repairs still to be properly sealed up. Once that is done another few coats of primer and top coat will be applied. No pics but will get some at my next tinkering session.

Not sure if I actually mentioned but I also got the rear subframe mount/jacking point welded in place, that was done a couple of weeks ago so that's one more thing done. That was a double nightmare job! The reason I replaced it was mainly because one of the lug mounts had snapped off with rust. The rest of it was just surface crust. Other side is just surface crust so can avoid removing that one. TF!

[Robsey]

Looking forward to seeing this complete.

A huge amount of work done now, including some of the tougher, time consuming bits.

Well done for sticking with it.
I just know it will be more than worth it when it is complete.

[cavalier1990]

I need to get the back axle and new tank in to move it so as I can move it out to get passenger side doors off to fix sill, passenger side close to garage wall so can only open doors a little. First though I'll fix driver's side rear seat belt mount and sill then put tank and axle back in to then move it. Got the underside painted with 2 pack primer as well but still lots of wee bits at boot area to plate up, mainly along behind new panel where it joined to boot floor.

[Robsey]

Thankfully we have had some nice weather recently,
So it makes it easier to knuckle down and press on.

Sounds like little bite size jobs,
Not too overwhelming for a man of your calliber.

[cavalier1990]

Weather looking more favourable hopefully end of July into August. I'm away a week break end of July and going to try and get some more done on senator after that. For this week I'm going to try and do N/S sill on cavalier, so pics of that to follow soon. Here's some pics of the senator work. Strangely enough I never took snaps of the new panels once they were on, don't know why I do that lol but will get some soon.

[Robsey]

I am sure that we have never seen this car in it's entirity.
Just one 3/4 side shot on page one.

It is like one of those suspence games where you flash a little bit and then a different bit, but not enough to see the full picture.

Andrew, you are a tease.
The work is looking good as usual though.

You are a brave man working near the rear screen whilst it is still fitted.
I would probably have cracked it by now, if it was me.
But then, I am just so lucky - lol.

I promise, that I am not trying to tempt fate.

[cavalier1990]

I am sure that we have never seen this car in it's entirity.
Just one 3/4 side shot on page one.

It is like one of those suspence games where you flash a little bit and then a different bit, but not enough to see the full picture.

Andrew, you are a tease.
The work is looking good as usual though.

You are a brave man working near the rear screen whilst it is still fitted.
I would probably have cracked it by now, if it was me.
But then, I am just so lucky - lol.

I promise, that I am not trying to tempt fate.

Robsey

There was no problems working near rear screen, all slotted in nicely. I done the other side chassis leg and rear seat belt area last wkend.

As is usual with senator there is a double skin at the point where it commonly rusts, the double skin facilitates that greatly?

Cut the outer section off then inner, and repair in reverse. Then put the big plate on below rear seat. As is usual with me pics to follow!

Next jobs is sills. I think I might be able to get passenger side doors off, without having to move car out. If I can get wing off, I can get into hinges that way. Back door accessible when you open front door so only front door causing problem.

I'll find a way!