Bedford Astravan MK2

[ilovedmymantas]

As usual, government guidelines are vague and open to interpretation.
https://assets.publishing.service.gov.u ... idance.pdf
On one hand steering and suspension changes are substantial, yet on the next page some are acceptable.
I'd argue that power steering was available ten years later and would also improve safety. I know it's the dearer option but if you're fitting bigger, heavier wheels and tyres your rheumatism may thank you for it
I notice there's no mention of gearboxes, so presumably upgrading to a hydraulic clutch would also be ok -wish the cav had one.

Comfort or originality? Difficult one...

[3cav3]

A hydraulic clutch is something that I definitely don't want. The amount of trouble it caused me on my first Astra van was unbelievable. The fairly new slave cylinder failed and would keep letting air into the system. Unfortunately it was inside the Bell housing and as it had already been off about 6 times for flywheel replacements( long story but basically the vauxhall dealer fitted the clutch plate back to front) I didn't feel inclined to yet again remove the gearbox! The last time it failed I was driving through the centre of Birmingham in rush hour, having to keep going with no clutch was not fun.
The hydraulic clutch on my wifes Fiat Panda is also letting in air, for the time being rapid pedal pumping gets it back.
No definitely give me a cable operated clutch any day! The worst that happens is a bit of adjustment or cable replacement every 20 years or so is needed.

[Robsey]

I notice there's no mention of gearboxes, so presumably upgrading to a hydraulic clutch would also be ok -wish the cav had one.

Comfort or originality? Difficult one...

A heavy clutch could be a snagged cable.
My clutch was really stiff / heavy immediately after restoration.
6 months later the cable failed. (Plastic collar separated where it passes through the bulk head / fire wall.)
Put a new cable on, and it was like driving a new car - very light gear changes.

I presume it is the added "worry" about adding anything hydraulic. Usually heavier and more parts that could fail.

Assuming that all parts "appear" to look and operate okay, then there should be little to worry about.

Glass half full, or half empty ?

[chrisp]

I don't know why manufacturers have started putting clutch slave cylinders inside the bell housing. I still have an old Austin A40 with a hydraulic clutch but the slave cyclinder is mounted on the outside of the bell housing and operates the clutch release bearing via a lever. So it's very easy to bleed the slave cylinder or replace it. I cannot see any advantage of putting the slave cylinder inside the bell housing, only a complete increase in hassle!

[iangsi]

If you're going to fit the power steering rack you might want to reinforce the rack mounts now as MK2 's with power steering are prone to splitting the bulkhead around the mount area.

[chrisp]

Yes, splits to the bulkhead steering rack mounts are also a problem for the Cavalier - especially with heavier engines like my V6. I managed to get and fit a kit with a reinforcing bar that braces the rack against the side panel; of the engine bay - using the mounting bolts for the ABS unit. While the rack is out and the engine bay is clear is certainly a very good opportunity to reinforce the steering rack mounts - when everything is assembled they're very hard to get to.

[Robsey]

I have seen Saab units that brace the rack mounts to the strut top mounts.
The usual issue is getting the correct size bushes to suit the diameter of the rack body.

Last I knew the early "Saab 900" braces were like hen's teeth.

Here's a thread on a GTE regarding the subject.

http://www.astra-mk2.com/forum/forum/ge ... ion/page38

[3cav3]

Right, time for a small update. I can totally see where everyone is coming from with regards the PAS. However for the time being I'm going to leave it manual. If at a later date I need to retrofit it, with the forklifts at my work, worse case is ill have drop the engine out again for better access.
My reasoning is as follows;
I've already decided not to go down the alloy wheel route, so with the tiny narrow original wheels it should help.
I want to try and overall keep the original driving experience of the van. Vehicles of this type of basicness was what I learnt to drive in.
I've checked the power rack and there appears to be a slight weep, I will keep my eyes open for a new old stock at a sensible price.
The bracing sounds complicated and un original. I simply can't find any photos on what I need to actually do.
However the biggest clincher for me is that this afternoon I heard of an old g reg Cavalier not far from me. After making contact with the owner( a friend of a friend) I ascertained that it was a manual steering car and that I could have a drive of it on his private farm drive- its far to rotten to ever return to the road, but like a lot not for sale. Trying to turn the wheel when stationary was a little hard, however once slightly rolling it was no real issue, and once up to speed was very easy.
In the meantime I will be keeping my eyes open for a new rack and a bracing kit off a sabb as mentioned above. Wasn't the 93 very similar to the Cav?

[Envoy CDX]

Sounds like good plans all round. Happy days
early 93 was yep. I think there was another saab model I just can't remember what it was.

[3cav3]

Today i spent several hours extracting the gearbox and engine from my garage. Then took them up the unit. The engine came very close to falling off the tail lift whilst loading. Ended up having to drag it off the edge and along the bed by hand. Althougth light for a diesel lump, its still bloody heavy!

Was not happy with the way in which the rain came down before i'd finished. The forecast said it would be dry all morning!
I have dug out my new Starter motor and alternator, which i will fit before fitting the engine as should the original fail then particuarly the starter motor would be a complete bar steward to change.

[Envoy CDX]

More progress than I have made today
It's coming together though, Plans to rebuild the old starter too?

[3cav3]

I probably will overhaul the old starter when I get time, I'll have to see if I can remember how to as it was 2002 in college when I last did anything like that. Until he died there used to be an old boy in Abergavenny near where I lived that rebuilt starters and alternators in his garage the same night for literally beer money, often charging around a tenner to completely overhaul one, so I got to admit I always used to drop them in rather than do it myself.

[Robsey]

It is mainly a matter of fitting new brushes, or brush pack dependent upon existing wear.
Other than that, a good clean of the commutator bars and ensure that the bearings spin freely.

If you really wish to ensure good oomph for starting, then you could fit a starter solenoud / relay.

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk ... r-solenoid

and fresh cables between the battery + and the starter terminals.

On a vehicle from the 80s, the biggest possible issue would be oxidised / dried copper cables. (Wires blackened and tarnished, or more pink than copper colour). In such condition, the cables will struggle to pass a good cranking current.

Haynes shows a 16mm cable for this
And a separate 6mm cable between the battery and alternator.

Not forgetting a nice fat braid between the bell-housing fixture bolt and the van body. I suggest a 25mm braid.

Same for the alternator to body shell,
and battery "-" to body shell.

There are various companies who produce such cables to order.

Such as vehicle wiring products

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk ... tery-leads

or
Brickwerks (a very highly regarded independent VW specialist).

https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/batter ... -positive/

https://brickwerks.co.uk/product/earth- ... injection/

[3cav3]

Thanks forthe links. Ill take a look.

[Robsey]

My pleasure -

For information, Brickwerks are the only company I know that Guarantee that their fuel pipe is 100% Ethanol friendly.
Many ebay shops and even Halfords sell fuel pipe that breaks down quickly with E10 despite being rated R9 or "upto 100%" ethanol compatible

[3cav3]

Am I correct in thinking Diesel doesn't contain ethanol?

[Robsey]

I don't think it does yet...
But I am sure that I heard (or maybe dreamt) that ethanol may be added in future to clean up the 'dirty diesel' exhaust fumes.

[3cav3]

I hope they don't as it seems to cause nothing but trouble. What I dont get if its so good for the planet then why have I heard of several cars being prematurely scrapped due to the issues people have had caused by ethanol. Surely one of the biggest polutants a car causes is when it is made in the first place, so if its scrapped before its time then another one has to be made to replace it. I know of a lot of I/C vehicles that are still around after 15-20 years yet I bet most electrics will be lucky to do half that as the batteries will get knackered after a few years, then simply cost to much to replace. Also how do we generate electricity? Largely By burning fossil fuel or nuclear, neither of which is good for the environment.

[Robsey]

After a quick read online -
Ethanol above about 8% causes all sorts of running issues.
A lot more vibration (knock) and erratic ignition timing.

Chances are for diesels that suppliers will simply increase the amount (%)of "bio--diesel" in the fuel.

This does appear less problematic, but may require more frequent filter changes

[chrisp]

I've been treating my Cav V6 to the "super" grades of petrol (and trying not to focus too much on the price!)
Esso say their "Supreme" E5 petrol does not contain any ethanol "in most areas of the country" but may contain up to 5% in some areas. A bit vague but at least no more than 5%
I'm not sure about Shell V-Power and BP Super petrols. These also are marked E5 at the pump but does anyone know if these do actually contain ethanol?

[cavalier1990]

I've been treating my Cav V6 to the "super" grades of petrol (and trying not to focus too much on the price!)
Esso say their "Supreme" E5 petrol does not contain any ethanol "in most areas of the country" but may contain up to 5% in some areas. A bit vague but at least no more than 5%
I'm not sure about Shell V-Power and BP Super petrols. These also are marked E5 at the pump but does anyone know if these do actually contain ethanol?

Think the operative word is "Up to" I remember watching a video about this a while back (Can't rememer where it is now) and it was stated fuels will say 5 or 10% on the pump, but it can vary widly from almost none to maybe 3 or 4% actual ethanol, and for the 10% one maybe 6 or 7%. I didn't notice any running issues with my cav on e10 but I did notice it guzzled the fuel compared to E5. long term no idea of any issues, I don't really want to find out so I just stick with the old E5.

[3cav3]

I have now started to clean up the engine in preperation for fitting. The first job is one that I have been putting off for ever as I was worried that when unbolting the thermostat housing the bolts would sheer. Luck must of been on my side as one was a bit tight but all 3 came out in one piece!

Allthough some differences, the part numbers are the same.

As this engine has been stood for so long I planned on replacing the thermostat aswell. About 2 years I had ordered a replacement off ebay, however when I came to fit it, the replacement was wrong, so i have ordered another.
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Some may say its a bit over the top cleaning up and painting the back of the engine as itll never be seen as its wedged agaisnt the bulkhead, but I would know. So after removing the manifolds, alternator and startermotor ( With the engine removed the startermotor was fiddly to remove, with the engine in it would of been the work of Satan to extract it! Why are manufacturers such sadists when it comes to service items?), I cleaned everything up and repainted the block and waterpipe, which in turns baffles me as to why its so close to the manifold with no heat shield. Surely this will cause problems with the coolant getting extra heat?

First coat of etch primer on the pipe.


After repainting the block and aluminum painting the hose. Will need another coat of black tomorrow.


I also painted the air filter box/manifold whilst i was at it.

[Robsey]

I am sure it is reassuring having a metal coolant distribution pipe.
The plastic pipes fitted to Cavaliers etc, can become age hardened and prone to cracking.

I would be the same about painting the engine.
"Because I know it's there" resonates with my conscience too.

At least you can do the prep and assembly indoors where it is a bit warmer.
My favourite kind of jobs.

Looking at that last photo... "bye eck, you've got some big nuts!!"

[3cav3]

Looking at that last photo... "bye eck, you've got some big nuts!!"

Theyre not that big, only 65mm across the flats. That hammer is only for a 20 tonne excavator.
Here it is fitted back into its case.

The biggest i normally rebuild is for the 35-40 tonne excavators, anything bigger tends to get too heavy for our tele truck. That one uses 80mm nuts that have to be pre loaded to 3500NM, then heated to 300c (to stretch the bolts so when cooled they go even tighter) then torqued up anothor 180 degrees around.

[3cav3]

Carrying on with the engine I replaced the two manifold gaskets, using a set I purchased off ebay a couple of years ago for about 2 quid.
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