Mk3 Cavalier Owners Club | Vauxhall Cavalier Dot Com

Oh, no I totally get it, and admire it to be honest. As I say, it was a selfish want

I too fully understand -

I am in the same mind-set with our van.
There are recommendations to fit an early Subaru EJ20 engine, or an early Golf GTi engine... otherwise an early VW 1.9TD engine.
(Huge bank balance permitting).

The reasoning for sticking with the Wasserboxer is that unique flat-four engine clatter.

Ideally a late 2 litre air cooled would give the fully authentic sound-track.

But the wasserboxer gives a more refined audio signature - with better economy and lots more bhp.

UPDATE -
To explain my reasoning, here is an exerpt from a recent pm.

"the wife really wants to hear that "water boxer" sound again that reminds her of family holidays in the van with her late dad weaving his way around country lanes to distant seaside towns.
A beautiful thought, that I would love to make reality.
Hopefully it doesn't kill me first".

Yes I know - I am a big softy...

This morning, I have carried on with rust prevention. This included another coat of underseal on the rear of the chassis, some seam sealing to the repairs on the front inner arches, then once set this was also undersealed. Originally I was undecided about wether or not to underseal this van. Perhaps if fitting it on the spit had of worked, then I might of stonechipped the underneath and sprayed it body colour instead. However thinking back to when I had to run around in Cars that were shall we say a little ripe, then I always found it amazing stuff at helping them last a bit longer before needing welding again. Now this Van is no longer ripe hopefully it should help preserve it a lot longer, plus it is easy to touch up.

Heres the front inner arches after recieving the treatment.





Hopefully they should dry a lot smoother, then have another coat, but anyway over two thirds of them will be covered by the wing and these arch protectors.



Another job i carried out was to fit the main of the exhaust system. (Just the rear box left now) I must say lying on your back on your own made it a horrible job particuarly when the supplier had sent with bolts that are too short!. I didnt get a shot as my camera battery died.

I wouldn't worry about smoothness with underseal or other semi-hidden parts.

I am sure that they are not smooth from the factory.

From experience - you can get away with a lot of blemishes, if the 'main' visible paint job is done well.

The oversize pistons have now also arrived, a plus 1mm piston (40thou in old money) a new gudgeon pin, over size piston rings,and 2 circlips in each box for £12.50 each.
Im going to have to stop looking on ebay for a while, i just cant afford these items, but at the price i cant leave them either.

I know what you mean about ebay, I've still got parts bought twenty years ago for a previous cav!

I'd say slap the underseal on, the more the better and ignore the tester's findings. I've had an mot mention twice about not being able to assess properly because of excessive underseal. Both times the garage that tested had fitted new parts and done the sealing!

Keep up the good work

I was going to do a lot more this morning on the Van. However last night a friend popped round with a couple of bottles of Jack Daniels. Lying on your back under a car with a hangover is not that great!
I still managed to finally get the back box fitted.



I can see in the photo that the rear valance will need a seam of weld on the bottom edge. I must of forgotten to do that.

The rear silencer certainly looks better than the old one that I cut off.



I also managed to get the new fuel tank fitted. This is one of those jobs that really needs two people, however i was on my own so had to improvise with trolley jacks and blocks of wood.

I have fitted a fuel tank on my own too.

Laying on my back, and using both knees and hands to raise the tank into place, before scrabbling around for the tank straps and fixtures.
Not too tricky back then.
Not so easy to do at my age - mind is willing... body is a lot more hesitant - lol

I am not sure that I could do anything with a hangover.
A big reason why I gave up drinking fifteen years ago.

I rarely drink, maybe just a tipple on a Saturday night if I fancy it.

My back is now in pieces after trying to use my legs and head to hold the tank up, then as you said trying to get the bolts in the brackets. I've spent the last 2 weeks lying underneath the van so next week think i'll have a session on the outside to give my back/knees and hips a rest.

Nicely fitted

Just a thought...
Did you paint the fuel tank first?

You really need to because it gets strapped close to the under-body causing moisture and muck to get trapped between them.

Robsey wrote: ↑Tue Apr 25, 2023 10:33 pm Just a thought...
Did you paint the fuel tank first?

You really need to because it gets strapped close to the under-body causing moisture and muck to get trapped between them.

Yes, it was etch primed, then epoxy primed, then 3-4 coats of gloss black. Also the chassis was given an extracoat in the tank area of Waxoyl underseal.
The original tank had particularly gone on the seams, and a couple of pin holes in places. Can see the advantage of later cars plastic tanks.
Once on the road I will also try and keep it full of Diesel when parked as it should give a nice oily coating to the inside, and also stop condensation forming internally if no space is left.

One of the reasons I didnt connect my filler neck up on Sunday is that the clips that the screws went into had disintergrated. Ive managed to turn these genuine ones up along with a set of genuine screws.

Another job I thought id try was with the roof linning. Its turned out a bit of a disaster! I thought I would try using Fabric spray paint.



Im very disapointed with the above cans, comes out like water, says 200ml but even with 4 cans the paint had run out before getting full coverage.




As can be seen it looks a bit of a mess, guess i'm going to have to try stripping back and recovering it. Does anyone have any tips?

If it isn't car upholstery glue, it may be possible to use a hair dryer to warm the glue and soften it so that the fabric can be carefully peeled from the headlining.

Professional fabric glue can tolerate the warmth of a hot summers day inside the car.
Which means that a hair dryer would not work.

From the photo, it doesn't look bad at all.
One problem with being very thin and watery, is that the glue can seep through the fabric.
This looks dreadful when wet, but improves if the glue dries clear.

Thanks, any thoughts to the type of material to use?

Fabric itself...

I used brushed nylon from Martrim,

https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming- ... ductId=468

But if you want original, then you will want perforated vinyl.
Either light grey

https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming- ... ductId=492

or cream in colour.
(Off white).

https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming- ... ductId=485

Thanks for the links, next pay day i'll look into ordering some.

This morning i started to strip the front suspension out.



I had a bit of fun popping the ball joints off and had to resort to cutting one through with the grinder. Not to worry though as I plan on replacing them any way.

Once I had removed the springs and top end parts, Oh dear! The top bearings are shot, but I already have a new pair to fit. Both Bump Stops are also well gone.



Means more money, which I dont have at the moment.

I know that ive commented before on how bad the O/S strut housing had gone, but its only now its dismantled that the true extent of the corrosion can be seen. Quite scary really! It could of gone at any point.





On a more positive note the top cups and rubbers should clean up well.



One item that ive never managed to turn up is a good quality set of standard springs for the diesel engine. So i gave them a quick rub down, then red oxided, followed by a few coats of red paint.

My pleasure,
The fabric - brushed nylon especially comes on a long cardboard tube to prevent creases, and wrapped in a thick opaque polythene cover.

I presume you will have it delivered to a work's address, just like I do, so not a huge issue.
But can be a bit big and awkward for those delivering to a home address.

If I had the money, I would consider the manufacturer specific 'original pattern' seat cover fabrics.

Far too much choice to choose from.
They should also be able to advise and supply the correct upholstery glues etc.

It is amazing how well things like springs can come up after a rub-down and paint.

I thought you would have done OEM black for the springs. Afterall - you have been very keen to maintain the original look elsewhere around the van.

I am sure it will still look fantastic in whatever colour you do stuff.

While the paint was drying, I turned my attention to the drive shafts. The O/s was in good order and popped back into the gearbox with no fuss. The nearside one however had a split gaitor. As the cv joint simply refused to seperate I thought I'd use one of the stretch type ones and lubed up the cone. After nearly 2 hours of struggling, and splitting two new gaitors i was reminded why nearly 20 years ago I said I would never use them again. No matter what I try, I just cant get them to stretch all the way. Out of desperation I have had to resort to ordering up an air stretcher tool and gaitor from a different manufacturer to see if I can get them on. Again yet more money.

Robsey wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 4:24 pm It is amazing how well things like springs can come up after a rub-down and paint.

I thought you would have done OEM black for the springs. Afterall - you have been very keen to maintain the original look elsewhere around the van.

I am sure it will still look fantastic in whatever colour you do stuff.

I was considering doing them in original black, however after undersealing in the front arches I thought thered be just to much black and the red would help break it up. Probably a bit daft I know, but is still better than rust.

Robsey wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 4:18 pm My pleasure,
The fabric - brushed nylon especially comes on a long cardboard tube to prevent creases, and wrapped in a thick opaque polythene cover.

I presume you will have it delivered to a work's address, just like I do, so not a huge issue.
But can be a bit big and awkward for those delivering to a home address.

If I had the money, I would consider the manufacturer specific 'original pattern' seat cover fabrics.

Far too much choice to choose from.
They should also be able to advise and supply the correct upholstery glues etc.

Its good to know that it'll be properly packed, far to often I have items arrive damaged because the sender cant be bothered to pack them properly. Seems to particularly happen on ebay!

Ah yes, the old conundrum.

Black for uniformity and tidiness, with a risk of being a sea of black blandness.
Or
A non-standard colour for contrast and a more interesting look, but straying from originality.

Oh the challenges that these things pose.