Lazy starter

[Ash777]

My vauxhall cavalier 1.7 TD fires up fine in spring summer but autumn winter takes some doing. I have replaced battery glow plugs even though my mechanic said both were fine. Even the starter motor is fine. No electrical issue. Cranks up fine just doesn't fire up. I have treated the engine oil and fuel tank with additives to clear any blockages if that could possible be the cause. My mechanic reckons its the tappets in the engine. However, when I turn the key and the lights come on I wait for the glow plug light to go off then the ABS followed by the seat belt light I believe before I start the engine. I colleague of mine said start it straight after glow plug light goes off. Also I noticed first time the glow plug light comes on, I turn the ignition off, turn the key again but the glow plug light doesn't come on. I have to wait a minutes, then the light comes is this normal. Thanks

[Cavalier342]

Just throwing out an idea here, they have a special glow plug relay don't they? Worth eliminating that as a suspect I guess.

[3cav3]

The only things to consider maybe is have the injectors overhauled. I have come across slightly worn nozzles causing fuel to leak overnight into the cylinders and thus some air gets in.
Also check the fuel pump timing, sometimes this can end up a tooth or two out, yet still run ok.

[Robsey]

The diesel engines require the compressions to be high enough to ignite the fuel effectively.

A slack tappet, (not priming effectively)
poor valve seating / sealing,
Leaking glow plug seal,
Leaking injector seal,
Or generally worn rings etc
- would significantly affect the compressions.

So your mechanic does make good sense.
The extreme cold could make enough difference to oil viscocity (tappets).

As for glow plugs...
I tend to crank immediately after the glow light goes off.
But I run a much later CDTi Vauxhall,
Which can be turned off and re-energised immediately. But it also continues to heat at a lower rate for 4 minutes (after glow).

So the obvious statement is to check your compressions.

Finally - electrical conduction of the heavy cables between the battery, starter and alternator.
And don't forget the cables to the glow plugs.

Old cables become tarnished, 'dry' and brittle which makes them less efficient at conducting electricity.

Ensure all cables and connectors are clean, dry and securely fitted.

Should I mention the big earth cables / braids between the battery and the inner wing, and also to the gearbox bell housing or end-plate.

[Envoy CDX]

If it's the izuzu engine, they tend to need reshimmed as they get on in life due to wear. Not sure about the GM Diesel though.

[Robsey]

This will be the Isuzu unit, as it is a TD.

[Envoy CDX]

This will be the Isuzu unit, as it is a TD.

couldnt remember if the GM lump was a TD or NA lump I remember there being a 1.6 frankensteim lump but also recall GM having a second go around the M reg marker.

[paul_34]

I'd go with shims too. Sometimes I don't wait for the glow lamp to extinguish and it will start no problem.

Getting the correct shims these days is a nightmare but my local engineers grind mine for £4 a shim.

If you're replacing them yourself make sure the ground surface sits in the bucket.

Don't touch the injectors unless absolutely necessary.

The injector nozzles can only be replaced as opposed cleaning/reconditioning.

Injectors are hard to come by as well. I managed to find some reconditioned online a few years ago but they were £80 each. Also chances are you will break the fuel return pipe on removal which cost me £75 from Autovaux. The leakoff washers were something stupid like £15 each from the local Vauxhall dealer so I bought a complete Victor Reinz headset. The inlet manifold gasket is also expensive if bought separate.

Good reliable engines but parts can be bloody expensive!

[Envoy CDX]

Good reliable engines but parts can be bloody expensive!

Price you pay for Japanese bits (and boy do I know it).