No 1st & 2nd Gear - Now fixed

[Robsey]

I looked on the forum to see if my problem had been mentioned before, however I didn't find a match, so here goes.

On a recent post, I moaned that I thought that my gearbox had gone pop!!

I was driving about 8 miles from home, when suddenly I lost the use of some of my gears.

I was able to select reverse, 3rd, 4th and 5th, but not 1st and 2nd.
A real pain setting off from lights in 3rd!

I was convinced that the selector arm or meshing mechanism had failed, and thus not allowing me to get the first two gears.

The gear lever just moved about in any position from side to side, but this didn't stop me getting Reverse and 5th.
Had I not been able to get reverse or 5th, then I would have thought that the lateral shift ball-joint had come apart on the gearbox linkage. (Part 18)

Anyway I had a look today, and I found that the linkage in the drawings below, had become damaged / worn-out.

There is a spring steel 2 piece hollow pin that joins the two parts together.
Part number 21.
One end has a flange, and the other end is tapered to take a captive circlip.
The tapered narrow end upon which the retaining clip was meant to sit, had broken off.
This was allowing the joint to move quite at the point where the taper sat.

Now the original split pin is no longer available, and I didn't have the time to wait for my dealer to order an equivalent one in!! This is my regular work horse!!

Now the fix!!

I cut off the remnants of the taper - as shown by the red line. Using sharp tin-snips.

link pin cropped.jpg (19.37 KiB) Viewed 1489 times

I reshaped the two halves with a pair of pliers as the snips will distort / flatten the metal a little.
I then pushed the hollow split pin pieces back into the joint hole.
It is then possible to push an M6 bolt through the joint, inside the split pin (in the direction of the blue arrow..

Now I know we all know what nuts bolts and washers look like, but this is just to show the range available.
I had three sizes of washer available...
a standard M6 washer is approx 13mm ( 1/2") across.
the middle size is approx 16mm (5/8") across and
the large washer shown is 25mm (1") across...these are often called Sella Washers or Penny washers.

m6fixtures.jpg (30.89 KiB) Viewed 1488 times

I used a middle sized M6 washer under the head of the screw (to retain the split pin) and also fitted another washer on the other end along with a Nyloc Nut.

The result, is that my linkage is firm again (no excessive movement) and my gears all select cleanly.


By the way, I had noticed a distinct difficulty getting into second over the last six months...This is no longer the case after this fix.
Not rocket science, but hope it helps someone.

[Robsey]

The finished job!!

repaired link.jpg (88.86 KiB) Viewed 1487 times

[Envoy CDX]

nice one, how long is the m6 bolt though?

[Robsey]

Sounds long, but I used a 50mm long bolt (just three threads showing through nylon ring of nyloc nut).

[Envoy CDX]

Sounds long, but I used a 50mm long bolt (just three threads showing through nylon ring of nyloc nut).

only 5cm lol.

[Gaz]

Thats a well known fix for slackness in the bush, but i use a m8 bolt and drill the smaller hole larger.

[Bull]

Could this explain my difficulty getting just 1st gear? I know the clutch needs sorting as well bt all the other gears are ok atm.

J

[Robsey]

Could this explain my difficulty getting just 1st gear? I know the clutch needs sorting as well bt all the other gears are ok atm.

J

Could be one or two things dependent upon gearbox type.
The listed ones are:-

1 - Wrong oil grade / very old thinned out / contaminated oil
2 - worn synchro hubs or worn gear cogs
3 - badly adjusted clutch cable
4 - worn damaged clutch mechanism / linings

Thats a well known fix for slackness in the bush, but i use a m8 bolt and drill the smaller hole larger.

Thats true, but using the spring steel sleeve was just a lot easier than trying to get in there to dismantle the linkage and drilling it out.

[Bull]

Oil is fresh as i can do well abt 6wks old hopefully not contaminated and the recommended type by local VX dealer, CLutch needs changing when get a chance on the Isuzu its apparently a pig to do and i need it everyday atm so.

HOw do i check for:
1) worn synchro hubs or worn gear cogs
2) badly adjusted clutch cable
3) worn damaged clutch mechanism / linings

Cheers

[Robsey]

Oil is fresh as i can do well abt 6wks old hopefully not contaminated and the recommended type by local VX dealer, CLutch needs changing when get a chance on the Isuzu its apparently a pig to do and i need it everyday atm so.

HOw do i check for:
1) worn synchro hubs or worn gear cogs
2) badly adjusted clutch cable
3) worn damaged clutch mechanism / linings

Cheers

You are talking transmission / gear oil aren't you?
This has to be sucked out as there isn't usually a drain plug, just a level plug.
Fluid should be red....not black or brown.

In answer to your questions.
1) gearbox out and look at gears etc

2) check difference in height of clutch pedal when released, and pressed to floor - overall travel distance is approx 138mm (usually measure with a tape measure from the bottom of the steering wheel to top of clutch pedal rubber.

3) Noise when clutch pressed to floor or noise when clutch release, but not both. Car judders when releasing clutch, or engine speed increases more than road speed increases.

You could also check the linkage that I repaired...much more positive feel to gear changes.!! now that it's done.

[Gaz]

when i want to drain the fluid i just remove the diffplate and let it drain that way

[Envoy CDX]

Gears could just need re-aligning if theres play in the selector arm.
As for the clutch it shouldn't be too difficult. just a pig on your back with the car jacked up.

[Robsey]

Clutch depends on what Vauxhall decided to fit to your car!!

My 1994 1.8LSi is fited with a "POT" flywheel, which means the old fashioned method doesn't apply...
that is: -
remove inspection panel at bottom of bell housing.
Get a friend to press the clutch pedal whilst you fit clutch clamps, and rotate the clutch by 120 degrees at a time,
Undo the six bolts that hold the clutch assembly to the flywheel
Remove out-put shaft enough to clear the splines of the shaft from the clutch plates,
And drop out old clutch
Refit new clutch (pre-clamped together) and reverse the procedure.
Not forgetting to replace the clutch release bearing assembly.

Mine is separate gearbox from engine, and then the usual pig-about.

This really cheesed my garage off a few years ago when I asked them to do the clutch for me.!!
Mechanic was expecting a standard flat faced flywheel as he believes is normal for this engine / geabox set-up...apparently mine was a "Callibra" clutch assembly !?!

[Gaz]

Its just the later type. Garages always moan its not that bad to do the clutch on a cav just a fair chunk of time.

[Envoy CDX]

is it possible to replace some the gearbox bolts with longer ones and effectively slide the box along the bolts so its still fairly aligned ?

[Gaz]

for what purpose?

[Squig]

is it possible to replace some the gearbox bolts with longer ones and effectively slide the box along the bolts so its still fairly aligned ?

Yes. but the bolts would need to be 15cm protruding from the engine to allow enough room to clear the clutch assembly.

[Envoy CDX]

for what purpose?

Would save lifting the box up and down wouldn't it.

[Gaz]

its not really worth it as when you swap the clutch you might still have to spin the box slightly to get the input shaft in the correct position (rotation rather than angle) its an idea but in reality its not going to help.

Plus your limiting your space to get the clutch in

[steengland2006]

thats interesting ill take a look at the pin on the shaft and if it has broken ill follow that guide cheers fella