Cv boot installing
Cv boot installing
Hello guys just want abit of guidance on putting in my passenger side cv boot, like what to remove for a easy installation thanks all advice appreciated
- Cavalier342
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Re: Cv boot installing
The only ones I've done are the split and glue type. Won't last as long as the regular type but if you're not confident with pulling the drive shaft out yourself, then it's your best bet. In my case they worked ok 2 times out of 3 attempts.
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China Blue 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier L 18SV
Kings Blue 1992 Vauxhall Cavalier LSi Auto C18NZ
Smoke Grey 1994 Vauxhall Cavalier V6 C25XE
Am I a light sleeper or a heavy sleeper? Well that depends on how much I've had to drink...
China Blue 1989 Vauxhall Cavalier L 18SV
Kings Blue 1992 Vauxhall Cavalier LSi Auto C18NZ
Smoke Grey 1994 Vauxhall Cavalier V6 C25XE
Am I a light sleeper or a heavy sleeper? Well that depends on how much I've had to drink...
- planetc
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Re: Cv boot installing
You don't need to remove anything other than the wheel for access. Turn the steering on full lock and with the wheel hanging at full suspension extension, slide the old boot back so you can see the joint and clean it so the grease doesn't block your view. You will see the ends of the circlip in a recess in the joint next to the shaft, it is an external circlip and you need to push the ends apart to release the clip whilst pulling the shaft out of the joint. Once the shaft is released you can pull it clear and swap the boot, then refit. Sometimes you need to gain an extra few mm by levering the engine over on its mount to allow the shaft to clear the joint. Smaller engines 1.4 and early 16sv the shaft often sticks in the joint but can be assisted with a pair of old molegrips and a hammer. Larger engines don't usually have this problem and will slide freely. It really helps if you have a pair of circlip pliers with flat tips rather than the usual round tips.
"No the temperature gauge doesn't work........
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
Re: Cv boot installing
Mine is a 1.8 auto, I have done a prelude and was easy, do I have to remove the tie rod end or any ball joint when doing this I want to put a proper cv boot in not a glue type or strech one
- planetc
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Re: Cv boot installing
Ni, the shaft has enough clearance to pull out of the joint without popping ball joints. I did both joints on my 1.8 in about 30 minutes.
"No the temperature gauge doesn't work........
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
Re: Cv boot installing
That's good, so as it's passenger side I turn the wheel fully to passenger side, take wheel off and release external circlip for cv joint, then remove old boot and fit bes one, so once I release the cv joint external clip the shaft should be release from the cv joint ready for me to replace new boot, hope I got this right, does this mean I don't have to even undo Hub nut?
- planetc
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Re: Cv boot installing
No need to undo anything else apart from the wheel. Technically if you can get it high enough to get under it you don't even need to do that.
"No the temperature gauge doesn't work........
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
Re: Cv boot installing
So this is installing a proper cv boot not a sticky cv boot, also how would I know the joint had been fitted correctly once the new boot is in, thanks guys
- planetc
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Re: Cv boot installing
A proper genuine boot with a hole in the middle at each end! The shaft will lock into place with the circlip around it and you'll know it is in because you won't be able to pull it out again without spreading the circlip. There are a lot of people out there that will tell you the bottom ball joint has to be released, but I speak from experience and have done literally hundreds of them without, there is enough clearance.
"No the temperature gauge doesn't work........
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
- planetc
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Re: Cv boot installing
You can see the circlip in this photo
"No the temperature gauge doesn't work........
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
we've driven 150 miles today........
the heater went cold last Thursday........
they check the level when it's serviced don't they?"
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Re: Cv boot installing
just want to 'like' this thread.
Re: Cv boot installing
Thank you, that's excellent and much simpler to do than what I'm used to normally doing, appriciate the help