In the process of fitting my new tyres I noticed a split CV boot, must have only just happened, but they are the originals!
I bought a pair of boots a while ago, look and feel right, quite flexible and came with proper stainless clips with packs of grease.
Can't remember where I got them from but they are a 'universal' type where the end can be removed to suit. No manufacturers name.
Not sure now wether to use them (I would change both sides) and how good they might be!
Am I doing the right thing or should I get hold of a pair of named replacements? Don't want new old stock as they could be as old as mine!
Alan
Split CV boot
Re: Split CV boot
It is a matter of if they have been sealed in a bag in the dark.
If they have been exposed to the drying effects of the air, or the degerative effect of UV rays, then they may not be fantastic.
Although they have not been exposed to the twisting and flexing that have affected your currently fitted parts.
If they have been filed away in an air-tight bag away from the light, then the rubber boots should be as good as new.
As they have metal clips, I suspect that they will be good quality items.
More "run of the mill" parts usually arrive with heavy gauge cable / zip ties.
If they have been exposed to the drying effects of the air, or the degerative effect of UV rays, then they may not be fantastic.
Although they have not been exposed to the twisting and flexing that have affected your currently fitted parts.
If they have been filed away in an air-tight bag away from the light, then the rubber boots should be as good as new.
As they have metal clips, I suspect that they will be good quality items.
More "run of the mill" parts usually arrive with heavy gauge cable / zip ties.
Re: Split CV boot
I think I shall give them a go, they appear good mouldings and are very flexible far more so than original ones, feel almost silicony, if that is a word!
Alan
Alan
Re: Split CV boot
Yep - they sound like they are still very flexible.
Sounds like they will do the job nicely
Sounds like they will do the job nicely
Re: Split CV boot
Tackled the left one first, what a pig!
Everything came undone ok but couldn't release the shaft from the diff housing. Got a good purchase on the shaft but it wasn't having any of it.
Then rain stopped play.
Looking in the Haynes book it shows the shaft being tackled, levered/drifted from above.
Is this the way to go?
Shall have another session when rain stops.
Alan
Everything came undone ok but couldn't release the shaft from the diff housing. Got a good purchase on the shaft but it wasn't having any of it.
Then rain stopped play.
Looking in the Haynes book it shows the shaft being tackled, levered/drifted from above.
Is this the way to go?
Shall have another session when rain stops.
Alan
Re: Split CV boot
Ordinarily you use a wide flat drift / lever and insert it between the differential and the cv joint body.
I used to cheat, and simply grab the outer CV joint body and give the whole drive shaft a good yank to pop it out of the diff casing.
Although, you don't need to remove the drive shaft to replace the boots.
There is a "snap-ring' / circlip that needs to be dislodged to allow the joint to be split from the shaft, which then allows the boot to be fitted onto the shaft, before refitting the shaft into the joint... and finally fit the boot to the joint flange and fit the clip - simples.
I used to cheat, and simply grab the outer CV joint body and give the whole drive shaft a good yank to pop it out of the diff casing.
Although, you don't need to remove the drive shaft to replace the boots.
There is a "snap-ring' / circlip that needs to be dislodged to allow the joint to be split from the shaft, which then allows the boot to be fitted onto the shaft, before refitting the shaft into the joint... and finally fit the boot to the joint flange and fit the clip - simples.
Re: Split CV boot
Thanks Robsey, I did try and open the circlip to release the joint - so much grease! Found it and expanded it but didn't seem to want to 'tap off'
I'd rather remove the whole shaft and do it on the bench, I think the rain put paid to my efforts, try again tomorrow!
Alan
I'd rather remove the whole shaft and do it on the bench, I think the rain put paid to my efforts, try again tomorrow!
Alan
Re: Split CV boot
If that is the case, I would consider fitting a new drive shaft seal on the differential flange(s) on the gear box casing.
Peace of mind then for the next 20 years.
Peace of mind then for the next 20 years.
Re: Split CV boot
Well dry day found me having a grovel to remove n/s driveshaft.
Tied the strut out of the way and tried the 'snatch' method, this resulted in one black finger nail!
Looking from above looked more promising, found myself a 2ft length of 3/4in bar which I hacksawed and ground to go between a diff bolt head and shaft, result!
Came out so well, as the bar gave just the right leverage at the right point, well happy. Plugged the diff with an old film cannister which will keep dirt out.
Had to pack up for lunch but at least it's plain sailing from here.
O/S looks a lot more accessible.
Alan
Tied the strut out of the way and tried the 'snatch' method, this resulted in one black finger nail!
Looking from above looked more promising, found myself a 2ft length of 3/4in bar which I hacksawed and ground to go between a diff bolt head and shaft, result!
Came out so well, as the bar gave just the right leverage at the right point, well happy. Plugged the diff with an old film cannister which will keep dirt out.
Had to pack up for lunch but at least it's plain sailing from here.
O/S looks a lot more accessible.
Alan
Re: Split CV boot
Excellent - I would use a soft faced mallet to tap the shaft home into the differential when you are done.
A rubber, plastic faced or raw-hide mallet will allow you to persuade the joint into place without damaging the body of the joint.
A rubber, plastic faced or raw-hide mallet will allow you to persuade the joint into place without damaging the body of the joint.
Re: Split CV boot
Got there in the end what with persistent rain spoiling my progress! I only changed the outer boots as the inners appear in excellent condition I guess due to the lack of flexing over the years.
These jobs always seem to take longer than I first think, in this instance I decided to remove calipers and mountings for a good clean and lube up, was all moving ok but much nicer now!
Alan
These jobs always seem to take longer than I first think, in this instance I decided to remove calipers and mountings for a good clean and lube up, was all moving ok but much nicer now!
Alan
Re: Split CV boot
I know that feeling - It always seems to take a lot longer than expected.Mk3alan wrote:Got there in the end...
These jobs always seem to take longer than I first think...
Alan
Probably means you have done a good thorough job.
One more job that you won't need to worry about for a fair few years - hopefully.
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cavalier1990
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- Location: Paisley, Scotland
Re: Split CV boot
Usually use a ball join splitter or fat end chisel for popping driveshaft, carefully though!
Always use original boots, those other ones are crap!
Always use original boots, those other ones are crap!