F20 gearbox

[bigsilver]

Need some advice. I'm doing the clutch on my c20 xe , f20 box . I've noticed I've got the thinner pressure plate you can't get the clamps in to clamp it .I take it that's the pot flywheel as I've drew back the shaft but the bearing is right against the plate , can I get away with pulling gearbox back just enough to get the clutch out and in .not too sure if there's enough space or is it gearbox right out also if so do I have to drop subframe , thanks

[Robsey]

From memory - if you have the inspection hatch, you should have just enough space to move the gearbox out towards the wheel arch.
The important bit is not to dangle the weight of the gearbox on the output shaft.

I think you will still find that you will at least need to undo the bottom wishbone joints to allow the drive shafts to move enough with the gearbox / diffetential.

And possibly split the gear linkage to save bending or catching anything.

For what it is worth, you are not far from removing the box completely..

When I refitted my box to the engine, I used a technique of turning the road wheel slowly as I pushed the gearbox home onto its location dowels.

This allowed the output shaft to line up with and slip into the splines of the clutch. plate.
Using this technique I was able to complete the job single handedly.
I used a hoist to take the weight of the box or engine to make it easier.
Without a hoist, I would seek assistance from a friend.

[bigsilver]

Thanks robesey, I've already split the gear link . took drive shafts out just took the passenger strut off . so u reckon I can get enough clearance , I bought a clutch 3yrs ago from autovaux but just found out it was wrong one , was delighted that they changed it for me .also got 2 new drive shaft seals

[bigsilver]

Aye robesey av got a hoist .don't want to damage the alloy sump by putting anything under should anything slip

[Robsey]

I would think so yes...
I know the gear casing is close to the inner wing, but you should get a few inches of movement... which should be just enough.

[bigsilver]

Magic ta robesey Al let ye know when a get round to it hopefully this week sometime

[Robsey]

Look forward to hearing you say that it is all done.
And hopefully you will confirm that I didn't speak rubbish.

Good luck and keep safe. That box is quite heavy and awkward.
Goes without saying, but take your time and check everything twice.
It is a bugger to have to do it twice if you forget something or fit it wrong.

(Apologies if teaching my granny to suck eggs).

[bigsilver]

No problem m8 , I will let you know and thanks for your advice much appreciated

[bigsilver]

Hello robesey got the clutch in with a bit of hassle. ended up loosening of the sub frame a bit . Ive not linked up anything as yet only the box and it's mounts. something doing my nut in .see when I put my hand up the inspection gap I can pull the bearing of the fork with the clutch cable lever as far forward towards front of car but but I push the lever back a bit it obviously compress against pressure plate . .my question is that I had to pull the old one off . And see when I put on and adjust the clutch cable to take up bit of play will this be okay

[Robsey]

You will need to adjust the clutch cable anyway to allow for the difference in friction plate thicknesses.

Clutch pedal from fully pressed to fully released should be 137mm (approx 5 1/2").
Measurement is from the steering wheel rim.
Pedal pressed should give a measurement 137mm more than when released.

If you can see the release fork okay, then yes it will be okay to feed the bearing onto the fork using the method you describe.

Disconnect clutch cable first.
Slip the bearing onto the fork assembly.
Ensure all clutch mounting bolts are tightened properly.
Refit the box.
Tighten all the bell-housing bolts enough to locate on the engine properly.
Refit cable.
Adjust the cable to suit.

Check you are happy with the pedal feel before tightening the bell housing bolts fully.

Reassemble the rest of the car...

The important bit is ensuring the bearing is fitted the correct way round, and any location lugs also point in the correct direction.

Hope that helps.

[bigsilver]

Will I make sure the heel of the bearing is right against the fork then adjust up because when I turn it round the fork catches the bits of plastic on the casing of the bearing

[bigsilver]

Aaahh robsey. My mate pulled the bearing off wasn't sure what way it went bk on but I just looked at the old bearing and noticed 2 wee indents where the fork meets .I will need to unbolt the box and slide it back just enough to be able to pop the bearing round then into its position. just glad I didn't link anything else up .maybe get round to it at weekend just not enough time these days ,

[Robsey]

At least you didn't find any major issues 'after' putting it all back together fully.

Nearly there now.

[bigsilver]

Was at it earlier trying to get the drive shaft seal out they are solid I've chapped the lip up on half it any ideas how to withdraw it . tried mole grips and chapping mole grips can't get it to budge.thanks

[Robsey]

Normally you hook or lever the seals out from behind.

As you are putting new seals in, thankfully it doesn't matter if the old seals get chewed up on removal.

[bigsilver]

I've certainly chewed one up. I will give it another try after work cheers robsey

[bigsilver]

That's it all done had it out a run . driving as it should also replaced the 2 wishbones balljoints were knackered and put a new set of leads on it , when I stick the foot down sometimea engine management light comes on thought leads might have remedy it but unfortunately not .still drives ok , when u turn ignition off then on fault clears . tried injector cleaner . also renewed dizzy cap n rotor

[Robsey]

Have you tried the paper clip test.?

It sounds like it is a full throttle issue.

Thinking out loud possibly a throttle position sensor starting to fail.

But don't take my word for it - that is purely a guess.
Do the paperclip test before throwing any more money at the car.
The fault should still be stored if the engine light, lit up for more than just a few seconds.

[bigsilver]

What pins do I use

[Robsey]

Look here.

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=630

It tells you all you need to know.

[cavalier1990]

That's it all done had it out a run . driving as it should also replaced the 2 wishbones balljoints were knackered and put a new set of leads on it , when I stick the foot down sometimea engine management light comes on thought leads might have remedy it but unfortunately not .still drives ok , when u turn ignition off then on fault clears . tried injector cleaner . also renewed dizzy cap n rotor

Might be a legacy code floating about, you could try disconnecting battery for a while and see if that clears it. Make sure you've got any radio codes jotted down and if stock alarm is fitted it might go off. There is a procedure for disconnecting battery with alarm so it doen't go off, just cant remember it at this particular time.

[Robsey]

I would try the paper clip test.
If it has illuminated the engine light for more than 5 seconds, then it will be stored in the ecu.

There are loads of threads on how to get the fault codes to be flashed out on the dash.
Remember we ignore 1 - 2 as it is flashed up.
This is not a fault code, just a check cycle start code.