Possible head gasket failure?

[BradsCav]

I've had a bit of trouble with my cavalier recently, (1.8i GLS AUTO), whenever the engine has got up to normal running temperature it would often cut out (anything below 1000rpm and it could happen) , and I would also have difficultly in starting the car when it is warm, I'm waiting anything from 1 minute to half an hour, but it will always start from cold first time. I was told by a mechanic who looked at the car that the head gasket was on its way out. Other symptoms include, cam shaft cover leaks even after changing it, it seems the pressure could be building up, also the car overheats extremely fast, and the radiator leaks even though it has only been changed a few years ago, I have to put a litre of water in before each trip, but this has only started a week ago.

So it looks like this is all symptoms of a failing head gasket, but my question is 'why'. We have owned the car since 2002, and has always been looked after, has done mostly long trips and not many short trips like town driving etc, the car has done 176,000 miles but I expected it to get further than that before having problems as I have heard these old 8V engines are very reliable and can last a long time. Can anyone shed any light on this subject?

[Cavalier342]

Gaskets can fail at any time, there's no way of telling when or why, they just go when they're past their days. Does your coolant have yellowish sludge in it? Or the engine oil? I've never replaced a head gasket on these engines but it's not that difficult to do, it's just nuts and bolts.

The cam cover gaskets are prone to seeping oil, either through over-tightening the cam cover bolts or not cleaning the surfaces thoroughly when replacing the gasket. If you think there is pressure that's causing it, it's worth checking all the breather hoses to see if they are blocked full of crap, and the EGR valve hose, the MAP sensor hoses too, and around the throttle body.

Radiators are easy enough to replace, they can split where the plastic surround meets the metal core, especially if it runs hotter than normal.

The 8v engines are indeed solid blocks, and with regular maintenance should easily pass 200.000 miles depending on how they are used, i.e. no ragging around from cold and redlining all the time.

[BradsCav]

The cam cover gasket has always been fitted with care whenever it needs doing, I know not to overtighten it it would damage the cork, is always cleaned around the time of changing it, but will check the breather hoses as is possible they could be the originals. As far as I am aware the throttle body has been cleaned but will have it checked. I have no yellow sludge in the engine oil which I sort of expected to find, as with the coolant there is nothing there as it doesn't stay in there long enough as it keeps leaking, but before that I would often keep an eye on the coolant level and have never seen signs of contamination.
We replaced the radiator before so it shouldn't be a difficult task, but wanted to fix the issues first otherwise I risk damaging another radiator.
Throughout the time of owning the car it has always been driven carefully, especially from when its cold, and have never had the revs in the redline area, perhaps I am just unfortunate that it has decided to go wrong now.

[Cavalier342]

It might just be overheating because the radiator is leaking which would let air into the system and reduce the cooling efficiency. How do your spark plugs look? If one is different from the other 3 by a clear visual inspection, it could be that cylinder which the head gasket has failed around, if the gasket has indeed failed.

Start by checking where the coolant leak is coming from, that all the engine breather hoses and pipe connections are unblocked, it's strange that you have no sludge in the oil or coolant, as that is a sure sign of a failed head gasket. If you have the time for it, it would be worth removing the cylinder head to check the condition of the gasket, make sure you have a new one to put on when you do. If you replace the radiator, make sure there are no air locks in the coolant system, it's a simple procedure to do.

[BradsCav]

I will investigate the points above and perhaps it could shed some light on what is going on.
The car has always got hot fairly quick in recent years, but recently has been really bad, but I do have a manual switch fitted that I can use to stop it getting dangerously hot. And is only recently it started losing lots of water, before it would need topping up every few months.
If a pipe is blocked would that be what caused the radiator problems, as the radiator on there now has only been on there for a few years, probably about 25,000 miles has been done with this radiator fitted.
And if the head gasket is not failing then what could be causing the car to stall, and refusal to start when warm?

[Cavalier342]

A blocked breather hose won't affect engine coolant temperature, it will simply restrict the flow of gases throughout the EGR and crankcase, which raises internal pressure causing the weakest point (cork gasket) to leak. Also when was the thermostat last changed?

If it's not the head gasket, I would be checking that you don't have any vacuum leaks by leaving the engine ticking over, and using a can of carb cleaner, spray in short bursts around the vacuum pipes and throttle body, inlet manifold gasket area to see if the engine revs drop and it "splutters" for a moment. If it does, it means air is getting in where it shouldn't be. Maybe worth removing the ICV unit (just below the throttle body cover), it's held on with 2 very small bolts, be careful not to drop them as guaranteed you won't find them if they get lost somewhere, to see if it's full of sticky crud on the end where the spring is located. If it looks dirty, give it a good spray with carb cleaner, and replace carefully.

[Robsey]

Assuming you have the C18NZ single point injection engine, then in my experience the head gaskets can fail after some moderately lively driving.

I had a C18NZ, and ended up doing the head gasket renewal three times.
(Over a 17 year period and 227,000 miles).
The first two were due to lively driving style, and the third was part of a cylinder head renovation.

I have since fitted a C20NE and this seems to handle firmer, more exuberant driving much better.

The symptoms you suggest do indeed hint at head gasket failure.
Thankfully being an 8 valve engine, it is quite an easy job to do.
It is a very easy engine to work on.

[BradsCav]

The thermostat was replaced at 161,000 miles.
I will have the above points checked and will see where I go from there.
Thanks to all that has offered me help and advice, is much appreciated.

[cavalier1990]

Other possible reason for quick overheating is failing water pump, i.e. impellers breaking off bit by bit leading to less and less circulation of water till you end up with nothing and overheating. You should see water being scooshed into bottle from thin pipe when it's up to temp. Note the pump itself can be spinning fine but the impellers might be breaking off. Not seen it on a cav but had it on other cars.