Rear drum brakes stuck again help please?

[cavaliersri130]

Right the cavs rear brake piston that I replaced has once again got stuck into the out position and won't retract back in which is causing the brake to get stuck and burn up on the drum.
I've replaced the piston, pipe, shoes and the handbrake cable.
But when I drove her the rear drum got red hot and smoked.
I've taken it apart and it is it's stuck in the out position.
Could this be something to do with the adjustment or a problem deeper down in the brake system.
I really need to get this sorted as I can't drive her without the burning smell.

Cheers guys and girls.

[planetc]

More likely adjustment, the cylinder pistons have been replaced already and anything else would affect both on the circuit.

[cavaliersri130]

Ok cheers m8 I'll have to have a go at a readjustments tomorrow.
I'm hoping it's that simple I really want it sorted I miss driving her, spent ages getting her through her mot to drive her now I can't even do that again.

[cavaliersri130]

Right managed to stop the brakes from sticking only problem is the hand brake is still not exact I think the adjusters aren't working properly, when I get some more time I'm going to try and see if I can't get those adjuster working.
Also when out doing my brake test a car decided to brake hard in front of me for some funny reason so I broke hard and heard a clonk had a look when I limped her home and the wishbone bolts had come loose so had to tighten them up, so another thing on my list to do double check all the torque with the wrench and get some nut sealant on them.

[paul_34]

Did you change the flexi pipes as well, sometimes they can break down internally and cause problems. Also I had the original drums on mine, think they had done something like 170k, (probably beyond the wear limit) and I found that when the shoes were worn right down the cylinder pistons were right at the end of there travel. The spring and adjuster kits used to be cheap as chips so I used to replace the whole lot in one go. I hate working on drum brakes

[cavaliersri130]

Did you change the flexi pipes as well, sometimes they can break down internally and cause problems. Also I had the original drums on mine, think they had done something like 170k, (probably beyond the wear limit) and I found that when the shoes were worn right down the cylinder pistons were right at the end of there travel. The spring and adjuster kits used to be cheap as chips so I used to replace the whole lot in one go. I hate working on drum brakes

Na the flexis seem ok on her I'm going to change them in the future for braided hoses.
Yeah I'm thinking of looking into getting new drums as well as mine are real pitted.

[planetc]

The most common issue with these is that the y shape jaws of the self adjuster spread, allowing the little pressed plate with the spring slip of the ratchet, which then jams up and can lead to the brake sticking. Second is the handbrake cable sticking in the part where it turns they corner at the front of the wheel arch.
The other common scenario is poor initial adjustment. Let the handbrake cables right off so that the levers on the shoes are both on the stops, then adjust the shoes until they bind, and back them off a couple of clicks. I always found it easier to do this through one of the bolt holes as it saves you struggling with any lip on the drums, but it is a practiced art. You should find that if the shoes are adjusted correctly the cable doesn't need to be taken back up. Don't try to make the handbrake too tight, they don't like it. Aim for 5-7 clicks, anything less and you can have issues with the brakes binding when they warm up.

[cavaliersri130]

The most common issue with these is that the y shape jaws of the self adjuster spread, allowing the little pressed plate with the spring slip of the ratchet, which then jams up and can lead to the brake sticking. Second is the handbrake cable sticking in the part where it turns they corner at the front of the wheel arch.
The other common scenario is poor initial adjustment. Let the handbrake cables right off so that the levers on the shoes are both on the stops, then adjust the shoes until they bind, and back them off a couple of clicks. I always found it easier to do this through one of the bolt holes as it saves you struggling with any lip on the drums, but it is a practiced art. You should find that if the shoes are adjusted correctly the cable doesn't need to be taken back up. Don't try to make the handbrake too tight, they don't like it. Aim for 5-7 clicks, anything less and you can have issues with the brakes binding when they warm up.

Cheers m8 for the info I'm going to have another crack at it on my week off work plus get rid of a few teething problems the old girl has I kinda don't feel safe driving her at the mo especially not putting my familys life in danger and others until I've got these few bits sorted.
Funny how she performed well for the mot then I drive her and bits start going wrong blooming cars.

[Envoy CDX]

Personally, I hate setting up drum brakes, but Paul has given really sound advise there.
Also, if you haven't replaced the fitting kit before now, seriously consider it. I had no end of issues trying to reuse old parts.
Are the drums excessively worn too?

[cavaliersri130]

Personally, I hate setting up drum brakes, but Paul has given really sound advise there.
Also, if you haven't replaced the fitting kit before now, seriously consider it. I had no end of issues trying to reuse old parts.
Are the drums excessively worn too?

The only thing I've not replaced is the drums and the adjusters. So that's what's getting done next.

[cavalier1990]

Replaced my drums and shoes as well as handbrake cable and all new adjusters, all OE parts and what a difference, handbrake is amazing. I did have trouble thought with adjusters, the little spring clip that is supposed to pull the adjuster wheel kept dislocating, meaning handbrake got looser and looser as it was not self-adjusting while bedding in, and had to take drum off and put it back on a couple of times but now seems ok.

bit of a pig of a job but well worth it.

[jimzzr]

The most common issue with these is that the y shape jaws of the self adjuster spread, allowing the little pressed plate with the spring slip of the ratchet, which then jams up and can lead to the brake sticking. Second is the handbrake cable sticking in the part where it turns they corner at the front of the wheel arch.
The other common scenario is poor initial adjustment. Let the handbrake cables right off so that the levers on the shoes are both on the stops, then adjust the shoes until they bind, and back them off a couple of clicks. I always found it easier to do this through one of the bolt holes as it saves you struggling with any lip on the drums, but it is a practiced art. You should find that if the shoes are adjusted correctly the cable doesn't need to be taken back up. Don't try to make the handbrake too tight, they don't like it. Aim for 5-7 clicks, anything less and you can have issues with the brakes binding when they warm up.

Bad form hijacking someone elses thread, but my self adjusters don't work and the brake drums are lipped. It would be really helpfull if you could tell me if I'm mean't to try to turn the toothed adjuster wheel up or down through the wheel bolt hole.

I'm thinking down on NS and Offside. and that the wheel is towards the front to the car near side and rear on the offside? Am I close?

Cheers
Jim

[Envoy CDX]

I can't remember off the top of my head, I'm sure you flick it down.

[planetc]

The little wheel is at around 2 o'clock on the os, and 10 on the ns. Turning it downward will tighten the adjustment.

[Robsey]

Agreed - flicking down will tighten the adjusters.

[thegriffin]

Assuming you backed the adjuster off when you
fitted it ,are you sure you have fitted it the right way
round at the threaded end ?
It's best to do one side at a time so you can refer to the
other if necessary.Or photograph it before taking it
apart.

[jimzzr]

Cheers guys. A bit tricky but got there in the end.

Thanks

Jim