what rear hubs can be used?
i've heard older saab hubs
i've got v6 cav front legs here
just need rears now
cavalier to 5 stud?
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McFall1984
- Registered user
- Posts: 547
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 1:13 am
- Location: Northern Ireland
Re: cavalier to 5 stud?
see reply on MIG.
-
McFall1984
- Registered user
- Posts: 547
- Joined: Tue Sep 07, 2010 1:13 am
- Location: Northern Ireland
Re: cavalier to 5 stud?
cheers, replied there
Re: cavalier to 5 stud?
As AstraDan says, back in 04' I redrilled some spare Vectra back plates where the four holes are that the hubs go through, basically drilled another four holes, so the backplates can go on the opposite sides, so the handbrake cables now point in the correct direction, as Vectra cables pop out at a different place.
The Vectra back plates (with the handbrake shoes on) look similar, but the lugged bits where the caliper bolts on are 13mm iirc further away from the centre, so the caliper sticks out further, this suits the 286mm discs that they use, as opposed to the 260mm ones you find on 2.0l cavs and gives you far more effective torque reaction without arsing about with expensive aftermarket calipers.
I then did what I am used to doing at work (Weapons Engineer) I did lots of measurements of old and new, research and calculations, wrote an article with all the sums in, basically to prove that if you uprated the front brakes to vectra GSi 308mm ones like I wanted to use on mine, to make the brakes balance properly and not under brake the rear axle, (front doing an endo kinda scenario) you needed to upgrade at the back too. the effective brake torque ratio worked out pretty well spot on as the original ratio when I realised the 286mm vectra rears were there and available as standard on loads of cars. iirc it was something like 20-22% more than std. this is before you select some better pads both front and rear, which further increase your brake torque, then they were utterly epic. then I drove it for about 10 years, had a set of discs and a few sets of pads, kinda forgot I'd gone through it all until I did an monumental emergency stop now and again, which did used to really hurt across the chest (and once the oil surge stalled the engine) but saved me from a fair few sticky spots, not to mention being able to pass faster stuff under braking at a few Combe track days.
what I dont know though is if you have a drum braked axle, (yours a diesel)? whether disc braked hubs and back plates fit or not. Never tried that, and don't want the hassle of trying it on my 1.6 auto 4 stud commute mobile, as that would be silly!, but on something with some decent power, superb brakes are your best pal.
The best thing anyone can do for better stopping as it were, before "better brakes" are needed, is make sure the tyres are totally superb and the best quality/grip you can afford or you are kidding yourself.
This is the only contact with the the road of course and you need epic grip to keep the brake from locking, keeping the friction where it should be! The geometry must be spot on, make sure the pads all round are matched compound and far better than the usual motor factors crap. Police spec vectra ones are good, FF grade of GG even or similar, something with a co-efficient of over 0.5 seems the way to go. Pads have different grips at different temperatures too. forget std crap, and green stuff, minimum red stuff or ds2500, or yellow ebc stuff etc. then! there's the quality of the discs. expensive ones aren't always the best heat treatment, the darker the colour of them in the packet means they have deeper/better heat treatments and not turned on a lathe, ought to be Blanchard ground (little criss crosses on the surfaces) better for pad smear and structure.
Then you must bond the pad material to the molecular grain of the disc by bedding in properly, usually a series of heavy stops down to near stationary, without stopping, then back up to speed again and repeat until the pad is smeared into the disc and the edge of the new pad has burnt paint coming off of it! then a decent cool down period Now you might be braking properly! and have pains across your chest!
The Vectra back plates (with the handbrake shoes on) look similar, but the lugged bits where the caliper bolts on are 13mm iirc further away from the centre, so the caliper sticks out further, this suits the 286mm discs that they use, as opposed to the 260mm ones you find on 2.0l cavs and gives you far more effective torque reaction without arsing about with expensive aftermarket calipers.
I then did what I am used to doing at work (Weapons Engineer) I did lots of measurements of old and new, research and calculations, wrote an article with all the sums in, basically to prove that if you uprated the front brakes to vectra GSi 308mm ones like I wanted to use on mine, to make the brakes balance properly and not under brake the rear axle, (front doing an endo kinda scenario) you needed to upgrade at the back too. the effective brake torque ratio worked out pretty well spot on as the original ratio when I realised the 286mm vectra rears were there and available as standard on loads of cars. iirc it was something like 20-22% more than std. this is before you select some better pads both front and rear, which further increase your brake torque, then they were utterly epic. then I drove it for about 10 years, had a set of discs and a few sets of pads, kinda forgot I'd gone through it all until I did an monumental emergency stop now and again, which did used to really hurt across the chest (and once the oil surge stalled the engine) but saved me from a fair few sticky spots, not to mention being able to pass faster stuff under braking at a few Combe track days.
what I dont know though is if you have a drum braked axle, (yours a diesel)? whether disc braked hubs and back plates fit or not. Never tried that, and don't want the hassle of trying it on my 1.6 auto 4 stud commute mobile, as that would be silly!, but on something with some decent power, superb brakes are your best pal.
The best thing anyone can do for better stopping as it were, before "better brakes" are needed, is make sure the tyres are totally superb and the best quality/grip you can afford or you are kidding yourself.
This is the only contact with the the road of course and you need epic grip to keep the brake from locking, keeping the friction where it should be! The geometry must be spot on, make sure the pads all round are matched compound and far better than the usual motor factors crap. Police spec vectra ones are good, FF grade of GG even or similar, something with a co-efficient of over 0.5 seems the way to go. Pads have different grips at different temperatures too. forget std crap, and green stuff, minimum red stuff or ds2500, or yellow ebc stuff etc. then! there's the quality of the discs. expensive ones aren't always the best heat treatment, the darker the colour of them in the packet means they have deeper/better heat treatments and not turned on a lathe, ought to be Blanchard ground (little criss crosses on the surfaces) better for pad smear and structure.
Then you must bond the pad material to the molecular grain of the disc by bedding in properly, usually a series of heavy stops down to near stationary, without stopping, then back up to speed again and repeat until the pad is smeared into the disc and the edge of the new pad has burnt paint coming off of it! then a decent cool down period Now you might be braking properly! and have pains across your chest!