Cavalier ABS systems

[Envoy CDX]

I have various bits of loom from a Cav SRI (well, all of it) which has the ABS wiring as part of it
My question is, how hard would it be to retrofit the rest of it to car that never had ABS and is it worth the hassle?

If I decide not to go down this root, I am obviously going to have to delete certain aspects of the loom to prevent issues later down the line I'd imagine - but does anyone know what exactly?

Thanks,

G.

[Robsey]

In simple terms...

You will have loads more mechanical work to do rather than just the wiring..

Brake Fluid and control unit-
Are you planning on fresh brake lines anyway?
If so, then probably not a huge amount of extra plumbing work... do note though that the braking fluid circuits on Non ABS cars are plumbed "diagonally opposed", whereas ABS brakes are plumbed with either right on one circuit and left on the other... or front on one circuit and rear on the other. Not sure exactly without reading up on it again - but I do recall reading about this about 10 years ago.

This can be juggled around by rerouting the pipework positions at the modulator valve block
Also - not sure what non ABS cars use for fluid, but the fluid on my ABS Cavalier is DOT 5.1 "Superdisk"

Electrically speaking -
You will also need sensors and trigger rings plus the wiring for each wheel hub.
The modulator has it's own relay block attached to the modulator, so most of the wiring is self contained.
There is the link to the dash loom for the ABS light and also I presume the main body loom for the power feeds and grounds.

Does this mean you need me to look at producing wiring diagrams and pin outs for you?
And is the ABS unit from a 1989, 1990, 1991 or 1992 onward vehicle ?
Vauxhall do like to chop and change wiring patterns and layouts - grrr!!

Regarding ABS usage - It has worked well for me on normal roads in slightly icy or damp conditions, but I would suggest that decent tyres make more of a difference.

Also ABS is less useful on surfaces that can be pushed out of the way such as shingle, sand and soft snow.
In these situations it is better for the wheels to lock up as the soft material (snow / sand etc) is pushed in front of the wheel and builds up a "blockage" in front of the tyre aiding stopping.

Just a further thought - If you are not used to ABS when it kicks in, it can result in you crapping yourself due to the harsh sound and sensation produced... The first time it kicked in for me, I thought I had trashed the gearbox. That and the brake pedal judder was quite un-nerving.

Seeing as you have done drum to disc conversions and other mechanically involved tasks before, I can see fitting ABS as quite a "doable" job for you.

[James McGrath]

To be honest I don't think it's worth it. I don't have ABS brakes on my LS and I prefer them over the ones on my other 3.

They feel a bit more responsive I think.

[Robsey]

Indeed -

if you haven't buried your car bonnet into someone elses boot yet, then it isn't likely to happen in future.

(Hopefully not tempting fate - lol )

[McFall1984]

if you can drive, no need for ABS
or if you want ABS buy a shell an build your car into it

[Envoy CDX]

In simple terms...

You will have loads more mechanical work to do rather than just the wiring..

Brake Fluid and control unit-
Are you planning on fresh brake lines anyway?
If so, then probably not a huge amount of extra plumbing work... do note though that the braking fluid circuits on Non ABS cars are plumbed "diagonally opposed", whereas ABS brakes are plumbed with either right on one circuit and left on the other... or front on one circuit and rear on the other. Not sure exactly without reading up on it again - but I do recall reading about this about 10 years ago.

This can be juggled around by rerouting the pipework positions at the modulator valve block
Also - not sure what non ABS cars use for fluid, but the fluid on my ABS Cavalier is DOT 5.1 "Superdisk"

Electrically speaking -
You will also need sensors and trigger rings plus the wiring for each wheel hub.
The modulator has it's own relay block attached to the modulator, so most of the wiring is self contained.
There is the link to the dash loom for the ABS light and also I presume the main body loom for the power feeds and grounds.

Does this mean you need me to look at producing wiring diagrams and pin outs for you?
And is the ABS unit from a 1989, 1990, 1991 or 1992 onward vehicle ?
Vauxhall do like to chop and change wiring patterns and layouts - grrr!!

Regarding ABS usage - It has worked well for me on normal roads in slightly icy or damp conditions, but I would suggest that decent tyres make more of a difference.

Also ABS is less useful on surfaces that can be pushed out of the way such as shingle, sand and soft snow.
In these situations it is better for the wheels to lock up as the soft material (snow / sand etc) is pushed in front of the wheel and builds up a "blockage" in front of the tyre aiding stopping.

Just a further thought - If you are not used to ABS when it kicks in, it can result in you crapping yourself due to the harsh sound and sensation produced... The first time it kicked in for me, I thought I had trashed the gearbox. That and the brake pedal judder was quite un-nerving.

Seeing as you have done drum to disc conversions and other mechanically involved tasks before, I can see fitting ABS as quite a "doable" job for you.

New lines, valves, calipers, refurbed master cylinder and possibly servo.
It's a very do-able job, and probably easier than deleting it from the loom, however - food for thought.
If you have the diagrams to hand - all good.

if you can drive, no need for ABS
or if you want ABS buy a shell an build your car into it

Not a case of wanting it, just since the Cav is bare shelled, just working out what I will be adding or taking away.

To be honest I don't think it's worth it. I don't have ABS brakes on my LS and I prefer them over the ones on my other 3.

They feel a bit more responsive I think.

Hmmm. Interesting.