WIRING IT ALL IN.
MAIN HARNESS – P4
Wiring Precautions. – Yes, I am keeping you safe from harm and tears caused by things going wrong.
1 – Read these pages several times to ensure that you are happy that you understand the work to be carried out. I would even suggest printing this all out to be totally sure.
2 – Make sure you have the codes for the radio or other audio equipment.
3 – Disconnect the battery before working on any wiring.
4 – Ensure that all joints are secure – I mean, in the 80’s and 90’s, scotch-locks were seen as a quick fix, but as many 901 owners will attest, they are not the most secure and reliable way to splice additional wires into a circuit.
It is therefore recommended that all joints should be soldered and then insulated with heat shrink sleeving.
I also find the idea of making a joint to a random wire of the correct colour that happens to be in the big bunch that runs above the glove box is a bit hit and miss.
5 – Check all wiring thoroughly before reconnecting the battery and fitting the in-line blade fuses.
From Left to Right
BROWN – STARTER INHIBIT
Requires additional Optional Module 906 or 910
Used only in conjunction with Optional Remote control Unit 903
After looking at my loom, it appears that the Brown wire mutates.
There is a big chunk of heat shrink sleeving that covers the whole loom for a few inches.
When the Brown emerges from the other side of this sleeving, it has turned into a smaller gauge Brown and Brown with White stripe pair of wires. These terminate at a two pin socket, which miraculously matches to the Brown and Brown with White stripe pair of wires in the inhibitor module connectors.
ORANGE – IGNITION LIVE
Connect to an ignition live feed in the main loom above the glove box.
(Ignition live wires in the car loom are Black)
Personally, I would find an ignition live spare fuse point in the fuse box, as tapping into “any old black wire” could over load a circuit if you happen to make the wrong selection.
GREY with BLACK tracer stripe – ACCESSORY GUARD.
Attaches via a ring terminal to rear of the radio.
If not connected to the radio, connect to a good ground for the alarm to work correctly.
I am sure that on the cavalier, Pin 1 of the radio’s ISO connector is actually for this function.
I also think that the Cavalier wire colour for this function is violet with brown tracer.
In this instance, I would cut off the ring and solder on a suitable female ISO pin and then insert this into the ISO connector of the body loom clipped into the rear of the radio cage.
BLACK – BONNET PIN SWITCH
Run a wire via the grommet into the engine bay, to the pin switch on the slam panel. Cable tie the wire in place.
BLACK – BOOT / LOAD AREA PIN SWITCH
Feed a wire along the passenger side sill, under the plastic trim towards the rear load area.
Dependent upon model – Connect to the boot lamp switch Black wire or brown with white tracer.
BLUE – LEFT INDICATOR WIRE
Connect to a Black wire with White tracer stripe in the main loom above the glove box.
BLUE – RIGHT INDICATOR WIRE
Connect to a Black wire with Green tracer stripe in the main loom above the glove box.
GREY – DOOR PIN SWITCH
Connect to a grey wire in the main loom above the glove box.
GREEN – GROUND WIRE
Cut off ring terminal and use red scotch lock to splice into the brown wire going to the glove box light.
I would find a grounding stud for this, rather than tapping into the glove box lighting circuit.
There will be plenty of suitable such studs behind the dash panel or glove box for this.
RED – PERMANENT LIVE
Connect to a permanent live feed in the main loom above the glove box.
(Permanent live wires in the car loom are normally Red)
Similar to the comments for the orange wire, I would find a permanent live spare fuse point in the fuse box, as tapping into “any old red wire” could over load a circuit if you happen to make the wrong selection.